Stanground

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

The weather was bright and sunny when we awoke but by the time we set off from the Rural Mooring the forecast rain was just arriving. Ultimately it came to very little, although we did don waterproofs for a  short period. Still pleasantly warm but with an even stiffer breeze than yesterday.

Most of today's cruise was to be along mainly long straight sections with few special features to note. As a result most of today's pictures are chosen for themselves rather than to illustrate a particular point.

This one brings out the sense of isolation even though there are quite a few farms or other dwellings spread out along the bumpy roads on the top of the banks lining the navigable dykes or drains.

As we found on Sunday, these rural roads, even the named A or B roads, are bumpy from subsidence. The bumps are not usually marked - there are just too many - locals get to know when to avoid the normal left side of the road. Sometimes, the highway authority does indicate a particular section with a standard 'bumpy road' sign. We wondered if this section was especially rough, enough to warrant the addition of a SLOW sign!

Someone must be especially patriotic (hopefully and not something more partisan) as their substantial flagpole must have cost a few pennies. In the exposed and windy location they may well have to replace the flag quite often as well.

The way in which this pipe bridge neatly encloses the brighter sky is even more striking on a thumbnail.

Just before the junction with the Twenty Foot River at Angle Corner we suddenly spotted this Rural Mooring. Information about the locations of the new moorings is scant and we had thought that this one was actually on the Twenty Foot. If we had known we might have been tempted to press on to here yesterday (glad we didn't) This one is even 'rougher' than where we did stop and only had two poles for attaching mooring lines. Still, the Commissioners are moving in the right direction, so don't complain!

That is the Twenty Foot, going under this low bridge, where we thought the Rural Mooring had been built. One of the reasons we did not originally opt for here was uncertainty of whether we could get under that bridge. Few boats venture that way as there are several very low bridges in that direction.

Just a 'nice' picture. Note: we missed the shot from the other side as we were a bit too slow so have flipped the image so that the MLC is easier to see! (Just in case anyone who knows the Middle level spots it)

Going around one of the few corners, we were taking this shot of a pumping station, for reference, when we suddenly realised that the grey clouds had suddenly been replaced by bright blue sky, which remained with us until after we moored.

And so to Ashline Lock - which we knew would be hard work.

Alongside the lock is this instruction. How difficult is that to understand? So Mike was not a little displeased to see, as he walked up from the lock landing below, to discover that both top gates were left open. As there is no way across the top of the lock it is a long walk around to do both. Back then to the bottom gate and to begin opening one of the penstocks. (These take 70+ turns to open fully) After 30 turns the water below looked as if it was letting put a good flow already so Mike paused to regain his breath. But he could see that the water level in the lock was barely dropping at all. The top gates did not look quite fully closed  - the mitre normally ensures that this happens quickly. So, he closed the penstock and walked up to the top and made sure that the gates were as closed as could be and that nothing was blocking, holding them ajar.

Back to the bottom penstocks and the same experience repeated except that he could now see that water was coming through at least one of the top penstocks - the water level had to drop just a little for it to be obvious. Mike had already checked the towpath side penstock and it seemed closed so back around to the offside and he found that one to be fully open. He closed it and returned to the other end. yet still it seemed as if water was coming in at the top. Back up to the towpath penstock. This time he discovered that it had been opened sufficiently firmly that it required quite a bit of force to start it turning to close.

At last the lock level was dropping! Whilst waiting for the lock to empty Mike spotted the remains of the original location of the bottom gates. The lock has clearly been extended at some time to allow today's longer craft to pass through.

The original location is just this side of the modern escape ladders.

Eventually it was possible to open both gates and allow Christine to bring our boat inside. This is not the fastest of locks to fill or empty at the best of times as the penstocks take even the fittest navigator (the MLC term for boater, everything has a special name hereabouts!) some time to open fully.

Once Christine had escaped, on her way to the upper lock landing, Mike closed up the top gates and penstocks. But of course, those who can read will know that the sign meant that his work was not over as he still had to empty the lock. An hour after arriving Mike could now return to the boat, exhausted, waving farewell to the lock with not a little relief.

