Foxton

Today's Canal : Grand Union Leicester Branch

Although still quite chilly, most of today was bright and sunny. As soon as we set off we passed through Welford Junction for the third time on this trip. At this stage grey clouds dominated over the sunshine.

However, by the time we passed the entrance to North Kilworth Marina, blue skies were much in evuidence.

Between the marina and the wharf we passed this very short boat. It seems top be cultivating a garden around its waterline on a long fender!

We had thought about stopping North Kilworth Wharf to fill up our fuel tank as it advertises diesel. Whilst it has a pump it has a new new sign No Diesel. Perhaps they only have sufficient for their small hire fleet as the sign does look new and temporary. Just as well we were not in urgent need!

The canalside vegetation gradually crowded in as we approach Husbands Bosworth Tunnel.

We were followed into the tunnel by another boat with perhaps the brightest bow light we have ever encountered. It would be rather unpleasant if steering an oncoming boat. As it was, just the briefest glances backwards left Mike dazzled for some time. Fortunately the tunnel is wide and straight.

The tunnels around here seem now to be giving much more realistic transit times and again we emerged right on schedule.

Christine is very insistent that we show just how abundant the white May blossom is at the moment - so a double dose!

Someone had kindly provided a herb box on the towpath - there was no indication of who the benefactor was.

This house on a slight hill top was visible for some distance. We took a photo hoping that it might turn out to be somewhere with a history but we later discovered that it is quite modern!

This pair of swans looks as if they are preparing to be a family very soon. How many cygnets will they have and how many will survive until next spring?

We had made better progress this morning than expected and so decided that we would attempt to descend the famous Foxton Locks today, so long as there was no lengthy queue. On the final run in to the lock landing we passed this bronze statue of Dolly a symbol of the  once ubiquitous means of haling goods along the canal. As was the practice in the times, young boys were expected to work from an early age, frequently as the lead for the boat horse.

When we reached the top lock there was not a single boat waiting! When Christine went to book in with the lock keepers she was told that we could go in immediately but would have to wait at the middle passing pound for a group of three that had just set off from the bottom. (Another boat that arrived whilst we were in the top lock was not so lucky as there is only room for one boat in the passing pound and they would have to wait for the upcoming boats to clear the top section) Alongside the top lock is another bronze statue of former canal life.

There was a good crew on - three for each half staircase. As we had the top half to ourselves we had plenty of help and came down very quickly. 

One of the volunteers pulled us firmly to the bank in the central pound so that the up boats could pass across without stopping. Here came the first and the other two followed in quick succession.

Overall we had just under half an hour to wait before we recommenced our descent.

From the top of this section there is an excellent view down to the bottom level - helped by the bright sunshine! We left the bottom lock just over an hour and a half from arriving at the top.

At the junction below the flight we turned sharp right towards Market Harborough. Before going any further we pulled in to avail ourselves of the elsan disposal facility. When we set off again Christine opted to do the swing bridge (so long as Mike attended to unlocking it!) leaving him to tackle the awkward manoeuvre to pass through the bridge hole.

In the event there were three willing volunteers taking photos of themselves on the bridge who happily opened and closed the bridge for us.

Our plans for the next few days are based on the need to have a good internet signal as Christine has a Zoom meeting just after lunch tomorrow. We were concerned to ensure we moored in the right place after having had two stops with almost no signal at all. We also have scheduled a Saturday supermarket shop in Market Harborough and possibly church in town on Sunday. The outcome of our deliberations is that we moored for lunch at the first available visitor mooring after the swing bridge. Having found that at least one phone network offered an adequate signal (at least today!) we stayed here for the rest of the day. We will possibly take a look at the Canal Museum alongside the locks and stay at least until after the Zoom has completed. We may then move closer to the town and proceed as planned thereafter. In any event, our tentative trip plan has the flexibility of a few spare days when we do not have to move at all. Any canal trip over four weeks rarely keeps entirely to plan although we have not fared too badly for the first week.

8.1 Miles - 10 Locks

Welford Junction

Today's Canals : Grand Union Leicester Branch, Welford Arm

We started the day slowly (despite waking just before 7!) and first walked up to the village shop a short distance away. 

The route took us first through the small Welford Pocket Park. We first discovered this some years ago and it is especially pleasing to see that it is still well maintained by a band of volunteers, meeting every first Sunday in the spring and summer months. Too often such projects are well funded to create them but little thought is given to the long term maintenance.

