Upwell

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

A very grey day from start to finish! In comparison with what we have become accustomed to, it was rather chilly! Before we set off, Christine took a look at the market which is held outside the town hall twice a week. It was a modest affair. Not a lot of interest but she did return with a large pork pie and a piece of newly cooked haslet.

The houses that abut the navigation all seem to have a garden that runs down to a mooring at the bottom. However, an access road runs between the houses and the gardens! There is a great variety in how these spaces are used - being quite steep limits the options. Some are well tended but others seemingly forgotten.

One or two of the gardens are being rediscovered and new work put in to make them usable.

After about half an hour we came to the edge of the town and back into open countryside. As this route was once the River Nene (until it was diverted centuries ago for the betterment of other places!) it is not all completely straight. Even so, there are some long stretches. The most important part of this picture is what you cannot see: surface weed. We had been led to believe that we might encounter problems with edge to edge blanket weed and other invasive species but, as this shows, we had no such problem.

We have noticed that in the eight years since we last visited the Middle Level there has be a marked growth in the amount of wind generation of electricity. Most of the mills are single or small numbers but even when we first came 16 years ago the large Coldham Hall wind farm at Reed Fen was already in operation. We counted 24 turbines.

It took about half an hour to pass by the wind farm. When immediately underneath it is much easier to appreciate the scale of each one. The farm started generating in 2005 and some of the units look as little the worse for wear. We wondered what life span they will have and what happens when deemed to have passed their useful life. We think that this report shows one of the turbines on fire in 2025.

Eventually we reached Marmount Priory Lock where one of the day boats from Fox's was already locking up. On our previous visits here, there was a resident lock keeper, Maureen, well known for presiding over the lock and passing boats! Last time, she was not too well - although still active - and her daughter and grand daughter were doing all the work! 

Sadly her house was badly damaged when a roof tank failed and she moved to live with a daughter but died two years ago. She had not been replaced and the lock is technically boater operation. However, the restored house was sold earlier this year to a couple just retired - Andy is a craft person specialising in traditional canal ware but really enjoys assisting boats through the lock. With his help we were easily on our way once again. He is also doing a lot of work on the garden.

Upwell/Outwell is a long established community that straddles Well Creek, the local name for this part of the Old River Nene. The two places abut each other and there is no clear division point. As a result some people say that this the longest village in England! It is principally a ribbon development with just a short spur along one of the roads through the centre.

Tempted to live here? A three bedroom property is on sale for £290K.

A building that caught our attention last time (mainly because of the large legend OFFICES above the front door) is now undergoing substantial refurbishment.

At one time Upwell had three Methodist Chapels (of varying persuasions) but in 1956 a new building was opened and is now the one still in use. It recently had to have its roof completely replaced.

No two properties are the same along the whole stretch which makes for a mixed and interesting view. This one has apparently undergone several changes in its lifetime, judging by the markings on the end wall.

We suspect that the place must at once time have been especially thriving with some handsome houses as well as a mix of smaller ones.

Upwell did not lack religious activity, especially at the end of the 19C. As well as the three Methodist churches, a large parish church (together with an even larger one in Outwell) it also had a Salvation Hall, eventually part of the Salvation Army.

We arrived at the town moorings and were pleasantly surprised that they were entirely free (apart from a family with small children learning to fish) and we were right beside the parish church.

Later, Christine took a wander to look around the church and was particularly taken by the intricately carved gravestones, another indication of former wealth.

7.3 Miles - 1 Lock

March Town Mooring

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

We did not plan to move very far today because Christine had a Zoom meeting at 1.30 for at least a couple of hours. This meant being very sure that we had a decent mobile signal. 

We left the marina around 9:30, reversing back out of our mooring slot, through the entrance onto the main navigation. It was then about half an hour to the town centre. There are two places where visitor moorings can be found but for a long time they were usually occupied by long term dwellers. Eventually the local Fenland Council started to be stricter about compliance in the 2 days locations.

We passed the first, quite short mooring (good if you really want shade). There was one boat that seemed to be there permanently but at least a couple of boats could have tied up here. The main town mooring is the other side of the road bridge, long enough for four boats if moored sensibly. There were two boats moored but it was clear that they were intending to move on once they had done some shopping. In any event, we were happy with the space at the far end (the first slot is a bit noisy, especially in the evening, as it is adjacent to the Ship Inn.

We were directly opposite the Town Hall.

Our main task for the rest of the morning was also to go shopping - a reasonable Sainsbury store is close at hand. We were disappointed to find that the Morrisons store we used last time here has since closed down.

After a slightly early lunch, Christine settled down to her meeting - reception seemed satisfactory. later she went for a short walk in the town centre but Mike declined - he needed more rest!

Overall, with just a passing glimpse, it did feel that town regrets the passing of a former glory and has not yet worked out how to recover from this and find a brighter future.

