Islip Mill

Today's Navigation : River Nene

It was a bright sunny morning as we awoke. We were ready to leave the Cruising Club mooring not long after nine but then Mike spotted that there was a tap just about in reach of an extended hose. Yesterday's washing load meant that we were down to a quarter on our tank gauge and there have been rumours about the next water point being out of service, possible the next two. So it seemed rather sensible to fill up whilst we could!

It was just after 10 when we eventually cast off - not bad as it was a reasonably fast water supply. The road beside the marina passes over a bridge and immediately beyond is Upper Barnwell Lock.

This lock is right beside Oundle Mill. This 17C former mill was until recently a quality restaurant but it was sold in 2021 (asking price £1.2 million) and is now the showroom for a high-end kitchens.

We thought that today's locks would be straightforward but the first two offered a new twist: the top gates just would not stay closed long enough to allow Mike to get back to the control box and initiate the emptying. 

This lock had an added complication as the upper lock landing was fully occupied by two weed cutting boats.

For some time we could see Pilton Church across the fields. This site gives a much better picture of both church and the manor house alongside - the photographer had the advantage of being on a walk nearby! (The line across the second photo is a power line that stayed in the line of sight for all the time we could see the church)

On the opposite bank is the 100 room  Lilford Hall, built originally in 1495. It has been through many restorations and developments, at one time being owned by a family much involved in the founding of the US. The house is of great interest to visiting Americans! The current owners are dedicated to a major restoration that will ensure its survival for at least the next 200 years (nearly as long as the US has been in existence) Riverside vegetation means that there is no clear view of the building from the water.

The picturesque Lilford Bridge heralds our arrival at the next lock.

The top gates here offered even more of a challenge, so much so that Christine had to come to Mike's aid.

The house alongside the lock has clearly had a lot of work done on it and more is in progress, A builder was working on the structure to the very right of the photo that looks as if it is to be a set of three garages.

The next prominent church is in the village of Achurch. The very tiny village has been occupied since the Iron Age, according to Wikipedia. The unusual and intriguing name for the village is said to derive from Asa's church after a place called Aas-kirk said to mean Church by the Water.

At Wadenhoe Lock we met a single handed boat just coming out (not sure how he will cope at his next lock!) - this was only the third boat to pass us since Peterborough. Just after we had entered the lock and closed the guillotine gate than a small cruiser arrived. Although we tried to persuade them that we could re-open and let them in to share they were uncertain about the space available and simply helped us through. The added bonus was that the lady firmly insisted that she would close up after us so, for once, we got away quickly!

Our trip plan showed us staying the night at the FOTRN Pear Tree Farm mooring but on the way from the last lock we decided that it was such a brilliant day that we would take advantage and press on through one more lock and then moor at Islip Mill, where we stopped on the way down.

Titchmarsh Lock is accompanied now by not only the former mill but also a private marina, home to Middle Nene Cruising Club. Its web site makes it very clear that its facilities are definitely Members Only. (We met one or two members at Oundle Cruising Club)

A notice inside the control box advised navigators to take care when closing the guillotine gate and ensure that it really is down, holding the button extra long even after it appears to have stopped. The explanation is that a new form of actuator at the bottom has been installed and is taking time to settle in. It also looked as if there was a bit of a leak at the top end as well. The only impact, it said, is that passage through the lock might take a little longer.

However, we did not find any real issue and it may have been that top end leak that kept the ponting doors closed whilst we went to empty the lock, so no delay on that account!

We then had an even pleasanter three quarter hour cruise down to Islip Mill where the splendid mooring was entirely empty! As it was now well after two o'clock and lunch beckoned, we tied up as quickly as we could! 

A restful afternoon was slightly tinged by the news that Brinklow Marina is now full and so we will have to find some other place for our winter mooring, but that is still complicated as we do not know when some of  the intervening closures will be lifted. The routes to several of our preferred alternatives (mainly Aquavista) are still blocked by closures as the result of water shortages.

8.7 Miles - 4 Locks

Half a Car Shuffle

At the club BBQ last night, Mike was persuaded that, with the offer of a lift to the X4 bus stop, he would bring the car from Fox Narrowboats in March to here. There is a good bus service from Northampton so it will take much less time when we eventually know more about how we will 'escape' from the Nene.

