Fotheringhay

Today's Navigation : River Nene

When we awoke the sky was very grey with universal overcast clouds.

But by the time we were pushing away from the pontoon and coming out of the marina entrance, signs of blue sky were just beginning to show.

Very soon we arrived at Lower Barnwwell Lock which had been electrified. This was fortunate as there was a notice in the control cabinet asking boaters to leave the guillotine gate closed, normally to be raised. This change was only introduced a few days ago and is intended to help with low water levels in the next reach.

By the time we had left the lock and rejoined the main river stream, the sky as very blue but with some interesting streaked cloud patterns.

The A605 - effectively the Oundle Bypass - crosses the river at a point where it follows the former railway line (yes, that one again!) and although the main span is new and concrete, the approach utilises the old rail viaduct built from bricks.

In the middle of nowhere (plenty of those in these parts!) we passed this floating structure. No doubt it is classed as a houseboat but essentially a shed on a pontoon! Its occupants access by car across the adjoining field.

Ashton Lock, sadly, is still manual but although quite hard work, definitely smoother than the three previous ones. We chatted to a man who arrived at the lock through a hidden gate and fence. It turned out that not only does he and his wife live on a boat on the short arm above the lock, but also they own the surrounding land.

Nearing Cotterstock there was an unusually long straight section - mostly this river twists and turns as it finds (and then changes) its route along the wide flood plain.

We shared Cotterstock Lock (thankfully electrified) with a small but wide cruiser which had turned around just after Ashton Lock. They seemed somewhat inexperienced and we are not sure whether they have ever shared before! Fortunately we fitted comfortably as we are not sure what would happen if we pushed the Emergency Stop button in the event that a boat became stuck or hung up on a cill. Once the Raise button is hit it continues the small emptying lift even if the finger is removed. In the main raising phase, taking the finger off the button causes it to stop immediately. Ideally, if a boat gets stuck the best thing is to close down the emptying asap. we missed a photo of the other boat as they were holding back until we had cleared the very short lock landing below.

Another bird box (or whatever!) but this one has a solar input. We wondered if this powered a remote camera or counted how many residents used it.

Cotterstock Church is a little further on and looks worth a visit but, as almost always, no way off the boat anywhere nearby.

We saw Tansor Church just a few hundred metres later but close up it is entirely hidden by trees. It is also a long way from Cotterstock - by road or by foot!

The small boat also joined us at Perio Lock which is yet another manual lock. Despite prompting from Christine they did not attempt to lend Mike some assistance with the gate opening.

We were surprised to spot a FOTRN mooring called Fir Trees. It is not on any of our lists so perhaps it is quite new. It is barely a boat's length, but otherwise looks useful.

Suddenly, as we rounded yet another bend, Fotheringhay Church popped up on the horizon. 

As well as our destination for tonight, we wanted to top up our water tank after a load of laundry as we were coming along. This proved extremely difficult to get ashore and connect the hosepipe = remarkably unsafe to access for a public agency. It took us five attempts before we worked out a way to take lines to the mooring posts on the bank.

After that we moved to the section the other side of the bridge. This was almost as fraught. A boat had already moored right in the middle - it later transpired that this was the only place where they could get even close to the bank, let along alongside. However they did assist when we made another approach at a different part of the bank Our gangplank proved necessary to get ashore.

This is a popular spot for water sports - especially at the moment SUPs (except that most of those out today could not quite master the standing up bit!) A while after mooring we realised that we had lost the plastic box used to store our hosepipe, presumably taken by the wind. Just as Mike was transferring stuff out of another box, some passing paddlers came close and Mike asked if they could look lout for it as they passed under the bridge. "You mean, like this one," they said, pointing to another paddle board. They had seen it some distance downstream and thought that they would litter pick as it did not enhance the environment. They were happy to re-unite it with its owner,

8.1 Miles - 4 Locks

Oundle Marina

Today's Navigation : River Nene

Today has grally been much fresher, with the sun being moderated by a sprinkling of clouds and a fairly strong breeze. We were away just after 8 - a little later than planned but as we had come down Islip Lock last night, we had a slighter easier run today. We decided yesterday that we would aim to find an overnight mooring in Oundle Marina as otherwise there are no other options that are not too soon or too late.

We were quietly tucked away for the night and had no distractions at all. 

Alongside the mooring is Middle Nene Sailing Club, based on a former quarry that was started and exhausted in the 20C. 

The next lock was at Titchmarsh. We expected this to be still manually operated but at least it is in the cooler part of the day. 

The lock landing is on a slight bend and so we could not see clearly down to the guillotine gate until Mike began his reluctant trudge down to The Wheel.

