Back to Fox Marina, March

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

There were a number of matters weighing on our minds at the end of the last week, as we were preparing to return to the boat on Monday. The worst case scenario would have been that we had to return home straight away if the boat was not was not ready to live on! 

The most pressing matter was the Thetford toilet which had played up when Mike came to do the final emptying at the end of the last trip. This was put on a Job Sheet, now of three items, that the marina undertook to fix before we came back. Indeed, we had a phone call very quickly after we returned home to say that all was now OK but that they could not find any fault with the toilet. This left us wondering if they had missed the problem that we encountered. A boat with no toilet is not really usable!

On Saturday afternoon we went shopping - not a lot as we planned to do most on the day after we arrived back at the boat - there are several sizeable supermarkets in March. Driving back home, Christine suddenly posed the question, "Should we try and leave tomorrow?" After much debate  - fall back plans in case of disaster  took a bit of figuring out - we decided to get up fairly promptly on Sunday and leave as soon after 9 as we could manage.

With the car already packed apart from fridge and freezer items, we surprised ourselves by getting on the road by 9:15. For the most part, traffic was light - except at service station stops! We made good progress to Cherwell Valley Services but the EV chargers were all but fully occupied, We found an empty slot only to discover why - it is a non-tethered outlet, meaning that it would be slow. At least we have kept our portable tether in the car 'in case' and plugged it in. We went into the service station for the loos and a Costa coffee.

Once finished we returned to the car and were pleased that it had done at least some top up - unlike the adjacent car which when its driver came back had stopped charging soon after they went for their coffee.

We rest the satnav for Fox Marina and set off once more. Part way we spotted a large retail area, with much intended as a service stop. As we came in we also noted that there were several higher rate chargers available. We opted then to have our lunch rolls and by the time we had eaten as much as we wanted, the car was all but fully charged. As it turned out a little later, this was a 'good move'.

We were within a couple of miles of the narina when we were faced with signs saying Road Closed - Diversion. We found out later that it was only a short length closure for the weekend to enable the construction of a new roundabout. We dutifully followed the diversion signs which gradually became less and less clear - but it was obvious that we could soon be in Kings Lynn! We resorted to a road atlas supported by the satnav. Before long we were at least on a road (through Upwell!) that had March on its direction signs. Alas, we then turned towards our destination only to be faced with another road closure but limited diversion information. Neither of these closures seemed to have been notified to the satnav companies. We did eventually arrive at the boat but at least 45 minutes after we were just minutes away! If we had not done that second charge we would have been biting fingernails by now.

All this excitement (?) meant that we did not feel exceptionally hungry so our evening meal was re-planned to be a much smaller plate! We did manage to get the toilet working but remained concerned that we might not be able to empty it!

This morning we made sure that we were ready as soon as the office was due to open at 9. Gerald was despatched very quickly to 'sort us out'. He demonstrated that the toilet could be used properly but did advise a specific clean to ensure that the cassette could slide in as smoothly as possible. He also explained in much more detail than on the phone what he had done to the gas issues - we worried unnecessarily but it would have been 'nice' to have been given the full picture up front!

Before long we were able to drive to a nearby Lidl for quite an extensive larder fill. With one exception we collected all that was on our list and that we left to a later date so that we could get back to the boat ready to leave before lunch.

But first we had to fill up the fuel tank and then the terrifying task of paying for all the mooring, fuel, work etc etc.

Of course, as soon as we were ready to leave, rain started - it was not in the forecast, so how dare it? Especially as a boater nearby was starting to work on his external paintwork! (Well, his boat's paintwork, actually)

Just a short distance outside the marina is the main office of the Middle Level Commissioners. They have, since we came here last, added a water point and a sign that says Visitor Mooring, but also ambiguously seemed to suggest that you could only stop to go to the office. But then, there was no obvious way into that building from the mooring! Still, we felt safe enough to risk it to have lunch here!

Just after 2 we set off again and aimed to get as far as one of the newish Rural Moorings that have been established to meet commitments made by the Commissioners to spend some of the new licence money on improving facilities for boaters (remember that the Commissioners were set up to maintain the irrigation capability - navigation is a modern extension and widely thought to be a lower priority)

The route from here to the mooring is largely isolated so not too many photo opportunities - but we try!