Whittlesey Mooring, just above the lock, was under repair when we came down but is now in operation, we were more than grateful that it was empty so that we could tie up for a longer lunch break.  As well as being extensively refurbished an entirely new water point has been installed. Our tank was quite full but decided to top up anyway.

Before we set off this morning we phoned Stanground and discovered that there were no booked passages this afternoon and so (with the 24 hours notice rule) we would need to wait until 10 am tomorrow. However we were also given permission to moor on the lock landing at Stanground overnight so that we did not have to set off from Whittlesey before dawn! It is around an hour and three quarters cruise to the lock, with no known moorings in between.

Not long after leaving the Whittlesey mooring we had to negotiate the Briggate turning, a well known problem for longer boats. At one stage the turn was so tight that navigation was limited to the size of boats indicated by the original gate position at Ashline Lock. In more recent times, a little more space has been squeezed out of the steep sides but it is still necessary to take it at the slowest speed possible. This is to allow the boat time to turn about its centre position before running into the outside of the corner. Also, we knew from our last visit here that if you take the boat too close to the inside it is likely to stick on built up silt. We are pleased to report that we made it around without touching any of the sides!

Approaching Peterborough these chimneys are a landmark for some time. They belonged to a large brick works that made millions of the famous Fletton bricks. As far as we can discover the site has now closed and is being made over to the inevitable new housing.

Just before the junction with the Old Course River Nene (not accessible here for navigation) is the Peterborough Depot of the London Tower Cranes Company. We assume that the three cranes that tower over the site are used to sort out the stock of parts and load onto lorries. Passing them they feel quite ominous, almost ready for a part in a mid 20C sci-fi special - or even a location for a Doctor Who contemporary episode.

Another 20 minutes and we turned the corner immediately ahead of Stanground Lock. It was with a great sigh of relief that we could see that it was quite free (actually only just long enough for us, we stuck out both ends) There are very few 'wild' moorings on the Middle Level and, despite keeping a beady eye for a Plan B just in case someone had beaten us to the space, we had not really seen anything suitable. Pix of the lock and landing will have to wait to the morrow.

9.9 Miles - 1 Lock

Back to Fox Marina, March

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

There were a number of matters weighing on our minds at the end of the last week, as we were preparing to return to the boat on Monday. The worst case scenario would have been that we had to return home straight away if the boat was not was not ready to live on! 

The most pressing matter was the Thetford toilet which had played up when Mike came to do the final emptying at the end of the last trip. This was put on a Job Sheet, now of three items, that the marina undertook to fix before we came back. Indeed, we had a phone call very quickly after we returned home to say that all was now OK but that they could not find any fault with the toilet. This left us wondering if they had missed the problem that we encountered. A boat with no toilet is not really usable!

On Saturday afternoon we went shopping - not a lot as we planned to do most on the day after we arrived back at the boat - there are several sizeable supermarkets in March. Driving back home, Christine suddenly posed the question, "Should we try and leave tomorrow?" After much debate  - fall back plans in case of disaster  took a bit of figuring out - we decided to get up fairly promptly on Sunday and leave as soon after 9 as we could manage.

With the car already packed apart from fridge and freezer items, we surprised ourselves by getting on the road by 9:15. For the most part, traffic was light - except at service station stops! We made good progress to Cherwell Valley Services but the EV chargers were all but fully occupied, We found an empty slot only to discover why - it is a non-tethered outlet, meaning that it would be slow. At least we have kept our portable tether in the car 'in case' and plugged it in. We went into the service station for the loos and a Costa coffee.

Once finished we returned to the car and were pleased that it had done at least some top up - unlike the adjacent car which when its driver came back had stopped charging soon after they went for their coffee.

We reset the satnav for Fox Marina and set off once more. Part way we spotted a large retail area, with much intended as a service stop. As we came in we also noted that there were several higher rate chargers available. We opted then to have our lunch rolls and by the time we had eaten as much as we wanted, the car was all but fully charged. As it turned out a little later, this was a 'good move'.

