Charlecote Park

One of the advantages of having a National Trust annual subscription is that we do not feel uncomfortable going to a property with gardens, a splendid house and great views and spending much of the time sitting, reading and enjoying the late autumn sunshine. Charlecote Park is about 35 minutes drive from Brinklow Marina, quite straightforward save for a couple of rather complex intersections. Alas, Google does not always agree with the road signs regarding place name or the road number. Fortunately its sat nav map is excellent and makes it easy to follow he way around such roundabouts.

Charlecote has been the home of the Lucy family for many centuries, originating in northern France just after the Norman Conquest. The central part of the present house dates back to the16C but a major re-build took place around 1854. A young couple were the head of the family at that time and as soon as they moved in after the wedding they set about 're-edifying' the property with major extensions. Even so, the house lacked many comforts that we would consider essential today (like running water and toilets!)

The car park is a short walk from the house along a straight and open path from the main ornamental gates (currently having major restoration)

At the end of this approach stands an impressive gatehouse. In one of the rooms is a wall display of the major milestones in the family history. When the estate passed from one generation to the next in 1945, the new owner handed it over to the National Trust, with a condition that the family could continue to live in a substantial wing in perpetuity. (Hence only some rooms are open to the public)

A further open walk leads up to the front door of the house but we turned  right to go int the garden on the right. (We were in search of a coffee and scone - traditional NT fare!)

On the right of the above photo is an entrance to a raised part of the garden, with the steps 'guarded' by two rural, idyllic, figures: a shepherdess and a herdsman or piper. 

An intriguing little thatched cottage was originally built as a summerhouse or play room for young children and grand children of one of the ladies of the house (Lady Mary Elizabeth Lucy) - hence it is sometimes now called Granny's Summerhouse and is said to be modelled on Plas Newyyd in Llangollen which we visited last year. It is said that Mary Elizabeth had a holiday there when a young child.

After coffee we walked back to the front of the house is is a view from the top of the steps that we saw earlier.

In many ways the formal rooms held few surprises, even if there were many interesting items, collected by the family over many generations. This is the first room after the main entrance. One of the best features of the house - the Dining Room - is behind the closed door in the middle of the picture. What started as a small wet patch turned out to be a major restoration project, now thankfully approaching completion but until then it is closed to the public.

Above the bookcases in the Library is a set of 15 Greek vases, all but one found in an 18C/19C archeological dig and date back to fourth century BC. The last one was made when the vases were bought for the newly renovated house around 1840. (We were not told which one is the fake!)

This is the third year that the National Trust have had a pumpkin event in the house - this year it comprises two large 'heaps' of knitted or fabric pumpkins, one on the  billiard table and one in the main kitchen.

This is the Drawing Room - actually closer to the Dining Room than it at first appears - or so we were told - a special passage allowed the ladies to leave the gentlemen to their cigars and port without much effort!

It has a rather splendid ceiling. After seeing all of the rooms on view in the main house we adjourned to the Orangery for lunch - Cornish pasties!

Slightly away from the ain house is a large block of utility rooms where much of the work (by servants, of course) involved in running a large country house took place. First is the kitchen with two ranges (there is also a separate baking oven next door in the scullery)

The laundry took up two rooms - one 'wet' and one 'dry'. The first is where things are washed - in itself a major task in days before the introduction of cleaver detergents - and the other where they were taken once dry to be ironed, repaired or whatever. These two rooms were the only places which were exclusively  staffed by women (or young girls) The work was at least as heavy as that done by many men.

Another important feature on a large estate was the brewhouse. Beer was made for all those who lived or worked here - small beer (very low alcohol content) was much safer to drink that straight from rivers and wells.

The final wing was the Coach House. The Lucy family certainly built up a splendid collection of horse drawn vehicles. On formal occasions there was a grand Coach, drawn perhaps by four horses and controlled by a postillion - riding on the rear left horse. Whilst mainly for show, there is room at the back for several footmen to stand. It also has quite complex suspension rear and front, to take out the worst of the bumps from potholes and ruts - roads were (believe it!) even worse that some today . . . 

In marked contrast is the Battlesden Car, pulled by a pony and intended to be driven by a lady - even, perhaps, on her own! The design incorporates especially large mudguards (compare with the Whitechapel Cart behind), a selling point to the ladies, it is said.

