Wansford Station

Today's Navigation : River Nene

The day began on a very different note from the past couple of weeks. As well as being completely overcast sky and a strong breeze, if not wind, which meant that we felt somewhat chilly to start today's cruise.

Casting off - remember the problems we had yesterday when mooring? - was generally less fraught, despite the timid approach Mike made when crossing the gangplank! (No, you cannot see a photo!) Even though it was about 8:15, three other boats had already left the mooring, with only ourselves the late birds.

As we arrived at our first lock, a cruiser was tied up on the lock landing but the doors were open and the guillotine closed. It transpired that they were trying to correct some mechanical fault so we were able to go straight in. This was the last of the manual (Wheel!) locks but not only was this the smoothest but also the lady from the cruiser came to assist. Guess what, Mike forgot to take most of the usual pix at this lock. Will have to try harder on the return trip.

However he did note the unusual more formal bywash, running quite fast it seems. The very friendly people on the cruiser assured us that this was the last manual lock before Peterborough. Phew!

Next came Elton Lock. Some the very varied lists of manual Nene Locks suggested that this was still manual but, cheers, it is indeed electric.

Just after passing the village of Nassington we passed through the remains of the abutments for a former railway bridge. Not quite That railway but the Rugby and Peterborough branch line. Back on 30th April, we noted the start of the Rugby to Stanford railway, similarly closed by Beeching. Both were early developments from the 1840s. After it was first opened and had proven its success, its directors decided to link to Peterborough and joined up with the other line for the final section in to the town. They joined at Yarwell Junction,. now the western end of the Nene Valley Railway.

Yarwell Lock followed and, unusually, has a very good water point accessible only when on the upper lock landing!

The lock is alongside the former Yarwell Mill, still looking imposing. Beside that is  a large residential mobile home park aimed at people over 45, but it seemed to have a few pitches for touring vans.

The downside at this lock was the exit to the lower lock landing. As can be seen in the above photo, a long boat comes straight out into the remains of a concrete landing and a large tree, It took Christine some effort to avoid both! Short cruisers might have sufficient room to turn sharply right as they exit.

Our final lock today (or so it turned out) was Wansford Lock. A large sluice controlled weir was built just where an upper lock landing might be expected. Instead, boats stop a distance back from the lock on a sharp bend with no sightline of the lock. Still, it is electric so we can forgive most things! Christine took a punt on when to leave the landing, had to wait a little while for the lock to finish filling but then came in without touching either side. Surprisingly, the name board here, and at Yarwell, has a black background whilst all the others before have a white one. New styling?

Wansford has three bridges. The first, the most splendid in appearance, dates from about 1600 and carried the Great North Road. It has a total of 12 arches but most were too camera shy.

By the early part of the 20C it was increasingly a bottleneck and a new bypass was built in 1928 with the bridge constructed in the new fashion of mass concrete. The names of the local highway authorities on each bank are indented into the structure.

That too became insufficient and another crossing opened in 1975 to carry a southbound carriageway, leaving the earlier bypass to provide for northbound vehicles.

Wansford Pumping Station tales water from the Nene and transports it to Rutland Water 12 miles north west for drinking supplies.

Stibbington Boatyard is a recent development where there was previously a boat builder P W Buckle. We could not see any sign of the boatyard and the rest of the development seemed to be in an uncertain state. However, other than a short reference to OwnerShips Google yielded little evidence. Anyone know more?

And so to Wansford Station where we planned to stop at least for lunch if not longer. If we could find a space, that is. Just before passing under the Nene Valley railway bridge we could see that the whole of the short pontoon was free. But then, as we were almost alongside we realised that a boat coming the other way was heading to the same pontoon. We both took it gingerly as the space is limited but the other boat, a vintage sea going vessel, was much shorter and we both fitted comfortably, albeit with no space to spare!

By now we had decided to stay here tonight as the next possible mooring, Ferry Meadows, is at least 2.5 hours away. It was certainly our fall back if we could not moor at Wansford Station and offers a lot more pontoon room.

There was no regular service on the Nene Valley today - yesterday would have felt very different! However, they were running a series of special Deltic No 55009 Alycidon Driving Experience sessions - 1 hour on the footplate at £450 per person (Only two allowed on any trip) 

Late afternoon Mike walked up to the station and took a series of photos. Let them speak for themselves!

