Buckden

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

Yesterday afternoon, just as Christine had arranged, Judith and David arrived at the boat having walked through the recreation park, from the nearest point to leave their car. After a brief chat we all walked back to their car to be whisked away to the other side of Godmanchester where they now live. It was a pleasant walk beside the pool into town. It gave us a chance to see what the other marked moorings are like - we definitely had the best deal! Thanks to the volunteer lock keepers for their excellent advice.

David and Judith have been here for just three years on an excellent but substantial new edge of town estate. Their house is spacious and well laid out with, for modern developments, a generous sized garden.

Hearing that we would be passing by they had invited us for a meal but with our sometimes uncertain itinerant lifestyle and their busy one if had taken a bit of effort for Christine and Judith to home in on a date that we could all make! 

As we have always lived in very different parts of the country we do not meet IRL (or F2F) very often so there was plenty to catch up on, reminisce and general chat putting the world to rights! They very kindly drove us back at the end of the evening and a delightful meal. Alas, forgot about photos!

Today we began by walking back into town the same way as yesterday which was almost directly to the parish church where the main service was at 9.30. The congregation were very welcoming and the service itself was in the central mainstream, of Anglican liturgy and practice. We could have stayed for coffee in the church hall but we were keen to move on for the same reason as previous days - the moorings are limited and we wanted to claim a spot sooner rather than later!

After changing we started the engine (early so the washing machine could go on) before reversing back from the mooring. It was a close call but we were not confident about depth of water on the opposite side for turning around where we were. So we reversed just a couple of boat lengths as we knew from our arrival that there was plenty of room immediately above the lock.

As can be seen from the photos, we had some glorious sunny weatherL when we awoke there was a short very light shower of rain which was not repeated (despite the forecast suggesting it might)

Not long before the only lock for today we passed under the electrified main railway line - here it is four track (it turns into two after Ely)

As our hoped for overnight mooring was a GOBA one, we were keeping a close eye on the occupancy of earlier pones as we passed by.

Just before the lock we passed Brampton Mill, now a popular and quality restaurant but we could not see how busy it was today. It ought to be packed! The water wheel still turns, powered by the same mill stream as when it was a working mill.

The approach to Brampton Lock is not easy to spot, not helped by the route signposted is different from that in our guidebook, In fact that indicated on paper looked choked with weed but when we reached the lock we could see that downstream traffic is signposted that way. Part of the reason for cafre is that the sluice/weir is quite large and can create troublesome eddies when there is a stronger flow.

Alighting at the lock was not straightforward as the one-boat landing was already occupied as a mooring!

As Mike started to empty the lock a Dad and his young son arrived to portage their paddleboards downstream. However, the youngster was keen to help and Mike's attention was then directed to making sure he did all the right things, understood why and what was happening and kept safe. A smaller cruiser arrived as we were entering the lock and was keen to share with us. The young apprentice was quick to learn and dad also joined in by making sure our boat kept wellaway from the cruiser. It did seem that the youngster was well pleased with the experience and we strongly suspect that dad was just a teeny bit envious! As always, showing a newcomer how to work a lock safely does not leave much room for the camera.

We now had a half hour pleasant run, avoiding several groups of paddlers intent on making us a little bit nervous about missing them! 

 

The river here does not change level very much - its huge width helps with that. But it does feel as if it is getting wider the further upstream we get.

One of the few landmarks to help us work out how far we had come was the remaining abutment of  a former railway bridge. The Kettering, Thrapston and Huntingdon Railway which opened in 1866. although it carried four passenger trains a day its main income came from transporting iron ore from several large quarries in the Thrapston area. The line was never really successful and by 1958 it was making substantial losses. All but the quarry traffic from Twywell ceased and that came to an end soon after. We have not found confirmation, but looking at old and new maps it looks as if much of the track bed formed the basis of a major improvement to the dualled  A14.

Shortly after this we arrived at the first of two marked GOBA moorings. We were a little uncertain - as with most GOBA moorings they are very rural and do not usually have anything to tie to: out with the pins. Dense beds of nettles obscured where the bank started so we had to hack away a bit to see where it was safe to leap ashore. At least there was reasonable depth up to the edge. Despite the rather rough and narrow nature of the towpath at this point (Mike when landing had quickly discovered a large but covert pothole!) it was quite popular with groups of Sunday walkers.

We are only a few minutes away from Buckden Marina where we will leave the boat for two or three weeks before we start the long haul back the way we came, hopefully first completing the navigable river to Bedford which we have failed to reach on previous visits!

2.3 Miles - 1 Lock

Godmanchester

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

We set off early, well 8 am, as we wanted to be sure of a mooring in the right place at Godmanchester. We found on past visits that this can be quite busy and there were no easy alternatives to where we planned. Christine had arranged to meet up with one of her bridesmaids from 59 years ago who now lives in Godmanchester along with her new husband David.