Several features are aimed at encouraging small wildlife - a couple of small ponds are just the place for some! 

There is a Beetle Retreatle also meant to be a hotel for bees, moths and butterflies.

"I'm a dead hedge" is a refuge for small mammals, tiny birds and many insects.

Just after leaving the park we came across Postman pat again - we last reported on him in 2015 as well as in 2010. He has had an even more recent face life and a change of colour for his uniform and a splendid base on which to stand! But he does seem to have taken on a much less rugged appearance . . .

The small village shop is well stocked and we were able to find most of the things on our list - mainly a top up as the larders are still well packed! Opposite the shop is this splendid Salford House. As yet we have not been able to track down its origins but it seems now to be a large 8 bedroom Airbnb holiday let.

On the way back to the boat we took a look at the former lime kilns that were one of the important trade users of the canal in its early days. Christine was especially struck by the short history of found on the information boards nearby. See here for some detail.

We then turned the boat around in the winding hole opposite our mooring so that we could fill up from the water point almost at the very end of the arm.

It was well after midday before we finally left Welford for a short 2 mile run back to the junction where we hoped to find a better mobile signal (we should have read our blog from the last time we moored there as the signal was poor then!) At least it was long enough to fully charge our battery.

Welford Marina has two separate sets of moorings, one either side of the canal, The first is are are of pontoons open to the edge of the canal (along with the dry dock in the previous photo)

The second is a much more enclosed area with a narrow exit.

After dropping down the single lock - which was empty as we could see a boat just leaving - we continued to the junction where we reversed several boat lengths to a mooring. The convenient moorings with rings were all but occupied. We were able to tie the bow rope to the end ring but, for the first time in a long while, we had to get out a lump hammer and pin for the other end.

2.0 Miles - 1 Lock

Welford Wharf

Today's Canals : Grand Union Leicester Section

The weather today was slightly better than advertised, with quite a few patches of blue skies and, when it did emerge, the sun was pleasantly warm.

We passed this glamping site - the two lodges looked quite smart but we missed a photo opportunity!

In the past we have noted in our blog that oil seed rape seems to be a popular crop in this area. The fields are often comparatively large as with this one that seems to disappear in the distance.

Underneath the A1e4 road bridge is a substantial recent-looking tag: 808 FUGE. Seems to be quite a prolific graffiti artist in the London area, or it may be a set of such artists. You will understand that this is definitely not our specialist subject!

We noticed that an effort has been made to reconstruct a towpath side hedge that had obviously been neglected and hence overgrown. Much of the growth had become small trees which had to be cut down. The twiggier stuff was partially cut through and laid conventionally but this was not enough to make a stock-proof hedge so spaces had been infilled with cut up lengths of the large branches.

We are often amused, sometimes wryly, with the slogans that folk paint on the sides of their boats- not to mention some of the names! This one definitely amused and we could empathise with the owners.

Yet another yellow field but we were a little surprised by how steep a hill it climbs We wondered how much extra fuel costs are needed when cultivating this crop. We later discovered from the information boards at Welton that this is Downtown Hill where Lord Braye of  Stanford Hall planted a rectangular block of 80m trees forming the date 1883, shown on OS maps at the start of the 20C.

Some time in the past there was an interesting project to install 'living mile stones' along the long pound between Watford and Foxton locks. When we came this way last, about 5 years ago, they were showing signs that nothing had been thought about their long term maintenance. Sadly this deterioration has continued and most we failed to spot. The signs blend into their background and the writing is indistinguishable.

When we arrived at the junction with the short Welford Arm it was early enough to reach the end by lunch time - so long as there is mooring space when we get there. In addition, Christine had identified a place to eat out tonight - the Wharfside Inn.  Normally we would say that we will report on this in tomorrow's blog but as there is no internet available to us on the moorings at the wharf we may just combine it before we are able to upload!

The arm has a single lock, possible designed to protect the water supply from the local reservoirs from changes in  the level of the long summit pound. A single hander had just come down and was moored on the lock landing. He kindly went back to open the gates so that we could cruise straight in. It is not a deep lock so Mike could get onto the lock side from the boat. The lock is not as ergonomically designed as many - there is only one top paddle which is arguably on the 'wrong' side. The only way across the gate is via a large step up onto the top of the balance beam, no foot board to make life easier!

