March

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

Our aim today was to get as far as March and, hopefully, find an overnight stop on the Town Mooring. We have had a very kind offer to transport Mike from March to Buckden so that he can collect the car. We have also agreed with the marina where we have booked the boat in for about ten days whilst we make another trip back home that we can arrive tomorrow mid morning for the pick up.

Today we have a simple run along the Link Route with just one lock to pass through. When we awoke it was already getting bright outside with the sun low in the sky illuminating the nearby church perhaps more interestingly than the floodlighting they had on last night.

As we were getting ready to leave, Christine persuaded Mike to fill the water tank again - it was still 75% full but she might well want to do some laundry tomorrow during the car shuffle. We had moored last night that the far end, too far from the water point at the near end (in the photo). Mike decided to pull the boat along rather than turn on the engine for such a short distance (why?) Not the fastest tap but it took only a short time to be overflowing.

Upwell is a remarkably long ribbon development with little other than the water-facing buildings spread out for little short of two miles along the Middle Level, here formerly the old route of the Great Ouse (but diverted long before most of these properties developed and as part of the drainage ambitions for the Fens without which the wealth of the area would not have come about) Many of the houses that we could see as we set off are from the 18th and 19th centuries or just into the 20th. A lot are Listed at some grade. Each is very individual and we tried to spot some where we could possibly find a little about its past. Unlike much of the mid 20C development patterns, these properties have huge mansions cheek by jowl with more basic homes for workers and and families. Let's look at a few.

Almost opposite our mooring is White Lion House (next to the village butcher's shop) As the name suggests this was once a pub, built in the 17th C with later adaptations. It must have been converted to a private residence some time ago as it is not described as a PH on the OS map at the start of 20C.

The front of this house has a strange feature for which we have not found an explanation: why is the front door blocked up and where is it now?

Lee House is probably from the turn of the 19/20 centuries and has six bedrooms. It is said to be the most expensive house in its postcode, currently valued at over £800K.

74 Crescent House also has 6 bedrooms and is probably slightly older. It is interesting to wonder what sort of family might have occupied either of these properties  a century ago in very different social situations from today and how they acquired the wealth to buy them. It is a little surprising that both seem still to be single dwellings and not converted or subdivided.

Not far along is this pair of semis, numbers 77 and 78, Bramley Cottages, which are more modest but perhaps for the emerging 'middle class' as they are rather more substantial than simple worker cottages. Today they are each ranked about 10th most valuable in the village! Next door is the more substantial Bramley House. What caught our eye, however, are the two apparently blocked up window openings. The buildings are probably not old enough to have been subject to Window Tax, repealed in 1851. Also, they are much smaller than the other windows so were they just ornamental, perhaps?

These are just a few of the many properties, each with its own history and stories to tell. (No wonder David Olusoga's Houses Through Time are so fascinating) and we haven't included either the big estate house set a little back from Town Street or any of the smallest dwellings- many of which have been replaced by mid 20C (ie boring!) 'upgrades'.

We arrived at Marchmont Priory Lock preparing to operate it ourselves. When we passed here in mid July we had the assistance of the new occupier of the lock cottage who moved in early this year. However we were delighted that he popped out of his painting shed and had the gates open before we arrived. Mike took the opportunity of no other boat waiting to use the lock to check the weed hatch. As it happened, there was not much entangled save for a small amount of fishing line. Christine had a good chat with both the informal lock keeper and his wife - he maintains the traditions of canal Roses and Castles whilst she is an avid gardener (it shows!) No wonder it took over half an hour to transit a lock already set in our favour. We also failed to take any photos until we were well on our way.

Before long we were at Low Corner (where New Popham's Eau connects with the Old River Ouse - a 'failed' attempt at Fenland drainage) and the start of a huge wind farm. It took us around half an hour to pass from Low Corner to Reed Fen End, the extent of the wind farm.

It was then a pleasant, yet isolated, cruise along the level Fen waterway. Eventually we reached the railway line that marks the eastern edge of the town of March.

Most of the houses that abut the waterway have some form of mooring and plenty have boats. Alas a few seem to be abandoned or forgotten but most properties seem to enjoy their outlook. A number are for sale including this one with a couple of  summerhouses and other facilities to enable warm summer evenings to be properly enjoyed. Alas, you cannot buy just these as they go with a modern house on the market for a mere snip at £510K! The estate agent emphasises that "this home is perfect for someone wanting to enjoy the riverside with 75ft (approx.) landing stage plus substantial home with two garages, double carport and wrap around garden! Accommodation comprises lounge plus dining room, refitted kitchen/breakfast room, utility and WC, garden room plus conservatory, four bedrooms with ensuite and family bathroom!"