When the lift arrived, he unexpectedly said that he would take Mike directly to Peterborough Station rather than the bus stop! It was a very interesting half hour journey as he seems to know quite a bit about the back story with the marina, especially as it is apparently now up for sale. According to Rightmove the current owner is asking for just under £5 million for it, after having found it harder to re-develop than when he obtained planning permission for just that. (Note that the agents photos are how the owner imagined it might look after wholesale redevelopment - it is not yet like that!) We hope that in any negotiations, the Cruising Club is able to continue, at least in its present site as the priceless friendliness that the club engender should not be lost, it is all too rare.

At Peterborough Mike bought his train ticket for the short hop to March - the train runs from there to Stansted Airport via Ely and Cambridge and was certainly busy today.

At March Station the taxi that Mike had booked was ready and waiting. The town of March seemed much larger than we had perhaps taken it to be. After being dropped at the marina entrance, Mike prepared the car for the return trip. After our unplanned tour of the countryside a week ago, the battery was down to 61% so a call at an EV station was scheduled. Mike had picked out a couple, just in case there was no room at the nearest. He entered the details into the satnav and set off - about 30 minutes away. There were only two charging points - Instavolt are usually a bit more substantial, but Mike forgot to check for setting off! In any case, both were free although the other was taken soon after.

Setting up to charge went as smoothly as it usually is with both Instabolt and Gridserve - not all are like that! However, it does seem that the charging companies are gradually getter better and being more reliable in the user interface.

The main 'attraction' on the site, in the middle of an industrial estate, is a large drive thru McDonalds. There was a steady stream of cars arriving to place their orders, collected shortly after from another part of the system.

Despite feeling that it was time for lunch, Mike did not fancy a burger but there was also a Subway. It is a long time since Mike had patronised a Subway so he had to take a few moments to come to terms with the fifty million options available (a typical New Testament hyperbole!) but is was certainly more than the typical Meal Deal range. A cheerful young lass served him patiently and soon had the chosen roll ready to be taken back to the car to eat whilst checking on charging progress,

It did not seem long before the charge level has reached 95% and Mike decided to unplug and continue the journey. It was only 27 minutes from there back to the marina where Christine had been cleaning, phoning possible stopping points if the Northampton Arm takes longer to let us through (and also to keep our place for a winter mooring) She also wrote a reference for a member of staff from many years back. Changes in the way in which these documents are prepared and returned meant that she had to await Mike's return to sort out he finer detail!

After a recovery break and a change of clothes Mike faced up to the real challenge of the day - emptying three elsan cassettes and a similar number of bags of rubbish. One of the complications of cruising this river is the distances between such disposal options, made worse by the closure of the installation on Peterborough Embankment. Let's hope that the one at Wellingborough has not suffered a similar fate since we used iot on the way down. At least we could use the car to take everything from the boat club to the other end of the marina!

A nap and a mug of tea followed but all too soon it was time to set about preparing the roast meal for tonight.

0 Miles - 0 Locks (so no photos - did not think you want one of the disposal facilities!)

Oundle Cruising Club

Today's Navigation : River Nene

Today was supposed to be find with warm temperatures towards the latter part of the day. Alas, the bit the forecast left out was a long spell of very light drizzle!

Our overnight mooring was at Fotheringhay and with all of the mooring space to choose from, we managed to find perhaps the best bit, next to the memorial stone (Mary Queen of Scots, Richard III and all that) The bank was low and the water had enough depth to allow us right alongside. The village is directly ahead in the picture and the castle mound is to the right.

Despite waking late we managed to be away by 9.30. The church in the village is most imposing - alas we had neither time nor energy to go and take a look.

As we passed, a rare gap in the cloud allowed the sun to catch the weather vane on the tower and shine brightly. (This very zoomed photo does not really do it justice)

We knew that the third lock today would be manually operated but we were uncertain about the first, Perio. (Our list was at least one short so we also knew that there was to be one surprise somewhere! Yes, you guessed, it was here). As usual, the guillotine was open and when we came to close it after the boat had come in and made safe, the gate dropped most of the way on its own. 

As the lock was filling, a groundsman from the adjoining fishing lake complex came by on his ride on mower. He stopped for a chat and then offered to give Mike some help with opening the gate after the boat had exited. (He is himself a boater) In fact he told Mike to get on board as he would close up for us!