A group were just getting into their car as we passed but took time to wave vigorously - and welcomingly - as did we.

There are few roads around here so only a couple of bridges and they seemed now to be for access to private property (or so their signs said!)

Many of the properties close to the navigation barely protrude above the level of the banks. As these photos show, the short shower soon gave way to a perfect afternoon - warm but with a fresh breeze. Mostly blue skies.

From time to time, a large block of cloud passed us by but there was never any threat of rain. However, some displayed quite interesting shapes and formations.

We passed Floods Ferry Marina. now predominantly a caravan and lodge facility. As well  as static caravans, there were several touring ones.

With the floating duck weed and the like now quickly dying off at the end of their season, the moorings looked a lot pleasanter than when passed earlier in the summer.

The meridian sign, placed here by March Rotary, seems to be being kept in a good decorative state.

And so to Floods Ferry Junction. Up to now we had been following the Old Route of the River Nene but our way now branches off as Whittlesey Dyke. Many of the drains were originally separate projects but now come together under the Middle Level Commissioners for more efficient operation.

 

However, it was immediately obvious that this section was built differently and now is lined with tall reeds and steeper banks.

Almost all of the hay stores have now gone over to this cuboid shape presumably as it stacks more efficiently than the older style round bales. Most that we have seen are kept out in the open but this farm has packed most of theirs under a newish roof! They clearly harvested more than this barn can hold as there was another open stack close by. 

We arrived at the expected Rural Mooring with the minimum of indication! Not even a name . . . As the photo shows, we could moor easily to the large posts - only room for one narrowboat, possibly two small cruisers - but no real access to the shore. Even if we deployed our gangplank, the climb up the bank is a challenge too far, at least for us and tonight! We will try to take a longer shot of the mooring when we depart tomorrow. But at least it is here, is quiet and meets our needs for tonight! And was empty.

5.5 Miles - 0 Locks

Foxes Marina, March

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

Today was Car Shuffle Day. Yes, we know that this is normally the day before returning home to maximise the time spent in 'real' cruising. These days we are less concerned about 'putting in the miles' than being comfortable and operating within our current capabilities, not those we had back in the Sixties! And then we had a really generous offer from David to come hand give Mike a lift directly from the marina in March to that in Buckden. We did just about have a public transport route worked out but it would have taken up quite bit of the day.

We were only a mile away so it was not necessary to get up before dawn to arrive by the agreed 11:30 agreed pick up time. Instead we set off from the town mooring just after 9 o'clock, but we did not move very far, just under the Town Bridge. The service block here has been rebuilt by the local council since we last came here 8 years ago. In theory it is a lot better - at least it is new! And it is fitted with locks that use the standard Middle Level Commissioners key rather than one just for the single place, as it was before. 

However, the first thing we saw was that the pump out with contactless payment is now out of order and the sign looks like it has been there for a while. Although the facility is supposed to have rubbish disposal there was a single domestic-scale bin with no segregation! We were initially relieved that the key we bought some weeks back at Stanground (but replaced at Salters Lode) fitted the door lock.

We were keen to empty the two full cassettes here as it is just a couple of metres from the boat whilst we discovered at our night's stopover at Foxes that there it is a bit of a walk. When we came to lock up after we had finished we found that although the key fits snugly into the lock, the lock does not turn and the door had been open all the time anyway!

The final part of this segment in the 2026 Cruise was through a residential part of March. The greater portion of the adjacent properties have moorings built at the end of their gardens, but some are not used and some very much in need of a re-build. Even so, the number of boats was quite high but it is clear that the Middle Level Commissioners have yet to work out a cost-effective enforcement process (but none of the other navigation authorities have either) Most of the moored boats are short and appear to be mainly for day trips. Hence it is perhaps to be expected that if a once-enthusiastic family lose interest, they just let their small boat survive as best it can.

Under the A141 Isle of Ely Way (the bypass to the west of the town) and immediately turned into the marina. Although we knew the berth we had provisionally been allocated, it was not at all clear where that was, so Christine first had to get ashone (harder in the context than it sounds) to make enquiries from the office. Mike was pointed in the direction of the East Basin but once inside he had to make a couple of tight turns before reversing onto the correct mooring, almost at the far end. Fortunately there was only a light breeze and it came at just the right time to assist in the final turn. In a typical marina wind it would not been anything like as tidy a manoeuvre!