From here it was a short distance to the terminus. After passing the entrance to the small marina we were a little concerned about space: the two in the real end of the original wharf were occupied and several were tied up on the towpath 2 day moorings. It was a relief to find that we could just fit in at almost the last space before we would have had to turn around in the terminal winding hole"!

After lunch, whilst Christine went to check out the pub for tonight Mike had one or two chores to complete (empty elsan and food waste bin). In the process he discovered that one of the spare elsan blue bottles in the bow locker had leaked! It was only at the end of the last trip that we disposed of the previous empty bottle which would have been very handy to decant into.

The Wharf Inn provides good quality pub food - we both opted for braised lamb which was very tasty and thoroughly well cooked. The downside was that the quantity was such that we just could not manage a dessert - shame, as they selection otherwise looked very tempting!

We were not able to post this blog yesterday as there was no mobile signal at Welton Wharf on either of our networks. After mooring at the junction the next day we did manage but it took a while as the signal was still intermittent.

8.8 Miles - 1 Lock

Winwick

Today's Canal - Grand Union Leicester Branch

The weather today seems to confirm that the months of May and April appear to have swapped places in the climate calendar. Just a few brief sunny spells interrupted the monotonous grey skies and chilly temperatures.

Last night Mike failed to spot the half-mile distance marker that he had previously recorded close to our mooring spot. Before leaving he went to look for it - and take a better close up photo - initially looking in the wrong direction only to discover it was directly opposite out center line! However there is now much more vegetation and he had to remove a little to gain a clear view of the sign.

We were late setting up this morning, thanks in part to Mike having had a wakeful patch around 2 am, then sleeping in a  chair for three hours only to find that it was all but 8 o'clock when he finally got up! In the end it was after 10:30 before we started to cast off.

Very soon we passed under a railway bridge that carries the electrified line through Northampton. It leaves the West Coat Main Line near Blisworth and rejoins it at Hillmorton. It is one of the two railway bridges that we featured in our 1st May blog. It was included in the electrification plan to provide additional capacity for slower passenger and freight traffic. This, of course, interacts with the main arguments for HS2 (possibly!)

Shortly after we entered Crick Tunnel. Another straight, two-way tunnel that only gushes water down the steerers neck about 75m from the northern end. We took just over the advertised 15 minutes passage, due mostly to the four oncoming boats that we had to pass.

Crick, immediately after the tunnel, has two marinas. First is the very small Crick Wharf Marina. At one tome ABNB, a canal boat brokerage known for its stylish brochures, was based here but they have now moved up the canal to North Kilworth.

At one time there was a thriving cafe in the old wharf buildings but that has closed. Today the area is being used to crane new boats onto the water.

Just beyond the A428 road bridge is the much larger Crick Marina, now part of the growing Aquavista group. It even has three separate entrances and is home gto the annual Crick Boat Show at the end of May Bank Holiday. Soon the canal will be very busy with many boats arriving to take part but as yet it was still quiet with lots of mooring available.

Crack's Hill is a prominent landmark with a lot of history. It is understood that the Romans used it as a sentry point for Watling Street which passes nearby. There is also said to be evidence of an earlier Iron Age Fort.

We were now heading out into the countryside with few nearby villages or even hamlets. The next few miles are very much a contour canal - the summit pound between Watford and Foxton Locks is 23 miles in length and includes a short arm up to the village of Welford, mainly as a feeder from the Welford and Sulby reservoirs to keep the pound topped up. (A lot of water is also pumped up below the Watford flight from the Main Line)

Yelvertoft Marina offers around 150 spaces in quite isolated open countryside. It opened in 2010 after many years in  the planning. We have called there in the past for diesel but we are not yet ready for that this time.

We opted to stop just after  Bridge 24 as we spotted some armco complete with rings. It was also now 1 o'clock and lunchtime. (We only used one ring as the spacing was not suitable for our length but the armco readily took a goat chain)

The nearest place is Winwick, a tiny hamlet that Wikipedia describes as 'a lost settlement' with perhaps a  couple of dozen houses. There is a manor house nearby and the parish church is still in use with one evening service a month. Some of the history of Winwick can be found  here and here.

