Peterborough

Today's Navigation : River Nene

In comparison with yesterday, this morning was if anything colder, greyer and windier! But only by a margin. For once we were away before our mooring companions, leaving Wansford Station before the first train of the day.

All three locks left for us to do are electrified - a welcome bonus for the end of this section of our cruise. Water Newton Lock is next to the pretty church although at present rampant willow means that there is not so much to see from the lock side.

This photo shows that the water level above the lock was noticeably higher than the level set by the v doors. This meant that Mike had to push extra hard to get them to open a crack, after which it was straightforward.

Below the lock stands the substantial former mill, driven we assume by the flow of the river. It is now converted into residential use, it looks as if there are six independent dwellings.

There are two large boat clubs between here and yesterday, Peterborough and, along with one we saw yesterday, all have confusingly similar names. This one is Peterborough Cruising Club. In essence they all offer fairly basic moorings almost entirely for GRP river cruisers, most of which testify to the durability of their construction material.

We passed under another railway bridge that forms part of the Nene Valley Railway. With the large loops and turns of the river, it can sometimes be a surprise to work out which way the line is going! Here, the start of the line is to the left and Wansford to the right.

The elegant Milton Ferry Bridge has three arches but no indication which one is for navigation. Yes, it is usually safe to assume the middle one, but not always. The large clump of reeds under the one to the left of the photo at least reduces the odds by a third! It was once part of the large Milton Park estate on the north side, serving a substantial house named Ferry House but we believe that it is now the club house for a golf course.

With a name Bluebell Bridge it is a shame that the reality is so prosaic but it seems to have taken its name from an eponymous wood close by.

It is part of the Ferry Meadows Country Park - the entrance by boat is a few metres downstream.

This the Peterborough Yacht Club - we warned you that the names were easily mixed up. We spotted a couple of EA staff completing a licence check on the club's moored boats - we pointed out where ours was!

The section after the club house has small summer houses associated with each mooring.

Orton Lock is the last on the river that we shall  passing through. (There is one final one, Dog-in-a-Doublet, beyond Peterborough but beyond that the river is tidal) Orton has a substantial sluice controlled weir alongside. 

Peterborough has two north-south bypasses and this is the one to the west of the city.

Thorpe Meadows is home to a collection of outdoor pieces of art and part of the larger Peterborough Sculpture Collection. Its website says of this one that is close to the river:

Festival Boat was commissioned from the artist (Douglas Sokari Camp) as part of the final ‘Festival of Sculpture’ in 1989 which marked the end of the Development Corporation in Peterborough. This large scale artwork rests on the bank of the River Nene in Thorpe Meadows and takes as its inspiration from its location and the festival boats used ceremonially in the artist’s native Nigeria.

Every so often, on both canals and rivers, something catches the eye that is less than obvious but which on investigation has quite story to tell. Little remain of former abutments on either side of the river. However, older OS maps reveal that there was once a footbridge here, with, on the south side, a Ferry Boat Inn, close to a Basket Works and school. Nothing of those buildings now remains, replaced some tiome ago by and undistinguished small industrial estate. However, the former footpath right of way still exists and runs along a tarmac road call Wharf Road. A picture of the pub exists - see here.

On the way into the centre of the city there are five bridges, the second of which is at the start of the Nene Valley Railway.

The last, and in a way the oldest, is London Road Bridge. the recent version was completed in 1934 but there has been a crossing for centuries.

We moored as close as we could to the London Road Bridge end of the long embankment as we needed to do a substantial re-stock of our food cupboards, fridge and freezer! The only supermarket near to the river is Asda which is just a few minutes walk from where we moored. Before lunch we locked up and managed the larger part of Christine's list which our fold up trolley helped make the return journey feasible! Potatoes, milk, fruit juice and some veg are very heavy!

After lunch, Mike returned to the store for the shorter, updated list of mainly lighter items all of which easily fitted into the trolley.

We started the day with a plan to have a rest day tomorrow, moored on the embankment but, as we have found in the past, this is not the most attractive of waterfronts, not helped by hordes of people feeding the wildlife. By the time Mike had completed the second shopping trip, we were both of a mind to move on. Firstly this meant calling Stanground Lock at the start of the Middle Level to see if passage tomorrow was possible (24 hours notice is normally requested) We are now booked in at 11 am.

It was by now a pleasant afternoon and we unmoored around 3.45 to see if we  could find a better stopover for tonight. We did this on our visit visit here but things can change in 16 years!

Just a little distance and we passed what we believe to be the start of the construction of a new footbridge over the river. Work only began in June and Cygnet Bridge is expected to open in a year.

Then under the Frank Perkins Bridge, effectively the eastern bypass. (see here for some background info)

We passed the entrance to the Middle Level and went a short distance towards the Dog-in-a-Doublet but not far enough to see it. (It is over four miles of largely straight man made river)

The initial mooring opportunities were occupied by boats that a[[pear top be here long term. This is a phenomenon that has mushroomed in man parts of the navigable waters since 2018) We then kept passing mooring rings but only one at a time (boats are better moored with at least two!) Eventually we spotted two close together - which like buses turned out to be three! This cannot be described as the most interesting mooring we have ever used but at least it is away from the mountain of goose and duck poo! 

