Kegworth

Today's Navigations : Zouch Cut, River Soar

We awoke to yet another very bight, cloudless day with the forecast that max maximum temperatures might reach 32C.

After feeling very exhausted by the heat yesterday afternoon, we decided to get away as soon as we could manage. Not very early but we did manage to untie by 10 minutes to nine!

A boat had just come up Zouch Lock so we hoped for it to be full but, alas it is rather leaky and the level had dropped next to half full. A single hander arrived a just moments later and he gave us some help to get through. We did take rather longer than we should have as, whilst chatting, we only opened gate paddles on one of the two top gates! He moors at Pillings Marina and reported that, after the shenanigans between CaRT and the original owner of the marina, it is now well established under a new owner who delegates almost everything day-to-day to a manager. This boater had been there for six years so it cannot be bad!

Shortly after the lock we re-joined the River Soar which has been on a trip around the fields with a radial weir to control water levels.

The next stretch is wide, open and very attractive but with few notable  features. Here is the upstream end of Devil's Elbow, a small island where part of the river flows around - but is not navigable that way.

And here is the downstream end.

In some ways, this waterside house is quite ordinary but what caught our eye was the way in which it has developed over time with all sorts of bits added on. What is especially 'stand out' is the patio garden on the garage roof, complete with a greenhouse. And it comes complete with room to moor two river cruisers.

At the point where the A6 and the River almost collide there has been a pub since at least early 19C. The original Navigation was rebuilt more than once and the  present building only dates from 1996. Despite advertising itself as the perfect riverside English country pub, it seems to have turned its back on river trade as none of the earlier moorings is now usable and to get to it from the opposite bank is a very long walk!

Next to the Otter is a set of moorings, mainly for river cruisers, and uses a short stretch of water just away from the river and is part of a series of ponds that appear to be of recent origin as they only appear on modern maps.

The protected 'inland' moorings emerge just downstream - we think we could later see from a distance that moored boats can exit this way.

Christine began to wonder if we needed to drop down any more locks before a stopover and promptly indicated a mooring spot (with good piling to which boats can tie up) just before Kegworth Deep. Mike duly brought our boat alongside into a gap between several wide beam boats already moored there. Alas, we once again demonstrated that most wide beams are much shallower draft than Alchemy. Eventually we managed to make fast even if the stern is a bit too far out to be able to step of easily. The bow is just fine.

We are also directly under the flight path for planes coming in to East Midlands Airport. Although the sound of them flying overhead is noticeable, in practice we could only hear them for a very short time - perhaps less than 30 seconds. The start of the runway is just one mile away so they are below the tree line quite quickly (the airport is not visible from the river)

Across the fields alongside our mooring we can still see the now closed Ratcliffe Power Station, the last operating coal power in the UK. The complete removal of the development will take some years. The first stage is to remove all of the equipment inside the buildings. The more visible work of bringing down the eight cooling towers and the tall chimney is expected in 2029-2030.

This healthy brood of Canada Geese and ducklings were being taught how to scrounge food from boaters. They already seemed to know what to do but also that it is not worth wasting effort on those that show no inclination to throw out good bread to them!

Kegworth village is on the opposite bank, just a short distance further downstream. Despite the tempting sight of the church spire (which we considered as an option for yesterday until we realised that there is no way across from the towpath side until Kegworth Shallow Lock. About a mile and a half on foot) We wrote about The Hermitage in last year's blog.

By the time we moored it was barely ten thirty but here we were to stay the rest of the day, doing as little as the heat would permit!

 

2.4 Miles - 1 Lock

Zouch

Today's Navigations : Loughborough Cut, River Soar, Zouch Cut

Having decided not to pursue our original plan of attending Normanton Church that sits right beside the river, we opted for All Saints, Loughborough Parish Church, a shortish walk from the basin. As the service did not start until 10:45. we had a chance to get up slowly!

As we wa;ked to the church we could hear the bells being rung but only had any view of it from close up. The building dates back to the 14th century and is one of the largest in the county. 

Inside the church has been adapted for present day needs and has a substantial seating capacity. (New seat cushions were in use today for the first time!) The height of the nave is impressive - if perhaps making heating a tad expensive!

