Wormleighton

Today's Canals : Grand Union, Oxford

Although today has been dry, it has also been very overcast and rather chilly. We set off in good time with a 20 minute run before the Calcutt Locks.

Calcutt Marina entrance is just below the bottom lock. 

Alongside the bottom lock landing is a small building associated with the back pumping. This design is typical of similar structures along this part of the Grand Union (and is noted in the reference we cited yesterday)

Two locks up and we called at the boatyard - we checked that they now were able to supply diesel today, after the disappointment that our lock companions has last week. As always the staff were very helpful and friendly. Christine nearly found a replacement for Tippy (our ash can) which is developing holes in the bottom but alas it proved to be a different make and a bit larger, too large to fit in the space available.

With the stop it was 10:30 before we cleared the top lock and headed towards Napton Junction. We turned right, back onto the Oxford, now the southern half. We passed the entrances to Wigrams Turn and Napton marinas. At the latter most of their fleet now seem to be back in for the winter. Certainly 20 of the, were.

This boat seems to have made use of every available surface to fit in  patchwork of solar panels. Should give them a good supply, at least on better days than today.

We paused just before the bridge below Napton Locks to fill with water. Another boat was just finishing its fill and started to set off when we spotted that they had left their keys in the water point lock! Lucky for them as it is likely that it would be some distance before they noticed that the were missing.

We had to move to the lock landing for elsan and rubbish but then we were ready to set off up the nine locks - back to narrow size now.

Alongside the lock we noticed a warning that we do not recall being there before - do not leave fenders hanging as some boats doing this have been stuck in the narrow locks. It is possible that at least one of the locks is a bit out of shape as well.

Moored just above the first lock was nb Silver Fox which we think was formerly owned by Colin and Shaun of Foxes Afloat videos fame.

Alongside the flight is a farm that has a specialist herd of buffalo, but where were they? The first field where we have often seen them before was full of (boring) sheep.

Above Lock 13 there was a convenient place to stop for lunch.

Off again and there at the next lock were some of the buffalo! Initially in the distance, they eagerly ambled across the field to come and greet us.

Soon after this we completed the Marston Doles locks and began the long trek across the 11 mile summit pound. The southern Oxford never received the straightening upgrade that took so much distance out of the northern half. All of this canal was first built under the direction of Brindley - at that time the technology available to him (largely shovel and wheelbarrow) dictated that he selected a route that avoided tunnels and large embankments or cuttings. Instead it followed contours which meant that it had a lot of bends! The Grand Union opened in 1803 and took most of the traffic into London that the southern Oxford previously carried down via the Thames. The northern section continued to carry a ,lot of coal and other goods so it received the upgrade, leaving the southern part to meander through rural countryside.

We cannot ignore the obligatory shot of the famous landlocked narrowboat which continues to be someone's home.

We began to see the HS2 works near Wormleighton. The first site, which does not cross the canal,.seems to be some sort of underpass, perhaps for drainage. It is the type of structure that is a major undertaking on its own but once the project is complete will not be noticed and probably be largely forgotten.

Soon after came the main bridge crossing the canal. When we passed here last year there was only one span but now a second is well on its way. The structure over the canal is in place but now work is needed either side leading up to it. The first span is a temporary haul route for construction vehicles and the one in the photo is the 'real' crossing. It certainly has more 'finished' look, including the textured wall on the right of the photo. See here for some images of how it is expected to look when complete and will have the name Oxford Canal Viaduct.

As soon as we reached the next available good mooring we pulled in before it was dark!

10.4 Miles - 12 Locks

Gibraltar (Bridge)

Today's Canal : Grand Union

Storm Ashley, or its remnant, was forecast to bring rain and high winds for today. Although it was definitely very grey, we set off in good time, remarkably warm and dry. Apart from a very short shower it stayed dry until lunch time.

Across the field from the canal (but it is a long way round on foot!) is the Radford Semele church and even before we set off we could hear the bells summoning parishioners to worship (though how many notice them these days is a moot point!)

The poor light and the fact that we came this way only a few days ago, means that we do not have many useable and useful pictures, but we quickly established an efficient routine at each lock. Out times were helped by the fact that we only had one set against us and two or three boats came the other direction at just the right moments.

The former lock cottage at Welsh Road is very impressive in some ways a reminder that even in the 1930s the canals were important and that lock keepers were key personnel able to ensure that boaters had the speediest journey available. This cottage was one of six constructed by LG Speight (see), one of the many contractors that worked on the major improvement programme for the Grand Union. Some say that its design reflects the style of similar cottages at locks on the Thames.

