We set off in good time with about an hour to go before we reached Hermitage Lock, The latter part became increasingly clogged with pennywort floating weed. This slowed us somewhat but not as much as the boats with water cooled engines as their intakes become blocked and the engines then overheat, A boater at the lock enquired from Christine how much there was.
We also realised why the river from Popes Corner to here is narrower and slower moving - most of the water coming down at Earith continues down the New Bedford River with only a controlled amount coming through the lock to maintain the level in the navigation.
The lock at Hermitage is manned - it is also spanned by a busy road.
After leaving the lock we immediately saw the junction with the New Bedford River. Going that was is 20 miles in almost entirely a straight line - the only feature for steerers is a minor kink part way along! However, the route is tidal and although technically navigable it does require careful planning and collaboration with the staff at Denver Complex.
The bridge has a sign warning hire boats not to go that way and also a large sign asking boaters to seek information first.
The Old Bedford River runs almost parallel with the newer cut but its entrance is not navigable at this end and at the other end has a simple sluice that requires extensive negotiation with EA, the navigation authority, before it can be passed. The purpose of the two channels is to create in between them a huge area that can act as a reservoir in times of extreme flood.
It is interesting to note that there is a small fall from the tidal level here to the Great Ouse - when the two meet again just below Denver Sluice there is a similar difference. Our route was now tidal until we reached the next lock at Brownshill Staunch.
Our enbtry into the lock was made a bit more complicated because there was a boat waiting on the landing stage below - it turned out to be a hire boat from Ely and they were not at all sure how to work a lock. They were quite happy to let us go ahead so that they could watch. However, this meant that Christine had a somewhat uncomfortable climb up the lock ladder.
Above the lock there is what we take to be a conveyor bridge that is connected with the nearby sand and gravel works.
From Ely upstream there are no sani stations provided by EA and boaters have to make use of facilities at marinas. Our guide indicated that at St Ives, the marina beside the lock does have elsan disposal so, as Mike worked our boat up the lock, Christine went to check.
She found a very pleasant chap in the marina office and, yes, the elsan is available and free - so we opted also to fill with diesel as well - and then topped up the water tank! The only downside was they they only really provide moorings for river cruisers (aka plastic boats to canal folk!) and long, then, steel tubes look very much out of place. Indeed, we only just managed to squeeze onto the service mooring narrowly avoiding two moored boats. They also have a very well stocked chandlery shop.
Leaving was equally nerve racking - we really do not want to make contact with these boats! Juest after emerging back onto the river we had to wait whilst a small rowing boat decided which way to go under the large road bridge!
Ahead of us now was the main town wharf of St Ives where we wanted to stop for a bit of shopping. Until we were quite close it was not obvious where the 48 hr moorings were (even though we did stop here 8 years ago)
The famous old bridge is now pedestrianised - and no doubt will last much longer as a result.
After lunch tied up to the wall we walked the short distance to the main street where some market stalls were in operation but mostly non-food. To stock our larder we ended up at Waitrose at the far end of the street.
In the market place there is a famous statue of Oliver Cromwell. Alas, the direction of the sun meant that we could not get the best of photos and completely missed a shot of the famous Free Church nearby with its very tall and elegant spire.
Cromwell came from nearby Huntingdon and only moved to St Ives for five years before taking on a national significance, leading up to the Civil War. in 1899 there was a move to erect a statue in his home town to commemorate the 300th anniversary of his birth. But at that time Huntingdon was still a Royalist and Church of England town whilst St Ives had taken a much stronger nonconformist stance.
Back at the boat we set off immediately - the town had been very hot indeed with no cooling breeze. We had felt the breeze earlier so we knew that it was to be found if only in the right place.
We came up through Hemingford Lock which, like St Ives, has a wider chamber than the entrance gates. However, this one had the guillotine at the upper end.
The church beside the river is a much admired and photographed building - so why not have our own? We were interested to see a banner on the wall outside which advertised a Waterman's Service in a couple of week's time.
After the next lock there are no moorings until the centre of Huntingdon so we happily pulled to those below Houghton Lock. Unlike most of the other EA moorings that we have seen along this river, this one is fairly basic. However, it fulfilled our requirement of having a good breeze and it was a pleasant, quite and secluded spot.
13.6 Miles - 4 Locks
We came up the 100ft (New Bedford) when we did our trip to the Fens a few years ago. It isn't the most interesting of waterways it does have to be said but we didn't find the navigation difficult at all, other then almost out running the tide and having to slow down a little on the last stretch.
ReplyDeleteI think the warning is more that hire boats are not normally insured for tidal waters. Also, the exit at Denver has the dreaded silting which changes regularly despite efforts to keep the channels clear.
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