But first we had to extricate ourselves from the narrow Waits where we moored overnight. There is a sign suggesting 'limited turning' just beyond but when Mike took a look yesterday he was unconvinced that we came within the category of 'limited'. This meant that we had to reverse out for a couple pf hundred metres onto the main river. Slightly more complicated as two further boats had moored. We managed without hitting anything, not even a gentle glance!

As it was a wonderful, warm Saturday morning a variety of different water users were encountered, including this somewhat lonely traditional row boat. Just before this we had seen several people setting up with very modern racing craft.

Soon we were approaching Hemingford Lock. From a distance we were perplexed as there was no lock landing where our map indicated and the structure looked much lower that elsewhere. Of course - as we came closer we remembered that that is not the lock at all but a substantial bypass weir/sluice.

Our lock was found along a complicated route through the reeds and signs that could only be read when it is really too late!

Like most locks on this part of the river the lock chamber is wider that the gates and allow more than one boat - if of compatible dimensions and steerer skillsets - to share.

Hemingford Church is close to the water and there are several good moorings just a little further on. As it looks should be the case, the tower once proudly featured an elegant steeple but it was blown down in 1742 by a hurricane. It was never replaced.

 

In the same village is a classic thatched cottage - close to a good stretch of proper moorings.

Hemingford Lock was straightforward.

As we approached Hartford Marina - no need to go in for services this time although we have done so several times before - and we spotted a few of the houseboats that  are well known here, outside and inside the marina.  We don't know if the present ones were involved but there was a famous court case sev efal years ago when the EA attempted to charge licences on them for the first time. However the judge decided in favour of the boaters on the basis that, as the boats were fixed in place and had no means of moving, they could not be defined as 'vessels'. Although only two specific boats were named in court it was said that at the time up to 200 could have been affected.

It looks as if there is plenty of room to manoeuvre inside the marina.

Hartford House looks very spectacular from the river, with its very large lawn aligned just to get the perfect view. It is quite substantial and dates from early 18C. However, its position and view on Main Street lelies what lies behind. (see and also Google Street View)

Hartford Church is also right alongside the river.

And so into Huntingdon, one an important administrative centre. But we passed though as we still had another lock to go before hopefully finding a mooring. There was room here on two public moorings, albeit looking in need of a little tlc.

After the historic but vehicle unfriendly bridge comes the bypass. This rather more imposing and elegant than some of the more mundane ones on this river.

Finally to Godmanchester lock where there was a pleasant surprise awaiting us: two volunteer lock keepers who cheerfully took us through without having to stir ourselves at all. They also advised us to stay on the EA mooring right next to the lock - the others somewhat nearer to the town itself are not so good.

Later we watched them bring two slightly nervous narrowboats into the lock together. Easy really but obvious.

This is the view from the mooring down towards the town.

Opposite our mooring we could see the imposing Farm Hall. Althiugh it is now back in private ownership, for a while it played an important role in the Second World War. Built originally in 1746 it was requisitioned by MI6 as a base for final preparations of spies as they were about to be dropped secretly behind enemy lines and undertake SOE operations. Later, a number of German nuclear scientists working on an atomic weapon but who were captured, were held here. The authorities were keen to avoid knowledge of the possibility of an atomic bomb becoming public knowledge and generating public fear. A later owner Dr Echenique found extensive listening devices under the floorboards of the house. (see)

6.2 Miles - 4 Locks

St Ives

Today's Navigations : River Great Ouse, inc Old West River

After writing yesterday's blog several more boats turned up to moor for the night. In the end there were five of us and still a bit of room left.

Just as the sun was setting Mike managed, with the help of a waking pole and some inelegant bottom shuffling, to get to the top of the flood bank, mainly to answer Christine's inquisitiveness about what lay beyond. Like with so many well-wrapped mysteries, this one amounted to very little. 

The land is very flat and fields are large. In the distance one field was still being combined and elsewhere a couple of irrigation pumps were spraying vigorously.

 

We were away in good time today - still not the first to leave! The next section is quite narrow and for a while the duckweed extended from bank to bank, quickly recovering after being pushed apart as we passed through. As expected our progress was not fast.

To be fair, the river to Hermitage is nor full of exciting landmarks, but neither is it boring. As this is still The Fens, formed from reclaimed land, there are numerous pumping stations and drainage lodes. The work was done over a very long time and so each one is different. If you did not know better, you could be excused for thinking that this was a dream, country cottage with a pleasant little brook at the bottom of its garden.

After about an hour we could begin to see Hermitage where the busy road that had hugged the river bank for about the last mile crosses over the top of the lock to join the A1123. But first we passed the entrance to Hermitage Marina. This looks well equipped to deal with some serious engineering on boats.

We had called ahead to the lock keeper, as requested on a sign 0.75n miles away, so he was ready looking out for us. As there was no boat coming the other way we were able to drive straight in. The river ahead is tidal so the amount of rise varies. Along with reduced water flows, this meant that we did not have long to wait for the other end gates to open.