At the rear of the house there is an impressive view across the River Avon which runs alongside a well maintained parterre.

The style of parterre (from French on the ground) here is typical of how the concept evolved by the mid 19C after which the whole idea fell out of favour and was replaced by more naturalistic landscaping. At the time this garden was initially created in the 1700s, the favoured design used miniature box shrubs, clipped into low hedges in complex patterns. What we see today is a modern re-creation based on the original plans. Even at this stage in early Autumn, it is immaculately maintained and still full of colour. We were able to sit for some time, directly overlooking the river and basking in rather warm sunshine.

Eventually we had to stir ourselves and make our third and final visit to the Orangery for tea and cake!

Back aboard. Mike completed a deep clean of the oven which he started first thing today. Apart from generally just being well overdue, we have had an issue with it on the last three evenings in the midst of cooking dinner. Although starting well, after a while it would then go out. On re-lighting it would repeat the process every 5 to 10 minutes! Each time this led to a somewhat longer time to cook the meal.

Fortunately we did still have a part can of a very good oven cleaner (some are much better than others). After giving it two doses - leaving for about 20 - 30 minutes each time - a large amount of very greasy muck could be wiped away although the internal roof of the oven needed a firm but gentle hand with a small scraper! Whilst we could not pretend that it is yet back to 'looking like new', it does seem to have resolved the presenting issue. In any case, it looks much healthier and Mike feels just a tad more virtuous, at least for the rest of the evening!

Last of Three

Today we had a visit from the third electrician who also spent some considerable time understanding what has happened as well as examining our installation.

All three have been amazingly detailed and, as expected, leave us at this stage with a difficult task of comparing very different proposals.

Yesterday Afternoon, Church and Roast Dinner

After writing the last blog we went out shopping. The first task was to find our way to a branch of Edinburgh Woollen Mill as an outlet in Rugby Garden Centre. We looked it up on Google and then on the Maps so we thought we knew in which direction we should be headed. We took the post code from the website, set the sat nav and set off.

Everything seemed to be going as expected until we arrived at a junction with 1 minute to go to the calculated ETA. We followed the instruction from the sat nav lady and turned right at a crossroads only to discover about 200 m further on that we were at a potato farm with a serious security gate blocking the way.

No choice but to turn around and at the cross roads the lady told us to go right and dutifully we did, retracing our steps for well over a mile. After a while we began to be even more suspicious and pulled in to the side of the road. But yes, the kindly sat nav lady still wanted us to carry on. Eventually we came to a mini roundabout where we instructed to go right around, back where we had just come.

We again stopped and checked Google Maps - yes the destination was where we expected it to be but not at the potato farm. This time we input the name of the garden centre which, it turns out, is in the same post code as the farm, but separated by several fields! This time we made it, after about 20 minutes wasted diversions.

Chatting to the shop staff it seems that we are not the first to have made an unplanned visit to the potatoes. After earlier being harangued that he had not bought any new shirts for over two years, Mike was then looked at very critically when he picked out four that he liked! Clothes shopping is just not something that Mike can ever get right, it seems . . . 

Christine went into another outlet or two but failed miserably (your writer says unadvisedly) to find anything to fit or to please. It was by now well after noon and we opted to go back to the boat (by a different route!) After a short distance we discovered why we were not brought this way at first - the country road joins the A45 dual carriageway with only a left turn and there is no access from the other side.

After a lengthy lunch (aka recovery) we set off for our other shopping destination - Tesco. This time we were on much more familiar territory, arriving with no extra diversions.

This morning we began by going into Brinklow for the morning service at the parish church. This was the third time since we arrived at the marina and we were by now recognised by the small but very friendly and welcoming congregation.

By the time we had spent as long in chatting after the service as the service itself took, it was all but time for lunch back at the boat. We then received an email from the third electrician we had contacted, but who had not yet given us a time to visit. he will be with us tomorrow morning (all being well) This is very convenient as we should then be well placed to come to some sort of decision about how to move forward. With luck we can get to that point before we have to return home later this week.

