Bedford

Today's Navigation : Great River Ouse

When Mike woke at around half past six the view from the front cabin was quite spectacular as the rising sun caught the stonework of Great Barford Bridge.

Before leaving Great Barford, Mike moved the boat a very short distance forward so that we could fill the water tank. The tap provided an exceptionally good flow rate.

By the time we were ready to set off properly, the sun had risen somewhat and move d around so that more of the bridge was in sunlight - but the colours of the stonework were rather more muted.

We picked up from another boater familiar with the Bedford waters that narrowboats have had recent difficulty navigating the arch marked one way from this direction as the rapidly expanding reeds on the upstream side now left insufficient room for a longer boat to make the turn comfortably. We had been advised to take the No Entry route - at least we could see that there was no immediate oncoming traffic. Interestingly, there is no directional signage on the other side.

Our route today was quite winding and the various distinct changes of direction made it hard to get the best pictures at times!

Old Mill Lock has long been abandoned, along with all of the former mill structures. It was quite a narrow lock and we have to presume that it ceased being used well before all the other locks were widend.

At first we assumed that this bridge must have been a former railway bridge - we will see plenty today, working and retired. We saw a large construction vehicle pass over laden with construction  materials. We later discovered that just to one side of he river is a fairly new sand quarry and that the bridge has only just started to appear on our various maps. As far as we have been able to discover, the site is owned by Breedon, a supplier of ready mix concrete and other materials and has been operating in this area for two or three decades. We guess that this bridge links the older site to the north with a new patch to the south of the river, enabling them to continue operations when the older sections are worked out. It also appears that the worked out pits are being used as waste landfill sites. In any event the bridge is new and purpose built!

And so to our first lock of the day: Willington. A substantial weir sits alongside the lock and there was a reasonable flow over it. (In general there were plenty of signs that the river levels are noticeably down.

At all four of today's locks we could recruit interested onlookers to assist. Here this made quite a bit of reduction in the amount of walking back and forth so we came through quicker than some.

Danish Camp is now largely an eating place but with plenty of outdoor space, just right for a day like today. However, its name comes from the belief (see) that this w cruise.as once an important site occupied by invading Danes. There used to be a moated island just behind.

Some of the next stretches - perhaps a little narrower - has trees grown up to cover right over the water, making it an especially attractive cruise.

Castle Mill Viaduct is quite long, bringing the busy A421 down from the A1. Unfortunately we could not find a spot were we could capture this in a photo - try again on the return?

Castle Mills Lock was the lock that prevented us from visiting Bedford back in 2010 when we first came this way, along with Andrew (frightening to look back at how few days we took over this river!) The structure alongside is not quite the same as at the previous lock which was a fixed height weir. Here we have more of a sluice with the ability to control the height of the water and hence the flow downstream. Some other locks we have noticed that they also have sluices, usually similar to the lock guillotine gates, but on a lengthy bypass and often almost out of view.

This lock dates from restoration projects in the 1970's and has one distinctive feature - apart from being usually deep. Instead of conventional slackers on each gate there are two placed centrally which let water in and out from the middle position. This is helpful when ascending as it tends to keep a boat in the same position as it rises.

Unusually there were two boats waiting to come down so it was in any case less work for Mike to do!

After a number of double pointed locks it was a surprise to return to guillotine locks for the final two, here at Cardington. Two very enthusiastic ladies were very willing to assist! They are part of a group in the early stages of planning a joint hire boat cruise.

We called in at Priory Marina as we wanted to used their elsan and rubbish facilities - we were disappointed earlier when a message came that they did, it seems, not have enough room to accommodate us tonight. We hiung about on the visitor mooring to have our lunch but were eventually dispossessed (in a very kindly way) by the trip boat John Bunyan that his hosted in this marina - they wanted to use the pump-out machine we we were right beside!

Yet another abandoned railway bridge, now repurposed as part of the Bedford to Sandy Country Way. Originally this was part of the Bedford and Cambridge Line, long closed. Only now is the East West Main Line eventually linking Oxford and Cambridge directly but having to find an entirely new route as too much of the original has been built over.

