Buxton

The eagle eyed amongst you may well have wondered how we managed to get the boat to Buxton - there is no canal beyond Whaley Bridge! Well, we opted for a day trip using train and bus. The station is only about 5 - 10 minutes walk from where we moored.

First, we had to walk around the canal basin with a Transhipment Warehouse at the end. It was constructed so that boats could enter directly from the canal and goods transferred to trucks on the Cromford and High Peak Railway at the other side.

The canal and railway were completed around 1832 - a building opposite the warehouse, now known as Outram House, was originally a stables for canal boats and the cottages were for warehouse and canal workers. By the start of the 20C, the first part of this line had already been dismantled.

The station still has many of the details of earlier days - the footbridge for example. The Ticket Office is accessed by a steep set of steps - and yes, the office is still opened although the person serving us did not think that is would remain so indefinitely. Indeed, he apologised that he could not sell us tickets at the same reduced rate that we could have bought on-line!

The half hour journey runs through some scenic open moorland, calling at Chapel-en-le-Frith, but passing through without stopping at Doveholes. (the pictures had to be taken through the train window whilst it was moving so are not perhaps as clear as they might be)

The train terminated at Buxton, now the end of the line, although the original track continues a little further to serve local limestone quarries. There were once two quite grand stations - one has now entirely disappeared following the closure of the line through Millers Dale and the site now used for a splendid blocks of retirement flats not long completed. The other, the one still in use, has largely been dismantled and is a pale shadow of its former self, The Palace Hotel remains as a reminder of how well-to-do folk would arrive by train (the 'in' way to travel) in order to take the waters at the spa baths.

We did not have a plan of what to do or see, just wander and take what turned up! We spent the first hour or so in Spring Gardens, a pedestrianised street with a lively set of shops on either side and a modern precinct off it. We stopped at one of the coffee shops - it was cold outside and cosy inside so we did not rush to empty our cups!

On then to the Crescent, passing Buxton Baths on the way, now a shopping arcade.

The Crescent became a run-down area but has recently been brought back to life and is now mainly a posh hotel with a visitor attraction in one party (£11.50 for self guided tour, which we gave a miss!)

Opposite the Crescent is the Pump House. This is now a small visitor information centre.

Here is one of the earliest mineral water wells - we think that the strange character about to dive into the pool is in honour of Abbie Wood, an Olympic swimmer who hails from Buxton and who was part of the GB relay team that brought home a silver medal.

We took a lunch break at the Old Hall Hotel for lunch - a very traditional style of hotel (as we imagined) but could do with a bit of an uplift. Our lunch choices were a bit mixed although Christine enjoyed her salmon Caesar salad.

Next came the Opera House and Pavilions - alongside (guess!) Pavilion Gardens. 

To the left of the main theatre in the previous photo is a cast iron and glass conservatory which we could walk through. The complex was designed by Frank Matcham (d 1920) who had become famous as a go-to theatre designer.

The Gardens underwent a major restoration in 2004 when a Victorian style bandstand was created. Alas no concert today.

We sat for a while in the park with its several lakes and also a miniature railway.

From here we walked up the steep Hall Bank road to the large, open Market Square where we expected to catch a 199 bus back to Whaley Bridge. We had about 10 minutes to wait before the scheduled departure (it starts its journey to Manchester Airport from here) It is a twice-hourly service and we were a bit concerned when there was no arrival for another 20 minutes. The service comes along a motorway section which, another driver told us, can often cause lengthy delays. Eventually, it arrived at the other side of the square and promptly turned around and came to our stop!

The bus route follows much the same as the train except that it did come through Doveholes so we did see a glimpse of the quarry we referred to earlier, where a long DB train of wagons was being loaded with large quantities of rock. (We do have to say that the train was much the more comfortable, especially legroom-wise but our buss pass meant that the return trip was 'free')

Back in Whaley Bridge (the bus stop was even close to the boat than the train) Christine succumbed to the temptation of a specialist yummy cake shop we had spotted earlier (actually, she was originally looking for a bread shop but nothing so mundane here!)

