Tuesday 23 October 2018

Saul Junction (via Sharpness Docks)

Today's Canal - Gloucester and Sharpness

The day began with a fair bit of high level, but thin, cloud that kept the temperature quite chilly but gradually through the morning much of it cleared and the latter part of the day was really splendid with plenty of blue sky.



This was the only vessel much larger than ourselves that we passed on the move today - although many of the long term moored boats are substantial.


All of today's bridges required opening - we were most impressed by the efficiency of the way in which the keepers spotted us coming and prepared the bridge, making sure that they allowed people and vehicles that were almost passing over to pass, minimising the disruption. All of the keepers seemed very friendly and generally exchanged a wave and a smile even though they were too far away for even a fleeting conversation.


Many of the bridges once had cottages for the resident keepers who were, no doubt, on call 24 hours a day (how things have changed!) Although they have a splendid facade they do not look as if they provide a lot of living space.


Just after passing Fretherne Bridge we spotted this impressive building, which we believe is Saul Lodge, built as home for the chief engineer. Sadly it looked as if the main section at the west end is  closed up with all the curtains drawn. As far as we can find out, the property has been divided into at least three separate homes.


So,me of the moored boats look most impressive - for scale, compare with the narrowboat just in front.


Another cheery wave.


Two bridges are close together at Purton and they are both operated from one control room so that boats can pass straight through both without having to stop in between.


Just before Sharpness we passed the pillars of the original Severn Rail Bridge built in 1870s with a swing section high over the canal to give sufficient clearance for tall sailing vessels. It had 21 further spans to cross the river. In 1960, two barges collided with then pillars and collapsed a section. A year later a similar accident occurred. As the bridge at that time was no longer a major connection route it was decided to demolish the whole bridge leaving by 1970 nothing visible beyond the two stone pillars beside the canal.


A model illustrates how the swing bridge operated.


Just before we had to turn around we passed this splendid craft - named in Latin for Beautiful Day. certainly appropriate for today. It left before we did but we passed it later on after they had moored.


We turned in the space where the old entrance arm connects - now a marina and mooring - and then moored close to the junction so that we could explore the docks area.


All of the rings on the visitor mooring have individual numbers. Why?


We began by walking alongside the old arm - there was originally a tidal basin below two side-by-side locks (different sizes). Only the part above the old locks (the gates no longer exist but the huge operating mechanisms can still be seen).


The tidal basin is large and leads to the entrance gate. Vessels could only enter or depart close to high tide. The original gate has now been replaced by a fixed dam and the basin water is raised to the level of the canal.


The former harbour master's house is now the base for the local lifeboat and rescue service.


As we looked out to the vast expanse of the Severn as it works kits way to the estuary we could just see in the mist the two modern road bridges.


We continued around the headland, finding a number of further viewpoints,.


Back down to the dock level, we walked past a long row of houses built for dock workers. At the end furthest away from the dock, the houses are substantial and grand.


At the other end they are much more modest.


There is a row of three shops - one of which is still in business (the others are offices) - amazingly they had a copy of today's newspaper for us.


A short section of the once extensive railway tracks that serviced the docks is kept to hold a collection of former freight wagons. For those without the benefit of long memories, the above was known as a Guard's Van.


Alongside the dock is BAR a former lightship that was still in Liverpool Docks when we visited it a few years ago. In between it became the subject of an unpleasant legal case, largely over allegedly unpaid debts that included licence and mooring charges. Eventually CaRT, who are responsible for that dock in Liverpool, obtained a court order to repossess the vessel and they they had it towed down to Sharpness where it has languished since. It does not look as if much has been done with it.


As we walked towards the two swing bridges there was a steady stream of lorries arriving and departing, pausing briefly at the weighbridge.


From the high level bridge we could look down to the ,ow level bridge. At one time both carried rail tracks as well as roads.


In the dock was a small general cargo ship of just over 6000 dwt, called Svetlana (although it has had at least four other names since it was built in 2000) It arrived just after 7 this morning and its cargo was being unloaded in the lorries. We have not been able to find out for sure what the cargo was, but it looked rather like sand which it had brought from Romania

After returning to the boat it was time for lunch before setting off back the way we came. However, we did have time to call at Purton to view the Hulks. As we walked down from the canal to he riverside we could see quite clearly the remains of the barges that had collided with the railway bridge.


The hulks are the remains of numerous redundant small ships and barges that were deliberately beached here in the 1950s to provide protection to the canal from erosion of the banks by the tidal river.


Some of the hulks are of former ferrocement barges which are breaking up but will not rot away as the wooden ones have done.


All of the hulks, including several that can barely be seen in the sand, have been given labels summarising their origins and history.


Whilst Mike and Christine were walking alongside the hulks, Andrew took the boat to the far end so that he could fill up at the water point - he has been here before, if not by boat.

Time now to make best speed - the bridges stop for the day at 4 and we had been warned that 3.45 was likely to be the last arrival time that bridges would be swung.


It was a bright afternoon - creating great backdrops for images like this.


Three of the bridges along the canal still need to be cranked by hand.


We passed the end of the Cambridge arm which leads up to the lesser known village of this name.


As we approached Saul the former Cadbury factory dominates the canal. Beans that arrived at ports in the Bristol Channel were ferried up to here for initial processing, together with milk from the productive farms in the area. The chocolate crumb was then taken by narrowboat to Bourneville.

The three bridges at Saul are all controlled from Fretherne and, luckily for us, the keeper let us pass through all three, even though we were pushing the 4 o'clock deadline!


Just after the main Saul Junction we saw some competition for the water space!


One of the features of this canal is the regular placement of mooring bollards all along the navigation. They seem to be spaced at around 10 m intervals although some three different designs are used. Sadly, for today's boaters. they are placed on the 'wrong' side of the towpath. We assume that this was a result of the fact that originally horse drawn boats were not permitted on the canal.

16.4 Miles - 0 Locks

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