Llangollen

Today's Canal : Llangollen

We did not want to arrive into Llangollen too late as we were uncertain about the extent of available moorings for the next few nights. As a result we were away promptly at 9 am. Early mist had quickly cleared way and we left with bright sunny skies.

We left behind a precisely measured  Alchemy sized slot - and a good number of longer stayers.

The canal soon took on a new character for the remainder of the route into Llangollen - increasingly narrower! At this stage it was still two-way but often the bends meant that we had to back off and draw to one side, especially with less experienced steerers.

Just before Chirk Bank, the canal runs at almost roof level with the houses on the adjoining road.

The quirky garden design at Monks Bridge (always good for a photo!) looks as if it has had a bit of a makeover and now indicates that any donations go to a charity. Alas, getting through the bridge makes finding and coins an impossibility.

Soon we could see the impressive view of Chirk Railway Viaduct that runs close to the aqueduct which we then also crossed. Fortunately we were close behind another boat that was part way across so we did not have to worry about a fight for position with oncoming boats! As we neared the end a couple came throiugh the tunnel so did niot have a long wait. However, the flow on the canal as well as the narrowness means that our speed would make a snail look electrifying!

We were able to go directly into the tunnel but again we were amazed at how long it took us - 15 minutes for just over 400 m!

 

The next stretch is an impressively wooded cutting that totally hides the large industrials works to the north.

This wall, nowadays barely visible, seems to be a hint of something significant in the past. Later, looking at old maps from before the industrial site developed, there were a number of busy collieries and quarries around Trevor. A network of tramways existed before the start of the 20C and it looks as if this wall was at Bottom Wharf with one line running very close to the canal.

Whitehouse Tunnel is shorter but we had a bit of a wait for a boat to emerge as it was already in when we arrived.

Nearing Froncysyllte there are long lines of moored boats, long term on the village side, which reduce the width to single traffic. A steam of on-coming boats was very determined not to allow a gap to develop between them that might allow us to slip in! It was even more aggressive at Fron lift bridge just ahead! A boat going our way had opened the bridge and was just passing through as we arrived but a convoy that had recently crossed over the aqueduct insisted on preventing us from following. The last almost closed the bridge on us until we tooted to draw its attention to our presence.

Christine steered across Pontcysyllte - it took just over 10 minutes but felt a lot longer. Towards the end quite a breeze developed. If you want spectacular high level views, this is the place to come. 

Three boats were waiting to cross but before the last could set off, another boat raced through the narrow bridge that marks the start of the final four miles into Llangollen. It nearly collided with one of the other boats and Christine had to take evasive action as well. As we started through the bridge several canoes came though without warning, seeming to think that they were invincible!

The last section was less busy although every boat passing took care and attention. The canal is narrow and the lie of the land very steep. A couple of bridges illustrate the difference from one side of the canal to the other. 

There are two sections that are clearly signed as single boat width and boats are encouraged to send a crew member ahead to avoid confrontations. The first has a single passing place - Christine warned Mike of an oncoming boat so he was able to hover in the extra space to let it pass safely. She also had to ask a boat to wait at the other end of the second narrows - no passing place at all - it seemed a bit miffed/mystified but it ought to have known what to do as they must have come this way earlier!

We continued on and eventually arrived at Llangollen Wharf where, in the tea room and trip boat office Christine bought two days worth of mooring but also learned that we could top this up to a five day maximum if we wanted it later on. The permit covers both the towpath moorings which we had just passed and were largely unoccupied as well as the pontoons in the basin a little further one - this marks the end of the generally navigable water.

We opted for the latter - the towpath seemed a bit busy - the basin was perhaps just over half full. We soon tied up and had a rather late lunch.

Late afternoon we wandered down to the town, mainly to check out various options for things to do. The heritage railway station was just closing with the arrival of its last train of the day.

We could also see a white water raft tackling the falls on the Dee as it reached the town bridge - look very carefully and you might spot it in the centre! As far as we could tell, it successfully negotiated its way without losing any of the passengers!

Across the bridge and into the town, Christine found Mike a couple of long sleeved shirts - we packed  assuming that this trip would be generally warm! - as well as an inflatable cushion she had been seeking for herself, for several purposes, mostly to do with more comfortable sitting or sleeping.

9.3 Miles - 0 Locks