Stanground is only about half an hour away, even allowing time to turn around so no early rise needed tomorrow. Bet we still wake at 5 out of recent habit!

9.2 Miles - 3 Locks

Wansford Station

Today's Navigation : River Nene

The day began on a very different note from the past couple of weeks. As well as being completely overcast sky and a strong breeze, if not wind, which meant that we felt somewhat chilly to start today's cruise.

Casting off - remember the problems we had yesterday when mooring? - was generally less fraught, despite the timid approach Mike made when crossing the gangplank! (No, you cannot see a photo!) Even though it was about 8:15, three other boats had already left the mooring, with only ourselves the late birds.

As we arrived at our first lock, a cruiser was tied up on the lock landing but the doors were open and the guillotine closed. It transpired that they were trying to correct some mechanical fault so we were able to go straight in. This was the last of the manual (Wheel!) locks but not only was this the smoothest but also the lady from the cruiser came to assist. Guess what, Mike forgot to take most of the usual pix at this lock. Will have to try harder on the return trip.

However he did note the unusual more formal bywash, running quite fast it seems. The very friendly people on the cruiser assured us that this was the last manual lock before Peterborough. Phew!

Next came Elton Lock. Some the very varied lists of manual Nene Locks suggested that this was still manual but, cheers, it is indeed electric.

Just after passing the village of Nassington we passed through the remains of the abutments for a former railway bridge. Not quite That railway but the Rugby and Peterborough branch line. Back on 30th April, we noted the start of the Rugby to Stanford railway, similarly closed by Beeching. Both were early developments from the 1840s. After it was first opened and had proven its success, its directors decided to link to Peterborough and joined up with the other line for the final section in to the town. They joined at Yarwell Junction,. now the western end of the Nene Valley Railway.

Yarwell Lock followed and, unusually, has a very good water point accessible only when on the upper lock landing!

The lock is alongside the former Yarwell Mill, still looking imposing. Beside that is  a large residential mobile home park aimed at people over 45, but it seemed to have a few pitches for touring vans.

The downside at this lock was the exit to the lower lock landing. As can be seen in the above photo, a long boat comes straight out into the remains of a concrete landing and a large tree, It took Christine some effort to avoid both! Short cruisers might have sufficient room to turn sharply right as they exit.

Our final lock today (or so it turned out) was Wansford Lock. A large sluice controlled weir was built just where an upper lock landing might be expected. Instead, boats stop a distance back from the lock on a sharp bend with no sightline of the lock. Still, it is electric so we can forgive most things! Christine took a punt on when to leave the landing, had to wait a little while for the lock to finish filling but then came in without touching either side. Surprisingly, the name board here, and at Yarwell, has a black background whilst all the others before have a white one. New styling?

Wansford has three bridges. The first, the most splendid in appearance, dates from about 1600 and carried the Great North Road. It has a total of 12 arches but most were too camera shy.

By the early part of the 20C it was increasingly a bottleneck and a new bypass was built in 1928 with the bridge constructed in the new fashion of mass concrete. The names of the local highway authorities on each bank are indented into the structure.

That too became insufficient and another crossing opened in 1975 to carry a southbound carriageway, leaving the earlier bypass to provide for northbound vehicles.

Wansford Pumping Station tales water from the Nene and transports it to Rutland Water 12 miles north west for drinking supplies.

Stibbington Boatyard is a recent development where there was previously a boat builder P W Buckle. We could not see any sign of the boatyard and the rest of the development seemed to be in an uncertain state. However, other than a short reference to OwnerShips Google yielded little evidence. Anyone know more?

And so to Wansford Station where we planned to stop at least for lunch if not longer. If we could find a space, that is. Just before passing under the Nene Valley railway bridge we could see that the whole of the short pontoon was free. But then, as we were almost alongside we realised that a boat coming the other way was heading to the same pontoon. We both took it gingerly as the space is limited but the other boat, a vintage sea going vessel, was much shorter and we both fitted comfortably, albeit with no space to spare!

By now we had decided to stay here tonight as the next possible mooring, Ferry Meadows, is at least 2.5 hours away. It was certainly our fall back if we could not moor at Wansford Station and offers a lot more pontoon room.

There was no regular service on the Nene Valley today - yesterday would have felt very different! However, they were running a series of special Deltic No 55009 Alycidon Driving Experience sessions - 1 hour on the footplate at £450 per person (Only two allowed on any trip) 

Late afternoon Mike walked up to the station and took a series of photos. Let them speak for themselves!

The main station building dates from 1885 but designed to reflect the style of the times when the line opened 150 years earlier. (The extension on the left came in 2011)

9.4 Miles - 4 Locks

Fotheringhay

Today's Navigation : River Nene

When we awoke the sky was very grey with universal overcast clouds.

