Denver Crossing

Today's Navigations : Middle Level, River Great Ouse (tidal and non-tidal)

After yesterday's blog, Mike took a late evening walk to see more closely some of the older buildings around where we moored. Just here the main A road which follows the Middle Level from Salter's Lode to here, takes a sharp left turn over the bridge before continuing on towards Ely. Upwell Church is at the top of the bank right above our mooring.

Next to the church is a former pub, The Five Bells. This closed as a local drinking place in 2021 and has since been converted to an upmarket holiday let with 8 bedrooms and up to 21 guests.

At the junction there is a rather superior place sign that commemorates that here was the end of a tramway that once connected Upwell to Wisbech, a few miles away, along the route of the former Wisbech Canal.

Opposite the pub stood one of the Methodist Chapels, this one belonging to the Primitive tradition. 

A couple of buildings along is the Village Hall. It was built in 1868 and run by a group of local people for village residents. In the post-war period it became less popular (too much telly watching?) and it was sold into private hands. Eventually, in  a poor condition it was closed in 1996.This galvanised the local parish council who took it and renovated it, together with variou\s extensions made over the years. On an old OS map it is labelled Town Hall - just a reminder that it is necessary to be careful when using information from early maps!

Mike collected some juicy blackberries from the top of the bank above the boats. He gave these to Christine specifically for her next breakfast.

Just as we set off we thought we could here someone strimming theorgarden just around the corner. Turned out to be a team cutting back branches on an overhanging tree. Yes, there is one man at the top of that rope, all but hidden in the foliage. They carefully held back to let us through safely.

This former Police Station has a date stone of 1904 but it does not appear on the OS map around that time. It looks more recent so perhaps it had some updating before it found alternative use.

We think that the building to the left was built as an Infants' School but we could not decide whether the barn-like building to the right was part of it.

As we merged into Outwell, there is a sharp bend as the navigation rounds the spot where their parish church stands. The photo is of the opposite side here the Wisbech Canal originally joined the river. (A reminder that this part of Middle Level was ay one time the Old River Nene)

It is not possible to take a photo of all the church as it is surrounded by houses and dense vegetation on all but this side.

Our rate of progress which had been slow all through Upwell and Outwell, with the channel quite narrow. However, as we started to leave the villages behind, we did not speed up. Although the channel was now a bit wider, it was for about the next mile rather shallow. Lter we speeded up quite considefrably.

We passed over Mullicourt Aqueduct which carries the Link Route over the Main Drain. The strong security fencing allows only a partial view of the level below which is navigable to this point but boats cannot pass underneath.

The route is now reasonably direct to Salter's Lode but rarely dead straight for very long.

At Nordelph there is an apparent junction with Old Popham's Eau that runs direct to Three Holes Corner. There seems to be some difference of opinion as to whether it was even navigable but remained a drainage channel with no link at Nordelph. Certainly today there is neither.

At one time there was a windmill here but it has long been converted to an impressive dwelling.

As elsewhere, the houses seem to have mooring right on the other side of the road and here to update theirs with some smart new planks.

 

Most of the fields with combineable crops have already been harvested but here one farmer is getting to the end of this patch. Too far to work out what had been grown.

We arrived at Salter's Lode in good time. Whilst waiting we attempted to fill up at the newly installed water point but our key would not open the padlock. When Karen, the lock keeper came out to greet us she tried her key - that worked - but spotted that the one that we had been given at Stanground had not been accurately cut so she swapped it for a new one. In any case, we still had to pay for it and the lock key! She told us that we had enough time to at least take on some water before locking out.

She had not been here eight years ago but when we asked how long she had now been the keeper, she explained that her husband held the post for many years but about two years ago become unable to continue to work but she was very pleased that the Commissioners allowed her to take over and thus able to stay in the house.

The lock is built to allow boats through when the level is either below or above the river. Sometimes boats are let through 'on the level' especially if too long to fit in between the gates. Today we were going up.

From below it is possible to see one of the limiting factors for the window of opportunity - the concrete bars across the top of the lock only provide sufficient headroom at certain times, along with the need to have appropriate levels at Denver. At the time of taking this photo there was only about 600 - 800mm and the wooden structures that guide boats in from below were submerged.

Once the tide was right were were called into the lock and the sluice in the river end guillotine lifted to lift us up. We then had no choice but to go for it! We did not have the strong heel that we noted last time and, despite our anticipation, it was an easy transit. 

Denver is notorious for the sandbar that builds up below the sluice. Take the wrong route and you could be stuck for some time! Signs at the lock warn that there is no rescue service for this tidal stretch provided by the navigation authority! The sandbar also keeps shifting position and is nit visible at the time of making the transit. What is new this time is that the instruction from Karen is to keep heading straight until the lock keeper waves to tell the steerer when to head for Denver Sluice (Lock).