There is an exceptional number of bridges over the river in Bedford. Be grateful that we will not bore you with all of them! Instead let us turn to Bedford Lock. This is again a smaller lock, at only 3.3 m width it is barely more than a traditional narrow lock. It too has a guillotine at the upper end. A small girl with her mother was delighted to be asked to help operate the Gate Controls. At the end, the watching crowd (it is Saturday, sunny and in a large park area!) gave her a round of applause.

We turned left - right is a short arm closely parallel to the lower river level - out onto the wide reach through the centre of Bedford. County Bridge is perhaps the more elegant but two sets of railway bridges, both carrying busy electrified lines, were especially low and we had to duck right down to cabin roof level to avoid decapitation. Quite difficult to steer straight underneath them when unable to see where we were going.

After the second railway bridge we decided that we had done enough to satisfy our desire to tick Bedford off our list of Navigation Places We Have Visited. Kempston, the end of the navigable river, is on the IWA Silver Propellor Challenge but too many of them are barely accessible so we have not risen to that challenge! We also learned from another boater that the current water level there make it likely that we could not turn and would have had a long section of reversing.

We had already decided that the town mooring just before a newish footbridge offered definitely the best overnight mooring for some distance (back to where we started today, probably) Only one other boat was moored - our neighbours from two nights ago at St Neots.

8.9 Miles - 4 Locks

Great Barford

Today's navigation : River Great Ouse

Things still come in threes, do they not? Well, today was no exception - other than the count might just be four!

We got away from our overnight mooring in reasonably good time, although not as early as the boat moored next to us. As promised, they were off even before we began to stir! The mooring was very close to the main road bridge but was remarkably quiet.

Each end of the bridge has a large painting of a winged creature in incredible detail.Looking back to our 2018 photos we can just make out that these images were installed before then so have survived very well indeed.

It was not far to the first lock at Eaton Socon and a day that was very much brighter than we had been led to expect. As we approached the lock we could see that the bottom gates were open so Mike dropped off on the lock landing whilst Christine took the boat into the lock. 

Nothing seemed untoward except that we had spotted from a distance that there was an EA van parked up nearby. As Mike walked up to the top level, ready to shut the gates once the boat was inside, he could then see that a couple of staff had dismantled the sensor mechanism that is used by the guillotine gate control to prevent the big gate being lifted if the bottom gates and slackers are not all fully closed. We were warned that it would probably be a couple of hours delay! We now understand that this lock has been giving problems for some time now tracked down to an unusual problem with a buried cable! Nothing we could do but spend the time admiring the surroundings.

An information board by the lock showed the layout of this area over a long period. It said that the original lock was a little further down, just beyond where the lock landing is now. Mike walked over to see if there were any remaining signs of its position.

There was a short length of wall that was probably where the lock tail was located and Mike took a photo.

He then went to look at the old mill, now converted into a pub and restaurant.

A side arm from above the new lock, ends just before the mill and is now used for moorings. Our map indicates that they supplied diesel but it seems that is the four years since we bought this particular guide they have given  up the marina business and only retained the moorings. So no diesel!

As he was returning to the boat, Mike was accosted by a very aggressive man but Mike managed to remain calm, at least on the outside. Shaken but not stirred, Mike eventually managed to extricate himself from the situation and returned to the lock. 

Work on the sensors was progressing but it seems that it was more difficult to adjust than anticipated. The two hour estimate was probably correct. Actually, in the end we were able to proceed about 90 minutes after arriving - so not too bad, really.

Standing by the lock, Mike was then accosted by a woman who was equally aggressive but fortunately at that point Mike had the call that the lock was now ready and was being filled so he had to hurry over to make sure our boat was secure - there was now a cruiser alongside us. 

We then had a very pleasant cruise on the long reach to Roxton Lock. There was little remarkable along the way but a very pleasant 'amble'.