At the Bascote Staircase we noticed a distinctive feature not at any of the other locks in the area. It looks as it it is a paddle mechanism and is where in some places a side pond was once in use. Here, the only place that a sluice could discharge is into what are now the former narrow locks. However, we understand that these remained in use whilst the wide locks were being constructed and for some years after. In any case, why use a side pond only in the staircase is a mystery. Unless someone knows better!

We aimed to stop for lunch just before Long Itchington bit as we were coming alongside a sudden and very heavy shower arrived! By the time we had tied up and retreated inside we were rather wet!

After lunch, Mike was directed to begin preparation of tonight's roast dinner whilst the other two set off to tackle the next batch of 10 locks - there are very few mooring opportunities before reaching the top lock.

Very soon, the weather repented of its sins and turned very pleasant, with quite a bit of sunshine that lasted until the sun set.

Andrew and Christine through these ten locks in even quicker times, into Itchington Bottom Lock at 13:56 and out at the top by 15:18, a total of 82 minutes, 8 per lock. Not bad going!

We continued for a short while above the locks to find a good overnight mooring. As we passed the entrance to Stockton Top Marina the late afternoon sunshine was catching the trees, now quickly taking on autumnal colours, unless blown off by the high winds.

Beyond Birdingbury Bridge, the first part had been signed for winter moorings (starting 1st November) since we came down. At a quick glance as we passed, it seems that the designated stretch has no mooring rings or armco piling and very poor ground for pins. Plenty had taken up residence on the much  better option next along! Not long after we also moored to good armco.

8.0 Miles - 20 Locks

Radford Semele (facing the other way)

Today's Canal : Grand Union

Before we could move off today we had to wait for the delayed Locksmith that we booked yesterday. We were given an estimate that he would arrive around  10:30. Just after that time he phoned for detailed directions but was only a few minutes away.

Initially he was faced with the same difficulty that we had yesterday and could not make the lock turn. However, he must have a more skilled 'shake' as after about five minutes it eventually conceded defeat and the door was open! In fact, the lock itself was perfectly OK, except that we had that stripped the grub screw that retains the thumb knob used to open the lock from the inside. 

THE close examination it was obvious that Mike had not been careful enough when adding epoxy filler to solve the previous problem earlier in the journey. It seems that only the lightest of pressure on the end of the lock causes it to refuse to open - we guess that this is an intentional security feature. Although for the last three days there had been enough room for the lock to work properly, it was now catching on a small piece of the filler. With that removed, He Presto! and all was well. Although the locksmith did not have a spare grub screw he managed to fit an ordinary screw at least as a temporary measure. An expensive learning experience!

After settling the invoice we were able to move off, with an ETA from Andrew around 1 pm at Lidl. 

The short 45 minute run was very pleasant as bright sunshine had now arrived - early morning, the overnight rain was still with us.

Mike crossed this railway bridge on the car shuffle last week.

Between the mooring for Morrisons and that for Lidl there used to be a rather unsuccessful open space, presumably created when the adjoining large roundabout was built. It is currently being used as the base for some roadworks nearby - we suspect that not too many locals will be unduly discomfited by the lack of amenity. Hopefully it will be restored with a little more thought then before.

We arrived at the Lidl mooring in good time so started on the shopping - there is little available once we leave Leamington.  By the time we had finished (at least the distance from store door to boat was about as short as it could be!) Andrew had arrived and unloaded his stuff (including some spare firewood!) As he had had lunch on the way he then went to park his car nearby whilst Mike and Christine enjoyed her latest soup.

Around 2:15 we reversed back the short distance to the winding hole so that we could turn and begin our return journey back to Napton (and then down to the southern part of the Oxford Canal)

We stopped at Morrisons with a short shopping list of items that we could not find at Lidl. Christine was still stowing away the earlier collection and Andrew decided to take the boat down to the water point - we were getting rather low. This left Mike to visit Morrisons (not the best of experiences as it took some time to discover that they were out of stock of some of the items!) and then walk the towpath to catch up the boat two bridges along,  next to the student accommodation.

Shortly before he reached there, he was greeted by Andrew with the news that the tap has been decommissioned as it is not owned by CaRT. We concluded that it was by now a little late to make it to the next tap, three locks up and would stop at the same spot as last night, except for facing the opposite direction. Frugal washing until some time tomorrow morning!

4.7 Miles - 0 Locks

Leamington Spa

No boat movement today.

Christine had a Zoom meeting this afternoon, starting at 1.30 but she wanted to take advantage of being near a good shopping town centre whilst still being in a place with a reasonable mobile signal. The only option was to go in this morning - we aimed to catch a bus on the nearby main road into town, just about 7 minutes away.

