St Neots

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

Another bright and sunny morning greeted us as we awoke - a teeny bit of a lie in today, unplanned! (We have to confess as you could tell from the amount of the bridge in sunshine!)

It was just after nine by the time we cast off and crossed over to the lock on the opposite bank. Here we could take a closer look at the structure that Christine had spotted from the opposite bank last night.Alas we are really no wiser about its origins but we could just be convinced that it was the downstream wing wall with the recess for the heel of one of the lower lock gates. But we could equally be convinced by a better story . . .

The climb down the lock ladder did not seem attractive to Mike so he persuaded Christine to pick him up at the lower lock landing.

And so to Roxton Lock, our nemesis a couple of days ago. We are glad to report that there were no similar delays today. However, the view from the upper lock landing illustrates how easy it is for dogs to mistake the gathering weed growth for an altogether more substantial green lawn. Alas, it does happen from time to time.

This lock has a weir and as this photo shows there is not a great deal of depth to the water going over today. 

The weed has even invaded the lock chamber itself.

There is then a long reach through Tempsford and Wyboston before the next lock. Shortly after leaving Roxton we spotted this entry into our Unusual Boats gallery. OK, so inside the M25 such conversions are not so rare but we have not seen one out here for some time. It definitely looks as if it is not intended to move, trapped as it is by the rapid growth of the reed bed.

Back under the A1 bridges at Tempsford with the older one here in the foreground and the new one in the distance with Kelpie Marine in between.

There is a sorry sight at the end of the moorings just above the bridges. It seems that a cruiser was also consumed in the fire and its remains can be seen sunken alongside. According to the BBC, the incident happened only a few days ago. (The report incorrectly locates the fire between the two bridges)

The new bridge being built for an extension to the A431, bypassing St Neots, marches like several others on a long viaduct across the valley. The intersection with the A1 at the Black Cat roundabout is just at the top of this incline.

On the opposite bank, the construction of an embankment to connect to the cross country route is not as well advanced. The scheme is called Black Cat to Caxton Gibbet  and is scheduled to be open next Spring. This project will replace the 1980's southern bypass which proved to be too close to the town to be as effective for today's traffic as it was hoped.

Time for elevenses? (There were several more drinkers when we took the camera out but a number proved camera shy)

We are now on a much wider part of the River Great Ouse.

As we started to pass alongside the Wyboston Leisure Park we spotted this on the opposite bank. It looks as if it was originally a wharf, perhaps loading from a nearby sand and gravel quarry. However, there is nothing to explain its presence or its former use on any of our older maps.

In the foreground is part of a golf course with the water slides of the leisure park (aka Ride Leisure Aqua Park) just visible in the distance, across the lake, also used for a variety of other water activities.

When we passed the entrance to Eynesbury Marina (largely a housing development around a lake) guarded by a lift bridge we knew that we were not far from Eaton Socon.

This is Black Trap Weir. According to the information panel at Eaton Socon lock, there was a bridge, Five Arches, that was pulled down on the 1960s to make way for the construction of the weir and footbridge. 

The part of the non-navigable river at this part was known as Five Arches Pool, a popular swimming place. (See here and here for old photos before some the newer works.) White Traps was the name of another footbridge just downstream from Black Traps.

From the information board: Children would learn to swim in the brook between the traps and then progress to the 'Five Arches Pool' where the water was deeper.

Eaton Socon brings us back onto the more common guillotine locks - less walking needed as we now know! This time we were also lucky that a boat has just come up so the top gate was open for us to go straight in. Since the lock landing is located awkwardly just beyond the lock entrance we gained further relief!

We continued on to St Neots Bridge where we moored in exactly the same place as on the way up. It is the nearest to the shops - we wanted to do an intermediate top up at Waitrose just nearby. Actually the riverside path is 19 steps down a staircase from the main road - not easy, as Mike discovered later, when hauling a heavy shopping trolley!

