Whittlesea

Today's Navigations : River Nene, Middle Level (Kings Dyke)

Althiugh we awoke to a grey sky, we were hopeful of a quick change as better weather was expected between 8  and 9 - which is what happened! We had planned to leave the mooring just after 10 to get to Stanground in good time for the scheduled 11 lock passage. However, we were increasingly nervous about the elsan as we were by now just over half of our maximum capacity (3 cassettes) So, we left a bit earlier, turned and motored back under Frank Perkins Bridge to the EA facilities on Peterborough Embankment.

Althiugh there are three 'boxes' beside the river moorings, none of them offer elsan disposal. When we came last time it was in the former public toilet block nearby - long closed, even 8 years ago - and was being refurbished. We do not know what has gone wrong but the building is unused and even the elsan sluice is boarded up. The waterside facilities include two pumpout units - seemingly free - but the electric has to be turned on at boxes on the toilet block wall. We failed to unlock either of them and, in any case, did not know how much use they would be.

So, all we could do was to unmoor (having left some rubbish on the adjacent litter bins! There is no proper rubbish disposal for boaters in Peterborough) and return back towards the Middle Level.  We could see quite clearly the amount of building work going on just opposite - we recall building work last time we moored here!  No doubt as this all looks residential that is why the new footbridge is needed.

The turning towards Stanground is just after the bridge - sun was in a good direction for a better picture today.

As we turned we had a good view down the long straight.

A railway line passes over just after the turn - so this was taken after we had come through.

There is only a very short landing before the lock, but luckily we were there first (we knew that two others were also booked to go through). The lock keeper - no longer resident - arrived well ahead of schedule and walked down to where we were moored to check our licence and then say that he would be opening the upper doors straight away and we could then enter the lock. This was almost half an hour earlier than we had expected and an hour better than would have been possible if we were the third boat starting at 11!

The road bridge is right river the lock and covers about half of the length. At the stern it felt that we were in prison-like conditions. In any event, it was a smooth descent, especially as all the work was done for us. The upper end is mechanised but the lower end is still manual. We collected the special keys needed for Ashline (we used to have a windlass but do not know where it has hidden itself - perhaps it is at home?) The lock keeper's card machine was broken so we were trusted to pay up when we arrived at Salters Lode, the far end of the Middle Level.

As we drew away from the lock we could see how the operation has changed from our previous visits. The office was in the keeper's house beside the lock. That house seems now to have been sold off with die warning to boaters not to disturb the occupants! Instead there is a tiny shed. The lower lock landing is rather better than the one above.

We now settled down to the different style of navigation from the Nene. Even in the first section, which has a number of bends, much is very straight. Later we will be craving a bend or two! We were pleased to find that the weed growth was noting like as bad as some had told us.

Just after Horsey Junction and Bierrum's Bridge we passed London Tower Cranes Peterborough depot. Here they store a large number of the Meccano-like pieces that are assembled into construction site's cranes, all in the distinctive hammer head style. We assume that the fully assembled ones are for moving the parts around on site and onto and off lorries.

For a long time, the A605 between Peterborough and Whittlesey intersected the railway line at a level crossing. This had long been a major delay as it was closed to traffic for up to 23 minutes every hour during the day. Eventually a new bridge was built and called Ralph Butcher Causeway after a local councillor who started campaigning for an already discussed solution back when he was elected in 1971! After many delays it opened to traffic in July 2022. Alas, cracks and other problems were discovered and it was partially closed for remedial works in 2024! The BBC carried a report in February this year that the road would be fully opened by the end of that month. However, as we could see, the road is still only partially opened and work continues.

The area around this bridge has long been an important brick making location. We could see a number of tall chimneys emitting something from the current factory of Forterra. This gave Mike a fright when he suddenly smelled something that suggested that our boat engine was overheating (if you have ever had your car do that you will know what we mean) But the engine was still running OK and we were [proceeding just as we had been doing for the last hour. Perhaps we could wait until our planned stop in Whittlesey to take a closer look. And then we twigged. We were directly downwind of these chimneys and as soon as we were  no longer underneath whatever they were emitting the smell disappeared. Phew!