Mike walked to the marina entrance just as David was driving in so neither of us had to wait nervously wondering if we were in the right place! The roads were busy but not so as to cause significant delay and about half an hour later Mike was reunited with our car.

But he could not immediately return  to the boat as the car battery was down to 50% and we had not located a fast charger in March. So, Mike returned to the SmartCharge point next to Sainsbury , Huntingdon where, by the time he had picked up a sandwich from the store, found another item on the shopping list and asked the three phone shop for an update on the timescale for the network merger with Vodafone (still taking a lot longer than initially announced) and returned to the car it was already around 95%. However he then spotted a notice on the next door charger that he should have bought a parking ticket separately from the electric cost so he rectified that. The notice on the charger he actually used was mangled and the message was not visible. Seems to be a recurring feature in places where such extra charges are levied.

Then he was back on the road and with the help of satnav had no difficulty in making his way back to the marina where Christine had been busy sorting out clothes for the upcoming change from summer to autumn/winter attire.

The afternoon was wet so no photos yet of the marina and our mooring - perhaps tomorrow!

 

1.1 Miles - 0 Locks

March

Today's Navigation : Middle Level

Our aim today was to get as far as March and, hopefully, find an overnight stop on the Town Mooring. We have had a very kind offer to transport Mike from March to Buckden so that he can collect the car. We have also agreed with the marina where we have booked the boat in for about ten days whilst we make another trip back home that we can arrive tomorrow mid morning for the pick up.

Today we have a simple run along the Link Route with just one lock to pass through. When we awoke it was already getting bright outside with the sun low in the sky illuminating the nearby church perhaps more interestingly than the floodlighting they had on last night.

As we were getting ready to leave, Christine persuaded Mike to fill the water tank again - it was still 75% full but she might well want to do some laundry tomorrow during the car shuffle. We had moored last night that the far end, too far from the water point at the near end (in the photo). Mike decided to pull the boat along rather than turn on the engine for such a short distance (why?) Not the fastest tap but it took only a short time to be overflowing.

Upwell is a remarkably long ribbon development with little other than the water-facing buildings spread out for little short of two miles along the Middle Level, here formerly the old route of the Great Ouse (but diverted long before most of these properties developed and as part of the drainage ambitions for the Fens without which the wealth of the area would not have come about) Many of the houses that we could see as we set off are from the 18th and 19th centuries or just into the 20th. A lot are Listed at some grade. Each is very individual and we tried to spot some where we could possibly find a little about its past. Unlike much of the mid 20C development patterns, these properties have huge mansions cheek by jowl with more basic homes for workers and and families. Let's look at a few.

Almost opposite our mooring is White Lion House (next to the village butcher's shop) As the name suggests this was once a pub, built in the 17th C with later adaptations. It must have been converted to a private residence some time ago as it is not described as a PH on the OS map at the start of 20C.

The front of this house has a strange feature for which we have not found an explanation: why is the front door blocked up and where is it now?

Lee House is probably from the turn of the 19/20 centuries and has six bedrooms. It is said to be the most expensive house in its postcode, currently valued at over £800K.

74 Crescent House also has 6 bedrooms and is probably slightly older. It is interesting to wonder what sort of family might have occupied either of these properties  a century ago in very different social situations from today and how they acquired the wealth to buy them. It is a little surprising that both seem still to be single dwellings and not converted or subdivided.

Not far along is this pair of semis, numbers 77 and 78, Bramley Cottages, which are more modest but perhaps for the emerging 'middle class' as they are rather more substantial than simple worker cottages. Today they are each ranked about 10th most valuable in the village! Next door is the more substantial Bramley House. What caught our eye, however, are the two apparently blocked up window openings. The buildings are probably not old enough to have been subject to Window Tax, repealed in 1851. Also, they are much smaller than the other windows so were they just ornamental, perhaps?

These are just a few of the many properties, each with its own history and stories to tell. (No wonder David Olusoga's Houses Through Time are so fascinating) and we haven't included either the big estate house set a little back from Town Street or any of the smallest dwellings- many of which have been replaced by mid 20C (ie boring!) 'upgrades'.