Whaley Bridge

Today's Canal : Upper Peak Forest

We feared that today might be wet at times but, despite remaining rather grey, it was also dry throughout and the wind had died down to almost nothing.

One of us was somewhat late out of bed today but nonetheless we were away around 10, leaving Marple Junction behind us. 

Only a little way before we spotted the sign for Tramway Wharf. Although today this looks somewhat insignificant, it was at the end of the 18C a very busy place. The Upper Peak Forest was built first to exploit the limestone quarries at Bugsworth. Large lime kilns were constructed next to where the junction now is. The Company soon discovered a large demand for moving lime and limestone in towards Manchester  and built the Lower Peak Forest. The problem was they then ran out of money for the expensive project to link the two together and it was some time before they could afford to construct the Marple Aqueduct and Locks. In the meantime, a tramway had to suffice. Further details see, for example, here or here.

There are four moveable bridges to be opened - the first is by far the hardest. It is manual and took 88 turns of the gear mechanism. Exhausting and by then another boat had arrived - with a free passage!

We were now having more views across to the Peak District although only occasionally with a full panorama - the canal is generally shielded by trees and shrubs. All we could wish for was a sunnier day . . . 

The next moveable bridge was just around a corner so merited a warning sign. So which will it be: a lift bridge (as in the pictogram) or a swing bridge (as in the legend)?

It is, in fact, a swing bridge. The locking device is rather heavy to lift but the bridge itself was very easy to move. There was another lift bridge in between which is electrified - but we forgot a photo so that we must do on our return.

Another view of the hills across the Goyt Valley.

A section of towpath bank is being repaired - the diversion notice suggested that it would be completed by today but there must be a little overrun. The piling has been done and most of the gravel support behind it is in place but the original stone capping is underway. This part shows the care that is being taken to maintain the heritage and methods particular to this canal. 

This is the Swizells factory - no need to announce its arrival. Our noses told all! They have been in business almost 100 years now and are the inventors of a number of iconic sweets known from every childhood! Love Hearts, Drumstick, Parma Violets, Fizzers and Refreshers bars to name but some. And they still bring new ideas to the market.

We called at the service wharf of Furness Vale Marina but it seems that Bank Holidays are like weekends for them and so we could not replace a gas bottle as hoped. But at least we were able to confirm that they do stock Calor (or so their price menu indicates) We will try again on the way back as they are well known for competitive pricing. We might also by then be able to take on a meaningful amount of diesel.

Shortly after this we moored for lunch and thought about what next. We really did need to call at a boater services station but there is one both at Whaley Bridge and Bugsworth. Which should we go to first? Just down the Whaley Bridge arm is a Tesco store - the towpath on most of this arm is given over to long term moorings but we managed to squeeze in underneath a wide road bridge which is not a 

restricted mooring. We also hatched a plan to go off-canal for a day trip, not least because there are several places near here where both a bus and train can be caught vert easily. So, after doing all the usual servicing we turned (and made a complete hash by catching on an unexpected underwater shelf. We even had to accept an offer of help from a passer-by!) We moored as soon as possible - there is only a very short length of Visitor Mooring. It is close to a busy main road but by now it was getting on in time.

6.5 Miles - 0 Locks

Marple - Church and Water

Today's Canals : Peak Forest, Macclesfield

This morning we waked up the hill from the canal to the nearest church - both Marple churches are on the outskirts, reflecting the history of the town which only developed from a village once the mill industry arrived. it was the coming of Samuel Oldknow to Mellor in 1790 that transformed the district. Not only did he establish his Mill by the River Goyt, he also sank coal mines, built houses for his workers, made roads, was instrumental in the construction of the Peak Forest and Macclesfield Canals and rebuilt All Saints Church. (see here)

After a short walk along the Macclesfield Canal towpath we used the first 'snake' bridge to take Church Street up the hill - a bit steeper than we had expected!

That road also looks directly back to the centre of Manchester. Alas, we do not have a good zoom lens camera so we make do with the best that a phone can do! Still, it is perhaps just possible to see the skyline with is rapidly increasing number of tower blocks.