The service was quite conventional - the music was 'proper' but could do with a little bit more liveliness about it. All the hymns were already around (and dated) in our youth. It was all conducted in an efficient and relaxed manner.

The parish has made a particular bid to meet needs of the very diverse communities that have come to occupy the town, mostly since we were here. The variety of native mother tongues amongst the congregation and the wider community was recognised. An app is provided with 'simultaneous' translation of the liturgy into quite a number of different languages.

As we walked back we made a brief detour into the former churchyard where an early Rectory remains (now a museum). Parts date back to 13C and the manor house of which it was part was home to the rector until mid 20C.

There was also a wicker bell, installed after a large event in 2023 to celebrate the town's long association the bells and the bell foundry, and was made by a local artist to represent Great Paul, a nearly 17 ton bell cast at Taylors for St Paul's Cathedral in London and remains the largest  bell in current use in the UK.

We returned to the boat just after 12:30 but in the heat neither of us felt like having lunch just yet. We quickly changed into 'boat' clothes and cast off from the mooring pontoon. However, the boat that had been moored on the other side of the pontoon had moved temporarily to the water point. This reduced the amount of room for us to manoeuvre and turn towards the exit from the basin. Mike opted at one point in the process to back into the vacant space to gain a better turning circle.

Alas as he did so there was a sudden change in the engine sound and the prop only shot water sideways and not backwards. We managed to come alongside the non-mooring side of the basin in order to investigate the weed hatch. Turned out to be a mixed bag of plastic in many different forms but it did come away much more easily than that at Lime Kiln.

By the time we ready to try again the boat on the waterpoint had moved back to its pontoon but also another boat had arrived and occupied the space we had earlier vacated. It was still tricky to make the turn but in the end we managed without running into another boat!

As we passed the bridge across Loughborough Junction (underneath goes back towards Leicester) a small boat emerged. Its size and shape brought back fond memories of Fiona that we had in the late Sixties but sold in 1971 as we had by then moved to the North East - not a lot of connected canals! Of course this one will have been made from sterner material than ours (marine plywood)

At the first Lock, Loughborough Lock, it was already being filled by the crew from one of the Le Marchant charity boats out on a trip form its base just to the south of the town.

A notable former lock cottage stands alongside having long since passed into private ownership and now has no connection with the lock.

Just above Bishop Meadow Lock we paused to fill our water tank. As it was quite empty we also had time for lunch. Christine also chatted to a member of CaRT staff in the adjacent compound area. It seems that the facilities we saw part constructed last year are now designated for use only by moorers living on the nearby long term moorings. This is despite the fact that waste disposal is still listed here on the CaRT website. The conversation revealed that a growing number of boaters are perceiving difficulties with the way in which the new facilities policy is being implemented. There was also a suggestion that those at Trent Lock at the start of the Erewash have either been or about to be removed, despite the advice posted at Barrow Mill. Like the one at the previous lock, the Cottage here has long been privately owned.

Once the tank was filled we made our way to the lock which remained full from the trip boat. A boat arrived below and the crew asked whether we were going down before they emptied it. Made life a bit easier for us.

We next passed Normanton where at one stage we thought about going to the church this morning, but the lack of access rom the river made it not possible. The village is basically a short ribbon development with most properties between the Main Street and the river bank. The first part are largely single storey properties, close to the water, with some measure of flood protection ie built on short pillars. We do not know whether they have planning consent for year-round occupation or are more holiday and leisure use.

The middle section, including the church, contains much larger properties with frontages to moor narrowboats or larger river cruisers.

We did not get the best pictures of these properties because we were really on the lookout for the best view of the church. The vegetation has grown significantly since most well-used publicity photos were taken and good open views are rare. This is about the best we caught this time.

The third section returns to the small wooden structures but in between there is a boat club and a pub - lots of small unpowered craft in action. we had to be super careful as a line of stand up paddle boards was strung out across the full width of the river and none of the riders took one glance behind them. Their shocked surprise when we almost caught up with them  betrayed a worrying lack of awareness and, indeed, water safety.