The main station building dates from 1885 but designed to reflect the style of the times when the line opened 150 years earlier. (The extension on the left came in 2011)

9.4 Miles - 4 Locks

Fotheringhay

Today's Navigation : River Nene

When we awoke the sky was very grey with universal overcast clouds.

But by the time we were pushing away from the pontoon and coming out of the marina entrance, signs of blue sky were just beginning to show.

Very soon we arrived at Lower Barnwwell Lock which had been electrified. This was fortunate as there was a notice in the control cabinet asking boaters to leave the guillotine gate closed, normally to be raised. This change was only introduced a few days ago and is intended to help with low water levels in the next reach.

By the time we had left the lock and rejoined the main river stream, the sky as very blue but with some interesting streaked cloud patterns.

The A605 - effectively the Oundle Bypass - crosses the river at a point where it follows the former railway line (yes, that one again!) and although the main span is new and concrete, the approach utilises the old rail viaduct built from bricks.

In the middle of nowhere (plenty of those in these parts!) we passed this floating structure. No doubt it is classed as a houseboat but essentially a shed on a pontoon! Its occupants access by car across the adjoining field.

Ashton Lock, sadly, is still manual but although quite hard work, definitely smoother than the three previous ones. We chatted to a man who arrived at the lock through a hidden gate and fence. It turned out that not only does he and his wife live on a boat on the short arm above the lock, but also they own the surrounding land.

Nearing Cotterstock there was an unusually long straight section - mostly this river twists and turns as it finds (and then changes) its route along the wide flood plain.

We shared Cotterstock Lock (thankfully electrified) with a small but wide cruiser which had turned around just after Ashton Lock. They seemed somewhat inexperienced and we are not sure whether they have ever shared before! Fortunately we fitted comfortably as we are not sure what would happen if we pushed the Emergency Stop button in the event that a boat became stuck or hung up on a cill. Once the Raise button is hit it continues the small emptying lift even if the finger is removed. In the main raising phase, taking the finger off the button causes it to stop immediately. Ideally, if a boat gets stuck the best thing is to close down the emptying asap. we missed a photo of the other boat as they were holding back until we had cleared the very short lock landing below.

Another bird box (or whatever!) but this one has a solar input. We wondered if this powered a remote camera or counted how many residents used it.

Cotterstock Church is a little further on and looks worth a visit but, as almost always, no way off the boat anywhere nearby.

We saw Tansor Church just a few hundred metres later but close up it is entirely hidden by trees. It is also a long way from Cotterstock - by road or by foot!

The small boat also joined us at Perio Lock which is yet another manual lock. Despite prompting from Christine they did not attempt to lend Mike some assistance with the gate opening.

We were surprised to spot a FOTRN mooring called Fir Trees. It is not on any of our lists so perhaps it is quite new. It is barely a boat's length, but otherwise looks useful.

Suddenly, as we rounded yet another bend, Fotheringhay Church popped up on the horizon. 

As well as our destination for tonight, we wanted to top up our water tank after a load of laundry as we were coming along. This proved extremely difficult to get ashore and connect the hosepipe = remarkably unsafe to access for a public agency. It took us five attempts before we worked out a way to take lines to the mooring posts on the bank.

After that we moved to the section the other side of the bridge. This was almost as fraught. A boat had already moored right in the middle - it later transpired that this was the only place where they could get even close to the bank, let along alongside. However they did assist when we made another approach at a different part of the bank Our gangplank proved necessary to get ashore.

This is a popular spot for water sports - especially at the moment SUPs (except that most of those out today could not quite master the standing up bit!) A while after mooring we realised that we had lost the plastic box used to store our hosepipe, presumably taken by the wind. Just as Mike was transferring stuff out of another box, some passing paddlers came close and Mike asked if they could look lout for it as they passed under the bridge. "You mean, like this one," they said, pointing to another paddle board. They had seen it some distance downstream and thought that they would litter pick as it did not enhance the environment. They were happy to re-unite it with its owner.

Late afternoon, with most of the meal prepare but not cooked, Mike decided, perhaps a little too casually, to take a leap ashore and explore Fotheringhay Castle. We were moored right next to  the memorial stone commemorating the execution of Mary Queen of Scots in 1587 after she had given Elizabeth I cause to think that Mary was about to challenge her regal position and also re-introduce Catholicism as the preferred religious organisation.

