Leicester, Upperton Road

Today's Navigations : Grand Union Leicester Branch, River Soar

Still uncertain about Mike's recovery, our plan today was to do a minimum of three locks, ideally five and super optimistically eight to take us into Leicester and its Straight Mile.

The day began brightly as can be seen in this picture of our very quiet overnight mooring.

Unfortunately we were heading almost directly away from the sun and so we could not often get any 'proper' pictures when underway.

This was really a photo for our reference library of a winding hole but it does show the bright blue sky rather nicely!

As we set off we suspected that a another boat was on is way down as we could see a definite and short lived rise in the flow rate. Noting appeared as we arrived at the first lock and set about preparing it. Hooray, before we could actually descend we could see a boat just coming around a far bend. We are not normally fussed about sharing or not sharing but today lock companions would be appreciated. Alas, after starting tom help us they revealed that were actually in a pair with another boat following on behind. So the remaining locks we had to do just with our own resources - or those we could recruit!

Someone has recently installed some potentially attractive raised beds alongside Whetstone Lane Lock. Let's hope that some of the keen gardeners amongst the volunteers are able to keep it looking attractive. In days gone by, many lock keepers prided themselves on their lock side plots, competing with others on the same canal for Best Lock.

Beyond this lock are the remains of a bridge on the former Great Central Railway Line which, at a time, was an important travel link in this part of the country, offering some of the best and fastest journeys into London. Alas it closed in 1960 as part of the rationalisations of the network, just at a time when road traffic was becoming ever more popular. Some parts have been re-incorporated into the modern network and the section through Loughborough operates as a heritage railway. Here the track bed has become a popular cycle and foot path. We will meet the line again later today!

We were delighted at one lock to find a young couple out walking their dog who took an interest in how locks work. We managed to inveigle the man into doing all the work at this lock, top and bottom. (He did not take a lot of persuasion!) His partner was very interested in the history and today's operations.

King's Lock is where we first meet some direct connection with the River Soar that has not  been far away for a while. One clue is the navigation warning board that indicates that the next section may flood at times.

Here is where part of the river water joins in, although the rest continues an independent channel alongside. We felt we were doing rather well and so opted to continue on into the city even if that meant a late-ish lunch 

It's that railway again!

We were looking forward to seeing a feature at Aylestone Mill Lock that we remembered from our. previous passages through. This is how it looked in 2021.

Alas, we do not know what  has happened but this is how it looks today.

Much of the canal along this next part, was at one time heavily industrialised. St Mary's Mill Lock is so named on account of the nearby factory mill. Some form of mill has been here since medieval times but by 1900, the OS Map indicates and India Rubber works. The John Bull Rubber Company tyre making business, founded in 1906, became part of Dunlop until the 1970s. Sadly, this was not the company that made the John Bull Printing Outfits, beloved of many children in the 1920s to 1950s. That came from the Charter Stamp Company in London and satisfied the interests of those youngsters who could not afford another product from the same company, the Adana Printing Press (see)

And finally to our eighth lock for today: Freeman's Meadow Lock, well known for being adjacent to an intimidating looking weir. In normal flow condition as there is little water over the crest of the weir and little danger of boats being pulled towards it from the lock approach. Nevertheless the row of protective dolphins is reassuring!

Alongside the lock stands the Leicester City Football Club ground. Sadly they are about to be demoted to EFL League One from the Championship, a far cry from their famous FA Cup Final victory of 2021. So much for naming the stadium King Power (after its sponsor, a Thai retail travel company)

We continued only a short distance to moor at an excellent set of bollards just after towpath bridge over the Old River Soar, which maintains its own identity until north of the city. 

A busy rowing club is based just around the corner - we saw plenty of craft out with their crews (from 1 to 8) practising on the Straight Mile both this afternoon and tomorrow morning.

After a late launch and a recuperation we did what we moored here specially to do - to do a major restock of our food stores from Lidl, a few minutes walk away from Upperton Bridge. Opposite the supermarket is the repurposed former Grand Central Railway Wagon Repair Shop. Built in late 19C, it fuelled a major expansion of the company into London, with a consequential growth in the transport of goods from the manufacturing companies around Leicester. The site was a substantial range of buildings, workshops of many different trades. Most have now been demolished, giving way to the major expansion of student accommodation in this part of the city - de  Montfort Uni is nearby. However, this one building survives.

5.0 Miles - 8 Locks

Glen Parva

Today's Canal : Grand Union Leicester Branch

Today's weather was much improved, albeit still on the chilly side. There was plenty of blue sky tom be seen even if only in patches.