We were within a couple of miles of the narina when we were faced with signs saying Road Closed - Diversion. We found out later that it was only a short length closure for the weekend to enable the construction of a new roundabout. We dutifully followed the diversion signs which gradually became less and less clear - but it was obvious that we could soon be in Kings Lynn! We resorted to a road atlas supported by the satnav. Before long we were at least on a road (through Upwell!) that had March on its direction signs. Alas, we then turned towards our destination only to be faced with another road closure but limited diversion information. Neither of these closures seemed to have been notified to the satnav companies. We did eventually arrive at the boat but at least 45 minutes after we were just minutes away! If we had not done that second charge we would have been biting fingernails by now.

All this excitement (?) meant that we did not feel exceptionally hungry so our evening meal was re-planned to be a much smaller plate! We did manage to get the toilet working but remained concerned that we might not be able to empty it!

This morning we made sure that we were ready as soon as the office was due to open at 9. Gerald was despatched very quickly to 'sort us out'. He demonstrated that the toilet could be used properly but did advise a specific clean to ensure that the cassette could slide in as smoothly as possible. He also explained in much more detail than on the phone what he had done to the gas issues - we worried unnecessarily but it would have been 'nice' to have been given the full picture up front!

Before long we were able to drive to a nearby Lidl for quite an extensive larder fill. With one exception we collected all that was on our list and that we left to a later date so that we could get back to the boat ready to leave before lunch.

But first we had to fill up the fuel tank and then the terrifying task of paying for all the mooring, fuel, work etc etc.

Of course, as soon as we were ready to leave, rain started - it was not in the forecast, so how dare it? Especially as a boater nearby was starting to work on his external paintwork! (Well, his boat's paintwork, actually)

Just a short distance outside the marina is the main office of the Middle Level Commissioners. They have, since we came here last, added a water point and a sign that says Visitor Mooring, but also ambiguously seemed to suggest that you could only stop to go to the office. But then, there was no obvious way into that building from the mooring! Still, we felt safe enough to risk it to have lunch here!

Just after 2 we set off again and aimed to get as far as one of the newish Rural Moorings that have been established to meet commitments made by the Commissioners to spend some of the new licence money on improving facilities for boaters (remember that the Commissioners were set up to maintain the irrigation capability - navigation is a modern extension and widely thought to be a lower priority)

The route from here to the mooring is largely isolated so not too many photo opportunities - but we try!

A group were just getting into their car as we passed but took time to wave vigorously - and welcomingly - as did we.

There are few roads around here so only a couple of bridges and they seemed now to be for access to private property (or so their signs said!)

Many of the properties close to the navigation barely protrude above the level of the banks. As these photos show, the short shower soon gave way to a perfect afternoon - warm but with a fresh breeze. Mostly blue skies.

From time to time, a large block of cloud passed us by but there was never any threat of rain. However, some displayed quite interesting shapes and formations.

We passed Floods Ferry Marina. now predominantly a caravan and lodge facility. As well  as static caravans, there were several touring ones.

With the floating duck weed and the like now quickly dying off at the end of their season, the moorings looked a lot pleasanter than when passed earlier in the summer.

The meridian sign, placed here by March Rotary, seems to be being kept in a good decorative state.

And so to Floods Ferry Junction. Up to now we had been following the Old Route of the River Nene but our way now branches off as Whittlesey Dyke. Many of the drains were originally separate projects but now come together under the Middle Level Commissioners for more efficient operation.

 

However, it was immediately obvious that this section was built differently and now is lined with tall reeds and steeper banks.

Almost all of the hay/straw (never sure how to tell the difference at a distance) stores have now gone over to this cuboid shape presumably as it stacks more efficiently than the older style round bales. Most that we have seen are kept out in the open but this farm has packed most of theirs under a newish roof! They clearly harvested more than this barn can hold as there was another open stack close by. 

We arrived at the expected Rural Mooring with the minimum of indication! Not even a name . . . As the photo shows, we could moor easily to the large posts - only room for one narrowboat, possibly two small cruisers - but no real access to the shore. Even if we deployed our gangplank, the climb up the bank is a challenge too far, at least for us and tonight! We will try to take a longer shot of the mooring when we depart tomorrow. But at least it is here, is quiet and meets our needs for tonight! And was empty.