As we approached our target we could hear the sound of church bells, but we were a little surprised that they seemed nearer than the church itself. As we later learned, that free-standing tower is all that remains of an earlier building that was otherwise destroyed by fire, replaced as in the quotation above.

We were welcomed at the door by a very friendly Deputy Churchwarden who took a lot of time to talk to us about the church community as well as the history. She even gave us a tour of the extensive facilities, including the main hall which has a panoramic view of the Peak District, including centre stage Kinder Scout. (alas no photos!)

During August, their morning service is what is called Cafe Church - instead of traditional rows of seats, the church was laid out with small cafe tables, 4 - 6 people at each one. Beforehand we all shared in coffee and Danish pastries!

The service was otherwise fairly conventional for this style of church - there were around 100 but a lot of folk were away on holiday (it is, of course, Bank Holiday) so were fewer than the 150+ they would normally see.

Afterwards we walked back down to Marple Junction (where we were moored) - the time more like Google's estimate than on the way up!

By now our water tank was dangerously near to empty, so Mike reversed back to the junction where there should be a full set of boater services. Most of the former canal company maintenance base has been redeveloped for housing, displacing the services to a new block alongside (to the right in the photo). Alas, so far only the water is available. We wondered whether the new block was part of a deal with a developer who is not quite so keen to finish off now that all the new homes have been sold and occupied! Sadly this does sometimes happen so we trust that CaRT will keep up the pressure to have the facility back on line asap - it is quite a distance in two of the three directions for an alternative. Even the far end of the Upper Peak Forest is several hours cruising.

By now the promised rain was falling so we returned to our previous mooring, making our total for today:

0.2 Miles - 0 Locks

Marple

Today's Canal - Peak Forest

We decided to set off as promptly as we could comfortable manage so that we could expect to be above the 16 Marple locks by lunchtime and then be able to go shopping ion the small town centre.

We were into the first lock just before 9 and came up it much as expected. They are deep locks, averaging just over 13 feet each. At this stage our predicted arrival at Marple by 12;30 seemed on target. How wrong could we be?

Problems began at Lock 2 where the top ground paddle was chained up. This meant having to fill the lock only using the gate paddle. With this depth, this needs considerable care, especially until half full to avoid the risk of filling the front well deck with water. Overall, just over a third of the locks (at least) had non-functioning ground paddles.

We made steady if somewhat slow progress and then at Lock 5 we swapped roles with Christine taking to the towpath to operate the paddles and gates. Most of the working paddles and the gates were in reasonably good condition and straightforward. There were plenty of walkers, many families, so she was easily able to call on extra help when something turned a bit heavy. If the problem arose when our boat was first into the lock Mike was in no mood to climb up the ladder to help - more than willing in the more frequent shallower locks.

Lock 7 had to have extensive repair over the winter - Marple Locks have, for many years, been the scene of big winter projects: walls of the deep locks gradually start to bow inwards and then have to be re-built. Here the wall to the left looked great - it has only been back in action for a few months. Not so sure about the other one which has a distinct bow in it.

Although there was a good flow down the bywash, from here on to the top we had a lot op problems with low water levels. The pound between 7 and 8 took a .long tome to cross as Mike gradually eased out and over the cill and then felt his way to the next lock, using every trick he knew to get the boat unstuck from the bottom! This required so much attention that he forgot to take a photo of how low the pound was.

Nearer the top the problem was exacerbated by having extremely short pounds - we had to pass three boats coming down and in two cases the pound was barely longer than either boat. This meant care from the steerer to pass each other. The shortness of the pounds in some cases was coupled with very little of storage ponds so that a lockful of water made a considerable difference to the level.

And so it was with a sense of achievement that we arrived at Lock 16, Top Lock (which worked quite well!)

We then moored immediately beyond the junction with the Macclesfield Canal. Not really a mooring spot (the next part is so labelled) but a local boater from the marina opposite suggested that it was OK. In any case, we needed lunch!