Next came Zouch Cut, a short canal section that starts with a large radial sluice used to control water flows. Just after 15:30, the heat overwhelmed us and we took a mooring shortly before the lock at the end of the cut. These are good moorings that we have used several times before.

3.8 Miles - 2 Locks

Loughborough Basin

Today's Canal : Loughborough Cut

We started today with several possible plans. We would have liked to be able to attend the church at Normanton tomorrow as it sits right beside the navigation. However, the only possible option for mooring is at the nearby pub and we were concerned that it might be a big ask on a bank holiday weekend to be able to stay there this afternoon and tonight.

However, our over-riding concern was waste disposal and water input! The closure notice at Barrow Mill (former) services clearly stated that there were no facilities until Trent Lock at the stat of the Erewash. We used those at Loughborough Basin twice last year but that was before the new toilet etc closure policy was in full force. The CaRT online Network Map clearly shows them still at Loughborough (as it did for Barrow Mill!) as well as some at Bishop's Meadow Lock that we spotted last year as under construction.

All this might just have been of passing interest were it for the fact that two of our three toilet cassettes were now full as also all of our three waste bins. The remains of the puffer jacket from Lime Kiln Lock are still in a plastic back on the roof. We worked out a plan to cope so long as we reached Trent Lock in two days, but it would mean losing some of the leisurely stopovers that are possible on the way down the Soar.

On another hot and sunny day, but this time with a refreshing gentle breeze, we set off in hope! As this photo demonstrates, the sun was in the wrong place for good photos as we cruised the mile to the basin.

The road sign in this picture did catch our attention - not an obvious name for a street in Loughborough. However, Swabisch Hall is a city in Germany and is one of four European places twinned with Loughborough.

As we arrived into the basin we were pleasantly surprised to see only one other boat on the mooring pontoons

1 Mile - 0 Locks

Car Shuffle

Rather than leave it until next week, we opted to take the chance of being near to a railway station to do the car shuffle - moving it from Brinklow to Nottingham Castle Marina. It turned out to be an unusually complicated operation, more so than most and did require Mike to do two things for the first time.

He booked the outbound train tickets last night on line. This took some while as, after quickly identifying the preferred journey, the payment process was seriously flawed. The route was three stages and the system would only allow for the third one to be purchased. After several failed attempts to buy the whole journey Mike gave up and bought just the third one and then the other two - as a single -purchase - separately. In the process he discovered that National Rail now charge £1 to receive tickets from a station machine, only e tickets are free. The first purchase offered to download a rail pass to Google Wallet - so this was the first 'new thing'.

The second purchase was different and only offered physical tickets from a machine - at an unavoidable £1 charge! No e ticketing available it seems.

This morning Mike left the boat in good time, around 9.45, just in case there was an issue at the machine. As it happened when he arr3iuved at the Ticket Office there was a person sitting at the desk, looking very unwanted. He was more than willing to extract the paper tickets - at no extra charge!

The first train was to Leicester, only a short ride. In the distant past there was a direct line to Rugby the nearest station for Brinklow, but that was 'rationalised' by the infamous Dr Beeching. Today the journey involved either two or three changes. In this case, the second leg was to Birmingham New Street - not the obvious direction on the map! 

Here, Mike wanted to pick up some lunch as the connection was quite generous in time. However, New Street is formed of different zones and changing trains usually involved checking out of one zone and then back into another. Food stands are both 'in' the zones and in the central concourse. If did feel as if the number of lunch on the go outlets is much reduced. The first ticket let Mike out of a zone but and to the other zone where the third train was expected. First: no where to find a sandwich. Second, the train Mike thought he was travelling on was delayed indefinitely! Fortunately he checked his email ticket (the rail pass does not show journey details) and found that somehow the system had sold him a later ticket from a different train company! At least it was on time but from a platform back in the first zone!

At this point Mike discovered that either the gate or the pass does not allow for Zone changes - but real people do, fortunately. In the end the final train ran to schedule.

