St Ives

Today's Navigations : River Great Ouse, inc Old West River

After writing yesterday's blog several more boats turned up to moor for the night. In the end there were five of us and still a bit of room left.

Just as the sun was setting Mike managed, with the help of a waking pole and some inelegant bottom shuffling, to get to the top of the flood bank, mainly to answer Christine's inquisitiveness about what lay beyond. Like with so many well-wrapped mysteries, this one amounted to very little. 

The land is very flat and fields are large. In the distance one field was still being combined and elsewhere a couple of irrigation pumps were spraying vigorously.

 

We were away in good time today - still not the first to leave! The next section is quite narrow and for a while the duckweed extended from bank to bank, quickly recovering after being pushed apart as we passed through. As expected our progress was not fast.

To be fair, the river to Hermitage is nor full of exciting landmarks, but neither is it boring. As this is still The Fens, formed from reclaimed land, there are numerous pumping stations and drainage lodes. The work was done over a very long time and so each one is different. If you did not know better, you could be excused for thinking that this was a dream, country cottage with a pleasant little brook at the bottom of its garden.

After about an hour we could begin to see Hermitage where the busy road that had hugged the river bank for about the last mile crosses over the top of the lock to join the A1123. But first we passed the entrance to Hermitage Marina. This looks well equipped to deal with some serious engineering on boats.

We had called ahead to the lock keeper, as requested on a sign 0.75n miles away, so he was ready looking out for us. As there was no boat coming the other way we were able to drive straight in. The river ahead is tidal so the amount of rise varies. Along with reduced water flows, this meant that we did not have long to wait for the other end gates to open.

The pontoon above can be used for overnight mooring whenever the lock is closed - at 6 pm in the summer. (Mooring is not permitted at the other end)

There is a complex junction just above the lock, all connected with handling excess water in times of flood. Needless to say, it was not working hard at that today! New Bedford River, which is navigable with care and experience, runs almost entirely straight, coming out alongside Denver Sluice directly into the tidal river we crossed a few days ago. As a result the next section of river up to Brownshill is also tidal. Of course the extent of the tide gradually diminishes and by half way there it was hardly discernible. 

Old Bedford River follows the same course and the aim is to create a flood basin between the two as a holding place whilst flood waters gradually run away safely. However it is no longer navigable from this end and only in special circumstances from the other end.

As we neared Brownshill Lock (formerly Staunch) we could see that something was amiss. Closer we could a cruiser obviously aground and a narrowboat leaving, having been unable to help them. Only just off the natural line out of the lock the river bed is extremely shallow. Indeed one of the two chaps with the boat was able to walk all around with his feet on the bottom and waist well above the water. We were exremely surprised that it is not marked woth warning bouys.

The chap on the landing stage asked if it was possible to try to pull them off backwards - the other boat had tried forwards but made no difference. With some  trepidation we agreed t o give it a go - especially as they were totally out of options as to what else to do!

We managed to get close enough without ourselves going aground to catch their rope with our book hook fully extended, First attempt was not successful, mainly because Mike had not attached the rope properly to our stern (wrong side). Second attempt went very smoothly and in no time the other boat was free and able to come alongside the landing pontoon. During all this we were too preoccupied even to think about photos until they were off into the distance, mightily relieved!

All we had to do now was to lock ourselves through, grateful that it is fully mechanised - and carry on as if nothing much had happened!

We were now back on a non-tidal river, very much like the scenery we left behind at Popes Corner. There is a wide variety of ways in which people make use of the river, especially as it is very clean and clear. This group of three female swimmers were only out to relax. no great physical targets to beat we suspect. They did insist on keeping to mid channel which made it harder for us to ensure that we missed all of them. At least they were all using highly visible marker buoys.

We then came under this bridge with a solitary cyclist crossing. We had forgotten what it was for but a quick glance suggested it followed the route of a now closed railway. The bridge was modern and noy cheap to construct so later we investigated - or to refresh our memories. It is part of the Cambridgeshire Guided Busway - its web site explains  The busway track - the longest in the world - is made up of two concrete beams with kerbs and guide wheels on the bus connect with the kerb and run along it to steer the bus. This route connects Cambridge with St Ives. Well it would if it had not been closed indefinitely for significant upgrade works,

And finally today we arrived at the third and final lock just before St Ives. This lock, like several on this part of the river has a wider central part than the actual gates. This means that two boats can use it at the same time. 

It has a mechanised guillotine gate at the bottom and mired gates at the top which are manually operated.

Soon after we reached the old part of St Ives. Although there is supposed to be a Town Mooring, it is not very long and high above the river. One boat was already moored there alongside a set of steps from boat to street level, However, there was no way that we could see of getting off the boat on the remaining section so we pressed on as we knew that there were alternatives ahead.

We were also keen to use a water point as there is no other before arrival into Buckden Marina. Our map did indicate water at the end of a very short arm which we gingerly explored. Indeed there was but the mooring here was quite high not so high as in the town. This stretch of riverside is known as The Waits. We tied up and filled with water, We quickly came to the conclusion that this was perhaps the best we could get for tonight and still get to Godmanchester by lunchtime tomorrow. We have a date for dinner but more of that another time!