Approaching Tansor, a very small river-side village, we noted this splendid and huge house, seemingly a modern development of the Manor Farm. at least there is little doubt about which century it belongs to!

Next along, this once splendid boat house is now neglected and in some disrepair.

Close to the church is what appears to be a modern rowing club complete with launch ramp for eights boats. However, we could not see any name (nor on any of our maps) and there seemed to be little sign of life.

On the opposite bank is Cotterstock with a substantial church. Whilst it looks much larger than one might expect for such a small village (pop 210 in 2011 census) it was at one time home to one of the largest Collegiate Churches in the country, The Collegiate closed in 1536.

In today's modern church arrangements, most rural churches are grouped together (a benefice) under a single full time priest. Mostly when there are two separated by a river they of necessity belong to different groups. However, here there is a bridge and a road between the two villages of Tansor and Cotterstock so they are grouped along with three other parishes including that at Fotheringhay.

We were expecting Cotterstock Lock to be mechanised and were not disappointed. Getting to the point at which Christine could steer our boat out of the lock towards the upper lock landing, was quite efficient. However, a combination of strong wind and river bywash current meant that it was all but impossible to turn the sharp corner onto the upper landing. It took us some time to escape from the trap!

We were now heading towards Oundle and the parish church spire was visible almost as soon as we left Cotterstock Lock. However, the river then takes a large loop to the south of the town, never really getting close.

The old Oundle North Bridge is said to be over 450 years old but as it carried what is now a busy trunk road, it was replaced in that role by a nearby concrete structure. But we were surprised by just how busy the old bridge was - however the main road out of the town still crosses the old bridge, joining the A605 immediately after.

The main bypass bridge dates from 1980s although the A605 was built in a succession of projects that tinkered with the route.

We expected that Ashton Lock would be manual - it was - but surprised us by having the guillotine gate in the down position. Unsure how to leave the lock, we left as found with the gate still down.

On the next stretch we passed this sort-of houseboat. We noticed it briefly on our way down but this time took a closer look and it did not appear to be fitted out as living space. It does seem to be in active use but there was no-one around.

And so to the last lock today: Lower Barnwell. It was as expected mechanised but again we arrived to a closed guillotine gate. This time there was a Navigation Notice posted inside the control box telling navigators to leave the bottom gate closed for reasons to do with water shortage. Unfortunately in this case the vee doors (mitred gates at the top end) are not well balanced and quickly open themselves whenever the lock is full. Mike had to summon Christine to help keep them closed whilst he hastened to the controls to start the emptying process.

We had arranged to moor tonight alongside Oundle Cruising Club, just outside the marina. However, they were having a fishing competition today so we were asked not to arrive before 3.30. With just a little time in hand we stayed on the upper lock landing until it was time to move forward.

Club members were most welcoming and readily helped us moor up. We also decided to join their last BBQ of the season (instead of cooking for ourselves!) The club members, especially the Commodore and Vice Commodore, but the prize goes to the chap who maintains their website and is known as a fountain of knowledge. He came up with a plan for us to collect the car from March tomorrow, leave it here and stay a second night on their mooring. He even offered to ferry Mike to the nearest bus stop for the X4 to Peterborough.

7.0 Miles - 4 Locks

Fotheringhay

Today's Navigation : River Nene

The day started really bright with clear sky - the breeze was almost non existent. Alas by midday various amounts of cloud had taken over and late in the afternoon the breeze had turned into a howling gale (or so it felt!)

We were away just after 9 and had almost an hour of level cruising before having to tackle a lock. We passed Stibbington Boatyard.

Just after we passed this obelisk. In 2018 we completely failed to find any reference to it but we can now see that is in the Orchards, the grounds of Stibbington Hall (see).

After the two 20C road bridges, each carrying one carriageway of the A1, we arrived at the much older Wansford Bridge. This was the original river crossing by the A1 and was last rebuilt at the very end of the 18C.

Under the main arch, three women were preparing to go swimming in the river. This place is listed as a wild swimming location (see)

But cruising on a river cannot last forever without a lock or two! (Four today) The first was Wansford where we gradually refined our uphill technique (taken from the Stanground lock keeper)

The smallest of signs made sure that we took the right course just before Yarwell Lock.

Today this weir allows excess water from the river to flow down and around Yarwell Lock. According to the OS map, it was once the natural course of the River Nene.

