Great Doddington

Today's Navigation : River Nene

We made a little more progress today than yesterday - not difficult! The weather again was just right for cruising, quite warm at times, plenty of sunshine and limited breezes.

Before leaving we made further trips to rubbish and elsan, just to make sure that we had maximum capacity. We are uncertain about the next few days. We know that we need to do the second part of the car shuffle by Friday at the latest, preferably on Thursday, although we are still not clear what we  can do about the car once we have collected it from Oundle.

We left around 10. The boat in front of us looks like a 'project' boat. There was a largely bare interior, no sign of anyone around and plenty needing to be done if it is to be habitable again. Enforcement of overstaying does not seem to be a priority here. We think that the moorings are courtesy of the local council whilst the water, pumpout and elsan are EA.

Just beyond the Mills and the busy road bridges is this slightly unusual stream inflow. We looked at the old OS maps from around 1900 and discovered that before the new A45 concrete bridge was built, there was little at this point except that a short straightening cut bypassed part of the original river course. This is the downstream end.

The present Upper Wellingborough Lock is located on the new cut. The 1900 map makes no mention of a lock at this point but on the old river there was a significant corn mill and race which presumably provided some degree of water control. Like the Lower Wellingborough Lock, this also has vee doors at both ends. This meant that we came through a bit quicker than when there is a guillotine gate.

As soon as we were back into open countryside we could see this large facility. This is HMP Five Wells. It was built in 2020 in just 45 weeks, comprising nine main blocks. It is operated by G4S and is Cat C, specifically aiming at rehabilitation and uses an extensive range of community interactions and retraining opportunities for prisoners before release. It has space for 1769 male prisoners but the speed at which it was announced, built and opened led to extensive operational difficulties. However, an unannounced inspection in May this year reported, "Five Wells has come some way since its turbulent early period" although there is still plenty to be done to achieve and acceptable regime. Alongside there is a very large solar farm which provides much of the energy to run the prison.

The landscape around the river is largely flat but there are few high embankments so the navigation feels much more part of the overall environment.

Wollaston Lock took us back to the guillotine lock style of lock. The time taken to open or close this gate is noticeably longer than with the vee doors. Partly because the physical drive mechanism is substantial and unsurprisingly slow, but also because the self-operation status has delays built in for safety reasons. Rather a lot of detritus had collected above the lock and Mike had to move some out of the way in order to open one of the upper gates, including a watermelon and a sheep carcass! (At least he did not have to move the latter)

Before the next lock there is the Manor Farm FOTRN mooring. Our plan, however was to go though Doddington Lock and moor at Hardwater Mill mooring. 

We came through Doddington Lock without any real difficulty - but again were conscious that working uphill is much more work than downhill, not least the need to secure the boat to a bollard before starting to fill the chamber. But as it has a powered guillotine we shall not complain!

A short arm runs parallel to the lock section and at the end is a former mill. A mill on this site was first recorded in the Domesday Book! The present building dates from mid 18C and has not milled since 1946. Part of the building now operates as a self catering holiday let (see)

Our blog from 8 years ago describes how we found the mooring to be rather tricky, needing the use of a gangplank. Perhaps we were luckier in this time choosing a better piece of the bank but we were able to come right alongside - our boat pole proved useful in ensuring that we stepped off onto firm ground as the grass was rather long! It is a quiet place to stop - and also has a mobile signal.

3.0 Miles - 3 Locks

Wellingborough

Today's Navigation : River Nene

Today was supposed to be a fairly short 3 lock cruise to the last FOTRN rural mooring before Northampton. However, it turned out to be even shorter!

We were a little slow in getting away - the other boat that shared the mooring overnight left quite early, but they do have a tight schedule to get back to Cambridge where they moor permanently.

After a short but very twisty section we arrived at Lower Wellingborough Lock. Alongside is a rather wide weir - the standard fall is only 0.8m, It also looks somewhat overgrown but presumably does what is asked of it!

This another lock with vee doors at both ends. This also means that we do not have to close up and empty after passage through - there is even a notice to tell us that.

It was only 10:30 when we arrived that Wellingborough Embankment. Three other boats were already tied up here but enough room for us.  We started at the service point which we were keen to find - water and elsan were semi-urgent. Fortunately, unlike Peterborough, these are still in working order but rubbish has to go in general waste bins.