Time then to start to prepare our evening meal - the obligatory (almost) roast - luckily using a piece of already roasted pork left over from a large piece a few week ago and kept in the freezer just for such an occasion as this! But the menu writer also proposed a rice pudding and a soft fruit compote (using the good harvest we reaped from our own garden)

Investigations

Our boat has remained at Brinklow Marina as the route from here to Cropredy is still closed. In the past couple of days we have learnt that CaRT may be able to open the southern part of the Oxford Canal from Napton downwards for just a week at the end of October, but only for certain purposes. One of them is for boaters returning to their home mooring - such as ourselves.

Brinklow and Cropredy marinas are very comparable and both offer excellent support to moorers so being here is not a major problem. It is, however, a slightly longer journey from home and both do not have a local bus service - but this is only important when a trip requires a car shuffle. On the few occasions we have need to do this, we have found good taxi services at both Rugby and Banbury stations.

Although we have nothing to add to the blog about our cruising experiences, the time at home has not been without boat activity: right from the start of our time with Alchemy we have wanted to tackle a downside in the electrical design. Although our detailed daily readings from the Mastervolt system clearly show what we want to address, none of a series of electricians has been able to suggest what to do. This has not been helped by being on the move when we have been able to involve them so time for an extended investigation has not been possible. Our present situation, with no boating for the last part of the season had prompted us to try again but with much greater determination!

We made start with someone who is resident in the marina but by the time we returned home he emailed to say that he was winding down his freelance work as he had now managed to get a full time job locally! Good for him - not so good for us!

So we started again and trawled through as many boat electrician web sites as possible looking firstly for those who state that they cover either Brinklow or Cropredy. We also tried to discern their experience but also their general approach to boat electrics - which manufacturer do they prefer, can they diagnose/service Mastervolt (our present installation), do they have a particular tendency towards lithium or lead acid and so on. In parallel we spent quite a bit of time trying to get some help from the original supplier but they were remarkably capable of infinite prevarication (despite advertising a technical support service!)

We are very keen not simply to change (expensive) parts of the system unless it can be clearly demonstrated that they are not only better in the identified aspects but also just as good on everything else as that which we already use.

We took the time to prepare detailed printouts of relevant data and also wrote a short description of what we were seeking which we could send to possible electricians.

We lined up three possibilities, one with a conventional lead acid background, one with a Mastervolt speciality and one who concentrates on lithium installations. We accepted that this might make our subsequent decision all the more difficult as we will have to judge not only their costs and skills but also between probably very different overall advice. However, as we may well have to spend quite a bit to get where we want to be, we would like to consider the various alternatives.

One confirmed definitely for Friday (yesterday) and a second indicated that they hoped to be able to come the same day, but did not actually confirm that they would be coming! The third has promised to come before we return home but cannot confirm when.

So, we came up on Thursday - the roads were not unduly busy although on the motorway we were glad not to be going the other way as an incident has closed the other carriageway just minutes earlier, judging by the length of the tail back. We arrived within four minutes of the original satnav ETA.

The first 'candidate' arrived just ahead of time and we had a very interesting and lengthy conversation, reviewing the data, before he started to look at our system. He was still going strong after two hours when there was a knock to announce that the second one had arrived (in this case actually a team of two) This was initially a bit embarrassing as at first it seemed as if Mike had made a mistake over timings but whilst Christine finished off with the first, Mike took the other two across to the boaters' room for a chat and review of the data etc. (It later transpired that Mike was the more correct in that we had not received any actual confirmation - we and they had made different assumptions about the last email exchange) When the boat was free we went back so that they could examine our system. They took a rather different diagnostic approach but also a similar length of time. As expected they differ significantly in their initial conclusions

We were very pleased that it does seem that we have this time been able to find people who are willing and able to take the matter to the depth that we believe it needs to identify a way forward. Both undertook to email us with their conclusions and a budgetary price indication for completing any work that they advise. Hopefully we will eventually have a third for comparison (Mike has long held the view that if you need more than one advice never take two, always at least three)

Another factor has always been that of timescale to do the work. Getting an estimate is one thing but having someone on site is very different! Fortunately, Christine has been able to establish with Brinklow that, if necessary, we can stay here into the winter. With the window to access Cropredy only seven days and with a warning that the canal may still be very shallow (of course, it also depends on Cropredy being able to remove their stop planks in time!) we have been getting increasingly nervous about making the move at that time, also with the clocks changing as well. At least we now have the luxury of options.