As we were completing the last section from Eaton Socon lock, Mike detected a strange sound from the prop. It ceased when the engine was taken out of gear so it seemed that we might have caught something. The rhythmic knocking sound suggested that it might have been a fishing line with something weighted at the end. After we moored, Mike investigated via the weed hatch and his surmise was spot on. Two weights and also a nasty hidden hook. We were not aware when we caught this but someone will be a bit annoyed that they went to sleep on the job.

After lunch we walked across the bridge to the Market Square. The supermarket is through the tiny Cross Keys Mews to the left of this photo. After we had filled the trolley and shopping bag, Mike was despatched back to the boat whilst Christine went in search (successfully) for a tasty cake for tea. 

The mews takes its name from the Cross Keys coaching inn, parts of which date back to the 17C. The mews only closed as a mail and passenger hub in 1989 when it was converted into a small arcade of tiny shops.

7.9 Miles - 3 Locks

Great Barford

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

Our need to buy fuel remains a pressing issue but there is little we can do about it today. We have been cruising at a conservative engine revs and also we do not need to use the engine when moored up just to charge the batteries. A couple of hours cruising is usually enough to reach 100% which will then last until next morning. Of course we are also only using the Webasto heater for water and not heating.

Before leaving, Mike found the dipstick which we used on Take Five in the days before fuel gauges became standard on canal boats. The immediate concern had been that the gauge might be overstating the amount left but, somewhat to our surprise, it is probably the other way and the depth (quantity of fuel) should get us to Hartford Marina which is the next place that we have established is currently able to supply us. Fingers still crossed, however.

Opposite our mooring is the Star Club rowing base and it was being well used today. Singles, doubles, fours and eights, all on the move.

At times there was almost a traffic jam as about eight boats attempted to turn around at the same place! (Six in the photo alone)

This eight was for ladies with a more mature disposition!

On The Embankment, on the opposite side from us, stands the County Court, an imposing if austere brick building. Designed in the Gothic Revival style it opened in 1881.

Next along is the Swan Hotel, built right at the end of the 18th century for the then Duke of Bedford, replacing an even older medieval coaching inn.

Some of  the coxless crews are better at pulling on their blades than keeping a lookout for what lies behind them. This crew only just spotted us before they ran into our stern! Their reaction seemed to suggest that they thought that we had no right to be there (despite having just come under the designated arch for boats at the Town Bridge!)

Bedford Castle Mound is still very prominent from the river but it is all that remains of a motte and bailey built for King Henry I right at the start of the 12thC, mainly to reinforce his position in various battles with his barons. After some extensions it featured in a famous Siege of 1224 after which Henry III ordered it to be substantially demolished. Partly restored under the Commonwealth it soon ceased to have a military significance and gradually succumbed to the commercial pressure for housing in the prosperous town centre.

Fortunately there was a lull in rowing when we manoeuvred into Bedford Lock. Unfortunately it had been emptied overnight so we had to tie up on the lock landing - just downstream - until it was ready for Mike to bring the boat in. Reversing back and then turning would have led to an 'interesting' engagement with the rowers had there been any around at that moment.

We failed to spot this item yesterday: a plaque says, "The last remaining lock winding wheel on the River Great Ouse before Bedford lock was electrified in 2012". The lock is even narrower than the next few (see Roxton Lock!)

The view below the lock shows how well kept the riverside has been in this town, unlike some others where its presence is either ignored or even resented. Recreationally it is well used, seemingly respected, and many folk take a close interest in a passing boat - good for recruiting help as the lower gates are still somewhat stiff especially in fully closing. The interlock with the guillotine control means that they have to leave no gap at all. Balance beams made short for the footbridge do not help!

We passed a number of GOBA moorings which are generally in pleasant rural locations. Unfortunately we were unable to make much use of them as they are mostly in need of attention to make it possible to moor a narrowboat.