Footbridges are rare on the Nene and this one has the odd name of Duck Street Footbridge, taking its name from a street in the nearby small village of Elton. An account of a walk taken by someone a few years ago showed that it had been closed on the grounds that it was unsafe. However, it seems that it has now been repaired and is back in use.

Shortly after comes the Elton Road Bridge - making life easier for the small community of liveaboard boards just downstream.

The last lock of today was a bit of  a test: Warmington Lock still has a manual wheel. The gate almost dropped on its way down but needed a helping hand for the last metre. Raising at the end was another matter!

It was by now rather late for lunch so we tied up on the upper lock landing, banking on nothing else coming through whilst we had our lunch. As expected nothing did come - we passed two boats on their way downstream a little earlier but they were the first since we re-joined the river days ago.

We did not stay too long not only in case someone arrived but also as we were in danger of becoming too rooted to the spot if we waited any longer!

Moving on, the breeze was by now definitely a brisk wind, making conditions not quite so pleasant for river cruising. It was about a mile to Fotheringhay where we came to land on the pay-for moorings. We were just a little surprised that no-one else was there as the associated camping areas was quite busy with folk setting up alongside their parked camper vans.

9.2 Miles - 4 Locks (One wheel)

Wansford Station

Today's Navigation : River Nene

We were rather later leaving today than usual - we awoke late and also Mike had a longish phone call to make as Waterways Chaplain. It was nearly eleven before we exited from the country park, back on to the Nene.

The hire boat left early, even before we awoke so it was a lonely picture as we crossed the lake. The trip boat looks stranded in mid water but we did just see a small dinghy alongside the landing stage where, presumably, passengers embark.

 

The country park was created in 1978 by the then Peterborough Development Corporation which oversaw the expansion of the city in that decade by almost 100%. Ferry Meadows itself was created as a gravel pit, providing the extensive materials needed for the rapid expansion. (see)

We assume that once the gravel working had ceased, part of the country park development was to dig the entrance channel to connect with the River Nene. From inside the park there is no sign for the exit and it is all but camouflaged by the trees. It was only at the last moment that we could be sure we were heading the right way!

After a brief shower as we were setting off, the day turned quickly to something special. It was warm, not quite as breezy and with lots of sunshine and blue skies - the clouds added to the picture and never looked likely to turn to rain.

After a short distance we came under Milton Ferry Bridge, built in 1716 by the then Earl Fitzwilliam on a spot that was once Gunners Wade Ferry. The bridge charged tolls up until 1964.

And so to the first of two locks we aimed to work today: Alwalton. Everything was much as expected until we came to leave. After the fun and games yesterday with the wind an a lock landing, Christine asked Mike to tie up to the upper landing before going back to empty the lock and raise the gate. It proved not easy to come alongside the landing but it was not until we finally tried to leave that we found that the boat was very firmly stuck on some underwater obstruction less than a metre out from the edge. It took a long time to work free. We were on the brink of calling for help!

A little further and we passed Peterborough Cruising Club, another in-line mooring mainly for river cruisers. It is smaller than the Yacht Club we passed yesterday, which probably does not like to be confused with its lesser rival!

Across the fields we could see a large house, Castor Mill and the remains of a windmill. The house dates from the early 19C and was built as a mill and miller's house. Once that function ceased it was much adapted as a more conventional residence. We are not certain but it is possible that recently it has been bought and changed into a non-residential purpose. 

Alongside are the remains of a windmill known as Black Dike Mill and dates from around the same time as the house. Better pictures can be found here.

Large mills were obviously once very common - we noted this one at Water Meadows Lock on our way down.

The lock itself is much the same as others on this river but we are still working out the best way to operate them to minimise the amount of walking around the lock from one side to the other.

The landscape around this river is very different from the Great Ouse - the land is generally equally flat but it is more naturally like that (and as the result of long establish agriculture, of course) There are rarely any of the high banks that accompany the drainage works of the Middle Level and much of the Great Ouse valley.

We could see the Nene Valley Railway and Wansford Station from some distance but trees hid the visitor mooring until almost the last moment. It was therefore with a really great sigh of relief that we found it entirely unoccupied. It is a long way from here to Fotheringhay, the next known place to moor overnight. (no new pictures but see our earlier visit)

6.2 Miles - 2 Locks