We moored overnight opposite Kilby Bridge Wharf - the above photo shows not only the wharf but also our mooring.

The wharf still has its old crane. Several work boats live here when not working.

Thanks to Mike having to be woken by an unplanned alarm (he usually wakes around 7, but it was set accidentally!) we were quite late setting off, around 10:30. Today was to be a test of how well his injuries are mending - quite well in some parts, less in others. The plan, then was to do at least 2 locks and see how we go.

Shortly after leaving the wharf we had a low tech reminder of how far we have to go to the centre of Leicester. Better get a move on . . . 

First lock - Kilby Lock. Good news: wonderful sky. Bad news: you can just make out in the photo but one bottom gate open. Not only does this mean the lock is against us but also it is on the wrong side. This, sadly, is a characteristic of this section of the canal.

Before Mike could actually shut the gate a family of swans with 10 cygnets had smuggled itself into the chamber. It was clear that the parents knew just what they were doing as they immediately corralled their brood just below the top  gates where the waited impatiently. Just as soon as there was enough of a gap they were through and off up the upper pound.

The next lock, Double Rail, has a much older mechanisms for holding the paddles in the open position even though a more common ratchet and pawl is also provided.

We have not seen anything on the internet to confirm why this lock its particular name. However, the bottom gates have hand rails on the up and down sides, unusual on this canal. 

The commoner design can be seen at the next lock.

We have been in open countryside for over a week, except when in Market Harborough. However, soon after Ervin's Lock we had our first glimpse of the amalgamation of small towns and villages that have extended the city of Leicester so far outwards.

A little further we passed over a stream with a complex culvert which allows a small tributary to join its parent, the River Sence a short distance away.

Just after Crow Mills Bridge our maps indicate a mooring opportunity but it seemed more like the remains of a former bridge, so we pressed on. The bridge originally carried the Midland Counties railway that ran between Leicester and Rugby as part of a scheme to link up several larger Midland towns and cities. Alas it was closed in the early 1960s, even before Dr Beeching sharpened his famous axe. If it has survived it would have made the car shuffle journey back to Brinklow much simpler.

These signs were clearly visible long before we passed them. We had dreams of an unplanned refreshment stop but unfortunately they seemed to be part of a determined collectors display!

Our fourth lock today, Bush Lock, met the standard: the offside bottom gate was wide open.

We have been minimising effort today, especially crossing over gates. As a result we have generally been only opening paddles on one side. The time to fill made longer in two case, including here, as the gate paddles have been removed. Still, it gives more time for meditation! 

As we left the lock, the offside gate opened itself and shortly after we looked back and saw that the gate we had used - and closed - was also now open!

Across the fields to our left we could see Blaby Mill. Its origins date back to the Doomsday Book but the mill is thought to have been constructed as a water corn mill, powered by the River Sence, in the mid 18C. It has been a substantial stables for at least the last three decades and was on the market last year seeking a new owner. Price not listed!

Shortly after Knights bridge the next mooring opportunity arrived which turned out to be a good length of armco and surprisingly quiet.

2.6 Miles - 4 Locks

Kilby Bridge Wharf

Today's Canal : Grand Union Leicester Branch

Mike had a good sleep after the 3 am break - Christine not so and she spent a bit of time working out a possible Plan B on the basis that Mike would need to go to hospital straight away and that we would not be able to navigate the boat very far on our own.

When he awoke Mike was most surprised to find that his ankle was very much better (but not 'better') The wrist was on the mend but the calf muscle was still being uncomfortable. The main thing was that none of the injuries was actively painful, only was put to work. That was definitely not the case at bedtime yesterday. 

Our trip plan does have several spare days in it and we quickly decided that this  was one of them! We had a very restful morning and Mike could feel things working on mending themselves. In the circumstances we did not think it worth pushing  the Go button on Plan B - yet!

After lunch we set a target of getting at least as far as Kilby Bridge Wharf to do the regular servicing. Going any further, two locks max, would depend on how well that exercise went.

Just after 2.30 we prepared to cast off and we were on our way - at least 0.7 miles. That process went well although we did use both of us to minimise the walking to and fro for Mike. It was by now a very pleasant afternoon - only the very occasional shower AND NO HAIL!.