After completing these tasks we pulled back to the start of the moorings as we needed to walk across to Tesco for a good food top-up. By the time we had completed that, returned to the boat and stowed away, it was well after 1.30. 

The main downside with this as an overnight stopover are the mills on the opposite side which have rather noisy air conditioning round the clock. However, we eventually felt that at this end it is not as bad as where we moored on the way down and agreed to put off going further until tomorrow! At least we have a better mobile internet signal than last night,

Apart from just chilling out, we did do some exploration of arrangements for October and the winter. It is still difficult, as CaRT are not yet committing to what will happen with the Northampton Arm in this time. Advice from the marinas, who obviously keep in close contact with CaRT, does seem to say that Cropredy will be a no-go for some time yet - water levels in the three relevant reservoirs are not recovering well - but that everyone expects that there will be at least one more assisted passage of the Northampton Arm. 

Meanwhile we have booked for the winter at Brinklow - they have been exceedingly helpful during these uncertainties, as they were last year - and also for a week at Northampton Marina for the period when we need to go to a meeting in Rugby and then a quick two night dash back home. Hopefully by then there may be more clarity over the Arm. We even made some enquiries about moving our boat by road, as one of the members at Oundle Cruising Club have had to do: it is expensive, but not totally out of the question if we would otherwise end up paying for two marinas!

And people keep saying that life on the water must be so relaxing! If only . . .

1.3 Miles - 1 Lock

Chester House

Today's Navigation : River Nene

Today's plan was for a slightly easier day with a quiet rural mooring for the afternoon. Our somewhat unorthodox mooring angle was no problem overnight. The stern felt further from the bank than it looks. The work barge from yesterday passed us and gave Christine a cheery wave.

What appeared to be a recently fallen willow tree almost blocked our path but as we knew that the work barge had preceded us we were content to try our luck. There was not a lot of spare room.

Before we set off we noticed that the river flow seemed to be a bit faster than we had been used to. Shortly after setting off we passed the exit flow from Stanwick Lakes: it looks from then OS map that an older route for the River Nene flows through Stanwick Lakes and there was a strong outflow this morning. Of course, we do not know whether this is normal or some short term water management is in progress but certainly after passing by we could easily see that the river was back to the more familiar languid condition.

Rock UK Frontier Centre is an extensive outdoor adventure facility. Two workers were high up on an hydraulic platform doing some maintenance to the climbing and abseiling feature. Despite their distance from us they waved to us even before we managed to wave to them!

The first lock was Irthlingborough with an unusually large 2.4m rise and fall. The problem, however, was that the bottom gate leaked quite badly and we eventually had to give in and open both top paddles before we could get it to make a level.

The extensive Irthlingborough Mooring was entirely empty - as it was when we came down. We were surprised that the work barge crew had been so keen to avoid using this mooring for fear of vandalism as the moorings seem to be well protected by a high security fence and locked gate.

A series of warning signs make sure that boaters approach the next bridge with great care. The bridge dates from the 14C and had various widening projects before the nearby 1930's concrete bridge became the route for the busy A6. 

Although the old bridge has 10 arches, only one is available for navigation (the third from the left in the photo) From the downstream side boats have to take a sharp left turn in order to line up with the narrow arch. Today the river was quite benign but in feistier conditions it much be more than care that is needed in order to avoid hitting the stonework.

From upstream it is much easier as the arch is in line with the river and it is after passing underneath that the sharp manoeuvre is needed.

Now here is something different: a lock (Higham Ferrers) with vee (pointing/mitre) doors at both ends. This was perhaps the easiest of today's locks! 

There are a few other double pointed locks on the river but Ditchford is unique with its radial bottom gate. Despite this feature, operation is just the same as with the straight guillotine gates.

A double railway viaduct carries the main electrified line from St Pancras, through Bedford (once known locally as the Bedpan Line!) and northwards to Derby, Sheffield and Leeds. The two viaducts were built at different times (1857 and 1883) and they are at slightly different heights. It is said that the newer crossing (far side in photo) was at a lesser incline, easier for freight trains.

Very shortly after we arrived at our hoped-for overnight mooring, Chester House. We knew that it was only just large enough for two narrowboats and we were a bit concerned when we realised that there was already one moored there. They very kindly made a slight adjustment to their mooring lines so that we had plenty of room to tie up.