5.5 Miles - 0 Locks

Foxes Marina, March

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

Today was Car Shuffle Day. Yes, we know that this is normally the day before returning home to maximise the time spent in 'real' cruising. These days we are less concerned about 'putting in the miles' than being comfortable and operating within our current capabilities, not those we had back in the Sixties! And then we had a really generous offer from David to come hand give Mike a lift directly from the marina in March to that in Buckden. We did just about have a public transport route worked out but it would have taken up quite bit of the day.

We were only a mile away so it was not necessary to get up before dawn to arrive by the agreed 11:30 agreed pick up time. Instead we set off from the town mooring just after 9 o'clock, but we did not move very far, just under the Town Bridge. The service block here has been rebuilt by the local council since we last came here 8 years ago. In theory it is a lot better - at least it is new! And it is fitted with locks that use the standard Middle Level Commissioners key rather than one just for the single place, as it was before. 

However, the first thing we saw was that the pump out with contactless payment is now out of order and the sign looks like it has been there for a while. Although the facility is supposed to have rubbish disposal there was a single domestic-scale bin with no segregation! We were initially relieved that the key we bought some weeks back at Stanground (but replaced at Salters Lode) fitted the door lock.

We were keen to empty the two full cassettes here as it is just a couple of metres from the boat whilst we discovered at our night's stopover at Foxes that there it is a bit of a walk. When we came to lock up after we had finished we found that although the key fits snugly into the lock, the lock does not turn and the door had been open all the time anyway!

The final part of this segment in the 2026 Cruise was through a residential part of March. The greater portion of the adjacent properties have moorings built at the end of their gardens, but some are not used and some very much in need of a re-build. Even so, the number of boats was quite high but it is clear that the Middle Level Commissioners have yet to work out a cost-effective enforcement process (but none of the other navigation authorities have either) Most of the moored boats are short and appear to be mainly for day trips. Hence it is perhaps to be expected that if a once-enthusiastic family lose interest, they just let their small boat survive as best it can.

Under the A141 Isle of Ely Way (the bypass to the west of the town) and immediately turned into the marina. Although we knew the berth we had provisionally been allocated, it was not at all clear where that was, so Christine first had to get ashone (harder in the context than it sounds) to make enquiries from the office. Mike was pointed in the direction of the East Basin but once inside he had to make a couple of tight turns before reversing onto the correct mooring, almost at the far end. Fortunately there was only a light breeze and it came at just the right time to assist in the final turn. In a typical marina wind it would not been anything like as tidy a manoeuvre!

Mike walked to the marina entrance just as David was driving in so neither of us had to wait nervously wondering if we were in the right place! The roads were busy but not so as to cause significant delay and about half an hour later Mike was reunited with our car.

But he could not immediately return  to the boat as the car battery was down to 50% and we had not located a fast charger in March. So, Mike returned to the SmartCharge point next to Sainsbury , Huntingdon where, by the time he had picked up a sandwich from the store, found another item on the shopping list and asked the three phone shop for an update on the timescale for the network merger with Vodafone (still taking a lot longer than initially announced) and returned to the car it was already around 95%. However he then spotted a notice on the next door charger that he should have bought a parking ticket separately from the electric cost so he rectified that. The notice on the charger he actually used was mangled and the message was not visible. Seems to be a recurring feature in places where such extra charges are levied.

Then he was back on the road and with the help of satnav had no difficulty in making his way back to the marina where Christine had been busy sorting out clothes for the upcoming change from summer to autumn/winter attire.

The afternoon was wet so no photos yet of the marina and our mooring - perhaps tomorrow!

 

1.1 Miles - 0 Locks

March

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

Our aim today was to get as far as March and, hopefully, find an overnight stop on the Town Mooring. We have had a very kind offer to transport Mike from March to Buckden so that he can collect the car. We have also agreed with the marina where we have booked the boat in for about ten days whilst we make another trip back home that we can arrive tomorrow mid morning for the pick up.

Today we have a simple run along the Link Route with just one lock to pass through. When we awoke it was already getting bright outside with the sun low in the sky illuminating the nearby church perhaps more interestingly than the floodlighting they had on last night.

As we were getting ready to leave, Christine persuaded Mike to fill the water tank again - it was still 75% full but she might well want to do some laundry tomorrow during the car shuffle. We had moored last night that the far end, too far from the water point at the near end (in the photo). Mike decided to pull the boat along rather than turn on the engine for such a short distance (why?) Not the fastest tap but it took only a short time to be overflowing.

