Winwick

Today's Canal - Grand Union Leicester Branch

The weather today seems to confirm that the months of May and April appear to have swapped places in the climate calendar. Just a few brief sunny spells interrupted the monotonous grey skies and chilly temperatures.

Last night Mike failed to spot the half-mile distance marker that he had previously recorded close to our mooring spot. Before leaving he went to look for it - and take a better close up photo - initially looking in the wrong direction only to discover it was directly opposite out center line! However there is now much more vegetation and he had to remove a little to gain a clear view of the sign.

We were late setting up this morning, thanks in part to Mike having had a wakeful patch around 2 am, then sleeping in a  chair for three hours only to find that it was all but 8 o'clock when he finally got up! In the end it was after 10:30 before we started to cast off.

Very soon we passed under a railway bridge that carries the electrified line through Northampton. It leaves the West Coat Main Line near Blisworth and rejoins it at Hillmorton. It is one of the two railway bridges that we featured in our 1st May blog. It was included in the electrification plan to provide additional capacity for slower passenger and freight traffic. This, of course, interacts with the main arguments for HS2 (possibly!)

Shortly after we entered Crick Tunnel. Another straight, two-way tunnel that only gushes water down the steerers neck about 75m from the northern end. We took just over the advertised 15 minutes passage, due mostly to the four oncoming boats that we had to pass.

Crick, immediately after the tunnel, has two marinas. First is the very small Crick Wharf Marina. At one tome ABNB, a canal boat brokerage known for its stylish brochures, was based here but they have now moved up the canal to North Kilworth.

At one time there was a thriving cafe in the old wharf buildings but that has closed. Today the area is being used to crane new boats onto the water.

Just beyond the A428 road bridge is the much larger Crick Marina, now part of the growing Aquavista group. It even has three separate entrances and is home gto the annual Crick Boat Show at the end of May Bank Holiday. Soon the canal will be very busy with many boats arriving to take part but as yet it was still quiet with lots of mooring available.

Crack's Hill is a prominent landmark with a lot of history. It is understood that the Romans used it as a sentry point for Watling Street which passes nearby. There is also said to be evidence of an earlier Iron Age Fort.

We were now heading out into the countryside with few nearby villages or even hamlets. The next few miles are very much a contour canal - the summit pound between Watford and Foxton Locks is 23 miles in length and includes a short arm up to the village of Welford, mainly as a feeder from the Welford and Sulby reservoirs to keep the pound topped up. (A lot of water is also pumped up below the Watford flight from the Main Line)

Yelvertoft Marina offers around 150 spaces in quite isolated open countryside. It opened in 2010 after many years in  the planning. We have called there in the past for diesel but we are not yet ready for that this time.

We opted to stop just after  Bridge 24 as we spotted some armco complete with rings. It was also now 1 o'clock and lunchtime. (We only used one ring as the spacing was not suitable for our length but the armco readily took a goat chain)

The nearest place is Winwick, a tiny hamlet that Wikipedia describes as 'a lost settlement' with perhaps a  couple of dozen houses. There is a manor house nearby and the parish church is still in use with one evening service a month. Some of the history of Winwick can be found  here and here.

5.9 Miles - 0 Locks

Watford (Gap)

Today's Canals : Grand Union Main Line, Leicester Branch

Today was a generally grey but with some very brief sunny spells and no rain.

As our overnight mooring shows, there had been quite a bit of rain since we moored up yesterday but by the time we were out and about it had stopped.

We have photographed the former lock cottage alongside the Top Lock (just poking into the left of the photo) many times before but until not really noticed that the cottage behind., Based on its house numbering, this was also a canal company property at one time, perhaps for a lengthsman as well as the one for a lock keeper. Just before we set off, Christine noticed that one of the volunteer lock keepers hse had had a unfinished conversation with yesterday was just helping boats through the top lock so she went to have a bit more of a chat. It transpired that he was once taught about handling a canal boat by Jack Monk, one of the last Number Ones. We knew him when we moored our tiny Fiona alongside Bishop Meadow Lock in Loughborough in the late 1960s. We too found him very willing to pass on his experience and expertise.