But just wait! What is this? A brand new, probably this spring, electric operation! Hooray . . .

Below the lock, alongside which is a splendid former mill, is Middle Nene Cruising Club.

Looks like someone is trying to get a cheap mooring!

The King's Arms pub at Wadenhoe has now closed and planning is being sought to convert it to other uses. There has long been a very useful waterpoint here (as with all facilities, they are sparse on the river, to say the least). So there has been concern locally that it may also be lost but at the moment is available. We were leaving filling the water tank until Oundle but wanted to check it out. As can be seen (or not) in the photo is is in danger of being engulfed by untended vegetation.

Just before this we had managed avoid numerous wild swimmers - all women as it happened (may be it is a restricted club) but most did now what they were doing and several used floatation markers. Alongside the aforementioned water point is the village hall and there was quite a gathering there, with more swimmers joining entering the water. No doubt they are all TWATS (see)

In the land of Squires and Spires, yet another standing just back from the river and a small hill should be no surprise but this is Achurch! Yes, that is its name, and that of the tiny village, and dates back to 13C but extensively restored in 19C. In the 2021 census the population was 188, including the nearby Thorpe Waterville.

The road bridge below Lilford Lock is more substantial and almost ornate than most others across the river.

We have found Upper Barnwell lock quite difficult above - it seems likely that the trees on one side and the mill on the other funnel the prevailing wind and make mooring on the lock landing difficult. We had to help a singlehander here in 2018 (see) Even prepared, it was still quite a struggle to get the boat alomgside and tied firmly to a bollard.

With luck on our side, two young chaps were sitting by the lock having an early picnic lunch. They were more than ready to end a hand. Firstly, they opened the top door (opposite where Mike was doing the same) so that Christine had a wider target to aim for once set free. Secondly, as Mike was concerned that Christine might lose control of the boat after untying and before she could get back on  board, he persuaded them to untie and hand the rope with Christine staying on board. In the end these provisions worked a treat and she came into the lock very smoothly.

The turning into Oundle Marina is very sharp from upstream but - perhaps because there was no-one looking - we managed it dead centre. The marina opened just over 60 years ago which must make it one of the early ones. It is laid out very openly and was formed from some disused gravel pits.

We were warmly welcomed and helped to tie up alongside the fuelling station. We were then given a choice of three nearby pontoons and opted for the one that meant that the wind would be blowing us sideways onto it, making it much easer to control.

8.2 Miles - 4 Locks

Thrapston

Today's Navigation : River Nene

The heat wave continues and so does our pattern of early starts. Today we were away about 7:45 with a very short run to Irthlingborough Lock.

At first Mike thought we were to be assisted by a group of volunteers but it turned out that they were more interested in keeping the grass cut short! We were joined in the lock by another boat that had made an even earlier start - perhaps that is why they were a bit vague about where they had come from and where they were going!

A Mike arrived at the control box, a young couple that live nearby asked about how the lock works. As doing is the best way of learning (or so I told them!) I handed the lock key to the lass and set her to work at the vee gates. Both of them were very keen to learn as much as they could and seemed to enjoy the participation. They left ready to start work (IT User Support, from home) They can just be seen to the right of the lock.

The other boat left first but soon after we passed them as they were mooring up for the rest of the day at the FOTRN Stanwick Lake Mooring.

We do not know if this box was built for a specific species of inhabitant but it is visible from some distance away. Could it be owls, other raptors, bats or smaller birds - but the entrance did seem quite wide.

And so to Upper Ringstead. The blog in 2018 indicates that this was a shock to the system - imagine how it impacted us this time!

Yes, here is the dreaded wheel of misfortune! It takes just under 100 full turns to raise of lower the gate. Mike had come prepared with a recommended aid, a handle to fit into one of the holes that once did attach a handle. Alas, despite all the preparation, the bolts in the new handles were just one size too large. The lift mechanism itself seemed to lack lubrication as it groaned every inch of the way.

Between Upper and Lower Ringstead Locks we passed under a bridge of the same Peterborough and Northampton line that has tracked us and will still do - crossing our path several times today. Here, the bridge does not seem to have found a new life but further on it forms part of a long distance path.

Lower Ringstead brought a little respite as it no longer has a Wheel. So, Christine opted to take over operation leaving Mike on the boat. However, it brought its on wrinkle of difficulty - the water level above was some what above that of the lock and we had to use both slackers and brute force to get through.

Mike took the boat down to the lower landing whilst Christine finished up but she needed help from a local lady to persuade the gate out onto the road to open. Conversation followed and it turned out that she farms the nearby land including a specialist fishing lake alongside the lock. They also concentrate on growing a sort of grass that is used by certain power stations.

