Fotheringhay

Today's Navigation : River Nene

When we awoke the sky was very grey with universal overcast clouds.

But by the time we were pushing away from the pontoon and coming out of the marina entrance, signs of blue sky were just beginning to show.

Very soon we arrived at Lower Barnwwell Lock which had been electrified. This was fortunate as there was a notice in the control cabinet asking boaters to leave the guillotine gate closed, normally to be raised. This change was only introduced a few days ago and is intended to help with low water levels in the next reach.

By the time we had left the lock and rejoined the main river stream, the sky as very blue but with some interesting streaked cloud patterns.

The A605 - effectively the Oundle Bypass - crosses the river at a point where it follows the former railway line (yes, that one again!) and although the main span is new and concrete, the approach utilises the old rail viaduct built from bricks.

In the middle of nowhere (plenty of those in these parts!) we passed this floating structure. No doubt it is classed as a houseboat but essentially a shed on a pontoon! Its occupants access by car across the adjoining field.

Ashton Lock, sadly, is still manual but although quite hard work, definitely smoother than the three previous ones. We chatted to a man who arrived at the lock through a hidden gate and fence. It turned out that not only does he and his wife live on a boat on the short arm above the lock, but also they own the surrounding land.

Nearing Cotterstock there was an unusually long straight section - mostly this river twists and turns as it finds (and then changes) its route along the wide flood plain.

We shared Cotterstock Lock (thankfully electrified) with a small but wide cruiser which had turned around just after Ashton Lock. They seemed somewhat inexperienced and we are not sure whether they have ever shared before! Fortunately we fitted comfortably as we are not sure what would happen if we pushed the Emergency Stop button in the event that a boat became stuck or hung up on a cill. Once the Raise button is hit it continues the small emptying lift even if the finger is removed. In the main raising phase, taking the finger off the button causes it to stop immediately. Ideally, if a boat gets stuck the best thing is to close down the emptying asap. we missed a photo of the other boat as they were holding back until we had cleared the very short lock landing below.

Another bird box (or whatever!) but this one has a solar input. We wondered if this powered a remote camera or counted how many residents used it.

Cotterstock Church is a little further on and looks worth a visit but, as almost always, no way off the boat anywhere nearby.

We saw Tansor Church just a few hundred metres later but close up it is entirely hidden by trees. It is also a long way from Cotterstock - by road or by foot!

The small boat also joined us at Perio Lock which is yet another manual lock. Despite prompting from Christine they did not attempt to lend Mike some assistance with the gate opening.

We were surprised to spot a FOTRN mooring called Fir Trees. It is not on any of our lists so perhaps it is quite new. It is barely a boat's length, but otherwise looks useful.

Suddenly, as we rounded yet another bend, Fotheringhay Church popped up on the horizon. 

As well as our destination for tonight, we wanted to top up our water tank after a load of laundry as we were coming along. This proved extremely difficult to get ashore and connect the hosepipe = remarkably unsafe to access for a public agency. It took us five attempts before we worked out a way to take lines to the mooring posts on the bank.

After that we moved to the section the other side of the bridge. This was almost as fraught. A boat had already moored right in the middle - it later transpired that this was the only place where they could get even close to the bank, let along alongside. However they did assist when we made another approach at a different part of the bank Our gangplank proved necessary to get ashore.

This is a popular spot for water sports - especially at the moment SUPs (except that most of those out today could not quite master the standing up bit!) A while after mooring we realised that we had lost the plastic box used to store our hosepipe, presumably taken by the wind. Just as Mike was transferring stuff out of another box, some passing paddlers came close and Mike asked if they could look lout for it as they passed under the bridge. "You mean, like this one," they said, pointing to another paddle board. They had seen it some distance downstream and thought that they would litter pick as it did not enhance the environment. They were happy to re-unite it with its owner.

Late afternoon, with most of the meal prepare but not cooked, Mike decided, perhaps a little too casually, to take a leap ashore and explore Fotheringhay Castle. We were moored right next to  the memorial stone commemorating the execution of Mary Queen of Scots in 1587 after she had given Elizabeth I cause to think that Mary was about to challenge her regal position and also re-introduce Catholicism as the preferred religious organisation.

All that remains of the once impressive castle is the huge mound, in its day the most defensive military technology available.

As Mike walked around to find the steps up to the top, he spotted this group of thistle and poppy (the latter now past its flowering stage) Both flowers at one time had significance in English and Scottish politics.