Upwell is a remarkably long ribbon development with little other than the water-facing buildings spread out for little short of two miles along the Middle Level, here formerly the old route of the Great Ouse (but diverted long before most of these properties developed and as part of the drainage ambitions for the Fens without which the wealth of the area would not have come about) Many of the houses that we could see as we set off are from the 18th and 19th centuries or just into the 20th. A lot are Listed at some grade. Each is very individual and we tried to spot some where we could possibly find a little about its past. Unlike much of the mid 20C development patterns, these properties have huge mansions cheek by jowl with more basic homes for workers and and families. Let's look at a few.

Almost opposite our mooring is White Lion House (next to the village butcher's shop) As the name suggests this was once a pub, built in the 17th C with later adaptations. It must have been converted to a private residence some time ago as it is not described as a PH on the OS map at the start of 20C.

The front of this house has a strange feature for which we have not found an explanation: why is the front door blocked up and where is it now?

Lee House is probably from the turn of the 19/20 centuries and has six bedrooms. It is said to be the most expensive house in its postcode, currently valued at over £800K.

74 Crescent House also has 6 bedrooms and is probably slightly older. It is interesting to wonder what sort of family might have occupied either of these properties  a century ago in very different social situations from today and how they acquired the wealth to buy them. It is a little surprising that both seem still to be single dwellings and not converted or subdivided.

Not far along is this pair of semis, numbers 77 and 78, Bramley Cottages, which are more modest but perhaps for the emerging 'middle class' as they are rather more substantial than simple worker cottages. Today they are each ranked about 10th most valuable in the village! Next door is the more substantial Bramley House. What caught our eye, however, are the two apparently blocked up window openings. The buildings are probably not old enough to have been subject to Window Tax, repealed in 1851. Also, they are much smaller than the other windows so were they just ornamental, perhaps?

These are just a few of the many properties, each with its own history and stories to tell. (No wonder David Olusoga's Houses Through Time are so fascinating) and we haven't included either the big estate house set a little back from Town Street or any of the smallest dwellings- many of which have been replaced by mid 20C (ie boring!) 'upgrades'.

We arrived at Marchmont Priory Lock preparing to operate it ourselves. When we passed here in mid July we had the assistance of the new occupier of the lock cottage who moved in early this year. However we were delighted that he popped out of his painting shed and had the gates open before we arrived. Mike took the opportunity of no other boat waiting to use the lock to check the weed hatch. As it happened, there was not much entangled save for a small amount of fishing line. Christine had a good chat with both the informal lock keeper and his wife - he maintains the traditions of canal Roses and Castles whilst she is an avid gardener (it shows!) No wonder it took over half an hour to transit a lock already set in our favour. We also failed to take any photos until we were well on our way.

Before long we were at Low Corner (where New Popham's Eau connects with the Old River Ouse - a 'failed' attempt at Fenland drainage) and the start of a huge wind farm. It took us around half an hour to pass from Low Corner to Reed Fen End, the extent of the wind farm.

It was then a pleasant, yet isolated, cruise along the level Fen waterway. Eventually we reached the railway line that marks the eastern edge of the town of March.

Most of the houses that abut the waterway have some form of mooring and plenty have boats. Alas a few seem to be abandoned or forgotten but most properties seem to enjoy their outlook. A number are for sale including this one with a couple of  summerhouses and other facilities to enable warm summer evenings to be properly enjoyed. Alas, you cannot buy just these as they go with a modern house on the market for a mere snip at £510K! The estate agent emphasises that "this home is perfect for someone wanting to enjoy the riverside with 75ft (approx.) landing stage plus substantial home with two garages, double carport and wrap around garden! Accommodation comprises lounge plus dining room, refitted kitchen/breakfast room, utility and WC, garden room plus conservatory, four bedrooms with ensuite and family bathroom!"

Around the corner we arrived at the Town Mooring with just one boat already there. They moor elsewhere on the Middle Level and left to return there mid afternoon. We were joined later by another boat but still plenty of space for any more arrivals.