Around the corner we arrived at the Town Mooring with just one boat already there. They moor elsewhere on the Middle Level and left to return there mid afternoon. We were joined later by another boat but still plenty of space for any more arrivals.

Later in the afternoon Christine went into town to the nearby Sainsbury store for just a few items and  a charity show for a new top to go with the new trousers from Ely. Meanwhile Mike dived into numerous rabbit holes whilst researching the history of Upwell and catching up on progress at the Whitchurch Breach repair site.

7.7 Miles - 1 Lock

Upwell

Today's Navigation : Middle Level - Well Creek

The forecast was a possible inclusion of almost all types of weather (except snow and hail) In reality, it started a bit grey but with a slightly more than stiff breeze but still warm enough to avoid adding much extra clothing! Most of the morning was quite sunny.

We set off around 9.30, no need for a specially early start as our objective was Upwell. On this navigation moorings are well spaced apart and at least we know that the Church Mooring in Upwell is a good one and room for about three boats. 

Christine suggested to Mike that he should take a photo looking directly into the lock, one she describes as the ugliest she has seen!

Mike also wanted to see what was on the Advice to Navigators, a sign on the opposite side from the lock landing. It is also placed very close to the gates so that boaters are unlikely to be able to study it until it is too late! The print is miniscule. Fortunately when we could actually read it, it turns out to be rather limited and mainly about protecting the Middle Level Commissioners from any claim that they did not warn that boaters to cross on their own decision! Plus the usual things about lifejacket and anchor.

It is a quiet and pleasant cruise with a speed limit set unrealistically high at 4 mph. The restricted width and depth, with added reeds and rushes meant that we were lucky to get up to 2.5 mph.

At Nordelph was spotted an estate agents board outside the former windmill pumping station which we noted back in mid July (see) buy it was not then on the market. Particulars of Sale often give clues about the origins of the property. The windmill was built around 1650 to drive one of the many drainage pumping engines that were and still are the fundamental base of keeping the entire Fenland area from drowning. The conversion is over four levels and on a half acre site has umpteen additional buildings. On the market for between £500K and £550K.

Nordelph has what must be one of the grandest looking fronts of any village hall! The main part was built in 1905 as a farmhouse but has now been significantly extended to offer a wide range of facilities for all sorts of events and activities. It was comprehensively renovated in 2023. 

An object lesson in using online searches: Entering nordelph village hall history into Google returned in its AI Overview a description of an entirely different village hall some way distant in Thursford! That description did not match the photo at all.  Fortunately, the village hall's own website had a more credible story.

Nordelph Junction looks on the map as if it should link to Old Pophams Eau (which is navigable) but alas there is a small weir just visible in the photo that blocks access.

It has seemed to us that the haystacks are much larger this year. Certainly in the last few days we have spotted several that were clearly visible from some distance away.  This one uses a different shape of bale from those we have seen before - the ends are slightly rounded. The sign states Do Not Climb - not sure how (or indeed why) anyone would manage to climb as these bales have been stacked with quite smooth surfaces. Of course: litigious societies demand endless signs!

As we crossed Mullicourt Aqueduct we could ahead of us that water was energetically being pumped up from Main Drain at the level below. Of course, as soon as our camera was ready and we were alongside, the rush of water had declined to a dribble!

Not seen so far on this year's travels - a field full of pumpkins ready to pick. Peak demand is, of course, in time for Halloween but that is two months away. Will they last that long? Have they been a victim of early ripening like many other summer crops?

We have tried every time to get a proper photo of Outwell Parish Church. As well as being on a sharp bend under a difficult bridge followed by a narrow channel, large trees block the main view. This shot, much zoomed, manages a bit more than just the East end window that we have been limited to before.

Church Drove Bridge in Outwell has a keystone that indicates that it was bult in 1852.

Now in Upwell, the name on this house amused us: Up-to-date Cottage 1901. Wonder what its initial owners thought was so special about it?

Just a glimpse of a former mill in the small gap between houses on the waterfront. Sander's Mill was built in 1829 by a John Hopkins Sanders, a local miller. After conversion first to auxiliary steam and then to full electric power it continued operation until perhaps the early 1970s. By 1976 it had been converted to a hotel and later a pub but that closed in 2007 and within two years had had become adapted as a private residence. (see and with old pix)

Shortly after this we arrived at our planned destination and relieved to find space - in fact, it was entirely empty, not something we have experienced before.

