Leicester, Castle Gardens

Today's Canal : Grand Union Leicester Branch

We did not plan on moving much today: we had a bit more shopping to do and were pleased to be able to find a space to moor at Castle Gardens which is close to the large Tesco superstore. Timing around making this move meant that it was unrealistic to attempt to go to the morning service at the cathedral (only a few  minutes walk from the mooring) so opted to go instead to Evensong at 3:30.

We left our overnight mooring around 10:30, now completely empty. (It is a pity that there is still a poor reputation for mooring towpath side with only four spaces at castle Gardens which are almost always fully subscribed. We certainly had a good, quiet stay here once again.

We made sure that there was a good gap in traffic and moved swiftly across to the navigation side of the water. We certainly had to maintain a careful watch even cruising under a mile.

One of the bridges is aptly called Swan Bridge as there are plenty around. Last night most of them seemed to take part in a flying display along the length of the straight. Makes for quite a spectacular sight and sound when almost all of them join in at the same time. Sorry, missed the photo op!

There was room for at least two more longer boats on the Castle Gardens mooring as we arrived one of which was a hire boat from Canal Cruising that passed us a little earlier. We moored as close to the far end as we could, making normal use of the oddly positioned cleats. But then the two boats that followed us down the locks yesterday arrived - they had stopped a little earlier than initially planned. The first arrived and hovered, clearly hoping that we could magic up enough space for them as they really did not want to be on the towpath side for their two day stay. We and the boat next back did in fact mange - just - to do that by smallish adjustment to our positions. The second boat arrived and there was no chance o coming alongside at this stage but the hire boat did let it be known that they were not staying all day. So, the waiting boat breasted up with their boating partners. Conversation once they were tied up revealed that they have a three month hire from Lower Heyford which they have done - on the same boat - for several years. They live in Israel, very close to the Lebanon border. They moved there from Africa about four decades to escape the growing prejudice against them that they were experiencing.

After another coffee break we made our second shopping trip, this time to the large Tesco on the opposite side of the waterway. We began by walking through Castle Gardens (only a small urban sanctuary) up onto the footbridge that is an important pedestrian link to the distinctly student area.

On the route to the supermarket we were suddenly confronted by this remaining railway structure. You guessed: part of the Great Central line. For the next couple of miles or so, the track bed has become largely built over until its route can be discerned close to the northern edge of the city. Much of the line through Leicester was built in an elevated position for various reasons - here as it crossed the Old River Soar.

On the way back we could see that the Canal Cruising boat had now departed and all the remaining boats were neatly lined up, tied to the pontoon.

After lunch we made ready to walk to the cathedral - it really is close from here. Despite some earlier threats of rain, it was very pleasant and sunny as we sat for a while in the cathedral grounds. We had left intentionally early so that we did not have to rush our walk and could also spend a little time inside.

Sadly, we failed to take any successful pictures of the cathedral! Inside the choir were rehearsing which offered a calming background to our time of waiting. The cathedral choir have developed a scheme of going out to small parishes around the diocese once a month to sing evensong, especially in places that do not have the resources to do so themselves. This meant that let behind only a group of five musicians from the Songmen (their term for the professional adult singers - men and women!)

There had been a large confirmation service with the Bishop in the morning so it was perhaps unsurprising that the congregation this afternoon  was sparse. In fact there were only five others beside ourselves!

For those unfamiliar with the tradition of Sung Evensong, all but a couple of hymns is sung by the choir and a cantor. The power of the singers, and good acoustics, filled the whole cathedral space within incredible sound. The setting, mostly by Dalitz, was captivating and used many attractive but less usual, harmonies. Both of the clergy on duty were very friendly in chatting afterwards.

The weather remained fine as we walked back to the boat but later turned to quite heavy rain. The next few days promise a mixed bag of sunshine and showers but our pressing need to find a water tap means that we will have to press on regardless. Elsan disposal will also soon need to be found! Such is the live of boaters but Leicester has long been especially poorly provided with essential services.

0.8 Miles - 0 Locks