Now to get from Rugby Station to Brinklow Marina. Mike was about the last person out (having misremembered the station layout - he has had this problem before) and by the time he was at the taxi rank, none were to be seen. After waiting a few minutes, he saw another taxi driver obviously waiting fro a pre-booked fare and asked for guidance. he quickly rang a friend who was only three minutes away (really!) who took Mike to the marina very efficiently. A road works closure meant a detour around narrow lanes. At one low rail bride, a transporter lorry with a large piece of machinery was standing talking into his phone and looking rather worried. Even turning around would not be easy on the narrow road.

Mike collected the car from the far end of the marina (where he had been asked to leave it out of the way) but then had a protracted argument with the sat nav which seemed to have taken umbrage at being out of use for three weeks! Eventually, can and phone agreed to talk to each other and he was on the way.

A shortish cross country route brough him to the M1 which took him most of the way to Nottingham. Being the start of a bank holiday weekend, heavy traffic was expected but the whole journey was distinctly unbusy the opposite side had a short tailback for no obvious reason for a mile or so. The satnav proved its value once leaving the motorway as the remaining journey included a large number of roundabouts, each with different layouts! Mike arrived at the marina well  ahead of the original ETA but first had to make contact with the office.

Next on the itinerary was Nottingham Station, just over a mile away. Options offered included a walk along the towpath, the nearest tram stop not very close or an Uber. This latter was the second 'new thing'. Fortunately, anticipating that this might be needed, the app had already been downloaded but lack of familiarity with its intricacies did not help. Aided by the lass in the office, it did not take long for an Uber to be booked and paid for which arrived quicker than it took Mike to walk from the office to the marina entrance!

The ride to the station was very efficient and dropped Mike at the entrance. First glance at the departures screen suggested that a slightly earlier train might be possible. However, signs also asked passengers to be patient as a new computer system had just been introduced and the staff were still getting to grips with it. By the time Mike had ticket in hand it was past that departure time.

No matter as by the time Mike had reached the platform that train was now indefinitely delayed! the final train then to Loughborough was just about running to time and, as it happened,  Mike was back at the start point at the time he had put on his provisional trip plan! He was back at the boat just seven hours after leaving it.

Meanwhile Christine had been doing some well needed laundry (danger of running out of essentials!) which very quickly dried as the weather today was a dramatic change - from grey and chilly to heatwave! The forecast is now for that almost unheard of event, a hit and sunny bank holiday!

Christine also unpacked a desk fan that we had just bought in hot weather last year when we were prevented from further cruising by the drought. The minimalist assembly instructions took time to unravel but she found the cooling air flow a life saver in an otherwise almost repressive heat.

As an addendum to today's excursion, these two items are available to see on one of the buildings on one of Loughborough Station's platforms.

Thomas Cook later became much more adventurous but this trip is widely considered to mark the start of packaged holidays. Before then, travel was much the preserve of those who could afford to travel independently, but with plenty of family or business connections to help them on their way.

An interesting biography can be found here but essentially by 1841 Thomas Cook had already become a keen member of the newly growing Temperance movement. This trip was specifically to enable other members from Leicester to attend a rally in support of their cause being held in Loughborough. Tickets included, as well as the travel fare, lunch and musical entertainment (no doubt of a suitable sober form!) But this combination of benefits made this indeed a package tour.

Loughborough

Today's Navigations : River Soar, Loughborough Cut

We set off in good time this morning - the first lock was less than 200m away. The lock had been left full last night and nothing had moved yet today. As Christine brought the boat down to the lock, the one that had moored behind us, Duchess, arrived keen to join with us. We did have to apologise that we were planning to stop above Barrow Deep at the service point.

Although the morning was rather grey it was also definitely a bit warmer, with almost a heatwave promised for the Bank Holiday weekend ahead. Two boats exiting the lock was a bit tricky - the lock landing was shortened by a sunken boat tied to the far end and the usual steps alongside the bridge were technically fenced off. Eventually Mike ignored the fence and squeezed around the end!

Immediately we passed the 'must have a pic' view of the bypass weir.

