Salters Lode

Today's Navigations : River Great Ouse, Middle Level

Today began quite overcast - there had been heavy rain during the night but it had now stopped. Later in the morning some sunny spells arrived and overall it was quite mild, especially compared with the lows of yesterday.

We had been told yesterday that passage from Denver would be at 10:30 so Mike set off in good time - it is best to be early for these transits, just in case. We were away by 8:45, before either of the other two boats at the mooring seemed awake. When we arrived yesterday we wondered why the cruiser had moored leaving as much room ahead of it as it had. Howev ere, when we left we could see a water point and that the cruiser had left sufficient space for another cruiser to take on water. Would have been a bit short for a narrowboat.

Almost immediately we were under Hilgay Bridge.The road across the bridge joins Ten Mile Bank at a t-junction on the right. The red traffic lights shone brightly in the night!

As we approached the bridge from the mooring a small cruiser came upstream from Denver but as soon as it saw us leaving it make a quick turn and slotted straight in to where we had been. If the crews on either of the other boat were not yet awake they might be very surprised to look out and wonder how we had shrank so dramatically overnight! Talk about 'hot bunks' . . . 

We passed under the railway bridge that links Kings Lynn to Ely and stations beyond to London. Much of that route is quite busy so it is usually served by two four-coach sets linked together. As we reported in the blog in July we now know why it is only a single electrified track - so we were not puzzled this time! We saw a train in each direction, the first just across the fields a few minutes earlier and then this one. The timetable much be quite tight at times, even on a Sunday, as we think that the only place they could have passed was at Littleport where the line expands to two tracks.

A number of rowers were out this morning - their club is based at Denver Complex, just beside the main lock. Ones, twos and fours and we had to be careful to ensure that they passed us safely as none were coxed. The two fours had crews that looked as if they were taking to fitness via rowing a little later in life than ideal. We hoped that they enjoyed their outing as they were puffing quite hard! One of the crews had time to bid us a cheerful Good Morning as they passed by.

This widebeam called Tabula Rasa was moored just off the end of one of the closed EA moorings. We thought we knew the meaning - in modern terms, Clean Slate, but when we looked it up later it turns out a bit more complicated than we remembered. The phrase goes back to Greek and Roman times when it initially referred to a wax writing tablet which - like on old time school slate - could be wiped clear after every exercise. We wondered if the colour scheme for the coat was chosen to resemble slate and if the owners would be surprised to learn that originally it would have been brown! Later, the term was adopted by several philosophers and psychiatrists, including Locke and Freud, to describe their belief that humans were born with empty minds and that all knowledge was gained through teaching and experience and nothing was innate.

When we reached the only remaining, shortened, mooring at Jenyns, Denver, we realised that we had made a good call yesterday by stopping where we did as there were no spare spaces we could fit into.

Instead, we went directly to the lock landing - itself barely longer than we are. By now the sun was shining for most of the time as we walked to take a better look at the structure, . . .

. . .  and our boat waiting patiently.

Nothing seemed to be happening as we neared the supposed transit time so we made contact again with the lock keeper. He now felt that a safer time would be just after 11 so a little longer to wait and to be impressed by the upstream side of the sluices. Although the river below the lock is tidal, flow conditions are a combinations of the predictable tides from Kings Lynn and the unpredictable runoff from the Fdens via the Great Ouse and Bedford Rivers. The difference between them is much less easy to predict and decisions about tansits often have to be made on the day. The lock keeper told us that yesterday was the first time since early May that he has run off water into the nearby Relief Channel and then only the tiniest amount (1 cumec). As yesterday's rainfall makes its way down he may have to let down a bit more this afternoon.

Eventually he opened the gates to let us in we still had to left up to the downside level. He had already given us good instructions especially as the flow rate is quite strong. There are two silt banks that are gradually getting larger but the level was high enough to make it possible to pass between them. His recent photo gave us a chance to pick out landmark trees to aim for: about 40 degrees from the lock, across to the main channel but not too far and then straight down. It was, he said, better today to go beyond Salters Lode and turn to enter the lock against the flow.

Once we had left the calm confines of the lock we quickly became aware of the flow and how readily it could take us other than where we wanted to go! as expected we passed a single other narrowboat making the opposite transit. Steering needed some concentration so alas no photos.