If you have read this far you will no doubt have realised that we are being remarkably cagey about what it is that we are seeking to do, This is largely because we as yet do not know the underlying causes and certainly do not have the confidence to know what changes we should make! If possible we hope to 'come clean' as soon as we have made progress . . . 

But just as a teaser, and so that we have at least one photo to give a thumbnail for this blog entry, here is a clue!

Rest Day

After a slow start we drove into Rugby for a top-up shop in Tesco

We had planned that Mike would come back in the afternoon to charge the car whilst Christine finished packing and cleaning. We completed our shopping a little quicker  than  expected - not quite noon - so we opted to go to GridServe (the one that eventually worked for Mike earlier in the week) All went well on this occasion but the earlier experience did help as the GridServe system does not seem quite as tolerant of odd user behaviour (like leaving the car door open when going to the terminal to close the charging before it reaches 100%!)

After lunch we finished preparing for tomorrow's return  to home but Christine 'forced' Mike out to go and read his book sitting at some of the chairs around the site, whilst she mopped the floor!

Later, Christine walked around the marina to discover what was happening in a couple of container cabins at the far end. It seems that one is a small coffee shop whilst the other - according to the person running it - is being developed as a small scale community hub. Christine was able to tell him about Waterways Chaplains and promised that Mike would bring some leaflets next time we visit.

Canons Ashby

A substantial change in the weather. Gone were the intermittent heavy showers, some thundery, of the past few days, and back to the bright blue skies and quite warm sunshine. 

This was the view from the front of our boat, just as we were getting up this morning. Our plan was to set off in our car about 10:30 and drive to Canons Ashby, a National Trust property about 20 miles away.

Thankfully we have satnav as the route was rather complex, some main roads, Fosse Way and A45, but much on narrow country roads and lanes. We arrived within two minutes of the original prediction. After parking and ostentatiously presenting our membership cards at reception, we walked through the grounds to the main house.

It was clear to see from the outset that this place is much better tended than the one we visited last week. OK so there has been some rain but not only was the grass green and in better condition, but also all of the borders were much better stocked. All this is quite surprising because when the property came into the NT management in 1980s the garden was largely overgrown, trees and topiary not maintained and plenty of weeds. But first we opted for coffee - Christine also reserved a couple of Cornish pasties as we thought that we might be on the late side for lunch!

This is the view of the front of the house largely as it was after a new owner did a lot of work in the early 18C. We did not actually see this view until much later as the visitor entrance to tour the house is through a courtyard at the side. When the land and house came into the Dryden family in 16C, the only part of the building, a farm house, was the wing to the right of this picture. The 18C development began with the central tower followed by the wing to the left. Only then were the two parts joined together to form a single dwelling.

This may look as if it is the formal entrance but actually this is the courtyard and posh visitors an their coaches would arrive on a wide drive way to the front of the previous picture.

On one of the courtyard walls we spotted this small decorative stonework. Only at the end of our visit did we discover its origins.

And so we entered the house. We were immediately greeted by the first of a succession of excellent guides who were not only very welcoming but also especially knowledgeable. They did not simply stick to a fixed script. One gentleman proudly told us he had been a guide here for almost 15 years but then introduced us to a lady with 35 years service! Many of the rooms are substantial but in proportions that make it difficult to take good photos!

This is the main dining room from the 18C development - the house generally is laid out as it might have been in the 19C.

The room is much longer than wide and the guide here pointed out to us the mirror over the fireplace which is carefully angled downwards, barely visible, so that those seated with their backs to the windows (right of the picture) could still see out into the gardens!

We were somewhat 'amused' in the Tapestry Room to see this doorway where the chosen location for the door required a large section of the tapestry to be cut out! Philistines!

In the large room above the Great Hall is a similar space that is thought to be perhaps the best featiure of the house, especially its ceiling. When the National Trust took on the building they found that the outside wall and the ceiling had parted company and both were in danger of imminent collapse. The conservators managed to form a support structure in the loft space just above so that now all is quite safe! But the long term distortion of the fireplace is till very visible.

