Fotheringhay

Today's Navigation : River Nene

The day started really bright with clear sky - the breeze was almost non existent. Alas by midday various amounts of cloud had taken over and late in the afternoon the breeze had turned into a howling gale (or so it felt!)

We were away just after 9 and had almost an hour of level cruising before having to tackle a lock. We passed Stibbington Boatyard.

Just after we passed this obelisk. In 2018 we completely failed to find any reference to it but we can now see that is in the Orchards, the grounds of Stibbington Hall (see).

After the two 20C road bridges, each carrying one carriageway of the A1, we arrived at the much older Wansford Bridge. This was the original river crossing by the A1 and was last rebuilt at the very end of the 18C.

Under the main arch, three women were preparing to go swimming in the river. This place is listed as a wild swimming location (see)

But cruising on a river cannot last forever without a lock or two! (Four today) The first was Wansford where we gradually refined our uphill technique (taken from the Stanground lock keeper)

The smallest of signs made sure that we took the right course just before Yarwell Lock.

Today this weir allows excess water from the river to flow down and around Yarwell Lock. According to the OS map, it was once the natural course of the River Nene.

Footbridges are rare on the Nene and this one has the odd name of Duck Street Footbridge, taking its name from a street in the nearby small village of Elton. An account of a walk taken by someone a few years ago showed that it had been closed on the grounds that it was unsafe. However, it seems that it has now been repaired and is back in use.

Shortly after comes the Elton Road Bridge - making life easier for the small community of liveaboard boards just downstream.

The last lock of today was a bit of  a test: Warmington Lock still has a manual wheel. The gate almost dropped on its way down but needed a helping hand for the last metre. Raising at the end was another matter!

It was by now rather late for lunch so we tied up on the upper lock landing, banking on nothing else coming through whilst we had our lunch. As expected nothing did come - we passed two boats on their way downstream a little earlier but they were the first since we re-joined the river days ago.

We did not stay too long not only in case someone arrived but also as we were in danger of becoming too rooted to the spot if we waited any longer!

Moving on, the breeze was by now definitely a brisk wind, making conditions not quite so pleasant for river cruising. It was about a mile to Fotheringhay where we came to land on the pay-for moorings. We were just a little surprised that no-one else was there as the associated camping areas was quite busy with folk setting up alongside their parked camper vans.

9.2 Miles - 4 Locks (One wheel)

Wansford Station

Today's Navigation : River Nene

We were rather later leaving today than usual - we awoke late and also Mike had a longish phone call to make as Waterways Chaplain. It was nearly eleven before we exited from the country park, back on to the Nene.

The hire boat left early, even before we awoke so it was a lonely picture as we crossed the lake. The trip boat looks stranded in mid water but we did just see a small dinghy alongside the landing stage where, presumably, passengers embark.

 

The country park was created in 1978 by the then Peterborough Development Corporation which oversaw the expansion of the city in that decade by almost 100%. Ferry Meadows itself was created as a gravel pit, providing the extensive materials needed for the rapid expansion. (see)

We assume that once the gravel working had ceased, part of the country park development was to dig the entrance channel to connect with the River Nene. From inside the park there is no sign for the exit and it is all but camouflaged by the trees. It was only at the last moment that we could be sure we were heading the right way!

After a brief shower as we were setting off, the day turned quickly to something special. It was warm, not quite as breezy and with lots of sunshine and blue skies - the clouds added to the picture and never looked likely to turn to rain.

After a short distance we came under Milton Ferry Bridge, built in 1716 by the then Earl Fitzwilliam on a spot that was once Gunners Wade Ferry. The bridge charged tolls up until 1964.

And so to the first of two locks we aimed to work today: Alwalton. Everything was much as expected until we came to leave. After the fun and games yesterday with the wind an a lock landing, Christine asked Mike to tie up to the upper landing before going back to empty the lock and raise the gate. It proved not easy to come alongside the landing but it was not until we finally tried to leave that we found that the boat was very firmly stuck on some underwater obstruction less than a metre out from the edge. It took a long time to work free. We were on the brink of calling for help!