All went well but we were too busy keeping fingers crossed that we took very few photos! The lockie told is that sadly there is no longer an elsan here - a new one was built five years ago but stands locked up - he does not know why. Next available is at Ely, two days away.

We planned to stop for the night at one of two sort term moorings just up from Jenyns so we carried on for what we expected to be about five minutes. The first site came into view and eventually we could see a rather small sign that said it was closed until further notice. OK so over to the other side for the other one. Alas it too is dilapidated - both were really smart and lengthy with proper bollards so we do not know what had gone wrong.

We opted to turn about (at least the river is still as wide as it was!) and return to the first mooring that we had bypassed! By now we found that the wind was rather strong and the river flow unhelpful so getting to the bank facing the right way proved a bit tricky. It took us three goes before we managed it correctly - and we did nit argue about which party of the mooring we ended up at! (so long as we missed the two cruisers already at the far end) Once we came close to the edge it all went smoothly . . . Time then for lunch.

7.5 Miles - 2 Locks

Upwell

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

A very grey day from start to finish! In comparison with what we have become accustomed to, it was rather chilly! Before we set off, Christine took a look at the market which is held outside the town hall twice a week. It was a modest affair. Not a lot of interest but she did return with a large pork pie and a piece of newly cooked haslet.

The houses that abut the navigation all seem to have a garden that runs down to a mooring at the bottom. However, an access road runs between the houses and the gardens! There is a great variety in how these spaces are used - being quite steep limits the options. Some are well tended but others seemingly forgotten.

One or two of the gardens are being rediscovered and new work put in to make them usable.

After about half an hour we came to the edge of the town and back into open countryside. As this route was once the River Nene (until it was diverted centuries ago for the betterment of other places!) it is not all completely straight. Even so, there are some long stretches. The most important part of this picture is what you cannot see: surface weed. We had been led to believe that we might encounter problems with edge to edge blanket weed and other invasive species but, as this shows, we had no such problem.

We have noticed that in the eight years since we last visited the Middle Level there has be a marked growth in the amount of wind generation of electricity. Most of the mills are single or small numbers but even when we first came 16 years ago the large Coldham Hall wind farm at Reed Fen was already in operation. We counted 24 turbines.

It took about half an hour to pass by the wind farm. When immediately underneath it is much easier to appreciate the scale of each one. The farm started generating in 2005 and some of the units look as little the worse for wear. We wondered what life span they will have and what happens when deemed to have passed their useful life. We think that this report shows one of the turbines on fire in 2025.

Eventually we reached Marmount Priory Lock where one of the day boats from Fox's was already locking up. On our previous visits here, there was a resident lock keeper, Maureen, well known for presiding over the lock and passing boats! Last time, she was not too well - although still active - and her daughter and grand daughter were doing all the work! 

Sadly her house was badly damaged when a roof tank failed and she moved to live with a daughter but died two years ago. She had not been replaced and the lock is technically boater operation. However, the restored house was sold earlier this year to a couple just retired - Andy is a craft person specialising in traditional canal ware but really enjoys assisting boats through the lock. With his help we were easily on our way once again. He is also doing a lot of work on the garden.

Upwell/Outwell is a long established community that straddles Well Creek, the local name for this part of the Old River Nene. The two places abut each other and there is no clear division point. As a result some people say that this the longest village in England! It is principally a ribbon development with just a short spur along one of the roads through the centre.

Tempted to live here? A three bedroom property is on sale for £290K.

A building that caught our attention last time (mainly because of the large legend OFFICES above the front door) is now undergoing substantial refurbishment.

At one time Upwell had three Methodist Chapels (of varying persuasions) but in 1956 a new building was opened and is now the one still in use. It recently had to have its roof completely replaced.

No two properties are the same along the whole stretch which makes for a mixed and interesting view. This one has apparently undergone several changes in its lifetime, judging by the markings on the end wall.

We suspect that the place must at once time have been especially thriving with some handsome houses as well as a mix of smaller ones.

Upwell did not lack religious activity, especially at the end of the 19C. As well as the three Methodist churches, a large parish church (together with an even larger one in Outwell) it also had a Salvation Hall, eventually part of the Salvation Army.

We arrived at the town moorings and were pleasantly surprised that they were entirely free (apart from a family with small children learning to fish) and we were right beside the parish church.

Later, Christine took a wander to look around the church and was particularly taken by the intricately carved gravestones, another indication of former wealth.

7.3 Miles - 1 Lock

March Town Mooring

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

We did not plan to move very far today because Christine had a Zoom meeting at 1.30 for at least a couple of hours. This meant being very sure that we had a decent mobile signal. 

We left the marina around 9:30, reversing back out of our mooring slot, through the entrance onto the main navigation. It was then about half an hour to the town centre. There are two places where visitor moorings can be found but for a long time they were usually occupied by long term dwellers. Eventually the local Fenland Council started to be stricter about compliance in the 2 days locations.