We arrived at Marchmont Priory Lock preparing to operate it ourselves. When we passed here in mid July we had the assistance of the new occupier of the lock cottage who moved in early this year. However we were delighted that he popped out of his painting shed and had the gates open before we arrived. Mike took the opportunity of no other boat waiting to use the lock to check the weed hatch. As it happened, there was not much entangled save for a small amount of fishing line. Christine had a good chat with both the informal lock keeper and his wife - he maintains the traditions of canal Roses and Castles whilst she is an avid gardener (it shows!) No wonder it took over half an hour to transit a lock already set in our favour. We also failed to take any photos until we were well on our way.

Before long we were at Low Corner (where New Popham's Eau connects with the Old River Ouse - a 'failed' attempt at Fenland drainage) and the start of a huge wind farm. It took us around half an hour to pass from Low Corner to Reed Fen End, the extent of the wind farm.

It was then a pleasant, yet isolated, cruise along the level Fen waterway. Eventually we reached the railway line that marks the eastern edge of the town of March.

Most of the houses that abut the waterway have some form of mooring and plenty have boats. Alas a few seem to be abandoned or forgotten but most properties seem to enjoy their outlook. A number are for sale including this one with a couple of  summerhouses and other facilities to enable warm summer evenings to be properly enjoyed. Alas, you cannot buy just these as they go with a modern house on the market for a mere snip at £510K! The estate agent emphasises that "this home is perfect for someone wanting to enjoy the riverside with 75ft (approx.) landing stage plus substantial home with two garages, double carport and wrap around garden! Accommodation comprises lounge plus dining room, refitted kitchen/breakfast room, utility and WC, garden room plus conservatory, four bedrooms with ensuite and family bathroom!"

Around the corner we arrived at the Town Mooring with just one boat already there. They moor elsewhere on the Middle Level and left to return there mid afternoon. We were joined later by another boat but still plenty of space for any more arrivals.

Later in the afternoon Christine went into town to the nearby Sainsbury store for just a few items and  a charity show for a new top to go with the new trousers from Ely. Meanwhile Mike dived into numerous rabbit holes whilst researching the history of Upwell and catching up on progress at the Whitchurch Breach repair site.

7.7 Miles - 1 Lock

Upwell

Today's Navigation : Middle Level - Well Creek

The forecast was a possible inclusion of almost all types of weather (except snow and hail) In reality, it started a bit grey but with a slightly more than stiff breeze but still warm enough to avoid adding much extra clothing! Most of the morning was quite sunny.

We set off around 9.30, no need for a specially early start as our objective was Upwell. On this navigation moorings are well spaced apart and at least we know that the Church Mooring in Upwell is a good one and room for about three boats. 

Christine suggested to Mike that he should take a photo looking directly into the lock, one she describes as the ugliest she has seen!

Mike also wanted to see what was on the Advice to Navigators, a sign on the opposite side from the lock landing. It is also placed very close to the gates so that boaters are unlikely to be able to study it until it is too late! The print is miniscule. Fortunately when we could actually read it, it turns out to be rather limited and mainly about protecting the Middle Level Commissioners from any claim that they did not warn that boaters to cross on their own decision! Plus the usual things about lifejacket and anchor.

It is a quiet and pleasant cruise with a speed limit set unrealistically high at 4 mph. The restricted width and depth, with added reeds and rushes meant that we were lucky to get up to 2.5 mph.

At Nordelph was spotted an estate agents board outside the former windmill pumping station which we noted back in mid July (see) buy it was not then on the market. Particulars of Sale often give clues about the origins of the property. The windmill was built around 1650 to drive one of the many drainage pumping engines that were and still are the fundamental base of keeping the entire Fenland area from drowning. The conversion is over four levels and on a half acre site has umpteen additional buildings. On the market for between £500K and £550K.

Nordelph has what must be one of the grandest looking fronts of any village hall! The main part was built in 1905 as a farmhouse but has now been significantly extended to offer a wide range of facilities for all sorts of events and activities. It was comprehensively renovated in 2023. 