We had yesterday studied the bus possibilities on Google maps - the main route is 63 which is an hourly service but an extra service on a different route was available at 9:46. What we should have done is to realise that this is the only service on this route each day! As we neared the stop, a very late 63 (should have been 9:30) went by and in the past we might have tried running for it but not now! 

When we reached the stop and checked on the timetable there was no mention of the other service. After a short dither we opted to walk to the next stop where we had been told there were other buses on a different route. Turned out to be a false hope and with yet another dither we decided to walk into town as we were by now almost half way there!

Overall, it was around an hour from leaving the boat that we reached the shopping district. On the way however, we did see some of the development that made this a very sought after place in the past, First we crossed over the River Leam. Before that bridge many of the houses were quite substantial but quite a lot have, inevitably, been subdivided into either offices or flats.

Once over the river, the buildings became ever more imposing. Victoria House was said at the time it was built around 1841 to be the most impressive in Leamington. It was, however, a speculative project and went through a cumbersome process to get from the initial purchase of a plot of land 21C to having a real building (almost as long as modern planning approvals!) Even then it was held on the market waiting for a buyer as the developer did not want it for himself (and in any case probably ran into his own financial troubles) It went through a lot of short term uses, often standing empty until in 1889 it was bought by a syndicate of local freemasons who converted into a masonic lodge. 

They soon formed a limited company and donated the property to it so that it could be rented out as meeting rooms for all sorts of purposes. It is that company that still operates it today, proud to being able to market it as offering some of the finest regency rooms in the area. Weddings, wakes, Christenings, conferences and many and varied celebrations take place here. (The web site has a lengthy history of the building)

Next along the road is Lansdown Crescent, an impressive row of town houses built in the very middle of the 19C. It seems that the original intent was to rent them out to wealthy visitors to the spa but gradually they became permanent residences, gradually being turned into flats.

The main shopping street, The Parade, (after about 1.75 mile walk) is also full of imposing buildings, many seeming to be too large for the ground floor shop that they house.

We found Trespass, The Body Shop, Mountain Warehouse as planned, all very close to each other, Christine found what she was seeking! (and Mike was persuaded to buy a couple pairs of gloves that he needed)

With the better part of an hour before our planned return bus (we did check out the stop and time!) we adjourned for a coffee and pastry. We might, if we missed out the coffee, have been in time for the hour earlier service but . . .  and here lay our big mistake. 

Other people waiting told us that this service is notoriously very late and so it proved, not helped by having to stop shortly after we eventually boarded in order to change driver. In the end we were almost half an hour later back at the boat than we planned. Still enough time for Christine to log in to her Zoom meeting.

As Mike began to unlock the rear doors he found that the lock would not turn. Eventually we gave up and used the front doors only to find that the mobile signal was having one of its hissy fits and so, annoyingly, Christine's meeting had already started without her when she logged on.

Mike then set about trying to found a locksmith as his further attempts at opening the rear doors only resulted in making the problem worse (the turn knob came apart!) The first three numbers from Google that he tried all had numbers invalid! He then made contact with another two who promised to come back to him in a couple of minutes - total silence! Eventually he tried a nationwide company (presumably an agency of some sort) but at least within a few minutes we had an email conforming that a locksmith would attend before the end of the afternoon. Phew!Relief.

Alas the relief lasted only an hour when a call came to say that the allocated locksmith had gone down with a tummy bug and it would be first thing tomorrow morning before anther one could come to us . . .

At least, tomorrow Andrew is joining us around midday, driving up by car so that if we eventually have to track down a new lock and see if we can fit it ourselves, we can do that more readily. So, not the best of days - shame we could not be cruising in a day of warm sunshine, but that's canal life.

0 Miles - 0 Locks

Radford Semele

Today's Canal : Grand Union

The forecast promised us a day with 0% rain and lots of sunny spells. As previous promises in the past week had not been fulfilled, we were very pleased that when we set off there was already more blueness than we have had for a while.

Although we have been deluged at times with falling leaves there is still a lot of green in the trees and shrubs. Even so, the sense of an imminent autumn is gradually growing on us.

We stopped after the first bridge to fill with water and to dispose of rubbish. The boater facilities along this stretch are spread out with no one place having everything.

Once we were underway yet again, it was not long before we arrived at the top of Bascote Locks. As a boat had just left we had hopes that at least some of the flight might be set for us. The staircase puzzled us a bit as the top lock was full (a boat had just left) but the bottom one was empty. The only reasonable way this would occur in normal operation is if the up boat had passed a down boat (one did pass us before we set off this morning) in the locks. Although the instruction panel says to check that NO boats have already started to ascend, this is one way, when there is only one  boat it at least one direction, to save a bit of time, effort and water.