In a small guest room off this room conservators had another surprise. The room, as they received it, had wood panelling everywhere but it too was in poor condition. When they started to remove it for repair they discovered earlier wall paintings.

Well, we did try to capture the ceiling but it needs a much more expert photographer, a room empty of people and an expensive camera todo it real justice. This is the best of our poor bunch!

We were told that from the later 19C onwards the house had about five live in servants. The senior one was the Cook, appointed when only 25. Her status was signified by the size of her room which is quite large alongside many of the family rooms, albeit with simpler furniture. She, along with the other staff, had one day off a month.

By the time we reached the last room, the kitchen, it was well after 1.30 and we did not want the staff in the tea room to think we were not coming back for our pasties. So we left but with permission to return through the exit door when we were ready (and replete) 

Lunch was excellent and it was well warm enough to sit outside, even needing the parasols to shade us. after a good post-prandial relaxing sit we returned to the kitchen and yet another good chat with the guide for that room.

We then turned our attention to the formal gardens to the front of the house. These are laid out in four tiers, with a large kitchen garden at the bottom.

The National Trust gardeners found a number of established topiary shrubs, all of which were rather straggly. Once they started to trim them back they found underneath the 'real' shape from when the garden was originally laid out!

The gardens give a wonderful view of the distant landscape, made all the better in today's sunshine and blue sky.

Right at the bottom is the kitchen and flower garden which would, no doubt, have kept the Cook well busy! It is still kept alive with all sorts of food for the kitchens and a good assortment of flowers. Large enough to cover several standard allotment plots!

And so to the Priory Church which came to the National Trust at the same time as the main house and land. At the time of the Dissolution this was as large and substantial as a small cathedral but only a small part of it was left for the benefit of the local villagers! As a result it is really all out of proportion once inside.

Inside are numerous memorials to members of the Dryden family and their successors. The more recent of the tablets clearly indicate the relationship of the family with southern Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe). They usually lived out there for most of the year, only making occasion short holidays back to Canons Ashby. In the post Second World War period for over two decades the house was leased out to tenants who were unable to maintain much of the property. When the owner in the 1980s died, the family could not afford to keep the property and it was handed 'to the nation' in lieu of death duties (inheritance tax as now) By this time the National Trust were being wary of such gifts, mindful of the increasing costs of ownership and only agreed to accept it once a suitable endowment had been negotiated.

Two tablets record the loss of family sons, killed in the First World War. This is the elder brother.

In a display showing the timeline of the Priory Church we eventually learned about that decorative stone we saw right back at the start of our tour.

And so for our third visit to the tea room for cups of tea and delicious cake and scone, before retracing our steps back to the boat.

Boat as a Holiday Cottage

We still cannot go cruising and no end to the lockdown is in sight, So, we opted to visit the boat for a few days and, if the weather is as forecast, may make use of our National Trust membership to visit one or perhaps two places not too far from Brinklow.

We drove up yesterday - we had a hair appointment at 8.30 (not our choice as we re-arranged at short notice!) but it did mean that we were able to get away before 10:30. Not only was the traffic flow quite smooth but we also had no rain. As a result we arrived at the marina within two minutes of the original ETA.

The marina office is closed on Wednesdays so we could not retrieve our key set. We had left it, not only for the marina's benefit but also because we had arranged for an electrician to visit to make some checks. However, we had a phone call when we were back at home to say that the key ring did not have a boat door key on it! We were most surprised as we have two full sets of keys one of which we use to leave at a marina. Fortunately we do also have another way of remotely giving someone access so the electrician was able to do his checks.

However, we were really intrigued by the lack of a door key but sorting that out will have to wait until tomorrow.

That apart, all seems well and although the route back to Cropredy remains blocked (the first stoppage is at Hillmorton) Brinklow Marina is on a long pound and they have not had to put stop planks in (unlike Cropredy and Calcutt) The level in the marina is much as we would normally expect.

In the afternoon the predicted rain showers arrived, interspersed by bright sunny spells. Some of the showers were very heavy and one brought a loud thunderclap. Although this rain is very welcome it is far from enough to allow CaRT to lift the restrictions any time soon