A little further and we passed Peterborough Cruising Club, another in-line mooring mainly for river cruisers. It is smaller than the Yacht Club we passed yesterday, which probably does not like to be confused with its lesser rival!

Across the fields we could see a large house, Castor Mill and the remains of a windmill. The house dates from the early 19C and was built as a mill and miller's house. Once that function ceased it was much adapted as a more conventional residence. We are not certain but it is possible that recently it has been bought and changed into a non-residential purpose. 

Alongside are the remains of a windmill known as Black Dike Mill and dates from around the same time as the house. Better pictures can be found here.

Large mills were obviously once very common - we noted this one at Water Meadows Lock on our way down.

The lock itself is much the same as others on this river but we are still working out the best way to operate them to minimise the amount of walking around the lock from one side to the other.

The landscape around this river is very different from the Great Ouse - the land is generally equally flat but it is more naturally like that (and as the result of long establish agriculture, of course) There are rarely any of the high banks that accompany the drainage works of the Middle Level and much of the Great Ouse valley.

We could see the Nene Valley Railway and Wansford Station from some distance but trees hid the visitor mooring until almost the last moment. It was therefore with a really great sigh of relief that we found it entirely unoccupied. It is a long way from here to Fotheringhay, the next known place to moor overnight. (no new pictures but see our earlier visit)

6.2 Miles - 2 Locks

Ferry Meadows

Today's Navigations : Middle Level, River Nene

A bright morning with sunshine expected for the first part of the morning but no rain forecast. We did have a short period of very light rain but it was not enough to bother with waterproofs. Otherwise there was much more blue sky than anticipated.

We had a very quiet night on the lower lock landing so were already on the spot for the lock.

We were booked to pass through Stanground at 10 o'clock and just a few minutes after, the resident lock keeper came to tell us that she was ready for us to come into the lock. She is the third generation here and her grandfather originally operated short boats transporting grain and other goods on the Middle Level. The lock keeper tied off our centre line and asked us to remain in forward gear to hold the boat close to the top gates. At this time, the rise is not great but we did have a chance to have a short chat with the lock keeper.

The extension of the Middle Level locks was mentioned yesterday and questions about the date of this improvement were answered when Mike realised that a plaque was attached to the lock wall, right in front of his nose as he waited for the lock to fill! In case the photo is too small to read, the new sized locks were opened in 1990.

On the stretch just before arriving at the River Nene is a fairly modern housing estate that is built around several much older water courses. The section of the estate to the right of this entrance is effectively an island but a standard estate road  - Riverside Mead - gives conventional access for vehicles as well as pedestrians.

As we emerged onto the river we were attracted to the sight of this row of heavily pollarded trees. We did not notice them back in July when we arrived here even though we moored close by.

We moored on the Embankment close to the shops as we planned to pop to the nearby ASDA for two or three items. Somehow, between the planning and the execution, this list grew and we returned to the boat with a very full trolley load! Once we set off, Christine's challenge was to find places to store it all.

Next to our mooring is the Grain Barge, moored here for over twenty years and, for the most of that time has been a restaurant serving Chinese cuisine. We did spot a news item that suggested it may soon be turning to different flavours. The barge itself is from the Netherlands where it started work in 1907 carrying principally grain and sand to places and rivers in Holland, Belgium and Germany. It was bought in 1990 by Paul Hook of Oakham Ales and brought, reportedly precariously, to the River Nene with the intention of being adapted as prominent eating place for the city centre.

There are at least seven bridges over the river in the city centre - rail, road and pedestrian.

We spotted a tiny note on one of our maps that, just upstream from here, was Woodston Staunch (see). This was originally the structure that controlled the upper limit of the tidal Nene. After the river had become rather neglected, a far-sighted Chief Engineer for the new Nene Catchment Board persuaded, in the 1930s, the local authorities to invest heavily in improving the facilities. A key component was to replace this staunch with the Dog-in-a-Doublet weir and lock, well downstream of the city centre. That then became the tidal limit, as it remains today. Woodston was soon abandoned but some of its water management functions were incorporated into a new development of Orton Lock.