There are several large holes in the ground where brick clay has been extracted in the past and which are now full of water. Some of it was being used today to top up the navigation.

The next section is typical of what will become the norm further on.

But for now not all is so straight. Brigatte Bend is a well known challenge for steerers. It comes at the end of a narrow, high walled section at the start of Whittlesey.

The right angle bend in the channel is an obstacle in itself but it is the narrow footbridge almost over the top that is the main restriction. Bystanders in the know enjoy waiting on the bridge to see how much difficulty a boater has. Luckily, taking it slowly, we came around without touching either side.

As we approached the 48hr visitor mooring we could see that there were workers in the water carrying out maintenance work. They claimed that the closure since Monday was announced on the Middle Level website but when we looked a couple of days ago there was no mention and a detailed look this afternoon came up with nothing. But they did suggest that we could moor on the lock landing just ahead. We found that there was a space between the landing and the lock itself that was just our length and we could even use our mooring chains. Once the work is complete it does seem as if it will be a much better facility than we recall, albeit no longer.

Late afternoon, Christine walked up towards the town - taking photos of one of the two ancient parish churches (St Mary's) as well as the Buttercross town centre. The reason why there are two large parish churches almost next to each other is that they date back centuries to when they were each under a different church dignitary. St Mary's owed allegiance to the Abbot of Thorney , whilst St Andrew's belonged to the Bishop of Ely. Churchmanship distinctions seem to have varied over time and today adopt different worship styles although both now belong to a combined benefice.

6.3 Miles - 1 Lock

Peterborough

Today's Navigation : River Nene

In comparison with yesterday, this morning was if anything colder, greyer and windier! But only by a margin. For once we were away before our mooring companions, leaving Wansford Station before the first train of the day.

All three locks left for us to do are electrified - a welcome bonus for the end of this section of our cruise. Water Newton Lock is next to the pretty church although at present rampant willow means that there is not so much to see from the lock side.

This photo shows that the water level above the lock was noticeably higher than the level set by the v doors. This meant that Mike had to push extra hard to get them to open a crack, after which it was straightforward.

Below the lock stands the substantial former mill, driven we assume by the flow of the river. It is now converted into residential use, it looks as if there are six independent dwellings.

There are two large boat clubs between here and yesterday, Peterborough and, along with one we saw yesterday, all have confusingly similar names. This one is Peterborough Cruising Club. In essence they all offer fairly basic moorings almost entirely for GRP river cruisers, most of which testify to the durability of their construction material.

We passed under another railway bridge that forms part of the Nene Valley Railway. With the large loops and turns of the river, it can sometimes be a surprise to work out which way the line is going! Here, the start of the line is to the left and Wansford to the right.

The elegant Milton Ferry Bridge has three arches but no indication which one is for navigation. Yes, it is usually safe to assume the middle one, but not always. The large clump of reeds under the one to the left of the photo at least reduces the odds by a third! It was once part of the large Milton Park estate on the north side, serving a substantial house named Ferry House but we believe that it is now the club house for a golf course.

With a name Bluebell Bridge it is a shame that the reality is so prosaic but it seems to have taken its name from an eponymous wood close by.

It is part of the Ferry Meadows Country Park - the entrance by boat is a few metres downstream.

This the Peterborough Yacht Club - we warned you that the names were easily mixed up. We spotted a couple of EA staff completing a licence check on the club's moored boats - we pointed out where ours was!

The section after the club house has small summer houses associated with each mooring.

Orton Lock is the last on the river that we shall  passing through. (There is one final one, Dog-in-a-Doublet, beyond Peterborough but beyond that the river is tidal) Orton has a substantial sluice controlled weir alongside. 