Above and below the lock is Willy Watt Marina, one of the earlier leisure boating facilities on  the river. It is now partnered with the very new Blackthorn Lake Marina we passed a little earlier. Despite signs offering various facilities, including a cafe and a chandlery, it did not seem easy to gain access. Strong security fencing keeps marina and navigation apart.

This modest bridge and entry is actually the access to a small set of moorings called Woodford Riverside.  We could find scant information about it and another boater reported several years ago that the original owners had retired. The company was dissolved in 2016 but still seems to operate with that name, no longer showing on the bridge but in very small letters at the entrance from the nearest lane. Somehow, boats still moor there.

The parish church at Woodford looks splendid and quite substantial for the size of the village. A FOTRN mooring now exists a couple of fields upstream but no easy access to Sunday church!

Woodford Lock was the second with a wheel but the gate moved much more smoothly. Still a lot of effort. Strangely, the gate had been left half way and also one slacker at the top part open.

That line again - now a footpath from Thrapston.

And so the Denford, our last lock today. The wheel was much easier to turn but the weight of the gate hung even heavier.

A couple with a paddle board has set up camp on the lower lock landing. Fortunately we manage to avoid tipping them into the water with our lines.

We had hopes of finding our next mooring at Islip Bridge, part of Thrapston. It is tucked away just off the main river and very close to the old bridge. It is one of the few places close to food shops. As we turned in we could see space, if a bit cramped by two awkwardly tied up canoes. It is a tricky manoeuvre but as we arrived alongside we could see a very small notice saying that the mooring was closed for important maintenance. Not that much was happening. So it was a long reverse out and a sharp twist under the navigation arch. It would have been helpful to have shown a sign visible from the main stream of the river. As you can imagine, we failed to photograph these antics!

Fortunately there is a small FOTRN mooring just before the next lock where we could pull in. However, there is no obvious way into town. Lucky we are not too desperate! On the other hand, no passing footfall - but a few wild swimmers from the opposite bank.

After a relaxing afternoon, about 5.15 another boat arrived from the lock below, clearly looking to moor at this spot. We could not really make out why but they had turned down the good EA mooring just below the lock and were trying really hard to tie up behind us. They had to rest their stern against ours so not really comfortable.

In any case, Christine had been wondering whether to move down through Islip Lock to make it one less for tomorrow. So we told them that we would make it easier for them and leave the space to them - and their dog.

We might have been less generous if we had thought that the next lock had a dreaded wheel but fortunately (for them) we understood that it was electrified - and it was.

After avoiding all the water users (there were others out of this shot) we continued down to the lock and passed through quite readily although we did have to deal with a log blocking one of the vee doors.

Under a footbridge and then we found the mooring - completely empty! Tying up was simplicity itself - the bollards have risers in case the river floods!

8.2 Miles - 6 Locks

Irthlingborough Mooring

Today's Navigation : River Nene

Overnight the temperature had not dropped as much As the previous few days and so we awoke still feeling rather soaked and a bit drained! Outside it was a little fresher for a while until the sun overcame the coolness of a steady breeze. 

We were away from our overnight mooring before half past seven but only went a couple of hundred metres along to the water and elsan points at the far end of the park.

Although there are plenty of bollards along here, we are sure whether ithe immediate distat is really intended for overnight mooring. Since we were the only boat here it mattered not but we sort of recall that on one of our previous visits we had to make do with being right of the downstream end of this section. The next part is definitely No Mooring at all. The water point is just visible at the far end!

Wellingborough has long been a location for flour milling. The oldest building is just before our mooring and opened in 1886 by the Whitworth Brothers. At that time milling was generally a local business with little market outside the area that horse drawn carts could cover. The mill was named Victoria Mill and stands next to the  junction between the A45 and A509.

In 1905, Frank George joined the firm as an apprentice and rose up the tree until he was running the mill for the Whitworth family. When the Brothers retired in the 1920s they sold the business to Frank, grandfather to the current chairman. The company expanded modestly but big changes came in 1997 when the firm built its second plant. This is the one opposite our mooring (for those with proper hearing, ventilation runs night as well as day! Staff were already arriving when we were ready to leave and we could see a truck already being unloaded.

The commitment to innovation remains at the heart of the business today and in the past three decades has grown from 1% of the UK market to nearly a third with a  number of mills located around the country in the best wheat growing areas. A third mill was added tom the Wellingborough complex in 2012. The company now have a range of different flours (including some specially for making chapattis) some of it driven by the way in which food manufacturing has evolved, particularly interested in longer shelf lives. (see here for much more detail on the company's history)

The first lock of the day was Lower Wellingborough. Like the one before the town, this is a double pointy lock.