Just after passing under the Nene Parkway bridge we arrived at the lower lock landing - and 48hr Visitor Mooring - for Orton Lock.

Mike stepped off (originally wrote 'jumped' but that would have been an exaggeration!) to operate the gates whilst Christine was able to cruise straight in. The sizeable weir is the control function transferred from Woodston.

Christine had quite a task after leaving the lock - she came onto the upper lock landing but, despite having a rope around a bollard, a sudden strong blast of wind blew the boat right out into the wide river! Eventually she managed to reverse onto the landing to collect Mike who otherwise would have had an impossible walk!

The long moorings of Peterborough Yacht Club seem very popular, few vacant spaces could be seen.

The sign indicating the narrow turn into Ferry Meadows Lake and Country Park only emerges from the vegetation at the last minute - by then it best to have already started the manoeuvre! We arrived to find both double pontoons entirely empty and so had our pick for tonight. In the shenanigans at the Orton lock landing, the centre line had fallen into the water so we were keen to have the pontoon on that side to make it easier to retrieve it. As  result we failed to take a photo of the pontoons from the approach so we will have to try again tomorrow. There is a trip boat based here and it went out once in the afternoon.

Late afternoon, Christine took a wander into the park area and found it very pleasant if, at this time, somewhat bereft of visitors. She was able to take a couple of long shots across the lake.

An ABC hire boat from March arrived to moor on the other pontoon.

4.2 Miles - 2 Locks

Stanground

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

The weather was bright and sunny when we awoke but by the time we set off from the Rural Mooring the forecast rain was just arriving. Ultimately it came to very little, although we did don waterproofs for a  short period. Still pleasantly warm but with an even stiffer breeze than yesterday.

Most of today's cruise was to be along mainly long straight sections with few special features to note. As a result most of today's pictures are chosen for themselves rather than to illustrate a particular point.

This one brings out the sense of isolation even though there are quite a few farms or other dwellings spread out along the bumpy roads on the top of the banks lining the navigable dykes or drains.

As we found on Sunday, these rural roads, even the named A or B roads, are bumpy from subsidence. The bumps are not usually marked - there are just too many - locals get to know when to avoid the normal left side of the road. Sometimes, the highway authority does indicate a particular section with a standard 'bumpy road' sign. We wondered if this section was especially rough, enough to warrant the addition of a SLOW sign!

Someone must be especially patriotic (hopefully and not something more partisan) as their substantial flagpole must have cost a few pennies. In the exposed and windy location they may well have to replace the flag quite often as well.

The way in which this pipe bridge neatly encloses the brighter sky is even more striking on a thumbnail.

Just before the junction with the Twenty Foot River at Angle Corner we suddenly spotted this Rural Mooring. Information about the locations of the new moorings is scant and we had thought that this one was actually on the Twenty Foot. If we had known we might have been tempted to press on to here yesterday (glad we didn't) This one is even 'rougher' than where we did stop and only had two poles for attaching mooring lines. Still, the Commissioners are moving in the right direction, so don't complain!

That is the Twenty Foot, going under this low bridge, where we thought the Rural Mooring had been built. One of the reasons we did not originally opt for here was uncertainty of whether we could get under that bridge. Few boats venture that way as there are several very low bridges in that direction.

Just a 'nice' picture. Note: we missed the shot from the other side as we were a bit too slow so have flipped the image so that the MLC is easier to see! (Just in case anyone who knows the Middle level spots it)

Going around one of the few corners, we were taking this shot of a pumping station, for reference, when we suddenly realised that the grey clouds had suddenly been replaced by bright blue sky, which remained with us until after we moored.

And so to Ashline Lock - which we knew would be hard work.