After weeks of hot weather, the path to the top was not easy! The steps have been badly eroded and the surface is largely loose fine gravel and hence rather slippery. In the end he made it - but not quite upright until another walked offered him a hand to stand properly!

The view from the top was terrific - at one stage a beautiful red kite flew around the people on the top and at that level, very  close. Its wonderful markings were most clear. (Sorry, the camera missed it all)

Coming back down was even harder! With luck not too many people had to witness Mike's most ungainly scramble backwards! But he did return to the river level in one piece. Alas, by this stage his balance felt decidedly challenged and walking the gangplank unattractive until another walker offered him a stabilising hand! At times it is good to realise just how incredibly helpful can sometimes be, with no asking and no reward.

8.1 Miles - 4 Locks

Oundle Marina

Today's Navigation : River Nene

Today has grally been much fresher, with the sun being moderated by a sprinkling of clouds and a fairly strong breeze. We were away just after 8 - a little later than planned but as we had come down Islip Lock last night, we had a slighter easier run today. We decided yesterday that we would aim to find an overnight mooring in Oundle Marina as otherwise there are no other options that are not too soon or too late.

We were quietly tucked away for the night and had no distractions at all. 

Alongside the mooring is Middle Nene Sailing Club, based on a former quarry that was started and exhausted in the 20C. 

The next lock was at Titchmarsh. We expected this to be still manually operated but at least it is in the cooler part of the day. 

The lock landing is on a slight bend and so we could not see clearly down to the guillotine gate until Mike began his reluctant trudge down to The Wheel.

But just wait! What is this? A brand new, probably this spring, electric operation! Hooray . . .

Below the lock, alongside which is a splendid former mill, is Middle Nene Cruising Club.

Looks like someone is trying to get a cheap mooring!

The King's Arms pub at Wadenhoe has now closed and planning is being sought to convert it to other uses. There has long been a very useful waterpoint here (as with all facilities, they are sparse on the river, to say the least). So there has been concern locally that it may also be lost but at the moment is available. We were leaving filling the water tank until Oundle but wanted to check it out. As can be seen (or not) in the photo is is in danger of being engulfed by untended vegetation.

Just before this we had managed avoid numerous wild swimmers - all women as it happened (may be it is a restricted club) but most did now what they were doing and several used floatation markers. Alongside the aforementioned water point is the village hall and there was quite a gathering there, with more swimmers joining entering the water. No doubt they are all TWATS (see)

In the land of Squires and Spires, yet another standing just back from the river and a small hill should be no surprise but this is Achurch! Yes, that is its name, and that of the tiny village, and dates back to 13C but extensively restored in 19C. In the 2021 census the population was 188, including the nearby Thorpe Waterville.

The road bridge below Lilford Lock is more substantial and almost ornate than most others across the river.

We have found Upper Barnwell lock quite difficult above - it seems likely that the trees on one side and the mill on the other funnel the prevailing wind and make mooring on the lock landing difficult. We had to help a singlehander here in 2018 (see) Even prepared, it was still quite a struggle to get the boat alomgside and tied firmly to a bollard.

With luck on our side, two young chaps were sitting by the lock having an early picnic lunch. They were more than ready to end a hand. Firstly, they opened the top door (opposite where Mike was doing the same) so that Christine had a wider target to aim for once set free. Secondly, as Mike was concerned that Christine might lose control of the boat after untying and before she could get back on  board, he persuaded them to untie and hand the rope with Christine staying on board. In the end these provisions worked a treat and she came into the lock very smoothly.

The turning into Oundle Marina is very sharp from upstream but - perhaps because there was no-one looking - we managed it dead centre. The marina opened just over 60 years ago which must make it one of the early ones. It is laid out very openly and was formed from some disused gravel pits.

We were warmly welcomed and helped to tie up alongside the fuelling station. We were then given a choice of three nearby pontoons and opted for the one that meant that the wind would be blowing us sideways onto it, making it much easer to control.

8.2 Miles - 4 Locks

Thrapston

Today's Navigation : River Nene

The heat wave continues and so does our pattern of early starts. Today we were away about 7:45 with a very short run to Irthlingborough Lock.

At first Mike thought we were to be assisted by a group of volunteers but it turned out that they were more interested in keeping the grass cut short! We were joined in the lock by another boat that had made an even earlier start - perhaps that is why they were a bit vague about where they had come from and where they were going!