We went as instructed just beyond Salters Lode by about a couple of boat lengths and then made a sharp turn, to come upstream. We soon realise that however wide the river might seem, it did not leave much space to choose where to turn - sideways from the bank.The lock is on a bend so the flow started to push us alarmingly close to the bank with a sharp turn into the lock. This was one of the very few times when we appreciated having every one of the 43 horsepower in our Beta Marine. In the end we managed to avoid the upstream posts guarding the entrance to the lock as well as the tyre wall on the other side and it was with some relief that we slid safely into the lock which Karen, the keeper, had already prepared for us. It was also good to see Paul (see here) still giving his wife some assistance in working the lock! (Not that she needed it . . . )

We enquired about where next we could moor and Karen kindly directed us to the far end of the lock landing where we could stay safely until the morning - she is not expecting any other transits from this side today. Also we can refill our water tank after Christine has done at least one load of washing. That should keep us going until we arrive at March where we will be leaving the boat for about ten days whilst we return home for a variety of appointments etc.

3.5 Miles - 2 Locks

Hilgay Bridge

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

The forecast for today was quite confident - it will be wet! Initially, it was still reasonably pleasant but we have to plan in the Denver Crossing in a way that does not lose us unnecessary days.

Christine was washing her hair and so Mike offered to do the shopping trip to Sainsbury to give her hassle-free time to dry off. We did not have a big top-up to do but it ended up with almost a trolley-ful load to haul back.

On the way Mike spotted an example of the recent trend to decorate post boxes with knitted characters. He thought that this one deserved a mention!

 By the time Mike had transferred the goods onto the boat, Christine was ready to leave - she had requested the opportunity to walk up to Mountain Warehouse beside the market square. She had bought a pair of shorter-length trousers on our earlier visit to Ely and would like another similar pair. As they were in their sale,she hoped for a bargain - in any case she still had a discount voucher.

Mobile phone signals in Ely are notoriously poor and down by the river, almost non existent. (That is why yesterday's blog took some time to upload fully) That meant that her attempts to let Mike know she was starting back were fraught with failed calls!

Meanwhile, Mike contacted Denver Complex to check the crossing times for tomorrow - we had printed off a sheet rom the GOBA website. This gave 12:15 but it was fortunate that Mike called as it turned out that there had been some misprint or miscalculation somewhere along the line (probably not GOBA's fault) and it should have said 10:30!

Eventually Christine connected both phones together and told Mike that she was already at the boater service station (water and elsan, we needed both) and that it was free at the moment. We could see that mooring from where we were overnight and there had been quite some competition for its use. So, Mike quickly cast off and headed up to meet her - she stayed put to fend off anyone trying to sneak in. As if!

By the time all was completed, including replacing one of the valves on one of the cassettes which had been damaged at the start of this trip, not sure how but it had a tendency to leak when being transported to the sanitary station. Fortunately we carry at least one spare for the main components likely to fail, but we must remember to replace it asap.

It was just on noon when we were ready to set off properly with some long, straight sections ahead of us. It has to be admitted that this is not the more fascinating part of the River Great Ouse, but pleasant enough.

Except that almost as soon as we departed, the promised rain arrived and it was unusually wet for the next hour or so. At least the river is wider and deeper and we could make good speed, most of the time we were just over 4mph without consuming large extra quantities of fuel.

Perhaps it was no surprise that there were no rowers out today - in better weather and at the weekend we would have expected to have to keep a keen eye on obstacles ahead! Look at those rain clouds rapidly gathering force.

We thought that we might pause at Littleport which has two good EA moorings in order to have a quick lunch break. Temptation was prevented as both were completely occupied - the only ones like that all day.

For the next hour, the rain left us. Although dry, it was chillier than the forecast suggested but the dampness and a stiff breeze did not help.

What to do about mooring? With the new, earlier crossing time we would have like to get to Denver today and be ready, with a slow start to set off. However, two of the three EQ moorings close to Denver have been closed recently (they are still listed on several of our maps including guides supposedly updated for this season) The remaining mooring, closest to Denver and the one we used on the way here, is long but can easily be filled up - remember this is the last August Bank Holiday - that is why the weather is so wet, of course, it is traditional. So, if we pressed right on we might have a problem that might mean a lengthy backtrack of about four miles to Hilgay, the next nearest now.

We had already decided to press on when we passed this good mooring at Brandon turn which was just as well as it might have been a bit unwelcome to ask these two fishers to move! The space was perhaps enough but manoeuvring might well have ruined their lines.