After an enjoyable cruise for half an hour around various twisting bends, we arrived at Barrow Mill, just before the Deep Lock. There have been boater facilities here for a long time and we were in need of both water and elsan. We were a bit concerned as we recalled seeing a stoppage notice that there had been problems here a few weeks ago. However, the CaRT Facilities Map indicated that the elsan and water were still here. After hooking up to the water tap we discovered notices on the walls saying that all waste facilities here had been removed (the toilets had closed under the new policy anyway) It also stated that the nearest options were either back at Memory Lane in Leicester or above Trent Lock at the start of the Erewash Canal. That does seem a long separation! There was no mention of Loughborough Basin facilities which are also still on the website. As we plan a fairly slow few days, movement wise, we hope that they remain available . . .

The assortment of unusual leisure boats were all in dock at this time but they are sure to get plenty of exercise over the weekend.

We moved on the the lock where Ann, another Waterways Chaplain, was preparing the lock. There was also a group of young people who were keen to be involved. It is good to be able to answer there questions and to let them  have a go at opening paddles and gates but it is always worth keeping a close watch to make sure that they do not come to any harm. No prospect of that here, thankfully, and as we left one of the lads expressed clearly genuine thanks for 'teaching them how it works and letting them have a go' (But hence why no pix)

After leaving the lock it was a chance to catch up with Ann. Initially we moored well down the lock landing for a coffee. In the process Ann opted to stay with us into Loughborough as she was planning to catch a rain back to Leicester where she lives.

Just after the multi arched road bridge we spotted these splendid shelters for those seeking refreshment at the adjacent pub.

It was a pleasant 20  minute cruise down to Pillings Weir and Flood Lock.

As expected the flood lock was open at both ends so we were quickly off the river and onto the Loughborough Cut, a long bypass into the town which rejoins the river below Bishops Meadow Lock.

We moored just after passing under the Great Central Railway Bridge and bollard moorings ideal for a short walk to the train station. We had lunch and our visitor lft to catch her train well after three o'clock.

But we have our on reason for stopping here, short of the town centre. We now plan that Mike will do the car shuffle tomorrow, taking the train from here back to Rugby, car to the marina at Nottingham and then a train back again to here. At one time, Leicester had a direct connection to Rugby but which was lost in an early 1960s rationalisation (aka closure plan) As it is now all options are convoluted and with either 2 or 3 connections - and then finding a taxi to the marina.

5.4 Miles - 2 Locks

Mountsorrel

Today's Navigation : River Soar

Another shortish cruise today. Our updated trip plan showed us getting to just above Barrow Deep Lock today (where there should be facilities) but we also realised that tomorrow's segment was shorter than calculated. Pilling's Lock is really a flood lock so, at this time of year, we are very likely to be able to cruise straight through. There are a few moorings above Mountsorrel Lock but they can sometimes be filled up quite quickly. Anyway, we set off on the basis that we might do four locks (to Barrow) but stop earlier if space permits (above Mountsorrel)

Just as we were slowly preparing to set off to the nearby Junction Lock we saw a boat coming down so we asked if we could share. Turned out to be another of the boats moored along with us at Castle Gardens!

Sharing locks can, in the right circumstances, be easier and perhaps quicker - but not always. It also means that it is impolite to hang about taking photos rather than open and closing gates promptly . . . Part of the reason why we have so few photos for this blog entry. 

We found leaving Junction Lock trickier than usual - somehow Mike took several goes at getting the boat to pull away from the lower lock landing, not helped by new and extensive willow growth at the far end. (Well, steerers do have to have a good reason - excuse? - for their errors!)

Below the lock it was sad to see a house left derelict. On the 1990s OS Map it labels this as Osier Villa but it will take some effort - and cash - to save this house from demolition. OK< so it is now next to a busy link road between the A6 and A46 but plenty of properties have been satisfactorily upgraded with triple glazing.

Althiugh we did not find many photo opportunities for the blog, the cruise is very pleasant, meandering route.

Sileby Lock gradually came into view, with the boatyard and former mill alongside. The boatyard were very helpful back in 2021 when we were shot at and needed a replacement window pane. We also spotted Tyto Alba moored as it has been for some years, outside the mill. We noticed that it has 

had a repaint and some changes to its colour scheme. Also, a different style of barn owl on the name panel! It always did look smart, now looks even smarter.