We took advantage of being right next to a fish and chip shop to avoid cooking tonight. Quantities were not stinted and we could not finish all the chips!

1.1  Miles - 0 Locks

Fox Marina, March

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

A really good day for cruising: the sun was out almost from the start and was reasonably warm but a strong breeze kept us from baking.

As the photo shows we were squeezed in between the landing and the lock itself. One of the boats that penned through yesterday at the same slot as ourselves arrived here a little after we did but found a gap in the reeds just before the lock - we tried it but did not fit whilst they are quite a bit shorter - and a late arrival single hander coming up the lock moored just beyond the landing. He set off this morning before we were around!

The other boat set Ashline Lock for themselves as they walked their two huge fluffy dogs. This lock is not fast to operate and for those coming up has the added 'bonus' of being leave empty. Hence it was rather later than the time we had planned to leave before we could make a start on resetting the lock for ourselves.

The penstocks (paddles) are unusual;, but a bit like a few on the Leeds and Liverpool. The windlass sits on top of each tower and has to be turned horizontally to wind the mechanism open or closed. These were especially heavy, notably when raising.

As we saw yesterday, water is being pumped to top up the level and the bywash was running freely.

At least for us the departure was easier . . . no gates to close.

The adjacent railway line seems to be quite busy even though the service from Whittlesey station is hourly. There were plenty of through passenger and freight services as well. Very close is a pedestrian level crossing which is self operated with a green light to indicate of there is no approaching train. Nevertheless each one has to make an audible alarm  nearby residents must have to be able to filter out that sound but to us it was somewhat annoying. Of course, despite the frequency, nothing appeared as we were positioned for a photo!

For the rest of the cruise we were in flat, open countryside, traditionally famed for its production of potatoes and what are called 'combineable' crops. Homes are often quite isolated, sometimes with a few trees to offer a little protection from stronger winds.

Angle Corner is the intersection  of  Whittlesey Dyke (the through route we were on) and the Twenty Foot River, known as Bevills Leam for the south western arm from here.

Like this one, many houses are quite isolated.

It seems that many, if not most, of the old small farms have now been merged in to much larger groups. This one, E C Brown and Sons now has seven under its ownership.

We were pleasantly surprised to come across this Rural Mooring provided by the Middle Level Commissioners. It is very basic but in an area where more formal moorings are long travel times apart it might be very welcome. We have made a note in case we are one of those in need on our return trip.

Another junction: Floods Ferry. Eight years ago we did turn here on our way to Bill Fen Marina.

Shortly after the junction we crossed  the Greenwich Meridian. Not that we have noticed were it not for the sign which the local Rotary Club have erected. Perhaps we may find the sun in a more helpful direction on the way back!

Floods Ferry Marina (really just a set of online moorings) looks rather forlorn and with many slots quite empty. The lodges, mobile homes and touring vans seem to be faring rather better.

Just before we reached Fox Marina we passed the posh looking offices of the Middle Level Commissioners together with a splendid mooring. Passing boaters are allowed to pause long enough to use the water point (but nothing else - that is definitely not what MLC do!)

We then turned into the marina - no photos as we were trying hard to avoid mowing down two paddlers in a canoe, intent of creating a collision it seemed!

We tied up alongside the hire boats but had to wait until the office re-opened after its lunch break. Clearly time to have ours! Christine then went to sort out details and found that our overnight stop was where we were but that we had to move along a short distance to be closer to the diesel point. Although we were not especially down on fuel, in these parts with sporadic opportunities to re-fuel, we top up when we can. Still, the tank did take 46 litres.

Then it was back to where we were! The most pressing need was to empty two elsan cassettes that were very full. This is one of the now few marinas that still charge for such disposals. We were pleased then that we had made maximum use of the fixed charge.

We are staying here tonight as we wanted to be better timed to find a mooring in March itself for tomorrow. Christine has a Zoom meeting and needs a good mobile signal. We had been told that sometimes, despite the flat land, reception is not good away from the towns. We also could do with a little more shopping.

9.8 Miles - 1 Lock

Whittlesea

Today's Navigations : River Nene, Middle Level (Kings Dyke)

Althiugh we awoke to a grey sky, we were hopeful of a quick change as better weather was expected between 8  and 9 - which is what happened! We had planned to leave the mooring just after 10 to get to Stanground in good time for the scheduled 11 lock passage. However, we were increasingly nervous about the elsan as we were by now just over half of our maximum capacity (3 cassettes) So, we left a bit earlier, turned and motored back under Frank Perkins Bridge to the EA facilities on Peterborough Embankment.

Althiugh there are three 'boxes' beside the river moorings, none of them offer elsan disposal. When we came last time it was in the former public toilet block nearby - long closed, even 8 years ago - and was being refurbished. We do not know what has gone wrong but the building is unused and even the elsan sluice is boarded up. The waterside facilities include two pumpout units - seemingly free - but the electric has to be turned on at boxes on the toilet block wall. We failed to unlock either of them and, in any case, did not know how much use they would be.