Peterborough has two north-south bypasses and this is the one to the west of the city.

Thorpe Meadows is home to a collection of outdoor pieces of art and part of the larger Peterborough Sculpture Collection. Its website says of this one that is close to the river:

Festival Boat was commissioned from the artist (Douglas Sokari Camp) as part of the final ‘Festival of Sculpture’ in 1989 which marked the end of the Development Corporation in Peterborough. This large scale artwork rests on the bank of the River Nene in Thorpe Meadows and takes as its inspiration from its location and the festival boats used ceremonially in the artist’s native Nigeria.

Every so often, on both canals and rivers, something catches the eye that is less than obvious but which on investigation has quite story to tell. Little remain of former abutments on either side of the river. However, older OS maps reveal that there was once a footbridge here, with, on the south side, a Ferry Boat Inn, close to a Basket Works and school. Nothing of those buildings now remains, replaced some tiome ago by and undistinguished small industrial estate. However, the former footpath right of way still exists and runs along a tarmac road call Wharf Road. A picture of the pub exists - see here.

On the way into the centre of the city there are five bridges, the second of which is at the start of the Nene Valley Railway.

The last, and in a way the oldest, is London Road Bridge. the recent version was completed in 1934 but there has been a crossing for centuries.

We moored as close as we could to the London Road Bridge end of the long embankment as we needed to do a substantial re-stock of our food cupboards, fridge and freezer! The only supermarket near to the river is Asda which is just a few minutes walk from where we moored. Before lunch we locked up and managed the larger part of Christine's list which our fold up trolley helped make the return journey feasible! Potatoes, milk, fruit juice and some veg are very heavy!

After lunch, Mike returned to the store for the shorter, updated list of mainly lighter items all of which easily fitted into the trolley.

We started the day with a plan to have a rest day tomorrow, moored on the embankment but, as we have found in the past, this is not the most attractive of waterfronts, not helped by hordes of people feeding the wildlife. By the time Mike had completed the second shopping trip, we were both of a mind to move on. Firstly this meant calling Stanground Lock at the start of the Middle Level to see if passage tomorrow was possible (24 hours notice is normally requested) We are now booked in at 11 am.

It was by now a pleasant afternoon and we unmoored around 3.45 to see if we  could find a better stopover for tonight. We did this on our visit visit here but things can change in 16 years!

Just a little distance and we passed what we believe to be the start of the construction of a new footbridge over the river. Work only began in June and Cygnet Bridge is expected to open in a year.

Then under the Frank Perkins Bridge, effectively the eastern bypass. (see here for some background info)

We passed the entrance to the Middle Level and went a short distance towards the Dog-in-a-Doublet but not far enough to see it. (It is over four miles of largely straight man made river)

The initial mooring opportunities were occupied by boats that a[[pear top be here long term. This is a phenomenon that has mushroomed in man parts of the navigable waters since 2018) We then kept passing mooring rings but only one at a time (boats are better moored with at least two!) Eventually we spotted two close together - which like buses turned out to be three! This cannot be described as the most interesting mooring we have ever used but at least it is away from the mountain of goose and duck poo! 

Stanground is only about half an hour away, even allowing time to turn around so no early rise needed tomorrow. Bet we still wake at 5 out of recent habit!

9.2 Miles - 3 Locks

Wansford Station

Today's Navigation : River Nene

The day began on a very different note from the past couple of weeks. As well as being completely overcast sky and a strong breeze, if not wind, which meant that we felt somewhat chilly to start today's cruise.

Casting off - remember the problems we had yesterday when mooring? - was generally less fraught, despite the timid approach Mike made when crossing the gangplank! (No, you cannot see a photo!) Even though it was about 8:15, three other boats had already left the mooring, with only ourselves the late birds.