Onward once more - we told our lock companions that we may be stopping above Mountsorrel Lock. Surprise though when we realised that no-one at all was moored on the short stretch above the lock! By lunch time two others moored, one either side of us but they continued their cruises a little later. They were replaced in the space behind us by another of the Castle Gardens boats! In such a popular spot it is unfortunate that there is only room for one and three quarters boats to moor.

Christine wandered down to the lock and scouted out the menu offerings at the popular Waterside Inn. Abandoning any claim to healthy eating, she had decided that her back needed special treat(ment) with at least some proper chips tonight, Back at the boat she found Mike quite happy to go along with her suggestion of giving our resident chef a night off and she phoned to book a table for 7 pm.

STOP PRESS

Just for the record, the boat behind did tell us that they stopped at the Hope and Anchor water point and found that it does not work at present.

3.3 Miles - 3 Locks

Junction Lock

Today's Navigation : River Soar

We, have a regular (ish) Zoom call with a friend from our time in Wadebridge. It gives an opportunity to keep up with events down there, even though it is now five years since we moved away. Watching recently a stream of an event in Truro Cathedral did bring home to us how personnel have changed and where we would once have known quite well all the main participants (and others) we could recognise more than perhaps two or maybe three.

Today's call began at 10:30 and at least we had a reasonable mobile signal and the connection only froze for a few short moments. It was around 11:45 when we finished and quickly untied the boat to set off as planned.

As we knew we would be late leaving we only planned a short trip today, just a few miles and one lock, In addition, the weather forecast last night did suggest rather a lot of rain during the day, interspersed with some sunshine. As soon as the rain clouds spotted that we were casting off they opted to unleash some water - but only a very light shower and brief as well. The White Horse towpath bridge crosses part of the downstream mill race for a Mill serving the once small village of Birstall. Wikipedia suggests that there was a mill here in Domesday times.

The river winds around the flood plain and a lot of substantial vegetation has grown up, making it look very scenic. Alas, it also makes it difficult for the steer and in this photo, the growth from the two sides was so close together that the boat was swept by both.

As we passed the almost hidden entrance to Leicester Marina blue sky and sunshine broke through for a while. Two boats that passed us as we cast off - they had just come down the lock - turned into the marina so we anticipated that we would not have long to wait at the one lock we planned to work through today.

Thurmaston has quite a substantial weir stream that takes most of the river flow around the lock. On the other side of the stream is Watermead Country Park, with its memorial to King Lear.

As is often the case with river navigations, the change in level can be very different from one to the next. Here it is quite shallow, officially 1.07 m. A boat was just starting on its way up so we had to pull to the side. Two small cruisers were inappropriately moored which meant that a more complicated manoeuvre than need be but we did need to leave enough room for the other boat to come out safely. They left both sets of top gate paddles open "as it makes it easier to close them" - does it and what about the standard instruction to close them on departure? Christine did feel that they had not had much prior experience before hiring this boat at Barton Turns Marina. 

The Hope and Anchor pub looked very neglected when we passed it last year. It had once been a Green King Hungry Horse family pub-diner but closed in that format in 2024 after it was seriously flooded. From the canal it looks as if the new owners still have a lot to do and its web site is only in  the early stages of construction.

We had heard that the water point on the edge of the pub car park had been removed but a tap is still visible. We did not stop to check if it also supplied water! It does not appear on the CaRT map but neither is it listed on the set of boater facilities that have been closed!  (We shall have to wait and see what there is at Barrow Mill which is also inconsistently listed) It may, of course, have been that the Hope and Anchor water point was never CaRT's responsibility anyway - this sometimes happened. It may also no longer work! It did last year though.

And so to the junction with the once-navigable River Wreake (known as the Melton Mowbray Navigation to where it once ran and here it joined with the Oakham Canal)

Just beyond is Junction Lock but we planned to moor immediately above. There is plenty of good armco to tie to and also a long stretch of river below with little real opportunity to stay the night.

5.2 Miles - 1 Lock