An object lesson in using online searches: Entering nordelph village hall history into Google returned in its AI Overview a description of an entirely different village hall some way distant in Thursford! That description did not match the photo at all.  Fortunately, the village hall's own website had a more credible story.

Nordelph Junction looks on the map as if it should link to Old Pophams Eau (which is navigable) but alas there is a small weir just visible in the photo that blocks access.

It has seemed to us that the haystacks are much larger this year. Certainly in the last few days we have spotted several that were clearly visible from some distance away.  This one uses a different shape of bale from those we have seen before - the ends are slightly rounded. The sign states Do Not Climb - not sure how (or indeed why) anyone would manage to climb as these bales have been stacked with quite smooth surfaces. Of course: litigious societies demand endless signs!

As we crossed Mullicourt Aqueduct we could ahead of us that water was energetically being pumped up from Main Drain at the level below. Of course, as soon as our camera was ready and we were alongside, the rush of water had declined to a dribble!

Not seen so far on this year's travels - a field full of pumpkins ready to pick. Peak demand is, of course, in time for Halloween but that is two months away. Will they last that long? Have they been a victim of early ripening like many other summer crops?

We have tried every time to get a proper photo of Outwell Parish Church. As well as being on a sharp bend under a difficult bridge followed by a narrow channel, large trees block the main view. This shot, much zoomed, manages a bit more than just the East end window that we have been limited to before.

Church Drove Bridge in Outwell has a keystone that indicates that it was bult in 1852.

Now in Upwell, the name on this house amused us: Up-to-date Cottage 1901. Wonder what its initial owners thought was so special about it?

Just a glimpse of a former mill in the small gap between houses on the waterfront. Sander's Mill was built in 1829 by a John Hopkins Sanders, a local miller. After conversion first to auxiliary steam and then to full electric power it continued operation until perhaps the early 1970s. By 1976 it had been converted to a hotel and later a pub but that closed in 2007 and within two years had had become adapted as a private residence. (see and with old pix)

Shortly after this we arrived at our planned destination and relieved to find space - in fact, it was entirely empty, not something we have experienced before.

6.4 Miles - 0 Locks

Salters Lode

Today's Navigations : River Great Ouse, Middle Level

Today began quite overcast - there had been heavy rain during the night but it had now stopped. Later in the morning some sunny spells arrived and overall it was quite mild, especially compared with the lows of yesterday.

We had been told yesterday that passage from Denver would be at 10:30 so Mike set off in good time - it is best to be early for these transits, just in case. We were away by 8:45, before either of the other two boats at the mooring seemed awake. When we arrived yesterday we wondered why the cruiser had moored leaving as much room ahead of it as it had. Howev ere, when we left we could see a water point and that the cruiser had left sufficient space for another cruiser to take on water. Would have been a bit short for a narrowboat.

Almost immediately we were under Hilgay Bridge.The road across the bridge joins Ten Mile Bank at a t-junction on the right. The red traffic lights shone brightly in the night!

As we approached the bridge from the mooring a small cruiser came upstream from Denver but as soon as it saw us leaving it make a quick turn and slotted straight in to where we had been. If the crews on either of the other boat were not yet awake they might be very surprised to look out and wonder how we had shrank so dramatically overnight! Talk about 'hot bunks' . . . 

We passed under the railway bridge that links Kings Lynn to Ely and stations beyond to London. Much of that route is quite busy so it is usually served by two four-coach sets linked together. As we reported in the blog in July we now know why it is only a single electrified track - so we were not puzzled this time! We saw a train in each direction, the first just across the fields a few minutes earlier and then this one. The timetable much be quite tight at times, even on a Sunday, as we think that the only place they could have passed was at Littleport where the line expands to two tracks.

A number of rowers were out this morning - their club is based at Denver Complex, just beside the main lock. Ones, twos and fours and we had to be careful to ensure that they passed us safely as none were coxed. The two fours had crews that looked as if they were taking to fitness via rowing a little later in life than ideal. We hoped that they enjoyed their outing as they were puffing quite hard! One of the crews had time to bid us a cheerful Good Morning as they passed by.