We were off just after 9:15 and soon after arrived at the entrance to Braunston Tunnel. This is a two way tunnel - unless a wide beam boat is booked (they are restricted to an early morning slot!)

The entrance sign suggests a transit time of 37 minutes (nearly always noticeable optimistic, some more than others) so it was no surprise that we emerged at the southern end some 25 minutes after setting off. We met only one boat coming the other way which we both managed to negotiate without incident! The tunnel is fairly dry apart from just one drenching only 50m from the exit!

The tunnel approach from the south is a straight tree-lined section which is very pleasant.

Forty minutes later we arrived at Norton Junction where we had to make a very sharp turn left to face almost the same direction in which we had just come! We were  now entering the Leicester Section of the Grand Union. A former Toll House stands guard over the junction, catching boats in every direction to pay their dues.

Passing under the modern A5 road bridge we had one of the better sunny spells of the day.

The former pub, now South Asian Restaurant, by the Welton Station road bridge now features 'pod dining'. Their futuristic eating spaces (a development from former Covid measures?) cost £35 to book (on top of the costs of the meal!) Presumably they are a good source of income but, judging by some reviews, not everyone is convinced.

We were now fast approaching the noisy M1 our first glimpse is just a small field away from the canal.

And so we arrive at the bottom of the Watford flight of locks. Nearby is the famous Watford Gap Service station where in the early days of motorway driving, many folk came to see what the first of this new generation was like in 1959. It became for a while a place to spot famous rock and pop groups. Alas, it did not take too long before the glamour wore off and it was realised that this was just a way of charging high prices for very ordinary fare and most drivers will stay here only as long as it takes.

Christine went to book in with the lock keepers - woe betide any boater that tries to transit without so doing! The bottom two and the top lock are conventional single locks, albeit with short intervening pounds, but the middle four form a staircase and are all designed for narrow boats (ie max 7 ft beam) Boats cannot pass each other in the staircase and may also have difficulty in the short pounds. Hence the lock keepers operate a strict flow control trying to minimise the waiting times whilst also allowing as many boats through as possible. At busy times long queues can form. Whilst waiting our turn we managed to catch a small patch of blue sky in the background of the former bottom lock cottage.

We had to work through the first lock on our own but as as soon as we set off for the second lock we could see that a volunteer lock keeper was already opening the gates for us. He was able to make life a lot easier for us all the way to the top.

The staircase locks have side ponds to maintain a proper supply of water to each chamber as boats pass through. There are two paddles at each of the intermediate gates that connect the lock with its side pond. The red paddle must be opened first - "red before white and you'll be alright - white before red and you'll soon be dead" or at least in serious trouble with the lock keeper for wasting water and potentially flooding the towpath and lock surround.

At one time the locks were left for boater use when the keepers were not on duty but now they are locked up so boaters must make sure they arrive in good time or they will have qa night in the shadow and sound of the M1.

After completing the seven locks we stopped at the top for a 'full service'. Officially the toilets have now been closed in accordance with the new facilities policy (to avoid funding expensive features that are not really CaRT responsibilities, such as showers, toilets, laundry machines and dog bins) but there has been a delay in changing the door lock as the toilets are still needed for the volunteers!

Immediately after the locks we passed under the M1 which now gradually moves away to the west of the canal.

A couple of bridges later, just far enough for the road noise to diminish - it takes some distance for it to disappear altogether - we moored for lunch and the rest of the day.

5.9 Miles - 7 Locks

Braunston Tunnel

Today's Canals : Oxford, Grand Union Main Line

As soon as we awoke and peeked outside, just before 7am, we could see that our view was largely of a thick mist! Last night we could see the 

iconic landmark of Braunston Church spire straight ahead of us. 

However, by the time three hours later when we eventually set off, the mist had cleared and there was once again a bright blue sky. A little more cloud now which gradually took over the whole sky by early afternoon.

Shortly after leaving we had a better view of the church which sits on the top of a small hill that gives it its priominence for some distance around.

Soon we were at Braunston Junction with the impressive double arched bridge and cast iron sides. On our last trip we turned onto that section of what is part of both the Grand union Main Line and the Oxford Canal.