5.9 Miles - 0 Locks

Watford (Gap)

Today's Canals : Grand Union Main Line, Leicester Branch

Today was a generally grey but with some very brief sunny spells and no rain.

As our overnight mooring shows, there had been quite a bit of rain since we moored up yesterday but by the time we were out and about it had stopped.

We have photographed the former lock cottage alongside the Top Lock (just poking into the left of the photo) many times before but until not really noticed that the cottage behind., Based on its house numbering, this was also a canal company property at one time, perhaps for a lengthsman as well as the one for a lock keeper. Just before we set off, Christine noticed that one of the volunteer lock keepers hse had had a unfinished conversation with yesterday was just helping boats through the top lock so she went to have a bit more of a chat. It transpired that he was once taught about handling a canal boat by Jack Monk, one of the last Number Ones. We knew him when we moored our tiny Fiona alongside Bishop Meadow Lock in Loughborough in the late 1960s. We too found him very willing to pass on his experience and expertise.

We were off just after 9:15 and soon after arrived at the entrance to Braunston Tunnel. This is a two way tunnel - unless a wide beam boat is booked (they are restricted to an early morning slot!)

The entrance sign suggests a transit time of 37 minutes (nearly always noticeable optimistic, some more than others) so it was no surprise that we emerged at the southern end some 25 minutes after setting off. We met only one boat coming the other way which we both managed to negotiate without incident! The tunnel is fairly dry apart from just one drenching only 50m from the exit!

The tunnel approach from the south is a straight tree-lined section which is very pleasant.

Forty minutes later we arrived at Norton Junction where we had to make a very sharp turn left to face almost the same direction in which we had just come! We were  now entering the Leicester Section of the Grand Union. A former Toll House stands guard over the junction, catching boats in every direction to pay their dues.

Passing under the modern A5 road bridge we had one of the better sunny spells of the day.

The former pub, now South Asian Restaurant, by the Welton Station road bridge now features 'pod dining'. Their futuristic eating spaces (a development from former Covid measures?) cost £35 to book (on top of the costs of the meal!) Presumably they are a good source of income but, judging by some reviews, not everyone is convinced.

We were now fast approaching the noisy M1 our first glimpse is just a small field away from the canal.

And so we arrive at the bottom of the Watford flight of locks. Nearby is the famous Watford Gap Service station where in the early days of motorway driving, many folk came to see what the first of this new generation was like in 1959. It became for a while a place to spot famous rock and pop groups. Alas, it did not take too long before the glamour wore off and it was realised that this was just a way of charging high prices for very ordinary fare and most drivers will stay here only as long as it takes.

Christine went to book in with the lock keepers - woe betide any boater that tries to transit without so doing! The bottom two and the top lock are conventional single locks, albeit with short intervening pounds, but the middle four form a staircase and are all designed for narrow boats (ie max 7 ft beam) Boats cannot pass each other in the staircase and may also have difficulty in the short pounds. Hence the lock keepers operate a strict flow control trying to minimise the waiting times whilst also allowing as many boats through as possible. At busy times long queues can form. Whilst waiting our turn we managed to catch a small patch of blue sky in the background of the former bottom lock cottage.

We had to work through the first lock on our own but as as soon as we set off for the second lock we could see that a volunteer lock keeper was already opening the gates for us. He was able to make life a lot easier for us all the way to the top.

The staircase locks have side ponds to maintain a proper supply of water to each chamber as boats pass through. There are two paddles at each of the intermediate gates that connect the lock with its side pond. The red paddle must be opened first - "red before white and you'll be alright - white before red and you'll soon be dead" or at least in serious trouble with the lock keeper for wasting water and potentially flooding the towpath and lock surround.

At one time the locks were left for boater use when the keepers were not on duty but now they are locked up so boaters must make sure they arrive in good time or they will have qa night in the shadow and sound of the M1.

After completing the seven locks we stopped at the top for a 'full service'. Officially the toilets have now been closed in accordance with the new facilities policy (to avoid funding expensive features that are not really CaRT responsibilities, such as showers, toilets, laundry machines and dog bins) but there has been a delay in changing the door lock as the toilets are still needed for the volunteers!

Immediately after the locks we passed under the M1 which now gradually moves away to the west of the canal.

A couple of bridges later, just far enough for the road noise to diminish - it takes some distance for it to disappear altogether - we moored for lunch and the rest of the day.

5.9 Miles - 7 Locks