All that remains of the once impressive castle is the huge mound, in its day the most defensive military technology available.

As Mike walked around to find the steps up to the top, he spotted this group of thistle and poppy (the latter now past its flowering stage) Both flowers at one time had significance in English and Scottish politics.

After weeks of hot weather, the path to the top was not easy! The steps have been badly eroded and the surface is largely loose fine gravel and hence rather slippery. In the end he made it - but not quite upright until another walked offered him a hand to stand properly!

The view from the top was terrific - at one stage a beautiful red kite flew around the people on the top and at that level, very  close. Its wonderful markings were most clear. (Sorry, the camera missed it all)

Coming back down was even harder! With luck not too many people had to witness Mike's most ungainly scramble backwards! But he did return to the river level in one piece. Alas, by this stage his balance felt decidedly challenged and walking the gangplank unattractive until another walker offered him a stabilising hand! At times it is good to realise just how incredibly helpful can sometimes be, with no asking and no reward.

8.1 Miles - 4 Locks

Oundle Marina

Today's Navigation : River Nene

Today has grally been much fresher, with the sun being moderated by a sprinkling of clouds and a fairly strong breeze. We were away just after 8 - a little later than planned but as we had come down Islip Lock last night, we had a slighter easier run today. We decided yesterday that we would aim to find an overnight mooring in Oundle Marina as otherwise there are no other options that are not too soon or too late.

We were quietly tucked away for the night and had no distractions at all. 

Alongside the mooring is Middle Nene Sailing Club, based on a former quarry that was started and exhausted in the 20C. 

The next lock was at Titchmarsh. We expected this to be still manually operated but at least it is in the cooler part of the day. 

The lock landing is on a slight bend and so we could not see clearly down to the guillotine gate until Mike began his reluctant trudge down to The Wheel.

But just wait! What is this? A brand new, probably this spring, electric operation! Hooray . . .

Below the lock, alongside which is a splendid former mill, is Middle Nene Cruising Club.

Looks like someone is trying to get a cheap mooring!

The King's Arms pub at Wadenhoe has now closed and planning is being sought to convert it to other uses. There has long been a very useful waterpoint here (as with all facilities, they are sparse on the river, to say the least). So there has been concern locally that it may also be lost but at the moment is available. We were leaving filling the water tank until Oundle but wanted to check it out. As can be seen (or not) in the photo is is in danger of being engulfed by untended vegetation.

Just before this we had managed avoid numerous wild swimmers - all women as it happened (may be it is a restricted club) but most did now what they were doing and several used floatation markers. Alongside the aforementioned water point is the village hall and there was quite a gathering there, with more swimmers joining entering the water. No doubt they are all TWATS (see)

In the land of Squires and Spires, yet another standing just back from the river and a small hill should be no surprise but this is Achurch! Yes, that is its name, and that of the tiny village, and dates back to 13C but extensively restored in 19C. In the 2021 census the population was 188, including the nearby Thorpe Waterville.

The road bridge below Lilford Lock is more substantial and almost ornate than most others across the river.

We have found Upper Barnwell lock quite difficult above - it seems likely that the trees on one side and the mill on the other funnel the prevailing wind and make mooring on the lock landing difficult. We had to help a singlehander here in 2018 (see) Even prepared, it was still quite a struggle to get the boat alomgside and tied firmly to a bollard.

With luck on our side, two young chaps were sitting by the lock having an early picnic lunch. They were more than ready to end a hand. Firstly, they opened the top door (opposite where Mike was doing the same) so that Christine had a wider target to aim for once set free. Secondly, as Mike was concerned that Christine might lose control of the boat after untying and before she could get back on  board, he persuaded them to untie and hand the rope with Christine staying on board. In the end these provisions worked a treat and she came into the lock very smoothly.

The turning into Oundle Marina is very sharp from upstream but - perhaps because there was no-one looking - we managed it dead centre. The marina opened just over 60 years ago which must make it one of the early ones. It is laid out very openly and was formed from some disused gravel pits.

We were warmly welcomed and helped to tie up alongside the fuelling station. We were then given a choice of three nearby pontoons and opted for the one that meant that the wind would be blowing us sideways onto it, making it much easer to control.

8.2 Miles - 4 Locks