The instructions also ask that a down boater checks that the bottom lock is empty before opening the paddles between the two locks of the staircase. The water from the top lock drains into the bottom lock, thus bringing it up to the correct intermediate level. If there is already water in the lower lock then there is a flood. Don't Do It! we are asked. However, we noticed that this flooding must have happened all too often as a channel has been built around the bottom gate structure to take the water away from the towpath! (yes, that looks like water in the channel but it was dry - we did NOT flood!)

So much blue!

There are two more single locks in the Bascote flight - we noticed a couple of contractors vans at the top and as we worked down we saw the crew of three carrying various heavy items of tools and equipment down to the bottom. They explained that they were due to conduct a routine inspection of the back pump which transfers water up to the pound above Bascote. Different aspects of the inspection required different skillsets.

After Welsh Road Lock we reached the site of an HS2 crossing. 

A large viaduct is needed and the track will be ramped up on either side. In the past we have spotted some of the huge amount of earth moving that is needed and now the two supporting pillars either side of the canal are gradually emerging from below ground. We did not see any activity on the site at all so perhaps it is a 'working from home day' . . . 

After Wood Lock we reached the three Fosse Locks. Below the first we paused briefly at the Fosse Way road bridge to avail ourselves of the outdoor elsan disposal point.

Three more locks to go. Alongside Radford Bottom, the last one, the towpath had a pretty carpet of leaves.

So, Radford Bottom marks the end of the descent from Napton Junction and we are on the Leamington level. This is a 'sump' as on the other side the canal commences its climb towards Birmingham, much with the Hatton 21 flight - which, thankfully, we do not need to do this trip as we will be turning around in Leamington after Andrew joins us.

Just after the bridge below the lock we could see the sunken boat about which we had been warned. A boater who came through a few days ago also advised that we keep as close as is sensible to the wreck  as others had given it a wide berth and run aground on some submerged objects on the offside of the canal. It is always sad to see a distressed boat such as this but even more so when it is one with some of the heritage bound up in it.

About 15 minutes later we arrived at Radford Semele and found a good mooring just before the main road bridge into Leamington.

5.0 Miles - 10 Locks

Bascote

Today's Canal : Grand Union

Although quite noticeably less cold, today remained very misty with low cloud obscuring any attempt at sunshine. Neither of us noticed it, but there must have been quite a lot of rain overnight as everywhere was especially wet, including the locks and their balance beams.

Soon after setting off we passed Nelson's Wharf, a new redevelopment of an old arm that linked to the original lime works and, later, the cement works. It is not very long but provides space for 9 permanent moorings, as well as three on the main line. They also have several well-appointed luxury camping pods. The main building visible from the canal was originally used as home to Willow Wren Training, a provider of certified courses for narrowboat helmsmen. Alas, they now seem to have closed but parts of the building were in use when we passed by. The Nelson's Wharf web site has quite a bit of interesting history as well as a diary of the restoration project.

A little further and Stockton Top Marina announces that we are almost at the lock flight. This marina is now the only home of Kate Boats, having eventually given up their Warwick base entirely. Fortunately we were not wanting to fill up with diesel as a sign indicated that they were Closed.

And so to the start of the nine locks comprising Stockton Locks - 8 in the main section closely followed by Stockton Bottom Lock. The 8 are close together and, apart from one, quite easy to operate. The second lock took extra time as we did not immediately spot that the lower gates were leaking so badly that it would not fill just with one paddle open.

The first few locks were set against us as a boat had passed us about half an hour before we set off. A volunteer lock keeper did appear but opted to go up to the top where he assisted the next boat down. Two boats sharing came up so at least a couple were set in our favour until we reverted to being behind the descending boat. 

We made steady progress, if not our fastest ever passage, and left the 8th lock just under two hours after starting. 

The next lock is sometimes called Shop Lock and sometimes Stockton Bottom Lock. It is slightly separate from the main flight of 8 and also is rather deeper, similar to the individual locks that follow from here to Warwick. We were rather concerned about the obvious cracks that have appeared in the concrete structure around the nearside bottom paddle. Was this a sign that the lock wall was moving inwards? After leaving the lock we could see that there is no apparent sign of movement so perhaps it is the rest of the structure that has moved the other way.

And so to Itchington Bottom Lock, our last of the day. Why 'Bottom' - we do not know as there is no middle or top!

From Bickley's Bridge 26 to the former railway bridge, the towpath edge is yet another design - not one that we recall having seen elsewhere. It looks as if the coping is built from pre cast blocks of a clear, angular shape. In any event, it has survived very well.