6.4 Miles - 0 Locks

Salters Lode

Today's Navigations : River Great Ouse, Middle Level

Today began quite overcast - there had been heavy rain during the night but it had now stopped. Later in the morning some sunny spells arrived and overall it was quite mild, especially compared with the lows of yesterday.

We had been told yesterday that passage from Denver would be at 10:30 so Mike set off in good time - it is best to be early for these transits, just in case. We were away by 8:45, before either of the other two boats at the mooring seemed awake. When we arrived yesterday we wondered why the cruiser had moored leaving as much room ahead of it as it had. Howev ere, when we left we could see a water point and that the cruiser had left sufficient space for another cruiser to take on water. Would have been a bit short for a narrowboat.

Almost immediately we were under Hilgay Bridge.The road across the bridge joins Ten Mile Bank at a t-junction on the right. The red traffic lights shone brightly in the night!

As we approached the bridge from the mooring a small cruiser came upstream from Denver but as soon as it saw us leaving it make a quick turn and slotted straight in to where we had been. If the crews on either of the other boat were not yet awake they might be very surprised to look out and wonder how we had shrank so dramatically overnight! Talk about 'hot bunks' . . . 

We passed under the railway bridge that links Kings Lynn to Ely and stations beyond to London. Much of that route is quite busy so it is usually served by two four-coach sets linked together. As we reported in the blog in July we now know why it is only a single electrified track - so we were not puzzled this time! We saw a train in each direction, the first just across the fields a few minutes earlier and then this one. The timetable much be quite tight at times, even on a Sunday, as we think that the only place they could have passed was at Littleport where the line expands to two tracks.

A number of rowers were out this morning - their club is based at Denver Complex, just beside the main lock. Ones, twos and fours and we had to be careful to ensure that they passed us safely as none were coxed. The two fours had crews that looked as if they were taking to fitness via rowing a little later in life than ideal. We hoped that they enjoyed their outing as they were puffing quite hard! One of the crews had time to bid us a cheerful Good Morning as they passed by.

This widebeam called Tabula Rasa was moored just off the end of one of the closed EA moorings. We thought we knew the meaning - in modern terms, Clean Slate, but when we looked it up later it turns out a bit more complicated than we remembered. The phrase goes back to Greek and Roman times when it initially referred to a wax writing tablet which - like on old time school slate - could be wiped clear after every exercise. We wondered if the colour scheme for the coat was chosen to resemble slate and if the owners would be surprised to learn that originally it would have been brown! Later, the term was adopted by several philosophers and psychiatrists, including Locke and Freud, to describe their belief that humans were born with empty minds and that all knowledge was gained through teaching and experience and nothing was innate.

When we reached the only remaining, shortened, mooring at Jenyns, Denver, we realised that we had made a good call yesterday by stopping where we did as there were no spare spaces we could fit into.

Instead, we went directly to the lock landing - itself barely longer than we are. By now the sun was shining for most of the time as we walked to take a better look at the structure, . . .

. . .  and our boat waiting patiently.

Nothing seemed to be happening as we neared the supposed transit time so we made contact again with the lock keeper. He now felt that a safer time would be just after 11 so a little longer to wait and to be impressed by the upstream side of the sluices. Although the river below the lock is tidal, flow conditions are a combinations of the predictable tides from Kings Lynn and the unpredictable runoff from the Fdens via the Great Ouse and Bedford Rivers. The difference between them is much less easy to predict and decisions about tansits often have to be made on the day. The lock keeper told us that yesterday was the first time since early May that he has run off water into the nearby Relief Channel and then only the tiniest amount (1 cumec). As yesterday's rainfall makes its way down he may have to let down a bit more this afternoon.

Eventually he opened the gates to let us in we still had to left up to the downside level. He had already given us good instructions especially as the flow rate is quite strong. There are two silt banks that are gradually getting larger but the level was high enough to make it possible to pass between them. His recent photo gave us a chance to pick out landmark trees to aim for: about 40 degrees from the lock, across to the main channel but not too far and then straight down. It was, he said, better today to go beyond Salters Lode and turn to enter the lock against the flow.

Once we had left the calm confines of the lock we quickly became aware of the flow and how readily it could take us other than where we wanted to go! as expected we passed a single other narrowboat making the opposite transit. Steering needed some concentration so alas no photos.