The river was very busy in the time of water borne transport but the upper part gradually decayed until the start of the leisure market. Under various management structures, progress was steady until the last link to connect to Bedford, Castle Mill Lock was completely rebuilt and opened in 1978. It is now exceptionally deep and, in normal river conditions. with such a large freeboard over the upper level that narrowboats cabin roofs barely reach the lock side! Pity that the Milton Keynes to Bedford Link which was first surveyed and designed by John Rennie in 1812, has not progressed. Certainly, in today's leisure boating market, this would create an impressive circular route and bring innumerable visitors to the upper parts of the River Great Ouse, which is currently underused.

When we arrived a group of canoes was in the process of negotiating their way up. It is not a fast filling lock at best but they were rightly being cautious about how they opened the sluice. When the way was clear Christine brought our boat in and then a small cruiser managed to fit in behind. The view from the lower lock landing shows how impressive the whole scheme is.

We promised yesterday to show a photo of the length of the Castle Mill Viaduct from downstream. Well, as you can see, a large embankment at the water's edge left only a thin sliver to be seen from the boat!

This intriguing structure bears the name The Charles Collection. We are not sure if there will more but its website describes it as a 'secluded treehouse escape for up to seven guests'. Not sure how much it costs in season but in November it is £625 per night - it has better be as good as it says, but the sauna and hot tub is included!

The Danish Camp was certainly very busy today and many visitors were enjoying their bar drinks and lunches. With sunshine like today, what could be pleasanter.

Next came Willington Lock but with a three generation group of interested onlookers to assist we were able to work through in (for us) record time!

We wrote about the Old Mill Lock yesterday but this is a slightly clearer picture - still not the best and we missed the better angle for it! At just the right point it is possible from the river to see right through the former lock chamber.

On the run in to Great Barford and Bridge we encountered a proper armada of paddle boards. The grassy bank in front of the pub is described as the village green and it was being well used today. Some keen paddlers had even come from Watford (well, they do have family living nearby!) The activity has grown rapidly in the last few years but it has brought a whole new generation of younger people into using the waterways.

Our initial reason for mooring here was to fill up the water tank, a bit depleted after processing a load of washing this morning. However, once we had done that we decided that as this was actually the end of today's planned cruise, it was OK to put off going any further until the morrow! We moved forward two boat lengths to the same spot as two nights ago.

Late afternoon, Christine took a walk over the long weir bridge to the opposite side. Close to the upper lock landing she found an odd stone remnant. We will take a closer look when we set off tomorrow but have not found any mention of it anywhere, Perhaps it related to the old lock which, according to old OS maps, was locate there, just a little upstream of the new lock.

8.0 Miles - 4 Locks

Bedford

Today's Navigation : Great River Ouse

When Mike woke at around half past six the view from the front cabin was quite spectacular as the rising sun caught the stonework of Great Barford Bridge.

Before leaving Great Barford, Mike moved the boat a very short distance forward so that we could fill the water tank. The tap provided an exceptionally good flow rate.

By the time we were ready to set off properly, the sun had risen somewhat and move d around so that more of the bridge was in sunlight - but the colours of the stonework were rather more muted.

We picked up from another boater familiar with the Bedford waters that narrowboats have had recent difficulty navigating the arch marked one way from this direction as the rapidly expanding reeds on the upstream side now left insufficient room for a longer boat to make the turn comfortably. We had been advised to take the No Entry route - at least we could see that there was no immediate oncoming traffic. Interestingly, there is no directional signage on the other side.

Our route today was quite winding and the various distinct changes of direction made it hard to get the best pictures at times!

Old Mill Lock has long been abandoned, along with all of the former mill structures. It was quite a narrow lock and we have to presume that it ceased being used well before all the other locks were widend.

At first we assumed that this bridge must have been a former railway bridge - we will see plenty today, working and retired. We saw a large construction vehicle pass over laden with construction  materials. We later discovered that just to one side of he river is a fairly new sand quarry and that the bridge has only just started to appear on our various maps. As far as we have been able to discover, the site is owned by Breedon, a supplier of ready mix concrete and other materials and has been operating in this area for two or three decades. We guess that this bridge links the older site to the north with a new patch to the south of the river, enabling them to continue operations when the older sections are worked out. It also appears that the worked out pits are being used as waste landfill sites. In any event the bridge is new and purpose built!