So, all we could do was to unmoor (having left some rubbish on the adjacent litter bins! There is no proper rubbish disposal for boaters in Peterborough) and return back towards the Middle Level.  We could see quite clearly the amount of building work going on just opposite - we recall building work last time we moored here!  No doubt as this all looks residential that is why the new footbridge is needed.

The turning towards Stanground is just after the bridge - sun was in a good direction for a better picture today.

As we turned we had a good view down the long straight.

A railway line passes over just after the turn - so this was taken after we had come through.

There is only a very short landing before the lock, but luckily we were there first (we knew that two others were also booked to go through). The lock keeper - no longer resident - arrived well ahead of schedule and walked down to where we were moored to check our licence and then say that he would be opening the upper doors straight away and we could then enter the lock. This was almost half an hour earlier than we had expected and an hour better than would have been possible if we were the third boat starting at 11!

The road bridge is right river the lock and covers about half of the length. At the stern it felt that we were in prison-like conditions. In any event, it was a smooth descent, especially as all the work was done for us. The upper end is mechanised but the lower end is still manual. We collected the special keys needed for Ashline (we used to have a windlass but do not know where it has hidden itself - perhaps it is at home?) The lock keeper's card machine was broken so we were trusted to pay up when we arrived at Salters Lode, the far end of the Middle Level.

As we drew away from the lock we could see how the operation has changed from our previous visits. The office was in the keeper's house beside the lock. That house seems now to have been sold off with die warning to boaters not to disturb the occupants! Instead there is a tiny shed. The lower lock landing is rather better than the one above.

We now settled down to the different style of navigation from the Nene. Even in the first section, which has a number of bends, much is very straight. Later we will be craving a bend or two! We were pleased to find that the weed growth was noting like as bad as some had told us.

Just after Horsey Junction and Bierrum's Bridge we passed London Tower Cranes Peterborough depot. Here they store a large number of the Meccano-like pieces that are assembled into construction site's cranes, all in the distinctive hammer head style. We assume that the fully assembled ones are for moving the parts around on site and onto and off lorries.

For a long time, the A605 between Peterborough and Whittlesey intersected the railway line at a level crossing. This had long been a major delay as it was closed to traffic for up to 23 minutes every hour during the day. Eventually a new bridge was built and called Ralph Butcher Causeway after a local councillor who started campaigning for an already discussed solution back when he was elected in 1971! After many delays it opened to traffic in July 2022. Alas, cracks and other problems were discovered and it was partially closed for remedial works in 2024! The BBC carried a report in February this year that the road would be fully opened by the end of that month. However, as we could see, the road is still only partially opened and work continues.

The area around this bridge has long been an important brick making location. We could see a number of tall chimneys emitting something from the current factory of Forterra. This gave Mike a fright when he suddenly smelled something that suggested that our boat engine was overheating (if you have ever had your car do that you will know what we mean) But the engine was still running OK and we were [proceeding just as we had been doing for the last hour. Perhaps we could wait until our planned stop in Whittlesey to take a closer look. And then we twigged. We were directly downwind of these chimneys and as soon as we were  no longer underneath whatever they were emitting the smell disappeared. Phew!

There are several large holes in the ground where brick clay has been extracted in the past and which are now full of water. Some of it was being used today to top up the navigation.

The next section is typical of what will become the norm further on.

But for now not all is so straight. Brigatte Bend is a well known challenge for steerers. It comes at the end of a narrow, high walled section at the start of Whittlesey.

The right angle bend in the channel is an obstacle in itself but it is the narrow footbridge almost over the top that is the main restriction. Bystanders in the know enjoy waiting on the bridge to see how much difficulty a boater has. Luckily, taking it slowly, we came around without touching either side.

As we approached the 48hr visitor mooring we could see that there were workers in the water carrying out maintenance work. They claimed that the closure since Monday was announced on the Middle Level website but when we looked a couple of days ago there was no mention and a detailed look this afternoon came up with nothing. But they did suggest that we could moor on the lock landing just ahead. We found that there was a space between the landing and the lock itself that was just our length and we could even use our mooring chains. Once the work is complete it does seem as if it will be a much better facility than we recall, albeit no longer.

Late afternoon, Christine walked up towards the town - taking photos of one of the two ancient parish churches (St Mary's) as well as the Buttercross town centre. The reason why there are two large parish churches almost next to each other is that they date back centuries to when they were each under a different church dignitary. St Mary's owed allegiance to the Abbot of Thorney , whilst St Andrew's belonged to the Bishop of Ely. Churchmanship distinctions seem to have varied over time and today adopt different worship styles although both now belong to a combined benefice.

6.3 Miles - 1 Lock