We went as instructed just beyond Salters Lode by about a couple of boat lengths and then made a sharp turn, to come upstream. We soon realise that however wide the river might seem, it did not leave much space to choose where to turn - sideways from the bank.The lock is on a bend so the flow started to push us alarmingly close to the bank with a sharp turn into the lock. This was one of the very few times when we appreciated having every one of the 43 horsepower in our Beta Marine. In the end we managed to avoid the upstream posts guarding the entrance to the lock as well as the tyre wall on the other side and it was with some relief that we slid safely into the lock which Karen, the keeper, had already prepared for us. It was also good to see Paul (see here) still giving his wife some assistance in working the lock! (Not that she needed it . . . )

We enquired about where next we could moor and Karen kindly directed us to the far end of the lock landing where we could stay safely until the morning - she is not expecting any other transits from this side today. Also we can refill our water tank after Christine has done at least one load of washing. That should keep us going until we arrive at March where we will be leaving the boat for about ten days whilst we return home for a variety of appointments etc.

Late afternoon, Christine took a walk along the embankment below the lock to see when the river looks with the tide well out. In the first picture the guard fence can be see - yes, really, boats have to come into the lock this side of it! The second photo gives a good idea of just how low the level gets at low tide - high tide was around 9 this morning.

This last comment perhaps needs some additional information, otherwise you might be wondering why we had to wait until 11 to transit. There are two main factors. leaving as near to high tide as possible gives boats the best chance of clearing the silt banks and also at slack water the flow rate is lower. As the tide starts to ebb the flow rate increases quite dramatically at times. The other factor is the hight of the water under the entry arch into Salters Lode. There are concrete beams across the entrance gto strengthen the walls and boats have to be able to go under them. Hence the need to wait for sometime after high tide before making the transit. This is one reason why supervising a transit requires a member of staff at both ends - in any case both locks are keeper-operated. Of course, they are from different navigation authorities but know each other well. Boats also have to be released from either side in coordination to ensure that neither is kept waiting for the lock to be ready.

3.5 Miles - 2 Locks

Hilgay Bridge

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

The forecast for today was quite confident - it will be wet! Initially, it was still reasonably pleasant but we have to plan in the Denver Crossing in a way that does not lose us unnecessary days.

Christine was washing her hair and so Mike offered to do the shopping trip to Sainsbury to give her hassle-free time to dry off. We did not have a big top-up to do but it ended up with almost a trolley-ful load to haul back.

On the way Mike spotted an example of the recent trend to decorate post boxes with knitted characters. He thought that this one deserved a mention!

 By the time Mike had transferred the goods onto the boat, Christine was ready to leave - she had requested the opportunity to walk up to Mountain Warehouse beside the market square. She had bought a pair of shorter-length trousers on our earlier visit to Ely and would like another similar pair. As they were in their sale,she hoped for a bargain - in any case she still had a discount voucher.

Mobile phone signals in Ely are notoriously poor and down by the river, almost non existent. (That is why yesterday's blog took some time to upload fully) That meant that her attempts to let Mike know she was starting back were fraught with failed calls!

Meanwhile, Mike contacted Denver Complex to check the crossing times for tomorrow - we had printed off a sheet rom the GOBA website. This gave 12:15 but it was fortunate that Mike called as it turned out that there had been some misprint or miscalculation somewhere along the line (probably not GOBA's fault) and it should have said 10:30!

Eventually Christine connected both phones together and told Mike that she was already at the boater service station (water and elsan, we needed both) and that it was free at the moment. We could see that mooring from where we were overnight and there had been quite some competition for its use. So, Mike quickly cast off and headed up to meet her - she stayed put to fend off anyone trying to sneak in. As if!

By the time all was completed, including replacing one of the valves on one of the cassettes which had been damaged at the start of this trip, not sure how but it had a tendency to leak when being transported to the sanitary station. Fortunately we carry at least one spare for the main components likely to fail, but we must remember to replace it asap.

It was just on noon when we were ready to set off properly with some long, straight sections ahead of us. It has to be admitted that this is not the more fascinating part of the River Great Ouse, but pleasant enough.

Except that almost as soon as we departed, the promised rain arrived and it was unusually wet for the next hour or so. At least the river is wider and deeper and we could make good speed, most of the time we were just over 4mph without consuming large extra quantities of fuel.

Perhaps it was no surprise that there were no rowers out today - in better weather and at the weekend we would have expected to have to keep a keen eye on obstacles ahead! Look at those rain clouds rapidly gathering force.