The A45 road crosses the canal twice in quick succession either side of the junction which is on a long bend. This was the second - its modern concrete slab design scored more on function than the aesthetics of the earlier cast iron bridges!

For a long time this former toll house hailed the entrance into Braunston, a major place for working boats. The building gradually lost any usefulness to CaRT and, we understand, was sold off not long ago. Barely visible in this photo but there were a couple of yellow planning notices on the far right hand end of the building. Of course, without stopping, we could not read what they said!

Gongoozlers Rest (a café boat) has been refreshing visitors to this popular site for as longas we can recall.

The bridge at the main entrance to Braunston Marina marks the point at which the original line of the Oxford Canal took a lengthy contour route towards Napton but which was also eliminated ion the Oxford Canal straightening project.

Nuneaton and Brighton looked resplendent in the sunshine - they belong to the Narrow Boat Trust whose members often take them to canal festivals.

These three equally distressed boats are moored up just after the second entrance to the marina. We recall that the one in the middle, the very short tug boat, used to be on the opposite bank and looked well cared for. Unless something happens quite soon, it will not last much longer.

Another change in recent times was the closure - sadly - of the well stocked chandlery shop immediately before the bottom of the Braunston Locks. It has now gained a new life as an Art Supplies shop.

Waiting below the flight for a couple of boats to finish rising up the bottom lock was the manager of Brinklow Marina, out in his boat for the long weekend. They suggested that we could share with them which made the first two locks very easy.

We spotted this maker's mark in the brickwork around the bottom gate of Lock 2. We may well have reported on this maker before but here is a very comprehensive review of his life's work.

Alas, our lock companions find it impossible to pass the Admiral Nelson pub (alongside Lock 3) without stopping to be reminded of their excellent fare. Since there was plenty of mooring space (not guaranteed as it can get very crowded at times) we had to continue on our own.

We knew there was another boat behind us but they seemed not to be making much progress so, despite waiting a little at the next lock we had to make a move as boats were heading down. However, the second pound below the top was almost half a metre down so we thought it best to avoid unnecessary waste of water and this time let them catch up and share the top two locks.

Our plan was to moor before the tunnel as we have found in the past that there is not a lot of usable mooring between the tunnel and Norton Junction. On several occasions we have had to resort to deploying our gangplank to get from shore to boat! So we were tempted by the sign that designated most of the bollards above the lock flight as a 2 day mooring. It proved to be a good mooring but for the small factor of not having a mobile phone signal! Hence we could not load up this blog entry until a later date. This evening will have to be a music and reading time.

2.5 Miles - 6 Locks

Braunston

Today's Canal - Oxford

This morning began as a brilliantly bright day with completely clear skies. Later in the day, well after we had moored, cloud arrived and we understand that the Bank Holiday weekend may, as often the case, is not going to have especially sunny weather.

Our overnight mooring had been quiet, probably more passing boats than walkers. Shortly after we moored yesterday we were a little concerned as there was a distinct 'agricultural' smell but this disappeared by nightfall and was not apparent this morning. We did not see its source - perhaps a nearby farmer had been  muck spreading - OS and Google do not indicate any nearby sewage treatment works.

Just before we set off, we discovered that the formerly misbehaving 12V circuit breaker had enjoyed its good night's sleep and managed to latch in the on position today. Christine rang the boatyard to say that we would not now need their assistance.

It was under 30 minutes cruise to the Hillmorton flight of three locks, claimed to be the busiest on the system. As a result there are usually some volunteer lockies on duty here and as we arrived one of them beckoned us straight into the left hand lock. This meant we completed the first lock of this cruise almost effortlessly!

We paused before the next lock to empty the elsan. At least that part of the customer services here has been re-provided (albeit in a temporary form) but the main block seems no nearer completion than when we passed here a month ago.