This widebeam called Tabula Rasa was moored just off the end of one of the closed EA moorings. We thought we knew the meaning - in modern terms, Clean Slate, but when we looked it up later it turns out a bit more complicated than we remembered. The phrase goes back to Greek and Roman times when it initially referred to a wax writing tablet which - like on old time school slate - could be wiped clear after every exercise. We wondered if the colour scheme for the coat was chosen to resemble slate and if the owners would be surprised to learn that originally it would have been brown! Later, the term was adopted by several philosophers and psychiatrists, including Locke and Freud, to describe their belief that humans were born with empty minds and that all knowledge was gained through teaching and experience and nothing was innate.

When we reached the only remaining, shortened, mooring at Jenyns, Denver, we realised that we had made a good call yesterday by stopping where we did as there were no spare spaces we could fit into.

Instead, we went directly to the lock landing - itself barely longer than we are. By now the sun was shining for most of the time as we walked to take a better look at the structure, . . .

. . .  and our boat waiting patiently.

Nothing seemed to be happening as we neared the supposed transit time so we made contact again with the lock keeper. He now felt that a safer time would be just after 11 so a little longer to wait and to be impressed by the upstream side of the sluices. Although the river below the lock is tidal, flow conditions are a combinations of the predictable tides from Kings Lynn and the unpredictable runoff from the Fdens via the Great Ouse and Bedford Rivers. The difference between them is much less easy to predict and decisions about tansits often have to be made on the day. The lock keeper told us that yesterday was the first time since early May that he has run off water into the nearby Relief Channel and then only the tiniest amount (1 cumec). As yesterday's rainfall makes its way down he may have to let down a bit more this afternoon.

Eventually he opened the gates to let us in we still had to left up to the downside level. He had already given us good instructions especially as the flow rate is quite strong. There are two silt banks that are gradually getting larger but the level was high enough to make it possible to pass between them. His recent photo gave us a chance to pick out landmark trees to aim for: about 40 degrees from the lock, across to the main channel but not too far and then straight down. It was, he said, better today to go beyond Salters Lode and turn to enter the lock against the flow.

Once we had left the calm confines of the lock we quickly became aware of the flow and how readily it could take us other than where we wanted to go! as expected we passed a single other narrowboat making the opposite transit. Steering needed some concentration so alas no photos.

We went as instructed just beyond Salters Lode by about a couple of boat lengths and then made a sharp turn, to come upstream. We soon realise that however wide the river might seem, it did not leave much space to choose where to turn - sideways from the bank.The lock is on a bend so the flow started to push us alarmingly close to the bank with a sharp turn into the lock. This was one of the very few times when we appreciated having every one of the 43 horsepower in our Beta Marine. In the end we managed to avoid the upstream posts guarding the entrance to the lock as well as the tyre wall on the other side and it was with some relief that we slid safely into the lock which Karen, the keeper, had already prepared for us. It was also good to see Paul (see here) still giving his wife some assistance in working the lock! (Not that she needed it . . . )

We enquired about where next we could moor and Karen kindly directed us to the far end of the lock landing where we could stay safely until the morning - she is not expecting any other transits from this side today. Also we can refill our water tank after Christine has done at least one load of washing. That should keep us going until we arrive at March where we will be leaving the boat for about ten days whilst we return home for a variety of appointments etc.

Late afternoon, Christine took a walk along the embankment below the lock to see when the river looks with the tide well out. In the first picture the guard fence can be see - yes, really, boats have to come into the lock this side of it! The second photo gives a good idea of just how low the level gets at low tide - high tide was around 9 this morning.

This last comment perhaps needs some additional information, otherwise you might be wondering why we had to wait until 11 to transit. There are two main factors. leaving as near to high tide as possible gives boats the best chance of clearing the silt banks and also at slack water the flow rate is lower. As the tide starts to ebb the flow rate increases quite dramatically at times. The other factor is the hight of the water under the entry arch into Salters Lode. There are concrete beams across the entrance gto strengthen the walls and boats have to be able to go under them. Hence the need to wait for sometime after high tide before making the transit. This is one reason why supervising a transit requires a member of staff at both ends - in any case both locks are keeper-operated. Of course, they are from different navigation authorities but know each other well. Boats also have to be released from either side in coordination to ensure that neither is kept waiting for the lock to be ready.

3.5 Miles - 2 Locks