We were now wondering what to do about diesel and Christine spent some of the time phoning ahead. It seems that there is a dearth of fuel at this end of the river as Priory Marina in Bedford is also running out.

At first we thought from a distance that we had arrived at Tempsford (where the A1 crosses and Kelpie Marine is based) slightly quicker than expected but it turned out to be the new A428 crossing!

This is the actual Tempsford New Bridge some 10 - 15 minutes later!

The cruiser had headed off in front of us as they were anxious to get to Bedford for an unexpected appointment.This meant - as there was no oncoming traffic - that the locks were against us! The locks are now double pointed so a lot more walking. Mike closed the top gates and emptied the lock. At this stage we did not realise that the locks are now a bit narrower and our boat could not pass with only one gate open - just not quite. Christine brought the boat into the lock entrance, the landing was very close so she was proceeding pretty slowly. 

However, it quickly became apparent that the other gate needed to be opened at least partly so Mike walked round via the top gates only to discover that that gate had been left chained up. Following complaints about gates blowing closed when opened by single handers, EA had decided to fit posts and chains to allow the gates to be held open or closed. The design meant that any pressure from a boat in the gap caused the chain to be impossible to remove. We now could neither move backward as this chain made that impossible.

Mike tried numerous ways to free us but no luck. Everything about the chain conspired against us. Even the bolt holding the chain to the post had been fitted with a special (expensive?) security nut making it impossible to for vandals to remove it - nor anyone else either!

At this point we gave in and called EA and eventually were connected with the local duty person who said that he was on his way. He arrived about 45 minutes later. He tried all the same things that Mike had tried with equally no effect. He considered cutting the chain but checked with his office only to be told that, because the chain was now in tension, he was not authorised to do so under Health and Safety. Some considerable number of telephone calls ensued.

Eventually The Office decided that the fire brigade should be called as they have the permissions to cut tensioned chains!

Eventually, two engines turned up with full crew and two other units were on their way! (The nearest they could park was a little away from the lock) The leader of the first crew quickly decided to stand down the extras and the crew from the second engine enjoyed being spectators from the adjoining footbridge. Because the crew were about to damage someone's property they first had to complete the necessary procedures before they were able to bring on the heavy duty bolt cutters. 

One crew member deployed that tool whilst another held a shatterproof transparent shield (only a small one!) What followed can only be described as a definite let! The chain meekly yielded and lamely dropped to the ground! (We tried to be discreet in taking photos and not intrude) A little more admin and everyone was able to go happily on their way!

What was surprising was that in the time between our arrival at the lock and leaving it some four and a half hours later, not a single boat arrived hoping to come through.

We were now some seven hours behind schedule but needed to reach above Great Barford lock to find the nearest overnight mooring. This took us again on a long but pleasant reach for the next hour. The lock, inevitably set against us, thus took the maximum amount of walking to and fro as it is possible. Alas, all this effort distracted us from taking photos . . . (We're good on excuses round here!)

However, the moorings by Great Barford Bridge were entirely empty so no difficulty in finding a suitable place to stop, take breath and sort out tonight's meal!

7.9 Miles - 3 Locks

St Neots

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

We travelled up yesterday, making good time despite having to make a diversion near Hungerford as there has been a serious road accident earlier in the morning. Even though the recommended diversion (by a police officer on duty at the stoppage point) was a narrow, twisty lane we did not lose a lot of time.

A comfort stop at the services just off the M40 as we turned to take a cross country route towards Huntingdon also allowed us to top up the battery. We ate our lunch rolls whilst waiting for the charger. It was labelled a Medium Rate but nevertheless seemed remarkably fast. We arrived at the marina not long after 2.

As this is a comparatively short trip we did not have too much to transfer from the car - just two and a half trolley loads. After a refreshing mug of tea we drove into Huntingdon for grocery supplies. Our list was not complicated so we were able to find it all at Lidl. In the end, the complex traffic scheme in the town meant that it was as far as Sainsbury where Mike went at the end of the last trip.