Miles - 3 Locks

Stanwick Lake

Today's Navigation : River Nene

Today was scheduled to be a heavy day with at least two 'wheel' operated manual locks, There is nowhere to more between them so they have to be done on the same day. In the end it was somewhat heavier than planned!

When we awoke, a group of cattle were taking advantage of their bathing beach on the opposite bank but later, when we set  off, they had retired to the other side of the field to agree - or not - the weather forecast for the day. Mostly they agreed with the Met Office that it would be clear sky and getting quite hot mid afternoon. The cattle were replaced by a group of swans.

We did not get around to including a picture of Islip Mill Mooring yesterday, so here it is, just as we were leaving,

It was only a short distance to the first lock which thankfully was mechanised. However, we did have to manoeuvre a large floating log out of the way in order to open the top gates properly.

Islip is part of the small town of Thrapston with a splendid old road bridge (others for the narrow arch of modern traffic are now available). The bridge is today aligned awkwardly for river traffic especially upstream where a blind sharp bend immediately precedes the narrow arch,

A rather faded sign on the downstream side of the bridge directs navigators to make a sharp right turn after the bridge for a visitor mooring and access to the town. We tired to get in there on the way down but discovered that the mooring is closed awaiting repairs - no indication of how long that might take. Today, access is also blocked by a fallen treen that is newly arrived. Nothing seems to have  been done to clear it so no doubt it will remain as an excuse for not repairing the mooring!

A part of the former Midland Railway's Kettering and Huntingdon Branch crosses on a splendid multi-arched viaduct. We previously saw this line near Godmanchester where it links up with other routes.

And so to Denford lock, one of today's manual lock. As the photo shows, the bottom gate was down and the top gates wide open, quite contrary to the requirements of the navigation (which serves as an important water management resource) /

We were not sure what to do, especially after encountering a notice on one of the earlier manual locks to leave the guillotine closed. In the end we opted leave the lock as it was when we arrived. Any temptation to go back and open the bottom gate was overwhelmed by the experience of opening once on arrival!!

The same experience was had at the next lock, Woodford, Its guillotine is also manually operated. In case you missed it in an earlier post, it takes about 100 turns up and down. With both of these, they were frustratingly easy in the middle part of the exercise but tardy to get going and definitely tough for the last 20 or so turns.

A picturesque view of Woodford Church through the riverside vegetation.

A fuller picture a little later.

At Lower Ringstead lock we were caught up by a large work boat and pusher tug that was being taken by team of three contractors up to near Northampton to  begin a routine check of the lock structures and to do maintenance such as replenishing the greaser of the lifting mechanisms. One of the team remarked (disapprovingly!) about the fact that we had not left the two manual locks as they should have been. We explained why and they did hint that the 'miscreant' boat had been noted further on so we might find the same experience at the last manual lock, next to come.

We now committed to completing the third and final 'wheel' lock so passed on our earlier plan of stopping at the fairly new Clive's Retreat FOTRN mooring.

The contractors crew had said that we could stay a while on the lower lock landing but (hoping that they might catch us up before we had done all the hard work and they could lend a hand) we opted to crack on and have lunch at the upper landing. Again, the lock had been left incorrectly. But after having been put right earlier we did not think it appropriate to leave the lock 'as found' this time. So we tied to the upper landing whilst we turned the wheel for one last time.

Of course, just as we finished raising the gate the barge appeared under the bridge just before the lock! Furthermore they revealed that they needed to leave their boats on the upper landing as this is regarded as the last 'safe' place for some distance - they seem to have had bad vandalism experience in Irthlingborough in years past. So we had to move on - as we planned to do as soon as lunch was over but now just a bit sooner. Mike had quite a good chat with them about how maintenance work is changing in EA, following the CaRT experience a year or two behind. That is, some of the permanent EA staff feel their noses put out of joint and their long experience undervalued. Some works let out to contract go better than others.

We unmoored and continued to Stanwick Lakes FOTRN Mooring. We have used this spot in the past but we found that most of the bank is in need of dredging and we had to be content with the bow close in and the stern well away from the bank. Quite safe however. Alas, during the evening we were swamped by a huge swarm of midges/thunder flies/whatever. Fortunately they were more intent on attacking the lights inside the boat than eating us.