Twenty minutes later we arrived at the wharf and tied up. On with the hosepipe, where is the elsan facility, Oh, round the back with no direction sign. two cassettes done. In  the meantime Christine had put on a load of laundry - which meant that at one stage the level was not increasing at all but eventually the tank was full to overflowing. She also helped to fill up the refuse bins - late afternoon we could watch them being emptied!

Also, by now we had decided to go no further today. Discretion the better option, quit while you are ahead etc etc (choose your own saying/cliche) Not that we could actually stay on the wharf but there is an excellent long visitor mooring directly opposite with bollards. There was a slight delay as Mike stopped to chat to a member of CaRT staff who looks after the section from here down hill and also three reservoirs.

Although it was a bit tiring, Mike was very pleased that he was able to complete at least this target for the day without undue discomfort - only rather slowly.

Understandably there are very few photos today and it was only when we came to preparing this blog that we realised that we had not taken any of the wharf itself. Alas by then the sunshine had disappeared so hopefully we will be able to rectify the omission before we leave tomorrow.

0.7 Miles - 0 Locks

Kilby Bridge (Almost)

Today's Canal : Grand Union Leicester Branch

The weather forecast for today, as for a lot of the canal network judging by other folk's blogs - was not pleasant reading. The expectation was that each hour period would have some sunshine and some rain - the latter high probability - and cold and quite breezy. In each respect that forecast was quite correct. What it did not anticipate was just how heavy the rain showers would be and, more significant, that many would bring very unpleasant hail!

When we set off we were over complacent! In past few days, similar forecasts had brought quite light showers. Our overnight mooring, whilst quite close to the main railway line between Market Harborough and Leicester, did not really disturb us day or night. Sun was shining and plenty of blue patches were showing through.

e had about a mile and a half to the top of today's lock flight. One landmark we were looking out for was Wistow Church, clearly visible across a couple of bright yellow fields. By now we had had a taste of the showers - and some very dark clouds.

As we arrived at the top lock we saw that there was a boat just starting to come up - turned out that it was the boat we had moored next to last night who had talked to us about the electrical problems they were having. They were quite concerned as several phone calls had drawn a blank in finding help. We asked for an update and it seemed that all was now well. All that had been needed was to disconnect the system from its power source and let it do a proper reset! Same as our heater problem . . . 

Really heavy rain was now with us and it quickly turned to hail. By the time we had descended the lock it was very uncomfortable and, with no more traffic in the offing we tied to the lower lock landing until it blew over.

During this rain storm our camera phone (not a live phone but an earlier one we use for just this purpose) seemed to have suffered from moisture despite being kept in a pocket and the consequence can be seen in the above photo - everywhere as if it was bathed in mist! Hence no further pictures.

One hail storm, four or five locks down, and covered us in white - the photo from Christine' s phone (safely kept inside!) barely does justice to the extent.

After passing through the Half Mile Pound and the aptly named Bottom Half Mile Lock, we approached the sixth of seven locks planned for today - we aimed to moor up at Kilby Bridge where we should find a full range of facilities, water being a priority.

As we neared the top lock landing the ground just before looked a little insecure especially after  all the hail so we went as close to the lock as we could, thinking this looked safer. Mike picked out a spot to step off and did so gingerly - but, in the event, not spotting either a pothole or other hazard. As soon as he was on the bank his feet slipped from under him and he was flat on his back with his feet in the water! He was able to get back up again and, apart from feeling a little shaken, thought that there was no real damage. Limping only a little he was able to work our boat through the last two locks of the day.

It was by now well after 2 o'clock and we were keen on lunch so we stopped at the next available mooring location just short of Kilby Bridge.

Alas, during the break in cruising it soon became apparent that a little more damage had been done than first seemed to be the case. Right ankle and calf muscle, together with left wrist, all started to complain. Indeed, you could call it painful even after the application of diclofenac gel - along with plenty of tlc.

We both woke around 3 am with lots of Plan B 's buzzing around. At this stage - everything feels a disaster in the middle of the night! - Mike was convinced that at least his ankle, and possibly his wrist, had been fractured. Remember, that this ankle was really and truly damaged in 2007 with it taking many weeks of less than comfortable recovery. The ankle has so many steel pins left in it that it ought to have been immune to any unnatural forces being applied to it.

Over a cup of tea - the best comfort for any troubles - Mike consulted NHS 111 Online. After entering answers to many questions (was I under 5?), had I broken the skin? all that it could suggest was that he make an appointment at Loughborough Urgent Care Centre, 22 miles away! It did give Leicester Hospital A&E as a backup, but expect quite a wait! We guessed that walking wounded do not figure after triage. The was no obvious way, safe a long taxi ride, to get to Loughborough and although A&E was much closer public transport going into the city centre and then back out to the outskirts. Well, it was no use trying to make a decision at this stage and we would be better to see how things felt in the morning.