We were ready to make an early departure from the marina were it not for the fact that Mike forgot to fill the water tank as soon as he was dressed and we also had to find someone in the office so that we could hand in our security fob. We had hoped to fill up the diesel tank - we were down to half full - but their pump was broken. We were able then to leave by 10:30.

The entrance/exit channel between the river and the marina is unusually long and passes some of the smart lodges that are a feature of this place.The service pontoon is located on the river itself, seemingly a long way from the marina entrance but that is deceptive as both river and channel bend around.

The weather was generally much cooler today although initially there was plenty of sun and blue sky. Later rain clouds arrived on schedule but only an extended light shower made any attempt to alleviate the drought conditions. (Before we left this morning we discovered that the Nene is currently closed in a couple of places, including Peterborough but hopefully that will recover in time for our next trip. The Northampton Arm is an altogether different matter)

Some Old Flour Mills, no doubt once powered by the lock bywash, have  now been repurposed as smart apartments.

Very soon we arrived at Offord Lock which was empty and waiting for us. There is a busy road just below the lock so the landing is well back from the lock itself. Another boat arrived just as we were ready to open the top guillotine and kindly worked us through.

The next reach is quite long - about four and a half miles. Just after leaving Offord lock we faced a split in the water channel with no indicate to go right or left. After a lengthy study of several maps we went right and were relieved that we had made the right choice as we were on the brink of going the other way which eventually leads to a substantial weir on the river parallel to the lock channel.

There are few landmarks along the reach and at times it was rather tricky to correlate our position with the map. We made a note of this wind pump for future reference even though it is not on any of our maps!

St Neots lock is different from most others so far on this navigation with the guillotine gate at the bottom. With Christine already having brought the boat into the lock, Mike tried and tried to open the gate control box but to no avail. Eventually a cruiser came up behind us. Although it was a wide bean the lock is very long and easily fitted behind us. Just as the steerer on that boat was climbing up to try his key, Mike finally succeeded - but don't ask him how! It must require a good thump in just the right position . . . 

The lock took ages to fill, it seemed that only one paddle was working (both mechanisms are on the same lock side) In addition the other boat was extremely cautious and wound up the one paddle very slowly! Altogether we were at the lock for over 40 minutes.

Just above the lock the main weir channel appears to be straight ahead when coming downstream - the route for boats is the narrower channel to the left.We must try to embed this photo into our collective minds ready for the return trip. (Unlike last time . . .)

It was now a short distance to the centre of St Neots where we planned to moor for the night. Alas, the place that we were aiming for, and where we stayed eight years ago, was already full - it seemed a lot shorter than we remembered but that might be the result of unrestricted bank erosion. Another good long mooring on the opposite bank is closed during building works adjacent to the water's edge.

There is a space for just two boats immediately after the road bridge - fortunately one of them was still available. The other, a very friendly boat, is from just outside Cropredy where we are (were?) aiming for this winter. Like us they are heading down to Bedford and also like us have no clue about whether we will make it back to base before it is too cold to continue cruising.

6.3 Miles - 2 Locks

Into Buckden Marina

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

We had been told that the marina office opens at 9.00 so we waited until 8:45 to leave our overnight mooring.

Just after leaving we passed the other GOBA mooring at this location - looks as if it might have been marginally better but we did not really have an issue with where we stayed.

Before long we passed under the Huntingdon Southern Bypass Bridge which was under construction when we were last here. (see)

After this we failed to take any photos! Too busy steering and navigating . . . 

Just on 9 we turned off the river into the entrance to the marina. Buckden combines moorings for boats, predominantly river cruisers but a couple of dozen or so narrowboat spaces, most of which are occupied by the people who live here permanently (only a few do so on a cruiser) together with a good number of up market lodges. We were told by one of the residents that one lodge sold recently for over £300K.