And so to our first lock of the day: Willington. A substantial weir sits alongside the lock and there was a reasonable flow over it. (In general there were plenty of signs that the river levels are noticeably down.

At all four of today's locks we could recruit interested onlookers to assist. Here this made quite a bit of reduction in the amount of walking back and forth so we came through quicker than some.

Danish Camp is now largely an eating place but with plenty of outdoor space, just right for a day like today. However, its name comes from the belief (see) that this w cruise.as once an important site occupied by invading Danes. There used to be a moated island just behind.

Some of the next stretches - perhaps a little narrower - has trees grown up to cover right over the water, making it an especially attractive cruise.

Castle Mill Viaduct is quite long, bringing the busy A421 down from the A1. Unfortunately we could not find a spot were we could capture this in a photo - try again on the return?

Castle Mills Lock was the lock that prevented us from visiting Bedford back in 2010 when we first came this way, along with Andrew (frightening to look back at how few days we took over this river!) The structure alongside is not quite the same as at the previous lock which was a fixed height weir. Here we have more of a sluice with the ability to control the height of the water and hence the flow downstream. Some other locks we have noticed that they also have sluices, usually similar to the lock guillotine gates, but on a lengthy bypass and often almost out of view.

This lock dates from restoration projects in the 1970's and has one distinctive feature - apart from being usually deep. Instead of conventional slackers on each gate there are two placed centrally which let water in and out from the middle position. This is helpful when ascending as it tends to keep a boat in the same position as it rises.

Unusually there were two boats waiting to come down so it was in any case less work for Mike to do!

After a number of double pointed locks it was a surprise to return to guillotine locks for the final two, here at Cardington. Two very enthusiastic ladies were very willing to assist! They are part of a group in the early stages of planning a joint hire boat cruise.

We called in at Priory Marina as we wanted to used their elsan and rubbish facilities - we were disappointed earlier when a message came that they did, it seems, not have enough room to accommodate us tonight. We hiung about on the visitor mooring to have our lunch but were eventually dispossessed (in a very kindly way) by the trip boat John Bunyan that his hosted in this marina - they wanted to use the pump-out machine we we were right beside!

Yet another abandoned railway bridge, now repurposed as part of the Bedford to Sandy Country Way. Originally this was part of the Bedford and Cambridge Line, long closed. Only now is the East West Main Line eventually linking Oxford and Cambridge directly but having to find an entirely new route as too much of the original has been built over.

There is an exceptional number of bridges over the river in Bedford. Be grateful that we will not bore you with all of them! Instead let us turn to Bedford Lock. This is again a smaller lock, at only 3.3 m width it is barely more than a traditional narrow lock. It too has a guillotine at the upper end. A small girl with her mother was delighted to be asked to help operate the Gate Controls. At the end, the watching crowd (it is Saturday, sunny and in a large park area!) gave her a round of applause.

We turned left - right is a short arm closely parallel to the lower river level - out onto the wide reach through the centre of Bedford. County Bridge is perhaps the more elegant but two sets of railway bridges, both carrying busy electrified lines, were especially low and we had to duck right down to cabin roof level to avoid decapitation. Quite difficult to steer straight underneath them when unable to see where we were going.

After the second railway bridge we decided that we had done enough to satisfy our desire to tick Bedford off our list of Navigation Places We Have Visited. Kempston, the end of the navigable river, is on the IWA Silver Propellor Challenge but too many of them are barely accessible so we have not risen to that challenge! We also learned from another boater that the current water level there make it likely that we could not turn and would have had a long section of reversing.

We had already decided that the town mooring just before a newish footbridge offered definitely the best overnight mooring for some distance (back to where we started today, probably) Only one other boat was moored - our neighbours from two nights ago at St Neots.

8.9 Miles - 4 Locks