It seems that this was once a busy commercial wharf where boats would wait to load or unload but experts say that the prigina of the name is 'obscure'. Its present very pleasant aspect is due in part to the creation of the flood wall in the early part of the twentieth century. (Try to get pix later . . . but getting on and off our boat is non trivial exercise)

10.9 Miles - 3 Locks

Aldreth

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse (in part aka Old West River)

We began early but with only 100m cruise - backwards! The water and elsan facilities were just a short distance back towards the railway bridge and we were keen to start the next long section, with very limited facilities, with a full water tank and all cassettes empty!

A while later we were ready to make a proper start, with Lincoln Bridge the first landmark. In fact it was just metres from where we had spent the last two days.  No real noise from it as it is only an access to the marina and vehicles have to stop and unlock a gate in the middle, so no racing through!

There are more visitor mooring opportunities further along - here close to the Maltings building, now adapted as a events venue.

A second entrance into Cathedral Marina.

The Waterside Inn is now a four star hotel close to yet more visitor moorings convenient fre the city centre.

After this the riverside is all private moorings with a diverse set of boats including this leviathan (or at least in comparison with the rest of us!)

Ely High Bridge was built as part of the first city bypass completed in 1986 but the southern part went over this bridge and then close to the city centre before really becoming a bypass.

The inevitable result was that congestion continued to be a problem and in 2003 serious consideration was give to building another bridge. The Southern Bypass was completed about 8 years ago  after a number of attempts that were foiled by planning objections.

This might be out last look back at the cathedral on this trip. We will of course have this view when we return in a few weeks time.

Soham Lode was one of the last major drains to be dug in this area, probably opening in the 1790s. Its main use, apart from drainage, was to carry corn and later coal when the pumping engines changed to steam power. When a railway arrived, the freight traffic all but disappeared. It is now officially not navigable but occasional forays are made by adventurous narrowboaters!

At Popes Corner the navigation divides into two. The larger part, straight ahead in this view, becomes the River Cam whilst the right hand continues as the River Great Ouse on towards Bedford.

The speed limit now changes from 7 to 4 mph with threats for those caught speeding. the river is now not only narrower but also much shallower so we immediately found our speed dropping from about 4 to 2.5. We suspect that most of the cruisers do have a means of determining their rate of progress. Several overtook us and at least one did so without our consent or notice. They were very lucky as there are few places where this would not lead to them getting into difficulty, potentially grounding on the offside. Others we waved through after find a spot with most width and then bringing ourselves to a stop or drifting over the shallower waters in a gap in the reeds. Even then, one nearly managed to collide with us!

Streetham Old Engine is an impressive landmark and is the sole survivor of hundreds of steam engines that were installed to pump drainage waters. This one dates from around 1831. Unfortunately it is only open to the public on Sundays in the season. Shame as it would be interesting to visit and there is a good mooring right outside.

Immediately after the next bridge came a very long line of moored boats on both banks, many of which are clearly permanent homes. We speculated on how they cope given that there seem to be no basic facilities in the area. Quite a  few obviously do not move much as they are now locked in by rapidly growing reed beds.

There are two moorings or boatyards at Streetham Ferry. The second one is clearly still quite active in building or repairing boats. Lazy Otter is just a set of moorings just off the A10.

Some people will to to any lengths to find a drink - this one even comes with bar snacks! (He just stopped munching as the camera clicked)

After letting one cruiser pass us we took too long to get back onto the centre line and were caught on the silt for a few moments. Luckily we freed ourselves just in time as another cruiser came at speed the opposite way, all but hidden on a sharp bend. Here a larger silt bed is clearly marked - good thing as it would otherwise have been our side to navigate.

A family day out at the riverside! It looks as though two aunts have joined the fun. If only we could all go for a dip without first donning swim wear!

A little further we arrived at our planned destination for our stopover: GOBA's members only Aldreth Drain mooring. There was just one boat already moored but plenty of room for more.

  

12.0 Miles - 0 Locks

Shopping and Dinner in Ely

We stayed a second night in Ely principally to do some shopping. IN the morning we walked to the nearby Sainsbury for a larger top up. Not a lot as we return home early next week and do not want to have too much to carry with us.

After lunch we walked up the hill to the main market place. Christine wanted to visit Mountain Warehouse and a few other inexpensive clothes shops. (But hot weather things now will almost certainly bring and end to the heat waves) n the end her prized purchase was from an excellent Sue Ryder shop. Good quality and probably unused. Mike, on the other hand, succumbed to a browse at Grape Tree and came away with rather a heavier load in his rucksack than he aimed for.

On the way up the hill we called at a Turkish restaurant that we had come across via Google Maps. Its web site looked very attractive and the menu rather more interesting than the burgers and pizzas in almost everywhere else we browsed. 

