Beale Park

 Today's Navigation - River Thames

We awoke to  a very grey day and by the time we set off there was mizzle in the air. Although it rarely rained properly coats and rain hats were on and off at regular intervals. However, by mid afternoon we had some good sunny spells for a few hours.

The main unknown about today was Henley Royal regatta which is on until the weekend. How would we fare getting through all racing and onlookers? However, we had researched the arrangements and had a fairly good idea of where we would be corralled.

As we set off on the short distance to the first lock we were overlooked (well, almost) by a Virgin hot air balloon. Although it seemed to us to look large it did not come close enough to take a photo that gives a similar impression.

Beside the lock is the base for Peter Freebody, a well-known maker of new river launches. Unfortunately for the photographer, all of those in 0hteir basin are covered in tarpaulin but those we have seen out on the river seem rather splendid - although perhaps not quite in the same league as those restored by Dennetts

The view of Medmenham Abbey includes two very different buildings. The Cistercian Abbey dates back to the 12th century but later renovations made it look much more Gothic. In the 18th century it became infamous as the base of the Hellfire Club, a secret society with a reputation for strange, even obscene, rituals.

Culham Court stands on a small hill overlooking the river. Its location gives a really impressive look to the lawn that stretches immaculately down to the water. Built in the 1770s, it was owned at one time by Viscount Hambledon, grandson of the second W H Smith. Some interesting pictures can be found on this website. It was sold in 2006 for £35 million to billionaire Urs Schwarzenbach.

Eventually we arrived at the start of the Henley regatta course. The route for through traffic was well marked, beginning with this outpost. the two marshals in the boat looked as if they felt that they had drawn thew short straw.

The first part was a practice area and several crews were out. Even here and to an untrained eye, these teams looked especially well trained and definitely a cut above others we have seen out on the river.

Smart launches ferried the officials to their positions on the course.

The hospitality staff on Temple Island were busy setting out for smart meals later but did look a little lonely without any customers.

At quarter mile intervals were these tiny booths - no way out if caught short! The task of the official imprisoned here was to raise a marker when the boat in either lane in a race passed it by. 

Only one race took place as we passed through the regatta course.

There is a strange combination of tradition with modern technology. As well as drone flying over the course this crane seems to have a camera whose operator must have something to do only for a few seconds every race.

It was now 11 o'clock but most of the hospitality tents seemed rather empty. Hopefully they will do better business this afternoon.

This seems to be the finish line where each race is won or lost.

Just after the end of the course comes Henley Bridge with its five arches. Each is marked for a different purpose. We went through the one marked upstream powered craft. You can no doubt guess what three of the others are designated but the centre arch is special. To use it the skippers has to call on vhf radio to Angel Guard for permission. That is the small boat hovering near the arch.

Just after we passed through a large trip boat arrived and was escorted through the centre.

The rest of our journey was a succession of quite long reaches between the locks. Rather more traffic was expected than around this morning as the locks nearest to the regatta had more volunteers on duty than they knew what to do with.

Some of the locks are still very well tended with brightly planted flower beds. At one time the lock keepers lived-in the cottages alongside and spent their time between boats keeping everything spick and span. Today the houses have been sold off or used cor other purposes.

Fitting a mixture of boats into each lock cycle is an art form in itself and some lock keepers are better at it than others. During past regattas long queues have built up, even some distance away from the action. Today we only had one rather long wait of about 45 minutes, missing out on two lock cycles. When we were finally admitted the lock keeper then showed crossed arms to the boat behind us. They made it clear later that they were not pleased as they were sure he could have fitted them in. He was not at all fazed!

As we passed through Reading, the inauspicious start to the Kennett and Avon canal came into view. Alas our plan to go some way down that route had been frustrated by a badly damaged lock which will take some time to repair.

We were now beginning to think about a mooring for the night and hoped for one of the moorings listed just above Mapledurham Lock. Alas, too many other boats had ended their day early! Eventually we had to accept that we would ave to go through Whitchurch Lock and look for something at Beale Park. A boat coming down as we left the lock gave us reassurance that almost all of the moorings there were empty!

Indeed, spot almost at the start of the locations given in Waterway Routes was able to host us for the night. We nearly passed it by but Mike backed up hard and eventually brought the boat around to give it  a try (it was an unmarked spot) Thankfully, although we had to battle with nettles at both ends, there was ample depth for us to come right to the bank.

23.0 Miles - 8 Locks