A really warm day even if blue sky was a bit intermittent. In any case, much of the time we were in between buildings that towered over us with limited views and light!
Christine had been told last night that M&S Food Hall opened at 6 am so she persuaded Mike to walk three minutes to the entrance and then down to the lower level in the main building, to pick up the weekend paper. However, when he arrived at the front door and checked the route with an INTU person, she said quite definitely that it was not open until 10 am. So he returned to the boat empty handed. A later check online revealed that weekdays that us true and on Sunday it is midday, but on Saturday it had already opened at 9!
We cast off from our overnight mooring, with a view straight down to the shopping centre. There is plenty of building work being done, some related to the extension to the Metrolink tram system but internally as well - seemingly converting the open areas (often with entertainment or rides for young children) into further retails spaces. The main fabric does look as if it could do with updating before ti becomes too tatty. (The original style was Trumpesque-kitsch!)
It was a straight run down to Stretford Waters Meeting junction where we turned left in the direction of central Manchester.
Very soon we were in the shadow of (for football fans) the hallowed ground of Man Utd. The stands tower overhead - we have never been this way on match day - it much be some sound!
For several times when we looked back at this building it had a large advertising or decorative sheet stretched and tied gto the face of the end wall. This time it has a rather smarter display. We wondered if it was a dynamic computer controlled screen (like those beside the motorway in Birmingham) but the image did not change as we passed and on Google Street, it shows the same from 2018 onwards.
As we approached Pomona Tram Station (where the line turn sharply to go over the ship canal and on to Salford Media City) we could see some new works taking place (give away, apart from the un-weather-worn concrete, was people working where the trams should be and no overhead power cables!) Then we realised that this is where the new extension to Trafford Park fits in.
Later, looking at the route map of the extension it became clear what the new bridge works, just after we set off this morning, are for!
We then passed Pomona Lock, once an important link between the ship canal and the main canal network. Today it looks a little forlorn and overlooked - only the intrepid leisure boaters wanting to complete their tick list and navigate down the shop canal to Ellesmere Port or the River Weaver now use it. It takes a bit of planning and obtaining permits so not something to do on the spur of the moment.
We arrived into Castlefield on schedule at 11 o'clock. We took a brief look to see if we could moor here but soon decided that we would press on up the Rochdale Nine. This flight of nine locks was for a time the only bit that was open after the main canal closed in 1952, an it was allowd to become almost unusable when the Ashton closed for over a decade. Some of these locks have beeen built over and tall buildings enclose the line from Castlefield to Ducie Street. The first few locks, although hard work, were a gentle prelude to what was to come! Christine spent time chatting to some people taking a close interest - they were on a hire boat moored just below and they have yet to pass through a lock. Hope that their long term view is not too coloured if they opt to ascend these locks as their initial experience.
We then started on the subterranean locks. We were following two boats that were just ahead of us - they were exiting the first lock when we arrived - and were pleased that on our own we were keeping pace with them.
The next length of canal was strangely deserted - usually plenty of people walk along it.
However, we then found a closure notice - no reason given but it seems likely that the scaffolding for building works over the canal may have proved to be too much of a temptation . . .
The next lock was open to passers-by and Mike was able to recruit two young boys with their granddad to assist. They were really keen, but had gone by the time this photo was taken.
At the next bridge a new willow sculpture of a horse stands on an isolated corner. It is good for the canal but not sure how good for the horse.
At this lock, Christine found coming in through the bottom gates was a rather tricky as we were now experiencing a very strong bywash. We have not seen this before and some people even think that the flight does not have any as the norm is for a lot of water to cascade over the gates. An explanation was not long in coming.
Alas, our good progress did not last when we could see the two boats ahead waiting a long time below Lock 87. It turned out that a further boat ahead of them could not progress as the next pound was empty and the lock above is not accessible from the towpath (there are a couple of pounds where this is the case) They were waiting in the empty lock - someone had managed to start water running down. When it looked as if there was just enough depth for them to make it over the top cill we (the waiting crews, that is) persuaded them to try to fill the lock. However, we the discovered that the problem was not someone leaving a paddle or gate open when it should have been shut but a substantial leak under the bottom of the lower gates.
Try as well could, the leaks was too much to allow the top gates to be opened, never quite making a level. Fortunately someone had already rung CaRT and a member of staff turned up eventually and took charge even if the only plan he had was to run even more water down and then try an even bigger push on the gates! One of the two boats waiting was also encouraged to enter the lock but when the gate was finally opened, the CaRT person only allowed the first, short, boat up to the next lock until more water came down. He then went off to organise the running of water saying hw would be back in about an hour. At least we could safely have lunch!
On time he returned and the next two boat were successfully processed, leaving just us still waiting. CaRT person went off again but promised only half an hour wait this time.
At last it was our turn and, as with the others, a gentle push from the boat aided the now flagging muscles (fewer in number as it was just Mike and CaRT left to shove!) eventually persuaded the gate to open and we were back on track.
The top two locks are so covered in that permanent lighting is needed!
An at last the top lock! This picture shows just how much can cascade lover the gates. Not a good idea to let a boat get close to this. A young chap was taking an interest as was pleased to help us as he had been wondering how to get started on using the canal.
Overall we were only an our and a half later than expected, if just that bit more exhausted than we had allowed for! The only question now was where to moor. Last time we spent three nights in New Islington Basin, up one lock further which we would then have to come back down tomorrow. Also we were uncertain about how popular and occurred they might now be - they were still quite new before. However, the CaRT person recommended the large basin at Ducie Street where the Rochdale and Ashton Canals join.
Mike remarked o him that we had used this spot once before in the days when the first part of the Rochdale Canal was locked overnight and passage was timed and supervised. turned out that this was his first job 11 years ago when he joined the canals! We opted for a little used section on the opposite bank where there were two convenient mooring rings.
We could see a Morrisons Local on the bridge over the junction and we had missed replacing our now empty tub of Philadelphia. Mike volunteered to go in search. (It may look close but it was a walk around the block to get there) As well as the intended item, he was tempted by several items from a reduced trolley - very substantial reductions. As this is normally Christine's speciality (checking out short dated bargains) she too went on a hunt and returned with yet more purchases!
The evening was very pleasant, sunny and warm and the basin, although a popular place to sit, was very quiet. At one stage we were warned by the CaRT person that we might not be able to pass the failing lock (by the way, we never really found out what the problem is. Is it something stuck on the cill or is it a pending failure of the gate or cill?) Fortunately the fears were not sustained - it was not a great place to be overnight.
5.6 Miles - 9 Locks
We went down Pomona Lock a couple of years ago, and spent two nights moored at Salford Quays. There’s a good mooring right by the Holiday Inn Express which makes a good base for exploring the Imperial War Museum and the Lowry. While you have to book a couple of days in advance (and pay for the lock passage), if you are only going to the Quays and not on the Ship Canal proper, there is no other paperwork required.
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