We thought that we might pause at Littleport which has two good EA moorings in order to have a quick lunch break. Temptation was prevented as both were completely occupied - the only ones like that all day.

For the next hour, the rain left us. Although dry, it was chillier than the forecast suggested but the dampness and a stiff breeze did not help.

What to do about mooring? With the new, earlier crossing time we would have like to get to Denver today and be ready, with a slow start to set off. However, two of the three EQ moorings close to Denver have been closed recently (they are still listed on several of our maps including guides supposedly updated for this season) The remaining mooring, closest to Denver and the one we used on the way here, is long but can easily be filled up - remember this is the last August Bank Holiday - that is why the weather is so wet, of course, it is traditional. So, if we pressed right on we might have a problem that might mean a lengthy backtrack of about four miles to Hilgay, the next nearest now.

We had already decided to press on when we passed this good mooring at Brandon turn which was just as well as it might have been a bit unwelcome to ask these two fishers to move! The space was perhaps enough but manoeuvring might well have ruined their lines.

Around 2 the rain returned with a vengeance and the rest of the journey was not nice! In the end we came in at Hilgay - there was only just one space of sufficient size for us but then, we only needed one! We should be able to set off in good time tomorrow (promised to be dry) and, in any event, if we missed the crossing there is always the next day and we do still have a day in hand -  we left open the possibility of an extra day in Ely but in fact we did accomplish most of what we had in mind anyway. (Too wet to take a photo)

The cabin heating was quickly turned on and Mike started to return to normal temperature (he had his lunch on the go a little earlier, in the rain) Wet clothes were dried and we sat out the rest of the day. One bright spell did come by but we were in no mood to attempt a quick dash to Denver today. Some even heavier showers soon arrived so we knew we had done the right thing.

13.2 Miles - 0 Locks

Ely

 Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

We were aiming today, provided that the rain held off long enough, to get to Ely (partly so that we could make a return visit to the same restaurant as on the way up) We set off at 8 with bright blue skies but with a sometimes quite stiff breeze.

For quite a while we cruised with few landmarks except for the mechanics of land drainage - pumping stations, drainage outlets and the occasional larger drain joining the river.

It was just over two hours before we passed under the first road bridge of the day at Twenty Pence.

Just beyond is a small marina - only moorings as far as we can see - and only taking river cruisers, no room for narrowboats like ours!

We were startled by the sound of gunshot which only became more frequent. We couldn't see very much as the flood defences are high along the Old West River but we later discovered that here is Cambridge Gun Club. Clay Target shooting seems to be their main activity but there is also a rifle range and they offer raining in various small arms as well. Business certainly sounded brisk this morning.

There are two boatyards at Streetham, one is called The Lazy Otter just provides moorings but the other, Streetham Ferry Marina, seems to have both a dry dock and engineering facilities.

Shortly passing The Lazy Otter we could see a large industrial unit nearby but it is low lying so only the hint of it is in this photo! Its purpose was not obvious but we later found that it is home to NutraGrow, an organic plant fertiliser. The farm grow material that is fed into a biodigester and after some processing out comes either a liquid feed or fertiliser pellets.

One day we will pass Streetham Old Pumping Station when it is open but as it currently only does so on Sundays and Bank Holidays we missed again (but close with the Bank Holiday bit!)

After nearly four hours of cruising we arrived at Pope's Corner where the main river flow joins from the River Cam. The speed limit now goes up from 4mph to 7mph (one oncoming cruiser was taking full advantage!) We, of course did not quite match that, but nevertheless completed most of the remaining reach to the edge of Ely very much faster than earlier.

The next landmark is the entrance to Soham Lode. At one time it was possible to navigate to the village itself but alas no longer. It certainly looked very weed-clogged.

After passing under a couple of railway bridges and two bypasses (the first edition and the recent replacement) and the popular Riverside Inn, we came to the centre of the city but would we find a mooring? With almost all of the EA visitor moorings all but unoccupied this morning we had hopes of being able to return to the spot we took a few weeks back. The town moorings had space but we could then see that the open area opposite the entrance to Cathedral Marina was all taken so it was the town mooring this time. The down side is that the wall is rather high above our boat gunnel - much more suitable for giant cruisers!

It is sometimes a disappointment to return to a place that you have been to before and with good memories. As we had such a great meal ate the Ely Turkish Restaurant on the way up about a month ago, we chanced our luck by going again this evening. We are pleased to say that we just a good an experience as before and can thoroughly commend them. As well as good food they are an exceptionally friendly group.

11.8 Miles - 0 Locks