But by the time we were pushing away from the pontoon and coming out of the marina entrance, signs of blue sky were just beginning to show.

Very soon we arrived at Lower Barnwwell Lock which had been electrified. This was fortunate as there was a notice in the control cabinet asking boaters to leave the guillotine gate closed, normally to be raised. This change was only introduced a few days ago and is intended to help with low water levels in the next reach.

By the time we had left the lock and rejoined the main river stream, the sky as very blue but with some interesting streaked cloud patterns.

The A605 - effectively the Oundle Bypass - crosses the river at a point where it follows the former railway line (yes, that one again!) and although the main span is new and concrete, the approach utilises the old rail viaduct built from bricks.

In the middle of nowhere (plenty of those in these parts!) we passed this floating structure. No doubt it is classed as a houseboat but essentially a shed on a pontoon! Its occupants access by car across the adjoining field.

Ashton Lock, sadly, is still manual but although quite hard work, definitely smoother than the three previous ones. We chatted to a man who arrived at the lock through a hidden gate and fence. It turned out that not only does he and his wife live on a boat on the short arm above the lock, but also they own the surrounding land.

Nearing Cotterstock there was an unusually long straight section - mostly this river twists and turns as it finds (and then changes) its route along the wide flood plain.

We shared Cotterstock Lock (thankfully electrified) with a small but wide cruiser which had turned around just after Ashton Lock. They seemed somewhat inexperienced and we are not sure whether they have ever shared before! Fortunately we fitted comfortably as we are not sure what would happen if we pushed the Emergency Stop button in the event that a boat became stuck or hung up on a cill. Once the Raise button is hit it continues the small emptying lift even if the finger is removed. In the main raising phase, taking the finger off the button causes it to stop immediately. Ideally, if a boat gets stuck the best thing is to close down the emptying asap. we missed a photo of the other boat as they were holding back until we had cleared the very short lock landing below.

Another bird box (or whatever!) but this one has a solar input. We wondered if this powered a remote camera or counted how many residents used it.

Cotterstock Church is a little further on and looks worth a visit but, as almost always, no way off the boat anywhere nearby.

We saw Tansor Church just a few hundred metres later but close up it is entirely hidden by trees. It is also a long way from Cotterstock - by road or by foot!

The small boat also joined us at Perio Lock which is yet another manual lock. Despite prompting from Christine they did not attempt to lend Mike some assistance with the gate opening.

We were surprised to spot a FOTRN mooring called Fir Trees. It is not on any of our lists so perhaps it is quite new. It is barely a boat's length, but otherwise looks useful.

Suddenly, as we rounded yet another bend, Fotheringhay Church popped up on the horizon. 

As well as our destination for tonight, we wanted to top up our water tank after a load of laundry as we were coming along. This proved extremely difficult to get ashore and connect the hosepipe = remarkably unsafe to access for a public agency. It took us five attempts before we worked out a way to take lines to the mooring posts on the bank.

After that we moved to the section the other side of the bridge. This was almost as fraught. A boat had already moored right in the middle - it later transpired that this was the only place where they could get even close to the bank, let along alongside. However they did assist when we made another approach at a different part of the bank Our gangplank proved necessary to get ashore.

This is a popular spot for water sports - especially at the moment SUPs (except that most of those out today could not quite master the standing up bit!) A while after mooring we realised that we had lost the plastic box used to store our hosepipe, presumably taken by the wind. Just as Mike was transferring stuff out of another box, some passing paddlers came close and Mike asked if they could look lout for it as they passed under the bridge. "You mean, like this one," they said, pointing to another paddle board. They had seen it some distance downstream and thought that they would litter pick as it did not enhance the environment. They were happy to re-unite it with its owner.

Late afternoon, with most of the meal prepare but not cooked, Mike decided, perhaps a little too casually, to take a leap ashore and explore Fotheringhay Castle. We were moored right next to  the memorial stone commemorating the execution of Mary Queen of Scots in 1587 after she had given Elizabeth I cause to think that Mary was about to challenge her regal position and also re-introduce Catholicism as the preferred religious organisation.

All that remains of the once impressive castle is the huge mound, in its day the most defensive military technology available.

As Mike walked around to find the steps up to the top, he spotted this group of thistle and poppy (the latter now past its flowering stage) Both flowers at one time had significance in English and Scottish politics.

After weeks of hot weather, the path to the top was not easy! The steps have been badly eroded and the surface is largely loose fine gravel and hence rather slippery. In the end he made it - but not quite upright until another walked offered him a hand to stand properly!

The view from the top was terrific - at one stage a beautiful red kite flew around the people on the top and at that level, very  close. Its wonderful markings were most clear. (Sorry, the camera missed it all)

Coming back down was even harder! With luck not too many people had to witness Mike's most ungainly scramble backwards! But he did return to the river level in one piece. Alas, by this stage his balance felt decidedly challenged and walking the gangplank unattractive until another walker offered him a stabilising hand! At times it is good to realise just how incredibly helpful can sometimes be, with no asking and no reward.

8.1 Miles - 4 Locks