As a result the entrance is quite a long, narrow and winding channel before we reached the main mooring basin. We did not yet know where to go and Christine's several attempts to ring the office went unanswered. We decided to move slowly towards the narrowboat section and as we did we were asked to tow another narrowboat around the corner - it was stated that the owner was not really familiar and was have a little difficulty. We were rather concerned but gave in and did as asked. Fortunately all went well except that in casting off to co0ntinue to hs mooring, he waited so long that the strong breeze took him sideways up to a line of moored boats. He eventually managed to get onto his mooring not far from where we stopped.

As there is no arrival platform, as it were - most marinas do have something along these lines - we popped into a mooring slot so that Christine could go in search of the manager. She soon retuned with him only to be told that we were allocated a berth a few slots back the way we had come.

Mike reversed out and backed down sufficiently to be able to turn in but it did mean we were bow in, not so convenient for loading and unloading but not to the extent that it was worth trying to turn about.

Then we needed to fill with water and to empty elsans before Mike could catch his booked taxi into Huntingdon. Yes, today was car shuffle day. The route plan was to catch a train to Peterborough and then change to one direct to Nottingham. From that station is is somewhat over as mile to the marina where our car awaited us.

The taxi was on time and Mike found a very keen booking clerk (just for once he had not booked online) As the journey to Nottingham was not direct he was very keen to sort out a split ticket that save money - in fact it was about half quoted online, which itself is reduced with a Railcard. The train was on time so all looked well.

Alas, when Mike checked online for the platform numbers at Peterborough he discovered that the planned departure had been cancelled as the train company could not find a driver! Services between Peterborough and Nottingham depart every half hour but alternate between a direct connection and a further change at Grantham. The next departure as a slow train so on the timetable arrived only 10 minutes before the following fast train!

The choice was complicated by the fact that the next slow train was now 8 minutes late and so it seemed that it would be better to wait for the fast train behind. However, by the time the slow train arrived, that fast one was also delayed so Mike opted for the slow train on the basis that there was come certainty of actually getting there!

Eventually Mike alighted at Nottingham but could not find and signs to the taxi rank (he had already been urged by Christine to take the easier option!) and so he asked on of the station staff who, it turned out sent him in entirely the wrong direction! (There are two exits from the station) 

Walking from what turned out to be a minor back entrance around to the front, Mike spotted a taxi office and asked if they had a car available. 'Five minutes' was the reply. Hoping that this was correct and not just a ploy to hang on to a captive customer Mike waited. In fact it was almost accurate and the trip turned out to be very quick (and remarkably cheap)

After checking out with the marina office, Mike set up the say nav and began the run back to Buckden. Although we had fully charged the car before setting off five weeks ago, we wanted to start tomorrow again fully charged, Christine had identified that the nearest was at Buckden Roundabout so Mike set his sat nav to take him there first.

Alas, only one of the four chargers was working and it was already occupied with another driver queuing for it. Knowing that there were better options in Huntingdon itself, Mike quickly decided (no brainer) to continue to the marina and to have a break before completing the task.

After tea, Mike set out to Sainsbury on the far edge of town where there was a much larger installation - and probably faster. Indeed, after popping in to the store for some rolls for the next day's return, te car was all but fully charged.

Meanwhile, Christine had been sorting out boxes to load into the car but using as few as possible as we were at the wrong end of a long pontoon! She also had cleaned through and just about finished when Mike returned from car charging.

1.0 Miles - 0 Locks

Buckden

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

Yesterday afternoon, just as Christine had arranged, Judith and David arrived at the boat having walked through the recreation park, from the nearest point to leave their car. After a brief chat we all walked back to their car to be whisked away to the other side of Godmanchester where they now live. It was a pleasant walk beside the pool into town. It gave us a chance to see what the other marked moorings are like - we definitely had the best deal! Thanks to the volunteer lock keepers for their excellent advice.

David and Judith have been here for just three years on an excellent but substantial new edge of town estate. Their house is spacious and well laid out with, for modern developments, a generous sized garden.