However, this one is distinctive in have the mechanism to raise and lower both bottom gate slackers together.

Chester House Estate opened to the public in 2021 after we last visited here. It now has a good landing stage if anyone wishes to visit by boat. Today, the estate is owned by North Northampton Council after it was bought as the basis of a living museum in 2004. It houses ARC, the Archaeology Research Centre taking advantage that the farm had failed (selling of the family silver as it were) and left some important historical sites undeveloped. The farm had especially used the regular winter flooding to grow good quality hay. To enable the site to be open freely to the public, it also runs a number of events and other educational activities. (see)

We passed under the electrified main line - the part that runs through Northampton - and we noted that at some stage it evolved from two to four tracks, with the expansion using a viaduct of different design. This is now the only route our of several through Northampton that once served the area.

The viaduct across the riverside meadow has fourteen arches - too many to get into one picture!

Ditchford Lock is also unusual and has the only radial bottom gate on the river. As it is lifted it rotates and so has a much lower supporting structure than the simple guillotine gates.

Alongside the control box a range of wild flowers was flourishing despite the hot weather.

Poppies always make an attractive picture . . . (unless growing in Flanders Field)

The next section if the river is naturally rather winding but there are some straight sections. The bends can be rather tight at times - something Mike forgot at one point when looking back to take a photo and missed seeing a new overhanging branch that did its best to remove his hat. Luckily a speedy reaction prevented it  falling into the river! 

At least one straight is human made. The OS maps from a century ago show a route that runs closer to Higham Ferrers and once had a significant wharf along it. And then came along the conversion of the A6 into a fast dual carriageway. For perhaps half a mile, the river was made straight to follow the new road.

The current OS map shows a puzzle for  non-local walker: suddenly the marking for the towpath takes a sharp turn to the east and goes around a large loop, returning to the river just before the next lock. At the point of departure there is this high level footbridge (and a similar one seen in the distance over the road) The bridge is known in some lists as Wharf Road Footbridge, a reminder of what once lay in that direction

We were a little delayed at Higham Ferrers Lock as a boat was tied up on the all-too-short upper lock landing with two men looking a but unsure what to do. As we came alongside we heard that they had broken down with the engine seriously overheating. One of them has had the boat for three years but he has not had it out for at least the past two. Their lock operation and boat handling knowledge was somewhat scanty - they then said that they wanted to come down the lock with us as they preferred to moor below the lock. They asked if we knew what might be the cause! We might know a lot about the theory but practicality is another matter . . . As it was not a new boat (LTRU) we asked if they knew what the engine cooing system. Some older engines pump water from the river and back out straight away. (Modern boats use skin tanks) but the older system is prone to problems when the water becomes weedy, especially surface duck weed. The hot weather had stated to encourage it to grow quickly but it turned out that this was not a cause. We then asked about their engine oil level - Mike had checked ours yesterday and we are already on the lookout for a supplier (chandlery is not consistently available along the w hole river) but we are still above the minimum mark. We received somewhat conflicting responses but left them suggesting they contact the marina where they are headed to have the boat blacked.

A short distance later we came across this sign which puzzled us. We could see ahead a former railway bridge, now unused. But we could not see how going under a dodgy bridge slowly would help us if something fell off!

Safely through, there was no sign of any likely damage. But the we realised that there are three bridges close together. Could the sign be about another?

Next came the 1936 'new' A6 concrete bridge opened in 1936. It would be a bit of a disaster if they was falling down - although we did see that it has closed for a week recently for works to it. Trivia: the bridge was opened by Leslie Hore-Belisha, the eponymous Transport     minister responsible for the famous pedestrian crossing.

And then another repeat sign but with a shorter distance. By a few centuries this was by far the oldest of the three bridges. It dates from 13C or 14C and was only bypassed because it was not large enough for modern traffic (even in 1930s) We soon discovered that the issue was nit about bits falling onto boats from wonky bridges, but the difficult turn that boats have to make to pass through the navigation arch. Whilst the sign advised boaters to slow down it gave no explanation about why but the state of the edges of the stonework around the arch suggests that quite a few unwary steerers have found the reason a bit too late! -

Soon we could see the long Irthlington mooring alongside what was once the home of a briefly famous football club: Rushden and Diamonds - completely empty. This was the minimum target for today and although we had only come through 3 locks, and it was only 10:45, we gave in and tied up. The next target after the lock immediately in view was a FOTRN members mooring. These are usually in quiet rural places but have no facilities, not even mooring bollards and the thought of having to hammer in pins in this heat did not appeal and so the mundane won the contest.

5.5 Miles - 3 Locks