During the night there had been a thunderstorm - however, Mike only woke when there was a very loud thunder clap which then proved to be the final throe of the storm. It continued to rain until morning.
After getting up, Mike walked across the leisure centre field into town for a newspaper. He also found some lemon curd - we failed to find any at Asda! Just so we could test it out properly he also bought a couple of croissants which Christine promptly turned into breakfast.
Setting off, we immediately came to Ashline Lock, one of only two unattended locks on the Middle Level. It is reasonably easy to operate except that the penstocks (known on the canals as paddles) required a large number of turns to open - we lost count!
Since it took both of us to fill and then empty the lock, we were left with the final task of how to get back on the boat! Usually Mike is able to climb down the lock ladder on then onto the roof. However, the design of this lock has the ladders set well back into the side and it seemed too big a step from there. Instead, we pulled the boat part way out of the lock so that the stern was alongside the ladder and Mike could easily step from the ladder at that level.
After the lock the navigation changes name from King's Dyke to Whittlesey Dyke and with it much higher sides. A little later the bank level was lower and we could see much more of the surrounding features.
There are quite a few former pill boxes dotted along the navigation. These, of course, date back to the last war when the authorities were concerned that unwanted intruders might make their way secretly inland to attack vital facilities. Whilst it is quite likely that this was a realistic threat, it does seem a bit improbable that it could be done in secret as the waterway is wide and the banks sufficiently well maintained that hiding does not seem an option!
Up til now, the navigation had been quite bendy but we started to find ourselves on the typical long straight sections that indicate that this was an entirely man made route, rather than one fashioned from a natural river course.
The Middle Level channels are primarily for drainage rather than navigation. Fenland is naturally below sea level and until drainage and pumping schemes were introduced many centuries ago much would have been either permanently or frequently inundated. The Middle Level Commissioners is a statutory body that has the power to level charges on the land owners in order to pay for the works. Very frequently there are small pumping stations or sluices which bring water up from the field to the drains. Over time this has become an increasing task as the peat landscape has gradually shrink and thus become lower.
A sudden splash of red from poppies that have escaped!
Oh look - GCHQ is keeping tabs on us even out here . . .
Most of the farmers in this region specialise in particular vegetables. This farm, EC Brown, is now fourth generation and they concentrate on onions and potatoes. This crates can be seen piled along each farm and marked with the initials to denote which farm they have come from. presumably this is used when they go to wholesale market or direct to major shops and processed food producers.
The first lilies are just emerging from below the water.
Just after Floods Ferry we spotted this sign which was put up for the Millennium and ,marks the meridian. At least we know were we are in one direction around the globe! All we need now is the longitude . . .
Another entry in the unusual boats gallery - this one is called Party Boat - let's hope the party-goers do not get so merry that they fall off! It looks as if it is built on top of two canoes.
A short distance outside March we passed this imposing building which is the head office for the Middle Level Commissioners.
Through March the navigation becomes much narrower and almost every adjoining house has a mooring and most have some form of summer house, each trying to outdo their neighbours in quirkiness.
We stopped in March for lunch - there was plenty of room on thew town moorings -0 at one time they were frequently fully occupied by long stay boats. Just before, we used the sani station facilities
After lunch Christine walked up to the Town Bridge and had a better view of the moorings. She also spotted this ornate structure which she later discovered is a Memorial Fountain, commemorating the coronation of George V in 1911.
A floating wilderness garden?
At the edge of town it looks as if the Town Council is still ready to repel invaders.
At Low Corner we turned off the Link Route onto Pophams Eau, the first stretch that we did not do in 2010 when we visited the Middle Level before. It is now possible to navigate a ring which includes Bill Fen Marina where we are booked to leave the boat for a short time. Previously this was not generally possible because one bridge was rather too low. Sadly, other navigations that look perfectly usable are blocked by similar low bridges and are not open to narrow boats or cruisers - lower boats could readily pass under most.
Cygnets are beginning to emerge, still under the watchful eye of their parents.
We arrived at the next junction in hope that there would be room at the Three Holes mooring. On the boaters guide from the Commissioners it looked as if this was quite a large mooring but cameras can be deceptive. (Actually, at present the MLC do not provide any moorings - these were created by the IWA and are maintained by Upwell town council) There was a small cruiser at one end but enough for us to tie a bow and centre line with a post in the water for the stern. Just have to make sure that when we get up in the morning we do not try to step off at the back!
We gathered rather a lot of material dropped from an overhanging tree at last night's mooring. After we stopped, we spent some time sweeping and washing the roof and front deck gto get rid of it all. Not 'spic and span' but much better!
17.3 Miles - 1 Lock
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