Oh, and the teaser we left you with at the end of yesterday's blog about the radiator key? We never did find it, despite recalling seeing it recently, but in the process discovered (yet again) that they need a flat screwdriver and that the stubby one in the toolbox had been bought especially for this task after the last time we has a radiator problem! With the radiators all bled and the header tank topped up, we were again being heated properly!

3.2 Miles - 7 Locks

Glen Aqueduct (Wistow)

Today's Canal : Grand Union Leicester Branch

We awoke to feel surprisingly cold. Our heating controller is set to come on at 6.30 so by the time we usually start to make a move at 7.00 the cabins are comfortably warm. Mike checked that he had not forgotten his weekly chore of setting the timers (this controller, strangely, is 'one-shot' and so has to be reset each week) Yes, the green light was showing but it was also apparent that no heat was coming through. A second attempt to start the heater indicated it was initiating a start cycle but then shitting down. Looks like a cool wash this morning!

Over our wake-up mugs of tea we contemplated our options. There turned out not to be too many as, having left Debdale an hour behind us, the is little maintenance or service offered until after Leicester. We looked at the Webasto web site for service engineers - none very close but at least one that offers a mobile service from perhaps 20 miles away. Not looking good.

Mike then remembered from a few years back when something similar happened on our Shakedown Cruise from Droitwich to Worcester. When we called at the marina in Worcester they simply pulled put a fuse to disconnect the power supply to the Webasto, waited a short while and then put it back. This seemed to do the trick. Mike quickly dressed (he did not fancy working down in the engine bay in pyjamas, even his second - third? - best ones!) Yes! After re-inserting the fuse there was definitely warmth coming from the exhaust outlet. Gradually the radiators started to warm up although not yet as hot as they had been.

Next, he checked the header tank as on another occasion this had been diagnosed as causing a problem. We had checked this a few days ago and thought that the level was close to Max. It seemed still to be so but after finding a short stick in the adjacent towpath hedge to act as a dipstick, it was clear that what we had thought to be the water level was just a permanent tide mark and the tank was much emptier. After tracking down a funnel (yes, we have all sorts of tools and gadgets secreted away in the far recesses of the boat's cupboards!) we managed to bring the level up, conformed by the dipstick - the tide mark was still in the same place! We did turn on the engine to make sure that Christine could have a good shower but tentatively we felt that we might be close to back on track but that perhaps bleeding the radiators might also help. Now, where is that radiator key?

All that faffing about meant that is was not until 10:15 that we could think about moving. Today was even cooler than yesterday but at least the morning was dry. We are still in the SSSI and so all too frequently we had to negotiate quite narrow spaces between the towpath reeds meds and the offside tree vegetation hanging down. At least one pair of swans found that this have them an even safer nesting place than most. This must have encouraged them to be unusually aggressive to passing walkers and their dogs as CaRT had put up warning notices either side of the nesting site!

Shortly before Saddington Tunnel a feeder brings in a water supply to the canal from Saddington Reservoir, about a kilometre away to the south west. The latest published report indicates that it is 100% full.

After the earlier shenanigans, paranoia must have set in: as soon as Mike switched on the bow light ahead of the tunnel he thought that he could not see the light in the switch (remember, that this was the one problem we had right at the outset of the trip) and his concern was heightened as he could not see the light in the tunnel at first! Fortunately it was only paranoia and not another crisis! At least we could see that there was only one boat in the tunnel and that was going the same way. Yes, the dot in the photo is the light at the other end!

And to add to our new-found joy, bright sunshine emerged.

By 11:15 we were at Kibworth Top Lock. The substantial lock cottage (or was it for a more senior person) is in the process of having a significant new extension added. Looking at Google Sat View it may well be that an earlier lifed-out structure was first demolished.

As we rounded the corner to the lock we saw that another boat was waiting and we 'assumed' that we could share with them. They were a group of six men, all long time friends from school and college days who used to share canal hire boats but have not done so for 12 years. As a result we expended rather less energy in descending the five Kibworth locks.

The second lock had bottom gates that were especially difficult to close. (Mike felt smug when he closed his much ahead of the other one!)