There was a debate how when to use the services - they are a very short distance down the Macc, just beyond the junction bridge. But we had realised that there was a suitable mooring space free just two boats on which, as soon as lunch was done, we speedily moved into. As the number of moving boats suddenly rose (probably locally moored boats out for a short Bank Holiday trip) we did not want to risk losing this convenient spot, just 7 minutes (on Google Maps) walk to the shops. So we deferred a decision about services until later.

The Google walking route was quite a bit shorter than the more obvious route as it knew about a couple of back lanes between the older terraced houses! We completed the essential shopping (didn't want to overburden the carrier on the way back up the hill!) and then had a cup of tea with an Eccles cake from one of the bakeries.

1.3 Miles - 16 Locks

Marple Aqueduct

Today's Canal - Peak Forest

Overnight there had been plenty of rain and also the remnants of a hurricane provided a shirt period of high winds in many parts of the country. Where we had moored was relatively sheltered and so when we awoke we did not feel anything extraordinary about the wind.

Shortly after setting off we could see through the trees an apparently derelict mill building quite close to the canal. This was Unity Mill, originally a cotton mill but later served other purposes but fell empty in 2003, with little sign of it being developed. The local planners have set a framework and it seems that, at least in 2010, they are unkeen on it being used just for residential purposes. Any such proposal has to show that no non-residential use is possible. This may well be why nothing has happened and we wonder whether this might change with the new government emphasis on creating new housing.

After about 20 minutes cruising we arrived at Woodley Tunnel. As we came through a couple of walkers warned us that there is a tree blocking the canal just beyond the far end.

We emerged slowly and very soon had to pull in - no way through, only just overnight in the storm which perhaps had been stronger here than where we moored. We reported to CaRT even before we tied up.

Another boat arrived and were immediately determined not to be held up! They insisted that they could shift it. Before klong they found that it was not as easy at it might seem but they did manage to pull the main part away from the bank. Alas they did manage to break a throttle cable in the process. (How?) However this still left a lot of smaller branches in the way. They then despatched one of the crew to seek a good strong saw and he returned having managed to borrow one from a nearby house! They cleared enough and we were all able to help to pull them through a narrow gap. It was not easy as the canal is rather shallow at the bank edge just right where the tree had fallen. Alas they now had to await RCR to fix their cable but cheerfully encouraged us to try to pass. Gingerly we gave it a go and thought that we were past the branch when we became stuck, by mud not wood. Eventually after wiggling the boat side to side we managed to free ourselves and were on our way once more,  nearly two and a half hours later.

At Romiley a former canal wharf has now become the home of a local drama group.

Again, the canal runs through a wooded area with a steep drop down. It is not easy to capture the sense of the scale of this in a photo, but this is our best try!

We wrote about Romiley Board Mill in 2019 - see here.

Our second tunnel was Hyde Bank. Unlike Woodley, this has no towpath through is and a somewhat squat profile. The roof never feels very far above the steer's head.

Just after the exit from the tunnel a CaRT work party were patching a short section of the bank where there is concern that a breach might occur. We later heard that they think that it may need more than a patch quite soon.

Up until late in 19C, this would have been our third tunnel today - Rose Hill but then it was opened out and so we only have a narrow channel instead. See here for some history and old photos.

And so onto Marple Aqueduct with the railway viaduct alongside - just like at Chirk but here safety concerns led to the addition of a trailing on the off side a few years ago. Some sunshine had also arrived. 

Looking back from the far end.

Already well into lunch time we moored up between the aqueduct and the Marple Locks. (The short length of mooring space below lock 1 was already full with three boats. We ended up with the prettier view!

We felt that it was now too late to attempt to go up the flight without arriving late and risking the lack of a mooring when we reached Marple Junction. The locks are all too closely spaced to make for safe overnight stops mid-flight.

In the afternoon we took (separately) short walks onto the aqueduct and up the first couple of locks. The River Goyt really is a long way down.

And here is a taster of what faces us tomorrow!

3.3 Miles - 0 Locks