The pontoon above can be used for overnight mooring whenever the lock is closed - at 6 pm in the summer. (Mooring is not permitted at the other end)

There is a complex junction just above the lock, all connected with handling excess water in times of flood. Needless to say, it was not working hard at that today! New Bedford River, which is navigable with care and experience, runs almost entirely straight, coming out alongside Denver Sluice directly into the tidal river we crossed a few days ago. As a result the next section of river up to Brownshill is also tidal. Of course the extent of the tide gradually diminishes and by half way there it was hardly discernible. 

Old Bedford River follows the same course and the aim is to create a flood basin between the two as a holding place whilst flood waters gradually run away safely. However it is no longer navigable from this end and only in special circumstances from the other end.

As we neared Brownshill Lock (formerly Staunch) we could see that something was amiss. Closer we could a cruiser obviously aground and a narrowboat leaving, having been unable to help them. Only just off the natural line out of the lock the river bed is extremely shallow. Indeed one of the two chaps with the boat was able to walk all around with his feet on the bottom and waist well above the water. We were exremely surprised that it is not marked woth warning bouys.

The chap on the landing stage asked if it was possible to try to pull them off backwards - the other boat had tried forwards but made no difference. With some  trepidation we agreed t o give it a go - especially as they were totally out of options as to what else to do!

We managed to get close enough without ourselves going aground to catch their rope with our book hook fully extended, First attempt was not successful, mainly because Mike had not attached the rope properly to our stern (wrong side). Second attempt went very smoothly and in no time the other boat was free and able to come alongside the landing pontoon. During all this we were too preoccupied even to think about photos until they were off into the distance, mightily relieved!

All we had to do now was to lock ourselves through, grateful that it is fully mechanised - and carry on as if nothing much had happened!

We were now back on a non-tidal river, very much like the scenery we left behind at Popes Corner. There is a wide variety of ways in which people make use of the river, especially as it is very clean and clear. This group of three female swimmers were only out to relax. no great physical targets to beat we suspect. They did insist on keeping to mid channel which made it harder for us to ensure that we missed all of them. At least they were all using highly visible marker buoys.

We then came under this bridge with a solitary cyclist crossing. We had forgotten what it was for but a quick glance suggested it followed the route of a now closed railway. The bridge was modern and noy cheap to construct so later we investigated - or to refresh our memories. It is part of the Cambridgeshire Guided Busway - its web site explains  The busway track - the longest in the world - is made up of two concrete beams with kerbs and guide wheels on the bus connect with the kerb and run along it to steer the bus. This route connects Cambridge with St Ives. Well it would if it had not been closed at the moment for significant upgrade works,

And finally today we arrived at the third and final lock just before St Ives. This lock, like several on this part of the river has a wider central part than the actual gates. This means that two boats can use it at the same time. 

It has a mechanised guillotine gate at the bottom and mired gates at the top which are manually operated.

Soon after we reached the old part of St Ives. Although there is supposed to be a Town Mooring, it is not very long and high above the river. One boat was already moored there alongside a set of steps from boat to street level, However, there was no way that we could see of getting off the boat on the remaining section so we pressed on as we knew that there were alternatives ahead.

We were also keen to use a water point as there is no other before arrival into Buckden Marina. Our map did indicate water at the end of a very short arm which we gingerly explored. Indeed there was but the mooring here was quite high not so high as in the town. This stretch of riverside is known as The Waits. We tied up and filled with water, We quickly came to the conclusion that this was perhaps the best we could get for tonight and still get to Godmanchester by lunchtime tomorrow. We have a date for dinner but more of that another time!

It seems that this was once a busy commercial wharf where boats would wait to load or unload but experts say that the origin of the name is 'obscure'. Its present very pleasant aspect is due in part to the creation of the flood wall in the early part of the twentieth century. (Try to get pix later . . . but getting on and off our boat is non trivial exercise)

Early next morning Mike took the opportunity whilst preparing the boat for departure to take a few photos of The Waits. Firstly, the mooring. We were about half way along - the section behind the camera was filled up late in the day, on spaces reserved for disabled people.

The dominant feature of this waterside is the line of flower beds. These have been expertly planted and the blooms are perhaps at their best right now. Each bed had a different arrangement.

But these beds are not just for show - they are actually flood barriers and the access gaps between have flood gates that can be locked across in times of need.

Alongside this area is the Norris Museum and a bandstand. The museum tells the story of Huntingdonshire from history to the present. It is free to visit but we needed to move on early. The bandstand was opened very recently, in 2023 to commemorate the Platinum Jubilee of HM Queen Elizabeth II. A number of events have been planned for this location on Sundays through July and August  - Sunday coming has the Chatteris & Manea Silver Band

Also nearby is the imposing St Ives Methodist Church. Its steps up to the front door may well have been conventional at the time the church was built but it seems that they will also help to keep the congregation's feet dry in a flood!

10.9 Miles - 3 Locks