Alongside the middle lock is Bridge House Barn. It style itself both as a wedding venue and a place to host events. However, a new promotional banner at the road entrance is advertising Sunday events for general public with a Balearic theme! It must be a very new ideas they have yet to get around to putting on their web site.

If we did not think better we might have imagined that Balearic mean something to do with tipis! Mind you, these look a bit posh for the North American plains!

After the fourth lock, Mike forgot that the final lock in the flight is actually about 700 m away! Two of the crew from the other boat also walked but overtook him by some margin.

They were continuing to the next flight but not going to go much further as they need to be careful about timing their return to Napton. We explained that we were looking for out next night's stopover before the next flight, so we bade them farewell.

Our plan for the next few days takes us to Leicester some 24 locks down to the River Soar. Alas, our reminiscences of past trips when we did 20 locks in a day (as well as 20 miles) are now but a dream and more prosaically we have based our trip plan on dividing up this section into probably five days, all but one of five locks or fewer . . . so long as no more technical hitches intervene. We do have a few days slack in the calculations . . .

Now where did that radiator key go?

3.5 Miles - 5 Locks

Smeeton Westerby

Today's Canals : Market Harborough Arm, Grand Union Leicester Branch

We awoke to find a very grey day which, by the time we were ready to start the departure process had turned wet, albeit only a fine drizzle for the most part. We needed to take on more water before leaving as there will be no certain option later on. (There is a water point at Foxton Junction but it is often occupied by boats that are either waiting to get the call to enter he bottom lock or who have been confused by the ambiguous signage about mooring)

Once the tank was full we could begin to stow way the hosepipe which we had left out on the roof for this refill. A visit to the waste disposal bins followed but the elsan unit remains closed so we will have to stop for this chore when we pass through Foxton.

We were then ready to leave - our mooring had been the one just to the right of the two Braidbar boats with the mouse-ear stern door decoration.

This huge hedge at the canal side end of one house's garden caught our attention. We can only assume that they particularly treasure their privacy. (We also reported on it on our last visit in 2018 but the excuse for repeating it is to say that this time we realised that we would not want to be the person who keeps the foliage in such good trim as the space between the hedge and the water is rather narrow!)

Almost at the edge of town one proud home owner is trying to outdo (or at least out spend) their neighbours with a substantial professional re-modelling of the canal end of their garden. Let's hope that they find both the time and the sunshine to enjoy it once completed.

At Bowden Hall we took a closer look after researching it for Saturday's blog. We could now see the buildings on the opposite side of the road which seems may have been part of the farm and estate at one time. Perhaps the reason we overlooked it on the way in was that the restoration of the canal-side building was so detailed and 'perfect' that at a glance it seems as if it is a recent modern build!

At the swing road bridge close to Foxton we struck lucky as a boat had just come through and was starting to close the bridge when they spotted us and very kindly let us through. We could not even get off and offer to help!

We again paused alongside the swing footbridge to make use of the elsan point.

At the junction we turned right to continue en route to Leicester. The long established Vagabond trip boat moors just after the turnover bridge. Whilst its trips are still advertised on the web, we wonder from its condition if it has perhaps been retired. Since it was built in 1972, perhaps it is entitled to take life a bit easier now!

We suddenly spotted some blue sky - there were some really pleasant breaks over the next couple of hours although greyness was never far away. The temperature remained on the chillier side of cool.

After our failure to top up our diesel tank at North Kilworth we were now quite keen to do so and called at Debdale Marina. Also, whilst competing the cooking of our roast dinner last night we had to change over gas bottles. The marina was busy today. As we turned in they were just completing the transfer of one boat from the water onto a trailer. Another was expected imminently to be lifted onto the hard standing and we were asked to keep clear (this meant we could not access the fuel point at first) and wait until staff were available to serve us. So, we started to prepare our lunch and, of course, as soon as our baguettes were ready we were given a call. Fuel remains expensive at £1.38 a litre (plus propulsion duty at a declared proportion) and the gas bottle was £43.33.

We could not hang around (although Mike did manage to finish his lunch) ass yet another boat arrived wanting access to the service wharf and another was waiting to be moved out of the dry dock! Busy day . . .

As we have discovered before the SSSI status of this section of the canal means that moorings are infrequent so we were keen to find somewhere before they were all taken for the night - tunnel and locks are a thing for the morrow. 

This photo is included only to show that we did have some brighter spells!

The mooring just after bridge 70 already had four boats so it was fortunate that it is also surprisingly long. That did mean that what was left was the curved part so mooring comfortable took longer than usual.

8.1 Miles - 0 Locks