Alongside the lock is this instruction. How difficult is that to understand? So Mike was not a little displeased to see, as he walked up from the lock landing below, to discover that both top gates were left open. As there is no way across the top of the lock it is a long walk around to do both. Back then to the bottom gate and to begin opening one of the penstocks. (These take 70+ turns to open fully) After 30 turns the water below looked as if it was letting put a good flow already so Mike paused to regain his breath. But he could see that the water level in the lock was barely dropping at all. The top gates did not look quite fully closed  - the mitre normally ensures that this happens quickly. So, he closed the penstock and walked up to the top and made sure that the gates were as closed as could be and that nothing was blocking, holding them ajar.

Back to the bottom penstocks and the same experience repeated except that he could now see that water was coming through at least one of the top penstocks - the water level had to drop just a little for it to be obvious. Mike had already checked the towpath side penstock and it seemed closed so back around to the offside and he found that one to be fully open. He closed it and returned to the other end. yet still it seemed as if water was coming in at the top. Back up to the towpath penstock. This time he discovered that it had been opened sufficiently firmly that it required quite a bit of force to start it turning to close.

At last the lock level was dropping! Whilst waiting for the lock to empty Mike spotted the remains of the original location of the bottom gates. The lock has clearly been extended at some time to allow today's longer craft to pass through.

The original location is just this side of the modern escape ladders.

Eventually it was possible to open both gates and allow Christine to bring our boat inside. This is not the fastest of locks to fill or empty at the best of times as the penstocks take even the fittest navigator (the MLC term for boater, everything has a special name hereabouts!) some time to open fully.

Once Christine had escaped, on her way to the upper lock landing, Mike closed up the top gates and penstocks. But of course, those who can read will know that the sign meant that his work was not over as he still had to empty the lock. An hour after arriving Mike could now return to the boat, exhausted, waving farewell to the lock with not a little relief.

Whittlesey Mooring, just above the lock, was under repair when we came down but is now in operation, we were more than grateful that it was empty so that we could tie up for a longer lunch break.  As well as being extensively refurbished an entirely new water point has been installed. Our tank was quite full but decided to top up anyway.

Before we set off this morning we phoned Stanground and discovered that there were no booked passages this afternoon and so (with the 24 hours notice rule) we would need to wait until 10 am tomorrow. However we were also given permission to moor on the lock landing at Stanground overnight so that we did not have to set off from Whittlesey before dawn! It is around an hour and three quarters cruise to the lock, with no known moorings in between.

Not long after leaving the Whittlesey mooring we had to negotiate the Briggate turning, a well known problem for longer boats. At one stage the turn was so tight that navigation was limited to the size of boats indicated by the original gate position at Ashline Lock. In more recent times, a little more space has been squeezed out of the steep sides but it is still necessary to take it at the slowest speed possible. This is to allow the boat time to turn about its centre position before running into the outside of the corner. Also, we knew from our last visit here that if you take the boat too close to the inside it is likely to stick on built up silt. We are pleased to report that we made it around without touching any of the sides!

Approaching Peterborough these chimneys are a landmark for some time. They belonged to a large brick works that made millions of the famous Fletton bricks. As far as we can discover the site has now closed and is being made over to the inevitable new housing.

Just before the junction with the Old Course River Nene (not accessible here for navigation) is the Peterborough Depot of the London Tower Cranes Company. We assume that the three cranes that tower over the site are used to sort out the stock of parts and load onto lorries. Passing them they feel quite ominous, almost ready for a part in a mid 20C sci-fi special - or even a location for a Doctor Who contemporary episode.

Another 20 minutes and we turned the corner immediately ahead of Stanground Lock. It was with a great sigh of relief that we could see that it was quite free (actually only just long enough for us, we stuck out both ends) There are very few 'wild' moorings on the Middle Level and, despite keeping a beady eye for a Plan B just in case someone had beaten us to the space, we had not really seen anything suitable. Pix of the lock and landing will have to wait to the morrow.

9.9 Miles - 1 Lock