A Mike arrived at the control box, a young couple that live nearby asked about how the lock works. As doing is the best way of learning (or so I told them!) I handed the lock key to the lass and set her to work at the vee gates. Both of them were very keen to learn as much as they could and seemed to enjoy the participation. They left ready to start work (IT User Support, from home) They can just be seen to the right of the lock.

The other boat left first but soon after we passed them as they were mooring up for the rest of the day at the FOTRN Stanwick Lake Mooring.

We do not know if this box was built for a specific species of inhabitant but it is visible from some distance away. Could it be owls, other raptors, bats or smaller birds - but the entrance did seem quite wide.

And so to Upper Ringstead. The blog in 2018 indicates that this was a shock to the system - imagine how it impacted us this time!

Yes, here is the dreaded wheel of misfortune! It takes just under 100 full turns to raise of lower the gate. Mike had come prepared with a recommended aid, a handle to fit into one of the holes that once did attach a handle. Alas, despite all the preparation, the bolts in the new handles were just one size too large. The lift mechanism itself seemed to lack lubrication as it groaned every inch of the way.

Between Upper and Lower Ringstead Locks we passed under a bridge of the same Peterborough and Northampton line that has tracked us and will still do - crossing our path several times today. Here, the bridge does not seem to have found a new life but further on it forms part of a long distance path.

Lower Ringstead brought a little respite as it no longer has a Wheel. So, Christine opted to take over operation leaving Mike on the boat. However, it brought its on wrinkle of difficulty - the water level above was some what above that of the lock and we had to use both slackers and brute force to get through.

Mike took the boat down to the lower landing whilst Christine finished up but she needed help from a local lady to persuade the gate out onto the road to open. Conversation followed and it turned out that she farms the nearby land including a specialist fishing lake alongside the lock. They also concentrate on growing a sort of grass that is used by certain power stations.

Above and below the lock is Willy Watt Marina, one of the earlier leisure boating facilities on  the river. It is now partnered with the very new Blackthorn Lake Marina we passed a little earlier. Despite signs offering various facilities, including a cafe and a chandlery, it did not seem easy to gain access. Strong security fencing keeps marina and navigation apart.

This modest bridge and entry is actually the access to a small set of moorings called Woodford Riverside.  We could find scant information about it and another boater reported several years ago that the original owners had retired. The company was dissolved in 2016 but still seems to operate with that name, no longer showing on the bridge but in very small letters at the entrance from the nearest lane. Somehow, boats still moor there.

The parish church at Woodford looks splendid and quite substantial for the size of the village. A FOTRN mooring now exists a couple of fields upstream but no easy access to Sunday church!

Woodford Lock was the second with a wheel but the gate moved much more smoothly. Still a lot of effort. Strangely, the gate had been left half way and also one slacker at the top part open.

That line again - now a footpath from Thrapston.

And so the Denford, our last lock today. The wheel was much easier to turn but the weight of the gate hung even heavier.

A couple with a paddle board has set up camp on the lower lock landing. Fortunately we manage to avoid tipping them into the water with our lines.

We had hopes of finding our next mooring at Islip Bridge, part of Thrapston. It is tucked away just off the main river and very close to the old bridge. It is one of the few places close to food shops. As we turned in we could see space, if a bit cramped by two awkwardly tied up canoes. It is a tricky manoeuvre but as we arrived alongside we could see a very small notice saying that the mooring was closed for important maintenance. Not that much was happening. So it was a long reverse out and a sharp twist under the navigation arch. It would have been helpful to have shown a sign visible from the main stream of the river. As you can imagine, we failed to photograph these antics!

Fortunately there is a small FOTRN mooring just before the next lock where we could pull in. However, there is no obvious way into town. Lucky we are not too desperate! On the other hand, no passing footfall - but a few wild swimmers from the opposite bank.

After a relaxing afternoon, about 5.15 another boat arrived from the lock below, clearly looking to moor at this spot. We could not really make out why but they had turned down the good EA mooring just below the lock and were trying really hard to tie up behind us. They had to rest their stern against ours so not really comfortable.

In any case, Christine had been wondering whether to move down through Islip Lock to make it one less for tomorrow. So we told them that we would make it easier for them and leave the space to them - and their dog.

We might have been less generous if we had thought that the next lock had a dreaded wheel but fortunately (for them) we understood that it was electrified - and it was.

After avoiding all the water users (there were others out of this shot) we continued down to the lock and passed through quite readily although we did have to deal with a log blocking one of the vee doors.

Under a footbridge and then we found the mooring - completely empty! Tying up was simplicity itself - the bollards have risers in case the river floods!

8.2 Miles - 6 Locks