The news on the winter mooring front improved when Christine had a call from Brinklow - one of the longer serving members of staff who was able to say that, if we could decide in the next week, they expect to be able to accommodate us as several other boats have just left. We now need CaRT to come good on letting us through the Northampton Arm in sufficient time. 

7.0 Miles - 5 Locks

Islip Mill

Today's Navigation : River Nene

It was a bright sunny morning as we awoke. We were ready to leave the Cruising Club mooring not long after nine but then Mike spotted that there was a tap just about in reach of an extended hose. Yesterday's washing load meant that we were down to a quarter on our tank gauge and there have been rumours about the next water point being out of service, possible the next two. So it seemed rather sensible to fill up whilst we could!

It was just after 10 when we eventually cast off - not bad as it was a reasonably fast water supply. The road beside the marina passes over a bridge and immediately beyond is Upper Barnwell Lock.

This lock is right beside Oundle Mill. This 17C former mill was until recently a quality restaurant but it was sold in 2021 (asking price £1.2 million) and is now the showroom for a high-end kitchens.

We thought that today's locks would be straightforward but the first two offered a new twist: the top gates just would not stay closed long enough to allow Mike to get back to the control box and initiate the emptying. 

This lock had an added complication as the upper lock landing was fully occupied by two weed cutting boats.

For some time we could see Pilton Church across the fields. This site gives a much better picture of both church and the manor house alongside - the photographer had the advantage of being on a walk nearby! (The line across the second photo is a power line that stayed in the line of sight for all the time we could see the church)

On the opposite bank is the 100 room  Lilford Hall, built originally in 1495. It has been through many restorations and developments, at one time being owned by a family much involved in the founding of the US. The house is of great interest to visiting Americans! The current owners are dedicated to a major restoration that will ensure its survival for at least the next 200 years (nearly as long as the US has been in existence) Riverside vegetation means that there is no clear view of the building from the water.

The picturesque Lilford Bridge heralds our arrival at the next lock.

The top gates here offered even more of a challenge, so much so that Christine had to come to Mike's aid.

The house alongside the lock has clearly had a lot of work done on it and more is in progress, A builder was working on the structure to the very right of the photo that looks as if it is to be a set of three garages.

The next prominent church is in the village of Achurch. The very tiny village has been occupied since the Iron Age, according to Wikipedia. The unusual and intriguing name for the village is said to derive from Asa's church after a place called Aas-kirk said to mean Church by the Water.

At Wadenhoe Lock we met a single handed boat just coming out (not sure how he will cope at his next lock!) - this was only the third boat to pass us since Peterborough. Just after we had entered the lock and closed the guillotine gate than a small cruiser arrived. Although we tried to persuade them that we could re-open and let them in to share they were uncertain about the space available and simply helped us through. The added bonus was that the lady firmly insisted that she would close up after us so, for once, we got away quickly!

Our trip plan showed us staying the night at the FOTRN Pear Tree Farm mooring but on the way from the last lock we decided that it was such a brilliant day that we would take advantage and press on through one more lock and then moor at Islip Mill, where we stopped on the way down.

Titchmarsh Lock is accompanied now by not only the former mill but also a private marina, home to Middle Nene Cruising Club. Its web site makes it very clear that its facilities are definitely Members Only. (We met one or two members at Oundle Cruising Club)

A notice inside the control box advised navigators to take care when closing the guillotine gate and ensure that it really is down, holding the button extra long even after it appears to have stopped. The explanation is that a new form of actuator at the bottom has been installed and is taking time to settle in. It also looked as if there was a bit of a leak at the top end as well. The only impact, it said, is that passage through the lock might take a little longer.

However, we did not find any real issue and it may have been that top end leak that kept the ponting doors closed whilst we went to empty the lock, so no delay on that account!

We then had an even pleasanter three quarter hour cruise down to Islip Mill where the splendid mooring was entirely empty! As it was now well after two o'clock and lunch beckoned, we tied up as quickly as we could! 

A restful afternoon was slightly tinged by the news that Brinklow Marina is now full and so we will have to find some other place for our winter mooring, but that is still complicated as we do not know when some of  the intervening closures will be lifted. The routes to several of our preferred alternatives (mainly Aquavista) are still blocked by closures as the result of water shortages.

8.7 Miles - 4 Locks