We booked for 7 pm and, after a chance to recover from earlier activity we returned - thankfully only at the bottom of the hill. The experience was one of the best for a long time. The serv ice was just right - attentive but not oppressive. Christine had Lamb Guvech in Oven* whilst Mike opted for Creamy Chicken in Oven**. Both of us felt well sa tisfied. The meal came with some very tasty flat breads to start with and three good dips, and at the end there was a portion of water melon to cool the palate and finally some Turkish Delight. 

To accompany we had a full bottle of Yakut, a very pleasant red that went well with both of our dishes. Yes, we finished it all and walked safely back to the boat! To cap it all, the final bill was most reasonable.

0 Miles - 0 Locks

* Diced lamb, mix peppers, onions, garlic, mushrooms, tomatoes cooked in oven. Served with rice and couscous

**Marinated chicken, green peppers, mushrooms, onions, double cream, with mature cheddar cheese cooked in oven. Served with rice and couscous

Ely

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

Our aim today was quite short - to get to Ely early enough to bag a good mooring spot! We also were in dire need of accessing an elsan disposal facility. The weather was forecast to be overcast until lunch time - although we found the forecast kept pushing back the arrival of the sunshine as readily as if it were an entitled pop star!

We left our mooring at Littleport, just beyond Sandhill Bridge. This might at one time have been a busy route into the small town but all the traffic on the A10 is now routed away to the north. This bridge carries just local traffic - it is about a kilometre to the small collection of shops.

This imposing house dominates the entrance into the River Lark, yet another tributary that is navigable for about 10 miles to Jude's Ferry. We went that way in 2018.

After about half an hour we caught our first glimpse of Ely Cathedral, appearing much smaller on the horizon  than this highly zoomed photo suggests! As the land is flat except for the small rise (well. not so small when walking up it!) on which the cathedral stands, it is a highly visible landmark for a large area.

This bridge is named Queen Adelaide Bridge - the eponymous hamlet is alongside the river at this point. According to Wikipedia, Queen Adelaide is a hamlet on the River Great Ouse in the Fens about 1+1⁄2 miles northeast of Ely, Cambridgeshire, England. The hamlet is named after a pub, which in turn was named after the British queen Adelaide of Saxe-Meiningen.

A bridge carrying a railway line from Thetford to Ely follows immediately. This line is not electrified unlike that to King's Lynn. 

The EA Queen Adelaide Moorings are yet another casualty of the easy way in which the maintenance responsibility of the Environment Agency is being eroded. Our record from 2018 shows them then being in good condition.

A narrow entrance belies a large country park - Boswell Pits - that is just beyond, a 20 acre nature reserve, predominantly water.

The wide and straight section of river that we had just cruised along is excellent. So it is no surprise that there are two substantial rowing clubs just before our arrival at Ely: Isle of Ely and Cambridge University Boat Clubs.

We then arrived at the waterside in Ely with a service facility at the first end. With some relief we found that the elsan is still(?) operational albeit needing the user to lift a full cassette quite high up. It seems surprising that there are not better standards for the construction of such facilities that take into account users' physical needs.

Whilst there were a good number of boats on the 2 day visitor moorings opposite the marina, we could see several spaces. Christine did a reconnaissance and selected what seemed to be the best, still on the edge of a green open space, rather than outside one of the several pubs a little further on.

During the afternoon we did a good bit more cleaning especially after the harvest mist from Sandhill! Christine continued to collect the dust inside whilst Mike tackled the bow and stern decks. Both tasks took us up to 4 o'clock and time for a mug of tea before changing clothes for our next target.

Having failed miserably to find church services the last three Sundays we thought we would walk up to the cathedral for Sung Evensong. Here, it is somewhat later than in many cathedrals : 5.30.

We left in good time and although the climb seemed to take for ever, we were more than early. This gave us a chance to look around the inside and the huge space that it provides.

This statue by David Wynne is called Mary Magdalene Recognises Jesus "captures the moment then a distraught Mary recognises Jesus on the morning of the resurrection. The figures are so thin it is though everything has been stripped from them except the core of their being."

The service was being sung by a visiting choir, we think predominantly from Buckinghamshire but some members had travelled quite some way to be here. When we arrived they were still having their final rehearsal and it was not until they had finished that we were admitted to the choir section of the cathedral - with its view of the high altar beyond.

Two more views taken from where we were sitting in the back row of the Choir Stalls (the ones not being used by the choir - theirs were the ones with lit candles!)

The Magnificat was a special setting by Stanford using the words in Latin. It was an expansive approach to capturing the sense of the original words. It was longer than most settings so the congregation were allowed to sit through it (cathedrals normally expect the whole congregation to stand during the Magnificat and the Nunc Dimittis) Stanford was also the composer of the Nunc Dimittis setting, this time in English. The main section - which are the words said to have been said by the aging priest Simeon, used only the tenor and bass voices but the whole choir then came together for the Gloria. Overall, even if the role of the congregation is to sit or stand and to absorb the experience, it was an uplifting one and well worth the effort of the uphill climb

By the time we had walked back down to the river the promised sun had arrived, giving us a glorious end to the day.

4.9 Miles - 0 Locks