Canons Ashby

A substantial change in the weather. Gone were the intermittent heavy showers, some thundery, of the past few days, and back to the bright blue skies and quite warm sunshine. 

This was the view from the front of our boat, just as we were getting up this morning. Our plan was to set off in our car about 10:30 and drive to Canons Ashby, a National Trust property about 20 miles away.

Thankfully we have satnav as the route was rather complex, some main roads, Fosse Way and A45, but much on narrow country roads and lanes. We arrived within two minutes of the original prediction. After parking and ostentatiously presenting our membership cards at reception, we walked through the grounds to the main house.

It was clear to see from the outset that this place is much better tended than the one we visited last week. OK so there has been some rain but not only was the grass green and in better condition, but also all of the borders were much better stocked. All this is quite surprising because when the property came into the NT management in 1980s the garden was largely overgrown, trees and topiary not maintained and plenty of weeds. But first we opted for coffee - Christine also reserved a couple of Cornish pasties as we thought that we might be on the late side for lunch!

This is the view of the front of the house largely as it was after a new owner did a lot of work in the early 18C. We did not actually see this view until much later as the visitor entrance to tour the house is through a courtyard at the side. When the land and house came into the Dryden family in 16C, the only part of the building, a farm house, was the wing to the right of this picture. The 18C development began with the central tower followed by the wing to the left. Only then were the two parts joined together to form a single dwelling.

This may look as if it is the formal entrance but actually this is the courtyard and posh visitors an their coaches would arrive on a wide drive way to the front of the previous picture.

On one of the courtyard walls we spotted this small decorative stonework. Only at the end of our visit did we discover its origins.

And so we entered the house. We were immediately greeted by the first of a succession of excellent guides who were not only very welcoming but also especially knowledgeable. They did not simply stick to a fixed script. One gentleman proudly told us he had been a guide here for almost 15 years but then introduced us to a lady with 35 years service! Many of the rooms are substantial but in proportions that make it difficult to take good photos!

This is the main dining room from the 18C development - the house generally is laid out as it might have been in the 19C.

The room is much longer than wide and the guide here pointed out to us the mirror over the fireplace which is carefully angled downwards, barely visible, so that those seated with their backs to the windows (right of the picture) could still see out into the gardens!

We were somewhat 'amused' in the Tapestry Room to see this doorway where the chosen location for the door required a large section of the tapestry to be cut out! Philistines!

In the large room above the Great Hall is a similar space that is thought to be perhaps the best featiure of the house, especially its ceiling. When the National Trust took on the building they found that the outside wall and the ceiling had parted company and both were in danger of imminent collapse. The conservators managed to form a support structure in the loft space just above so that now all is quite safe! But the long term distortion of the fireplace is till very visible.

In a small guest room off this room conservators had another surprise. The room, as they received it, had wood panelling everywhere but it too was in poor condition. When they started to remove it for repair they discovered earlier wall paintings.

Well, we did try to capture the ceiling but it needs a much more expert photographer, a room empty of people and an expensive camera todo it real justice. This is the best of our poor bunch!

We were told that from the later 19C onwards the house had about five live in servants. The senior one was the Cook, appointed when only 25. Her status was signified by the size of her room which is quite large alongside many of the family rooms, albeit with simpler furniture. She, along with the other staff, had one day off a month.

By the time we reached the last room, the kitchen, it was well after 1.30 and we did not want the staff in the tea room to think we were not coming back for our pasties. So we left but with permission to return through the exit door when we were ready (and replete) 

Lunch was excellent and it was well warm enough to sit outside, even needing the parasols to shade us. after a good post-prandial relaxing sit we returned to the kitchen and yet another good chat with the guide for that room.

We then turned our attention to the formal gardens to the front of the house. These are laid out in four tiers, with a large kitchen garden at the bottom.

The National Trust gardeners found a number of established topiary shrubs, all of which were rather straggly. Once they started to trim them back they found underneath the 'real' shape from when the garden was originally laid out!

The gardens give a wonderful view of the distant landscape, made all the better in today's sunshine and blue sky.

Right at the bottom is the kitchen and flower garden which would, no doubt, have kept the Cook well busy! It is still kept alive with all sorts of food for the kitchens and a good assortment of flowers. Large enough to cover several standard allotment plots!

And so to the Priory Church which came to the National Trust at the same time as the main house and land. At the time of the Dissolution this was as large and substantial as a small cathedral but only a small part of it was left for the benefit of the local villagers! As a result it is really all out of proportion once inside.

Inside are numerous memorials to members of the Dryden family and their successors. The more recent of the tablets clearly indicate the relationship of the family with southern Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe). They usually lived out there for most of the year, only making occasion short holidays back to Canons Ashby. In the post Second World War period for over two decades the house was leased out to tenants who were unable to maintain much of the property. When the owner in the 1980s died, the family could not afford to keep the property and it was handed 'to the nation' in lieu of death duties (inheritance tax as now) By this time the National Trust were being wary of such gifts, mindful of the increasing costs of ownership and only agreed to accept it once a suitable endowment had been negotiated.

Two tablets record the loss of family sons, killed in the First World War. This is the elder brother.

In a display showing the timeline of the Priory Church we eventually learned about that decorative stone we saw right back at the start of our tour.

And so for our third visit to the tea room for cups of tea and delicious cake and scone, before retracing our steps back to the boat.