We were on our own for the other two locks - the middle lock had one chamber already empty so it did not take long. We thought that we could see a boat preparing to descend the top lock so we left the middle one open and ready for them. Not much then seemed to happen and we wondered if we had made a mistake but after dropping Mike off at the lock landing, Christine hovered. Eventually the boat came into the lock and started to empty it. It turned out that they were very new to the canals - he had bought the boat at Whilton and, with just a short instruction, set off we think on hos own to meet hos partner just a few minutes cruise from Hillmorton. He was trying to pass on his experience (of 13 locks and 1 tunnel!) as she had never worked a lock before. They were heading to Brinklow Marina so we told them to report that they has encountered nb Alchemy as that was where we had just come from! At least they were being sensible and taming their time to be safe - unlike another boat that arrived just as we were coming out of the lock, determined to break Sebastian Sawe's record!

As we came this way on our recent short trip there was not too much to spot that we had not seen before, but the sunshine and rural scenery made for some good pictures. The lambs were now all gaining some independence from their Mums.

Even the two railways bridges, carrying the electrified West Coast main line, looked splendid. Wonder how many bricks were laid in their construction.

Just before Barby Moorings (an offline mooring with limited facilities) is a series of small plots of land, most with boats moored alongside. Their condition varies but most have been carefully tended. Another blogger had recorded that they spotted a few days ago a scrawled hand written poster advertising land for sale. Today there were 'proper' estate agents signs so we were able to find out a bit more about the sale. Google indicates that the plots for sale comprise about half of those on this particular well established development.

The brochure states that there are 7 plots for sale at £90,000 for a pair, freehold. This at least answered one question we had from out last time here as the plot width is insufficient for a typical modern narrowboat and some appeared to be linked together, one boat sharing two frontages. Water and electricity are available for connection at a charge but no sewage or rubbish disposal. New owners will have to negotiate mooring permits with CaRT as the existing ones are not transferable, it seems. There is no doubt more of a story behind this sale and we wondered how the current occupants feel about it. They obviously have no protected right to their lease beyond its current term and the plots are offered with vacant possession. The brochure is coy about planning status for living aboard. Whilst the plots do give their owner more than just a mooring, it does seem that the price is optimistic in comparison with a typical £3k-£4K per annum for a full service marina mooring. We wait with interest (as 'they' say)

On the land by the entrance to Barby Moorings, we spotted a new class of moorer!

Barby Straight is another result of the straightening project and oncoming boats can be seen long before they are passed. Alas it also was constructed with the sloping slabs rather too common around here which means that there are few casual mooring opportunities along its whole length.

After Dunchurch Pools Marina the towpath is more conventional and some 8 spots are noted on Waterway Routes maps. We knew from past experience that they are generally good moorings but in summer can be quite popular. Occupancy today was variable but all had some space available. We wanted to be as close to Braunston as we could manage, to make a good start on the locks in the morning. It was thus a game of playing chicken: how far should we press on knowing that it the last of the eight was full we were not in a good position!

In the end, a little after Bridge 87, we opted for a good space at the start of the armco for the seventh marked spot. We are less than a quarter of an hour from `Braunston Junction. Mooring is possible between there and the locks - we have managed it in the past - but going in this direction the consequences of not finding a space include having to do all six wide locks and probably a long tunnel before being able to stop for the night. Alas, assurance is more important to us than land (water?) speed records these days!

6.8 Miles - 3 Locks

Hillmorton

Today's Canal : Oxford

We drove up from home yesterday - traffic was much easier than at the start of our last trip and we arrived at the marina just before 1 o'clock. There was even no queue at the A34 - M40 intersection. Most times there is a lengthy queue on the A34 northbound but thankfully not today.

As a result we arrived before having time to eat our lunch rolls in the car. As we knew that unpacking the car and loading onto the boat was going to take a while, we sat down to lunch almost as soon as we arrived. 

Then it was time to unload the car. We took our time but even so there was still a lot to stow away by the time the car was empty. Our plan, as usual, was to do most of our food shopping after arrival rather than attempt to bring it all with us. Some items, like meat from our good local farm shops and cheese from the market stall, generally come in he cool box, along with perishable contents of the home fridge.

We so much stowing to do, Christine despatched Mike into town to do the shopping at Lidl and also recharge the car. As the two places are in different parts of the town, Mike opted to return to the  marina from the supermarket and drop off the food - especially a couple of ice cream items that needed to go into the freezer asap. He then returned to the Gridserver EV Charge Station which happily is next to a Starbucks. he is now well versed in making a medium latte stretch out until the car is fully charged - just under an hour.