As we arrived at our first lock, a cruiser was tied up on the lock landing but the doors were open and the guillotine closed. It transpired that they were trying to correct some mechanical fault so we were able to go straight in. This was the last of the manual (Wheel!) locks but not only was this the smoothest but also the lady from the cruiser came to assist. Guess what, Mike forgot to take most of the usual pix at this lock. Will have to try harder on the return trip.

However he did note the unusual more formal bywash, running quite fast it seems. The very friendly people on the cruiser assured us that this was the last manual lock before Peterborough. Phew!

Next came Elton Lock. Some the very varied lists of manual Nene Locks suggested that this was still manual but, cheers, it is indeed electric.

Just after passing the village of Nassington we passed through the remains of the abutments for a former railway bridge. Not quite That railway but the Rugby and Peterborough branch line. Back on 30th April, we noted the start of the Rugby to Stanford railway, similarly closed by Beeching. Both were early developments from the 1840s. After it was first opened and had proven its success, its directors decided to link to Peterborough and joined up with the other line for the final section in to the town. They joined at Yarwell Junction,. now the western end of the Nene Valley Railway.

Yarwell Lock followed and, unusually, has a very good water point accessible only when on the upper lock landing!

The lock is alongside the former Yarwell Mill, still looking imposing. Beside that is  a large residential mobile home park aimed at people over 45, but it seemed to have a few pitches for touring vans.

The downside at this lock was the exit to the lower lock landing. As can be seen in the above photo, a long boat comes straight out into the remains of a concrete landing and a large tree, It took Christine some effort to avoid both! Short cruisers might have sufficient room to turn sharply right as they exit.

Our final lock today (or so it turned out) was Wansford Lock. A large sluice controlled weir was built just where an upper lock landing might be expected. Instead, boats stop a distance back from the lock on a sharp bend with no sightline of the lock. Still, it is electric so we can forgive most things! Christine took a punt on when to leave the landing, had to wait a little while for the lock to finish filling but then came in without touching either side. Surprisingly, the name board here, and at Yarwell, has a black background whilst all the others before have a white one. New styling?

Wansford has three bridges. The first, the most splendid in appearance, dates from about 1600 and carried the Great North Road. It has a total of 12 arches but most were too camera shy.

By the early part of the 20C it was increasingly a bottleneck and a new bypass was built in 1928 with the bridge constructed in the new fashion of mass concrete. The names of the local highway authorities on each bank are indented into the structure.

That too became insufficient and another crossing opened in 1975 to carry a southbound carriageway, leaving the earlier bypass to provide for northbound vehicles.

Wansford Pumping Station tales water from the Nene and transports it to Rutland Water 12 miles north west for drinking supplies.

Stibbington Boatyard is a recent development where there was previously a boat builder P W Buckle. We could not see any sign of the boatyard and the rest of the development seemed to be in an uncertain state. However, other than a short reference to OwnerShips Google yielded little evidence. Anyone know more?

And so to Wansford Station where we planned to stop at least for lunch if not longer. If we could find a space, that is. Just before passing under the Nene Valley railway bridge we could see that the whole of the short pontoon was free. But then, as we were almost alongside we realised that a boat coming the other way was heading to the same pontoon. We both took it gingerly as the space is limited but the other boat, a vintage sea going vessel, was much shorter and we both fitted comfortably, albeit with no space to spare!

By now we had decided to stay here tonight as the next possible mooring, Ferry Meadows, is at least 2.5 hours away. It was certainly our fall back if we could not moor at Wansford Station and offers a lot more pontoon room.

There was no regular service on the Nene Valley today - yesterday would have felt very different! However, they were running a series of special Deltic No 55009 Alycidon Driving Experience sessions - 1 hour on the footplate at £450 per person (Only two allowed on any trip) 

Late afternoon Mike walked up to the station and took a series of photos. Let them speak for themselves!

The main station building dates from 1885 but designed to reflect the style of the times when the line opened 150 years earlier. (The extension on the left came in 2011)

9.4 Miles - 4 Locks