As it was now 1 o'clock - time for lunch - and the four Bascote Locks were just ahead, so we moored on a good stretch of armco. We opted to leave the remaining locks until tomorrow but  we may regret this as Christine has realised that she has a Zoom meeting on Friday afternoon - the shopping trip into Leamington may not now be possible . . . 

The more attentive reader may well spot that we have only done 10 locks today whilst yesterday we said it would be 11. The total to Leamington remains the same but we misread the best mooring spot!

2.9 Miles - 10 Locks

Birdingbury

Today's Canals : Oxford, Grand Union

It was very grey when we set off with the cloud levels almost down to the ground. Although there was a half hearted attempt later for the sun to break through there was little change for the rest of the day. BUt it did not rain.

In our description of different types of bank protection yesterday, we did not mention this one which is, as far as we know, unique to the Grand Union. The concrete coping is the main characteristic as well as the basic data that are imprinted whilst the concrete was still setting. The depth of the piles and the dredging limit are always given and, in many cases, also a year date. 

In this case, it was created in 1934 which according to what we understand, is quite significant. Although canal traffic was clearly in its sunset years, it was still strategically important. But this was also the time of widespread depression and low economic activity. Traditional economics only seemed  to make matters worse until the arrival of Keynesian theory. A core proposal was that governments should inject money into the economy by setting up labour intensive capital projects, typically infrastructure. The most important canal (or so it seemed to London centric politicians!) was the Grand Union and bank renewal and dredging were undertaken along the whole length, where needed.

Many of the new works were on bends where badly steered boats have a tendency to run straight into the apex of the curve. (This typically happens if the boat is steered too far to the inside of the bend, then catches on  shallow silt whereupon it looses steering and continues straight ahead, rather than making the turn requested via the rudder) The damage over the years can always be seen - this example is especially large, but at least it comes across in the photo! It is, however, an important tribute to this design as, even with such damage, the bank remains intact - not bad for ninety years.

A little further, as we passed under Bridge 103, we spotted that the towpath ahead is temporarily closed. 

The reason quickly became apparent as we passed a team busy (ish!) at installing a new piece of piling and armco.

New ideas about bank protection continue to be tried out. For a few years, there has been some pressure from environmental lobbies to use more eco-friendly techniques. One method that comes from work on still waters (such as fishing lakes and reservoirs) uses a special mesh which is supported at intervals by wooden stakes hammered into the ground (unlikely to be the depths of the 1934 piles!) Not everyone was convinced at the outset, especially about its durability and this photo shows those fears realised. The passing of boats, with the attendant wakes, has sucked out the soil from behind the mesh, exposing more of the posts to weathering. The mesh is  not very deep, as we have seen when we have passed it being installed, and this can lead to the bank being undermined. It seems unlikely that this specimen will survive 90 years . . .

At Napton Junction we turned right, passing under the junction bridge that carries the towpath. The entrance to Wigrams Turn Marina is directly opposite the bridge. The Oxford Canal continues in its same direction heading down to the River Thames. We will turn in that direction when we come back here next week. There is  no ambiguity now - we are definitely on the Grand Union, heading to Warwick. (Well, probably Leamington Spa but the canal was built as the Warwick and Napton Canal. The Grand Union was gradually formed from several once independent companies, taking its current definition in 1929)

We were joined at Napton Top Lock by another boat Simply Messing, but they were intending to stop at the boatyard to fill with diesel.

However, as they arrived they were told that the diesel tank was empty so they rejoined us and we worked down all the three locks together, our locking techniques seemed very compatible. They currently have their home mooring in the Sunrise part of Ventnor Farm Marina. They also admitted to reading our blog! A pity we could not share any more of the upcoming locks. (20 to Leamington)

We waved farewell to them as they turned into their marina. (We had already passed the entrance by then)

The steam powered narrow boat Adamant was moored in its usual place but a sign in a window announced that it is now for sale. It was looking a little in need of tlc - perhaps it has become too much for its owner. It cannot be an easy boat to own, learning how to get the best out of a steam engine is not simple and regular boiler maintenance and testing is never going to be either straightforward or cheap. Lets hope that it finds a new enthusiastic owner soon and that we can see it chuffing around the network for a lot longer.

Shortly before Birdingbury Bridge, we could see a long line of moored boats and fearing that we might be stuck with nowhere to stop for lunch just above the Stockton flight, we grabbed a vacant spot right at the start, almost hidden in extensive reeds. As soon as we had tied up we agreed that this might just do for the rest of the day - but we will have a busier day tomorrow, with at least 11 locks to do.

6.3 Miles - 3 Locks