Around 2 the rain returned with a vengeance and the rest of the journey was not nice! In the end we came in at Hilgay - there was only just one space of sufficient size for us but then, we only needed one! We should be able to set off in good time tomorrow (promised to be dry) and, in any event, if we missed the crossing there is always the next day and we do still have a day in hand -  we left open the possibility of an extra day in Ely but in fact we did accomplish most of what we had in mind anyway. (Too wet to take a photo)

The cabin heating was quickly turned on and Mike started to return to normal temperature (he had his lunch on the go a little earlier, in the rain) Wet clothes were dried and we sat out the rest of the day. One bright spell did come by but we were in no mood to attempt a quick dash to Denver today. Some even heavier showers soon arrived so we knew we had done the right thing.

13.2 Miles - 0 Locks

Ely

 Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

We were aiming today, provided that the rain held off long enough, to get to Ely (partly so that we could make a return visit to the same restaurant as on the way up) We set off at 8 with bright blue skies but with a sometimes quite stiff breeze.

For quite a while we cruised with few landmarks except for the mechanics of land drainage - pumping stations, drainage outlets and the occasional larger drain joining the river.

It was just over two hours before we passed under the first road bridge of the day at Twenty Pence.

Just beyond is a small marina - only moorings as far as we can see - and only taking river cruisers, no room for narrowboats like ours!

We were startled by the sound of gunshot which only became more frequent. We couldn't see very much as the flood defences are high along the Old West River but we later discovered that here is Cambridge Gun Club. Clay Target shooting seems to be their main activity but there is also a rifle range and they offer raining in various small arms as well. Business certainly sounded brisk this morning.

There are two boatyards at Streetham, one is called The Lazy Otter just provides moorings but the other, Streetham Ferry Marina, seems to have both a dry dock and engineering facilities.

Shortly passing The Lazy Otter we could see a large industrial unit nearby but it is low lying so only the hint of it is in this photo! Its purpose was not obvious but we later found that it is home to NutraGrow, an organic plant fertiliser. The farm grow material that is fed into a biodigester and after some processing out comes either a liquid feed or fertiliser pellets.

One day we will pass Streetham Old Pumping Station when it is open but as it currently only does so on Sundays and Bank Holidays we missed again (but close with the Bank Holiday bit!)

After nearly four hours of cruising we arrived at Pope's Corner where the main river flow joins from the River Cam. The speed limit now goes up from 4mph to 7mph (one oncoming cruiser was taking full advantage!) We, of course did not quite match that, but nevertheless completed most of the remaining reach to the edge of Ely very much faster than earlier.

The next landmark is the entrance to Soham Lode. At one time it was possible to navigate to the village itself but alas no longer. It certainly looked very weed-clogged.

After passing under a couple of railway bridges and two bypasses (the first edition and the recent replacement) and the popular Riverside Inn, we came to the centre of the city but would we find a mooring? With almost all of the EA visitor moorings all but unoccupied this morning we had hopes of being able to return to the spot we took a few weeks back. The town moorings had space but we could then see that the open area opposite the entrance to Cathedral Marina was all taken so it was the town mooring this time. The down side is that the wall is rather high above our boat gunnel - much more suitable for giant cruisers!

It is sometimes a disappointment to return to a place that you have been to before and with good memories. As we had such a great meal ate the Ely Turkish Restaurant on the way up about a month ago, we chanced our luck by going again this evening. We are pleased to say that we just a good an experience as before and can thoroughly commend them. As well as good food they are an exceptionally friendly group.

11.8 Miles - 0 Locks

Aldreth

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse 

As we expected from the weather forecast yesterday, we awoke to heavy rain. At first it was intermittent but gradually became more persistent. There was a possibility of a dry spell for a few hours from lunch time so we stayed put until it was more certain.

Being very overcast, you can expect that usable photos are hard to come by and those we have have generally been brightened up a bit. This one shows that many of the houses in the village have thatched roofs.

Mike took the opportunity to prepare tonight's meal in case we opted to cruise later than usual.

Just before 1 o'clock, the rain cleared and we made a hasty departure. Mike made himself a filled baguette to have as 'lunch on the go'. The cruiser that moored behind us last night had already departed as they were concerned about finding some where to fill their water tank. It seems that someone (or someones) had used a lot for their showers! The boat here had just arrived and they immediate made a hasty dash across to the pub for lunch.