Later in the afternoon Christine went into town to the nearby Sainsbury store for just a few items and  a charity show for a new top to go with the new trousers from Ely. Meanwhile Mike dived into numerous rabbit holes whilst researching the history of Upwell and catching up on progress at the Whitchurch Breach repair site.

7.7 Miles - 1 Lock

Upwell

Today's Navigation : Middle Level - Well Creek

The forecast was a possible inclusion of almost all types of weather (except snow and hail) In reality, it started a bit grey but with a slightly more than stiff breeze but still warm enough to avoid adding much extra clothing! Most of the morning was quite sunny.

We set off around 9.30, no need for a specially early start as our objective was Upwell. On this navigation moorings are well spaced apart and at least we know that the Church Mooring in Upwell is a good one and room for about three boats. 

Christine suggested to Mike that he should take a photo looking directly into the lock, one she describes as the ugliest she has seen!

Mike also wanted to see what was on the Advice to Navigators, a sign on the opposite side from the lock landing. It is also placed very close to the gates so that boaters are unlikely to be able to study it until it is too late! The print is miniscule. Fortunately when we could actually read it, it turns out to be rather limited and mainly about protecting the Middle Level Commissioners from any claim that they did not warn that boaters to cross on their own decision! Plus the usual things about lifejacket and anchor.

It is a quiet and pleasant cruise with a speed limit set unrealistically high at 4 mph. The restricted width and depth, with added reeds and rushes meant that we were lucky to get up to 2.5 mph.

At Nordelph was spotted an estate agents board outside the former windmill pumping station which we noted back in mid July (see) buy it was not then on the market. Particulars of Sale often give clues about the origins of the property. The windmill was built around 1650 to drive one of the many drainage pumping engines that were and still are the fundamental base of keeping the entire Fenland area from drowning. The conversion is over four levels and on a half acre site has umpteen additional buildings. On the market for between £500K and £550K.

Nordelph has what must be one of the grandest looking fronts of any village hall! The main part was built in 1905 as a farmhouse but has now been significantly extended to offer a wide range of facilities for all sorts of events and activities. It was comprehensively renovated in 2023. 

An object lesson in using online searches: Entering nordelph village hall history into Google returned in its AI Overview a description of an entirely different village hall some way distant in Thursford! That description did not match the photo at all.  Fortunately, the village hall's own website had a more credible story.

Nordelph Junction looks on the map as if it should link to Old Pophams Eau (which is navigable) but alas there is a small weir just visible in the photo that blocks access.

It has seemed to us that the haystacks are much larger this year. Certainly in the last few days we have spotted several that were clearly visible from some distance away.  This one uses a different shape of bale from those we have seen before - the ends are slightly rounded. The sign states Do Not Climb - not sure how (or indeed why) anyone would manage to climb as these bales have been stacked with quite smooth surfaces. Of course: litigious societies demand endless signs!

As we crossed Mullicourt Aqueduct we could ahead of us that water was energetically being pumped up from Main Drain at the level below. Of course, as soon as our camera was ready and we were alongside, the rush of water had declined to a dribble!

Not seen so far on this year's travels - a field full of pumpkins ready to pick. Peak demand is, of course, in time for Halloween but that is two months away. Will they last that long? Have they been a victim of early ripening like many other summer crops?

We have tried every time to get a proper photo of Outwell Parish Church. As well as being on a sharp bend under a difficult bridge followed by a narrow channel, large trees block the main view. This shot, much zoomed, manages a bit more than just the East end window that we have been limited to before.

Church Drove Bridge in Outwell has a keystone that indicates that it was bult in 1852.

Now in Upwell, the name on this house amused us: Up-to-date Cottage 1901. Wonder what its initial owners thought was so special about it?

Just a glimpse of a former mill in the small gap between houses on the waterfront. Sander's Mill was built in 1829 by a John Hopkins Sanders, a local miller. After conversion first to auxiliary steam and then to full electric power it continued operation until perhaps the early 1970s. By 1976 it had been converted to a hotel and later a pub but that closed in 2007 and within two years had had become adapted as a private residence. (see and with old pix)

Shortly after this we arrived at our planned destination and relieved to find space - in fact, it was entirely empty, not something we have experienced before.

6.4 Miles - 0 Locks