We caught the train just after 10 o'clock and it took a little under three quarters of an hour to reach Hamilton Square, the nearest stop on the south side to a ferry terminal. Despite being guided by a long crocodile of young school children who had also arrived by train, heading for the ferry, we still managed a little detour before arrival at the terminal.
The building is quite ornate, especially inside and, with about half an hour to wait for the next departure, we had time for a coffee and a chance to admire the interior.
Outside the terminal is a replica of Resurgam one of the first successful submarines. It was designed by Rev George Garrett, a curate in Birkenhead who was also a trained chemist. The trials took place in the nearby docks and was then sent to Portsmouth for further demonstrations. Alas, she was lost in a storm at sea of the coast near to Rhyll.
As the ferry approached we could see that it is presently decorated in bright 'razzle dazzle' colours. An exhibition on board explained the project which commissioned the pop artist Sir Peter Blake to design to scheme. From 1917, many warships have been painted in confusing patterns and were known as 'dazzle' ships.
Across the river we had a good view of many of the important iconic landmark buildings along the Liverpool waterfront.
Looking back to Birkenhead we could see the Cammell Laird shipyard, now concentrating on naval ships.
Just after we landed a large crude oil tanker (Navion Britannia 124,238 dtw) passed by on its way out towards sea heading for Macduff on the north Scottish coast. At the same time a river barge came along so that we had the chance of this shot with three vessels at the same time.
We did not have much of a plan before we landed but seeing the Museum of Liverpool (opened in 2011) next door to the Ferry Terminal we headed there - the rain had by now arrived.
One of the attractions of Liverpool is that most of its museums and art galleries have free admission. That means that it is possible to drop in even if not sure of what is there or how long one might stay. Immediately inside there is a wonderful staircase that goes right up thew three floors of the building.
The first gallery we looked at charted much of the history of how Liverpool grew to be such an important and wealthy port. One display had a short dramatisation of the debates leading up to the removal of the monopoly that had for long been enjoyed by the East India Company. Many of the quotations had an uncanny resonance with those currently being advanced in favour of Brexit.
Much of the growth then came from trade with China - not to mention the dubious merits of merchants based here who benefited from the slave trade. The displays set out how Britain and its wealthy traders considered themselves to be superior to every other nation. Lord Palmerston is quoted as saying, "These half-civilised Governments such as those of China . . . require a dressing down every eight or ten years to keep them in order. Their minds are too shallow to receive an impression that will last longer." One has to wonder how the negotiations for the anticipated new trade deals with China post-Brexit will be influenced by this past behaviour.
We also learned about a much more recent episode that we had not heard about before: the expulsion of over a thousand Chinese seamen from Liverpool who were tricked into boarding ships that never let them return, leaving their families behind with no information about where husbands and fathers had gone. This was no long passed event but one that happened in 1946.
We watched a short film called The Power and the Glory? which not only charted in images the rise of Liverpool,but also its decline until the nadir of the Toxteth Riots in 1981. From then on, Liverpool and especially its waterfront has seen some amazing renewal.
Another gallery recalled the history of the Liverpool Overhead Railway which ran for seven miles, 16 feet above ground, the length of the docks and waterfronts. It opened in 1893 and was very popular, especially as a means of getting to and from the largest source of employment in the city. It enabled people to travel quickly at a time when the streets were very congested.
Alas, war damage, salt from the river and smoke and steam from the docks all took their toll on the structure which was poorly maintained, particularly in wartime. The company was privately owned and its directors decided to close rather than try to find the investment needed to keep it going and the line closed in 1956 with most of the structure demolished soon after. The exhibition indicated that local people very quickly came to regret its passing as is transport efficiency was not replaced.
By now it was well into lunch time and, finding the museum cafe somewhat unexciting - and they were out of the first item we chose from their menu - so we walked across into the city shopping centre. After looking at various options, and not wanting a large meal, we opted for Byrons who specialise in up-market burgers. Christine felt, to the amusement of the waiter, somewhat challenged by the music - one could hardly call it background music! Still, the burgers were tasty.
Christine was in search of a couple of clothing items and we looked in every imaginable shop - and others as well without anything like success. On the brink of giving up on the hunt for the day, we eventually tried M&S, almost at the end of the shopping streets. Lo, she found both items!
A street stall yielded some fruit for tonight as well as some amusing banter!
By now it was quite wet as we made our way to Liverpool Central station where we caught the train back to Chester.
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