We passed the first, quite short mooring (good if you really want shade). There was one boat that seemed to be there permanently but at least a couple of boats could have tied up here. The main town mooring is the other side of the road bridge, long enough for four boats if moored sensibly. There were two boats moored but it was clear that they were intending to move on once they had done some shopping. In any event, we were happy with the space at the far end (the first slot is a bit noisy, especially in the evening, as it is adjacent to the Ship Inn.

We were directly opposite the Town Hall.

Our main task for the rest of the morning was also to go shopping - a reasonable Sainsbury store is close at hand. We were disappointed to find that the Morrisons store we used last time here has since closed down.

After a slightly early lunch, Christine settled down to her meeting - reception seemed satisfactory. later she went for a short walk in the town centre but Mike declined - he needed more rest!

Overall, with just a passing glimpse, it did feel that town regrets the passing of a former glory and has not yet worked out how to recover from this and find a brighter future.

We took advantage of being right next to a fish and chip shop to avoid cooking tonight. Quantities were not stinted and we could not finish all the chips!

1.1  Miles - 0 Locks

Fox Marina, March

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

A really good day for cruising: the sun was out almost from the start and was reasonably warm but a strong breeze kept us from baking.

As the photo shows we were squeezed in between the landing and the lock itself. One of the boats that penned through yesterday at the same slot as ourselves arrived here a little after we did but found a gap in the reeds just before the lock - we tried it but did not fit whilst they are quite a bit shorter - and a late arrival single hander coming up the lock moored just beyond the landing. He set off this morning before we were around!

The other boat set Ashline Lock for themselves as they walked their two huge fluffy dogs. This lock is not fast to operate and for those coming up has the added 'bonus' of being leave empty. Hence it was rather later than the time we had planned to leave before we could make a start on resetting the lock for ourselves.

The penstocks (paddles) are unusual;, but a bit like a few on the Leeds and Liverpool. The windlass sits on top of each tower and has to be turned horizontally to wind the mechanism open or closed. These were especially heavy, notably when raising.

As we saw yesterday, water is being pumped to top up the level and the bywash was running freely.

At least for us the departure was easier . . . no gates to close.

The adjacent railway line seems to be quite busy even though the service from Whittlesey station is hourly. There were plenty of through passenger and freight services as well. Very close is a pedestrian level crossing which is self operated with a green light to indicate of there is no approaching train. Nevertheless each one has to make an audible alarm  nearby residents must have to be able to filter out that sound but to us it was somewhat annoying. Of course, despite the frequency, nothing appeared as we were positioned for a photo!

For the rest of the cruise we were in flat, open countryside, traditionally famed for its production of potatoes and what are called 'combineable' crops. Homes are often quite isolated, sometimes with a few trees to offer a little protection from stronger winds.

Angle Corner is the intersection  of  Whittlesey Dyke (the through route we were on) and the Twenty Foot River, known as Bevills Leam for the south western arm from here.

Like this one, many houses are quite isolated.

It seems that many, if not most, of the old small farms have now been merged in to much larger groups. This one, E C Brown and Sons now has seven under its ownership.

We were pleasantly surprised to come across this Rural Mooring provided by the Middle Level Commissioners. It is very basic but in an area where more formal moorings are long travel times apart it might be very welcome. We have made a note in case we are one of those in need on our return trip.

Another junction: Floods Ferry. Eight years ago we did turn here on our way to Bill Fen Marina.

Shortly after the junction we crossed  the Greenwich Meridian. Not that we have noticed were it not for the sign which the local Rotary Club have erected. Perhaps we may find the sun in a more helpful direction on the way back!

Floods Ferry Marina (really just a set of online moorings) looks rather forlorn and with many slots quite empty. The lodges, mobile homes and touring vans seem to be faring rather better.

Just before we reached Fox Marina we passed the posh looking offices of the Middle Level Commissioners together with a splendid mooring. Passing boaters are allowed to pause long enough to use the water point (but nothing else - that is definitely not what MLC do!)

We then turned into the marina - no photos as we were trying hard to avoid mowing down two paddlers in a canoe, intent of creating a collision it seemed!

We tied up alongside the hire boats but had to wait until the office re-opened after its lunch break. Clearly time to have ours! Christine then went to sort out details and found that our overnight stop was where we were but that we had to move along a short distance to be closer to the diesel point. Although we were not especially down on fuel, in these parts with sporadic opportunities to re-fuel, we top up when we can. Still, the tank did take 46 litres.

Then it was back to where we were! The most pressing need was to empty two elsan cassettes that were very full. This is one of the now few marinas that still charge for such disposals. We were pleased then that we had made maximum use of the fixed charge.

We are staying here tonight as we wanted to be better timed to find a mooring in March itself for tomorrow. Christine has a Zoom meeting and needs a good mobile signal. We had been told that sometimes, despite the flat land, reception is not good away from the towns. We also could do with a little more shopping.

9.8 Miles - 1 Lock