Hearing that we would be passing by they had invited us for a meal but with our sometimes uncertain itinerant lifestyle and their busy one if had taken a bit of effort for Christine and Judith to home in on a date that we could all make! 

As we have always lived in very different parts of the country we do not meet IRL (or F2F) very often so there was plenty to catch up on, reminisce and general chat putting the world to rights! They very kindly drove us back at the end of the evening and a delightful meal. Alas, forgot about photos!

Today we began by walking back into town the same way as yesterday which was almost directly to the parish church where the main service was at 9.30. The congregation were very welcoming and the service itself was in the central mainstream, of Anglican liturgy and practice. We could have stayed for coffee in the church hall but we were keen to move on for the same reason as previous days - the moorings are limited and we wanted to claim a spot sooner rather than later!

After changing we started the engine (early so the washing machine could go on) before reversing back from the mooring. It was a close call but we were not confident about depth of water on the opposite side for turning around where we were. So we reversed just a couple of boat lengths as we knew from our arrival that there was plenty of room immediately above the lock.

As can be seen from the photos, we had some glorious sunny weatherL when we awoke there was a short very light shower of rain which was not repeated (despite the forecast suggesting it might)

Not long before the only lock for today we passed under the electrified main railway line - here it is four track (it turns into two after Ely)

As our hoped-for overnight mooring was a GOBA one, we were keeping a close eye on the occupancy of earlier ones as we passed by.

Just before the lock we passed Brampton Mill, now a popular and quality restaurant but we could not see how busy it was today. It ought to be packed! The water wheel still turns, powered by the same mill stream as when it was a working mill.

The approach to Brampton Lock is not easy to spot, not helped by the route signposted is different from that in our guidebook, In fact that indicated on paper looked choked with weed but when we reached the lock we could see that downstream traffic is signposted that way. Part of the reason for care is that the sluice/weir is quite large and can create troublesome eddies when there is a stronger flow.

Alighting at the lock was not straightforward as the one-boat landing was already occupied as a mooring!

As Mike started to empty the lock a Dad and his young son arrived to portage their paddleboards downstream. However, the youngster was keen to help and Mike's attention was then directed to making sure he did all the right things, understood why and what was happening and kept safe. A smaller cruiser arrived as we were entering the lock and was keen to share with us. The young apprentice was quick to learn and dad also joined in by making sure our boat kept wellaway from the cruiser. It did seem that the youngster was well pleased with the experience and we strongly suspect that dad was just a teeny bit envious! As always, showing a newcomer how to work a lock safely does not leave much room for the camera.

We now had a half hour pleasant run, avoiding several groups of paddlers intent on making us a little bit nervous about missing them! 

 

The river here does not change level very much - its huge width helps with that. But it does feel as if it is getting wider the further upstream we get.

One of the few landmarks to help us work out how far we had come was the remaining abutment of  a former railway bridge. The Kettering, Thrapston and Huntingdon Railway which opened in 1866. although it carried four passenger trains a day its main income came from transporting iron ore from several large quarries in the Thrapston area. The line was never really successful and by 1958 it was making substantial losses. All but the quarry traffic from Twywell ceased and that came to an end soon after. We have not found confirmation, but looking at old and new maps it looks as if much of the track bed formed the basis of a major improvement to the dualled  A14.

Shortly after this we arrived at the first of two marked GOBA moorings. We were a little uncertain - as with most GOBA moorings they are very rural and do not usually have anything to tie to: out with the pins. Dense beds of nettles obscured where the bank started so we had to hack away a bit to see where it was safe to leap ashore. At least there was reasonable depth up to the edge. Despite the rather rough and narrow nature of the towpath at this point (Mike when landing had quickly discovered a large but covert pothole!) it was quite popular with groups of Sunday walkers.

We are only a few minutes away from Buckden Marina where we will leave the boat for two or three weeks before we start the long haul back the way we came, hopefully first completing the navigable river to Bedford which we have failed to reach on previous visits!

2.3 Miles - 1 Lock