After about 40 minutes cruising - largely in the dry - we arrived at Brownshill Lock (formerly Staunch) which was set against us. We tied up on the upper lock landing whilst Mike went close the bottom guillotine gate (this lock unusually has one at each end) and then started the fill operation at the top end. These electrified gates only open the gate a crack at first and then have a timer to show when it is thought safe to open fully. This is mainly important when boats are ascending.

Whilst this was happening, Mike walked back to the boat to arrange for Christine to ring the number displayed at the lock to advise the lock keeper at Hermitage Lock that we were on our way. She also volunteered to operate the rest of the gate moves. Just as she set off to the lock, rain returned but Mike was able to pass her a raincoat at the lock before she became too wet! The result - only one photo of the lock was taken.

We were now on the partly tidal section fed by the New Bedford River that runs dead straight (with just one little wiggle) to Denver, bypassing Ely. Part way we could see the remains of a former railway line that must have been quite an impressive sight when first opened as the river is quite wide at this point. It carried the Ely, Sutton and St Ives Branch, a separate company but operated by the Great Eastern Railway. It struggled from the outset to make a profit and ceased to carry passengers in 1931 and closed completely in 1964. Like the ferries we mentioned yesterday, it was the victim of road traffic.

That is the New Bedford immediately above Hermitage. Although it is strictly open for navigation. the sign on the bridge bars Hire Boats from using it. Most likely that is because the exit at Denver is tricky and probably better done after consultation with lock keepers at either end. Those who have done it report that it is, in any case, rather boring!

The layout of  Hermitage Lock, with a large road flat bridge across the centre makes it difficult to have much contact with the keeper - but what did was friendly enough. Today we came through with not a large drop in level.

Shortly after the lock we passed the entrance to Hermitage Marina - as you can see, some patches of blue sky were starting to appear and until we moored later it was a pleasant cruise.

If it were not for the road that runs close by the river we would not have know what to do when faced with this instruction!

We were now travelling much slower. On the previous section, at the same engine revs as yesterday we cruised at 4.5 mph rather than 3.0 - 3.5 earlier. The river did not appear to be running much faster nor the level much higher but there must have been enough of both to make a difference. Between Hermitage and Popes Corner (where we will merge with the River Cam) the river is very much narrower and shallower so that our speed now was typically 2.5 mph. However, this was built-in to our estimated timings and we arrived at the GOBA moorings at Aldreth Drain about ten to fifteen minutes ahead of expectation. We had the whole mooring length to ourselves, just the next boat length from on the way up.

8.0 Miles - 2 Locks

Old Ferry, Holywell

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

The forecast today had a reasonable chance of rain almost at any time in the day. Good for us, bad for water supply, but so far we have not had a drop and most of the time it has been pleasantly sunny with a gentle breeze. A little higher probability for wet weather tomorrow but we shall see!

We were a little slow in getting ready this morning but the arrival in the upper lock landing of two weed cutters ready to go down quickly persuaded us to make a move as soon as an upcoming boat had left the way clear. The lock is one with a side space (don't know a 'proper' name for it) so that they could pop in there allowing us to occupy the other side. They are currently scheduled from the start of June to the end of September to attempt keeping the worst places clear but too often it is a losing battle, including above the lock we featured in an earlier blog with a green 'carpet'.

EA uses two types of boat on this river, one as in the photo, collects large bundles of weed floating on or near the surface whilst the other has a vertical and horizontal devices (like hedge trimmers) that attempt to cut the much longer type of weed well below the surface into smaller bits so they can then also be collected.

Huntingdon Old Bridge has only one arch that is designated for navigation and so steerers have to look our for themselves in case something is approaching from the other direction. The new bridge is immediately behind but here almost totally hidden.

Immediately on the Godmanchester side of the bridge is what was originally Huntingdon Hosiery Mill now repurposed for accommodation. There is still a narrow arm alongside which once led to a corn mill adjoining the former Godmanchester Station. It is now used for private long term moorings.

Hartford Church is one of two that we see today that was built right alongside the river.

And so into Hartford Marina with much relief. We were much in need of fill our diesel and water tanks as well emptying two elsan cassettes and disposing of rubbish. The fuel bill was rather more than we usually face but the tank was down to a quarter full (or, as it felt, empty!)

The marina is quite large with some wide open space (might be a challenge in stronger winds) but almost all of the leisure moorings are to one side. Chatting to the staff and looking at the prices of used boats for sale took us to well over an hour before we returned to the river.

