We set off early, well 8 am, as we wanted to be sure of a mooring in the right place at Godmanchester. We found on past visits that this can be quite busy and there were no easy alternatives to where we planned. Christine had arranged to meet up with one of her bridesmaids from 59 years ago who now lives in Godmanchester along with her new husband David.
But first we had to extricate ourselves from the narrow Waits where we moored overnight. There is a sign suggesting 'limited turning' just beyond but when Mike took a look yesterday he was unconvinced that we came within the category of 'limited'. This meant that we had to reverse out for a couple pf hundred metres onto the main river. Slightly more complicated as two further boats had moored. We managed without hitting anything, not even a gentle glance!
As it was a wonderful, warm Saturday morning a variety of different water users were encountered, including this somewhat lonely traditional row boat. Just before this we had seen several people setting up with very modern racing craft.
Soon we were approaching Hemingford Lock. From a distance we were perplexed as there was no lock landing where our map indicated and the structure looked much lower that elsewhere. Of course - as we came closer we remembered that that is not the lock at all but a substantial bypass weir/sluice.
Our lock was found along a complicated route through the reeds and signs that could only be read when it is really too late!
Like most locks on this part of the river the lock chamber is wider that the gates and allow more than one boat - if of compatible dimensions and steerer skillsets - to share.
Hemingford Church is close to the water and there are several good moorings just a little further on. As it looks should be the case, the tower once proudly featured an elegant steeple but it was blown down in 1742 by a hurricane. It was never replaced.
In the same village is a classic thatched cottage - close to a good stretch of proper moorings.
Hemingford Lock was straightforward.
As we approached Hartford Marina - no need to go in for services this time although we have done so several times before - and we spotted a few of the houseboats that are well known here, outside and inside the marina. We don't know if the present ones were involved but there was a famous court case sev efal years ago when the EA attempted to charge licences on them for the first time. However the judge decided in favour of the boaters on the basis that, as the boats were fixed in place and had no means of moving, they could not be defined as 'vessels'. Although only two specific boats were named in court it was said that at the time up to 200 could have been affected.
It looks as if there is plenty of room to manoeuvre inside the marina.
Hartford House looks very spectacular from the river, with its very large lawn aligned just to get the perfect view. It is quite substantial and dates from early 18C. However, its position and view on Main Street lelies what lies behind. (see and also Google Street View)
Hartford Church is also right alongside the river.
And so into Huntingdon, one an important administrative centre. But we passed though as we still had another lock to go before hopefully finding a mooring. There was room here on two public moorings, albeit looking in need of a little tlc.
After the historic but vehicle unfriendly bridge comes the bypass. This rather more imposing and elegant than some of the more mundane ones on this river.
Finally to Godmanchester lock where there was a pleasant surprise awaiting us: two volunteer lock keepers who cheerfully took us through without having to stir ourselves at all. They also advised us to stay on the EA mooring right next to the lock - the others somewhat nearer to the town itself are not so good.
Later we watched them bring two slightly nervous narrowboats into the lock together. Easy really but obvious.
This is the view from the mooring down towards the town.
Opposite our mooring we could see the imposing Farm Hall. Althiugh it is now back in private ownership, for a while it played an important role in the Second World War. Built originally in 1746 it was requisitioned by MI6 as a base for final preparations of spies as they were about to be dropped secretly behind enemy lines and undertake SOE operations. Later, a number of German nuclear scientists working on an atomic weapon but who were captured, were held here. The authorities were keen to avoid knowledge of the possibility of an atomic bomb becoming public knowledge and generating public fear. A later owner Dr Echenique found extensive listening devices under the floorboards of the house. (see)
6.2 Miles - 4 Locks
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