New arrangements for parking cars whilst away cruising have been introduced - not sure why but it feels as if there have been some minor turf wars! This time there is also a complication that the main area used for this purpose has to be kept clear for an exhibition of electric boats later in May. Although we received an email about this just before we left home, it did not tell us where to park! As the main office is closed on Wednesdays, we had to wait until this morning before we could settle the car into is hibernation spot. Even so we were away by 10:30.

There was still quite a breeze blowing - not as strong as yesterday - so steering out of our mooring and across the open space of the marina was challenging!

Once we had turned out onto the main canal we were generally sheltered. Only a few short blasts sideways occurred on the few occasions when there was a gap in the hedges.

The next stretch is quite familiar but we still found some points of interest that we had not picked up on before. For example, Jacks Bridge 44 looks substantial enough to carry are reasonable load of traffic but on the ground is merely an accommodation bridge with a muddy unmade track. Old maps help unravel. The road passing the marina is called Cathiron Lane and we use this quite often on the way to and from Rugby. At one point it takes a sharp turn left and passes over a modern bridge over the railway (we assume dating from when the line was electrified) Cathiron Lane at that point turns into a farm track and emerges on the main road as the access to Falls Bridge Wharf where Armada hire boats are based. Only a short distance along the lane now carries traffic from that end.

When we arrived yesterday we discovered that one of the 12V circuit breakers would not latch in the On position. Fortunately it only serves the horn and headlamp. Christine arranged yesterday for us to call out the helpful boatyard at Hillmorton so they can take a look at it. the main use of the headlamp is in tunnels so it was fortunate that today's tunnel, Newbold, is very short and we could see well enough to know that nothing was approaching (it is a two-way tunnel) and light from either end helped us to steer without hitting the walls!

On the edge of Rugby we moored for a short while to visit Tesco (luckily we could slot in at the closest point to the footpath down to the store) to complete our start-of-voyage fill of the larders. Every cranny is now stuffed full!

By the time we returned to the boat it was 1 o'clock so we had lunch before setting off again. Our trip plan is currently based on a laid back scheme, only moving for half a day at a time and with options for a few says off cruising. We hope that by accepting a much less ambitious target compared with the days of even a few years ago, we shall be able to elongate our canal career just a bit more!

In between Rugby and Hillmorton is Clifton upon Dunsmore and we later unravelled the history of a couple of seemingly insignificant former railway bridges.

Just before Clifton New Wharf is an arm, now used for mooring but originally the main line of the canal when first built until the straightening project aimed at reducing travel times for carrying boats.

For the most part this comprised cutting out long loops that were the product of the need to follow contours for the original navvies. As construction technology improved, the ability to create cuttings and embankments allowed shorter routes - hence the opportunity to cut out long loops such as the one now seen at Clifton.

There is little of the original left at the wharf - it is properly called Clifton New Wharf as the original - renamed Clifton Old Wharf - was located about half way along this loop, close to the actual village. Another reason for some poof the loops was the early focus of canal carrying on quite local trips and it was the development of longer distance trade the meant that journey times became more important than than direct service to every small community.

Just before the wharf is the first of the two former railway bridges. This carried the Rugby and Stanford branch of the London and Birmingham Railway Company (later the L&NWR) which linked Rugby and Stamford via Market Harborough. It was quite and early project, opening in 1850. It joined at Rugby Station to what is now the West Coast Main Line.

Once the line was completed around 1878 and traffic increased significantly, causing problems with scheduling train movements at Rugby Station. Also, the original line was only intended to provide services that terminated here, using platforms to one side of the main line. new traffic wanted to proceed further north and so parliamentary permission was sought to build a flyover to take trains directly onto the upline and platform.

This involved a new loop line from close to the Old Wharf and around to approach the main line from the south. This was the purpose of the second now abandoned bridge which we passed just after Clifton New Wharf.

We did not want to tackle the Hillmorton Locks today, not least because the boatyard is mid flight. Mooring spaces immediately below the flight can be a bit scarce so we grabbed a good piece of armco bank about ten minutes before.

5.2 Miles - 0 Locks