Almost next door is Wyton Moorings. An unfinished two storey building is being constructed on the water front. Reference to its planning application indicates that it is intended for 'destination' attractions such as a restaurant and bar. However, niot much seems to be happening at the  moment so we wondered if they were having to save up for the next progress payment!

This tree has been planted alongside Houghton Lock (where we again managed to recruit two small onlookers to assist.

An information board explains that it is part of a project to improve wildlife habitats by providing food and shelter.

On the approach to Hemingford Grey it is easy to be puzzled by the sight of this church - it has a spire and and most people coming this way will know that Hemingford Grey does not have a spire. However, the river takes several large bends just here and this church is that of the neighbouring village of Hemingford Abbots.

This is the real Hemingford Grey Church, also alongside the river. It once proudly enjoyed a spire but that was decapitated in 1741 by a hurricane and never re-built. 

The building next door was originally the Rectory. Even in 1900 it is described on maps of the day as The Old Rectory! It is hard to imaging today anyone, let alone a clergyperson, being able to afford such a large family and servants to fill something this large. (OK, so it has probably had some extension in its conversion to a later use)

Another medieval stone bridge. St Ives Bridge and like Huntingdon has only one arch that is designated for navigation but it is marked two way. The central chapel provided travellers an opportunity to pray (o to pay someone to do so on their behalf) for a safe journey.

There are signs for 48hr moorings along this wall but from a narrowboat it may not be easy to alight unless right alongside one of the two sets of steps!

Other that in some form or another, this building has stood here for well over a century, our sources so far have not revealed what its original purpose was. ** see below

An elegant modern concrete bridge carries the A1096 around the town as a bypass. Surprisingly it was located in a way that either limits future expansion or, as in Ely, the need to build another bypass to take traffic even further away from the built up area.

St Ives lock is somewhat unusual for this river as it has a guillotine gate at the lower end. Amusingly, no-one has noticed that the wrong set of instructions has been pasted into the control cabinet - those for how to fill a lock with the gate at the other end! Newcomers to this type of lock (it will be the first for some to operate alone if coming up river from Denver Sluice) may well be a tad confused if they actually read the details.

We were now heading to Holywell for a very late lunch and possible overnight stopover. Ideally we would find a space on the parish council mooring beside the village green and outside the Old Ferry Boat pub but with the backup of a not-quite-as-good GOBA mooring nearby. As we turned the corner we could see that the spaces were already taken but as we hesitated, people on the hire narrowboat called to stay that they were leaving shortly. Indeed, one of the group was already pulling up the bow mooring pin. How lucky is that! It also felt that the people on the other boat, a river cruiser, didn't think that we deserved a mooring as several other boats - nowhere to be seen and not passed by us this morning - had also been looking to moor here but were very disappointed. Well, we have all been there and it is just the luck of the navigation draw since there is no 'booking' system to ensure that a space greets you when and where you most desire it. In any case, it would be somewhat impracticable as canal and river cruising is often unpredictable. Indeed, our trip plan had us going another half mile to Pike and Eel but we did spend a lot of time at Hartford Marina! Oh, and to make it even more unsociable, we are not planning a meal or a drink at the pub - it is, after all, a parish mooring available to all boats.

The Old Ferry Boat Inn claims to be the oldest in England with history dating back to 560CE. The ferry, along with others in the area, ceased operation in the 1930s as cars provided most folk with more convenient travel.

Late afternoon Christine took a walk along through the small village to the parish church.

She also found the Holy Well, from which the place takes its name. Although it possibly had its origins in pre-Christian times, it became a pilgrimage destination in the Middle Ages. The water comes from a natural spring, one of several along the stream that runs down to the river and is fed from a gravel bank on which the village stands, just high enough to survive flood waters after heavy rain. In 1845 the Rector at the time, Rev S S Beckwith, had built the tiny structure that marks the site and presumably also protects the quality of the water coming into the well. A well dressing ceremony is held each June.

**Later: 

Thanks to David (Judith's husband see yesterday's blog) we now know that this mill was built in 1846 as Brown and Goodman's Steam Corn Mill. (see) After various uses it was bought by Clive (later Sir) Sinclair and the world's first pocket calculator was made here. In between, Chivers had the labels for the jam and marmalade jars printed here. At some time it was known as Enderby's Mill but now just Old Mill.

10.3 Miles - 4 Locks