Settle to Carlisle Line

No cruising today, instead we took a day trip by train to the Settle to carlisle line and the famous Ribblehead Viaduct.

We began by walking from the boat to Carnforth Station which was made famous by the David Lean 1945 film Brief Encounter which was partly filmed here.

Part of the station is now set up as a heritage centre with displays about the film and the station's history. Alas, it only opens noon - 4pm so we could only see the outside (the Open sign lied!). It does at least give so idea of how stations from that period looked and felt but it is possible that originally there would have been far more staff around (today: none)

The main running platform is noted for its record breaking concrete canopy.

We took five trains today, all but one were run by Northern and were on time. Alas, the one run by Aviva, on the day that its boss resigned over the company's poor, performance, had real problems. Information on the National Rail website was confusing and worrying so we chatted to the Train Manager on the first train as well as trying (unsuccessfully) to get more information. She could not have  been more friendly or helpful. In the end we bought t he final ticket that was not available last night on line. And there she us was, as we alighted at Giggleswick, waving us farewell (or was it telling the driver it was time to go?)

It would have been possible to stay on this train to a later stop where it connected with the next train we wanted but that would have given us a long wait at an isolated station. Instead we opted to walk a mile across to Settle station where at least there were things to see and do whilst waiting. We had our first views of the Yorkshire moorlands.

At one point along the way we passed a memorial to a Thomas Brayshaw (1854 - 1931) from Settle. he was a solicitor but gained this memorial because of his extensive work on the local history.

Nearing the town we spotted this display - at the time we thought there must be a scarecrow competition but we later discovered is was around the theme of flower pots. The U3A decided that they would combine both ideas!

Eventually we reached the entrance to the station. Alongside was the former large water tower. In the days of steam, water - along with coal - was an important commodity.

A train, in the opposite direction from Ribblehead, was due and its platform was remarkably busy.

At some stage in its past, the line was simplified from 20 to 10 stations and a similar reduction in the number of signal boxes. Most still retain the traditional mechanical semaphore signals. The box at Settle was redundant and for a long time it was left simply abandoned. Eventually a group of volunteers rescued it, which also entailed moving it about 150 metres - with great care as it had become somewhat fragile. Today's volunteers use it to demonstrate how the system worked with levers, bells and inventive mechanisms, to keep trains safe and prevented from running in to each other.

In the end we had too little time left to look at the centre of Settle, but crossed the bridge to wait for the train to Ribblehead, a short ride.

After arriving, we immediately set off down the road and later a track to take a look at the famous viaduct. The Station Master's House was bought by the conservation trust associated with the line, along with one or two others, and converted to be used as holiday accommodation.

The view here shows  not only the road down to the Station Inn but also, just to its right, the track that leads down to the viaduct.

We could also see the main parking spot beside the road which was especially busy. Perhaps as many as 80 cars at a time. The popularity is sufficiently guaranteed that there was at least one catering van!

As we started along the track an excursion train - alas hauled by two old diesel locos - came across the viaduct. A notice at Settle said that it was expected but gave no time.

And now a few images of the structure itself - sorry, but we were not skilled enough to get a really good shot of the whole viaduct but the others will perhaps give a sense of the scale. It is not perhaps the largest viaduct we have seen but its impact is very much heightened by its place in its physical context. There is no doubting the sheer engineering achievement as well as the commercial determination.  (In fact the line was only built in its hostile environment because the Midland Railway, one of the largest, lost out to two competitors for the better east and west coast lines)

At the bottom we found a stone seat underneath the central arch where we could sit and eat our packed lunch. The popularity of the place meant that we were never alone on the track - it was almost congested at times (well, almost!)

After walking back up to the station we had time for a pot of tea and a couple pof cakes from the heritage centre tea room - as well as a friendly chat with the two volunteers on duty today.

We crossed over the line to the same platform where we arrived as our schedule now took us along the rest of the Settle to Carlisle line. The station here has had a chequered history and closed at times before it was restored to two platforms but by then they had - unusually - to be offset from each other.

The ride from here to the end was about an hour and a half and initially there were more panoramic views but, in reality, we had already seen the better part of the line!

Coming into Carlisle we were apprehensive. From online updates we knew that the train we planned to catch had not even set off from Glasgow but that there was another, earlier,  possibility about 20 minutes later. However, we were a couple of minutes early arriving and had already discovered that the departures were from a platform alongside our arrival. A train was waiting there! A quick check and saw that it was dues to call at Lancaster, as we needed so we hopped aboard. We then discovered that we ought not to have caught this train but for the fact that it was over ten minutes late! (When the other train finally left Glasgow it was over 40 minutes late with no explanation)

As we journeyed down to Lancaster we passed through Carnforth but fast trains do not call here. The main plan is to see Lancaster as a hub from which passengers can catch a 'local' train back up to Carnforth, only about 10 minutes. We also found that an earlier train, with a good 10 minutes transfer time was due to arrive which we successfully caught as it was exactly on time. And who runs that train: Norther, Who runs the trains on the main line - Avanti. Seems to us that the next head of that company will have some work to do.

After all our concerns and machinations with Plan B's, we ended up arriving back into Carnforth the better part of an hour earlier than expected, with no time to waste in Lancaster. Most of our concern had been about batteries - our one enduring daily issue! We did 'push the envelope' and run the engine for an hour from 8 am before we set out, and turned off the freezer, the biggest consumer, but if we ended up much after our planned return around 6 pm then we would have issue with a depleted power supply. Not only had our small solar system almost kept pace with demand on what was a dull day, but also the freezer contents were still very solid.

Carnforth

Today's Canal - Lancaster

We began the day with a short 3 and half mile hop up to Carnforth.

Just after leaving we passed the spot which was previously a visitor mooring and we just managed to capture a brief glimpse of the distant view.

A little further and we passed this example of the high culture of the location!

Oh - and they seem to be having a party as well . . .

A few more places offered great vies of the distant hills - but as soon as we glimpsed then they were gone again.

A rare swing bridge on this canal. All it does is provide the entrance drive to a couple of houses on the opposite side. Not even locked. With a 3 weight limit we wondered how they manage when moving house!

Through Bolton-le-Sands, the towpath edge to the canal is lined with this unusual construction. At least it makes clear why boats cannot get close to the edge. In a couple of places, pontoons were installed for a now defunct water bus. However, each was occupied by a couple of boats that seem to have taken root.

Just a rural scene.

We arrived into Carnforth where our maps indicate three stretches of official visitor moorings, of varying maximum stay. Although there were several boats already moored, we pulled into a space at the start, Needless to say, we could not get close to land. Later a boat in front left. The water was very clear and we inspected the depth. It seemed a little better than where we were so we re-adjusted our position so that we could at least get on and off at the bow without the need for the gangplank.

In the afternoon we took a bus into Morecombe. We did not really know what to expect and we alighted on the far side at the Promenade,

We found the Stone Jetty, built in 1853 for a couple of ferries. In 1995 it was extensively renovated as a tourist facility.

The walking surface has a number of designs worked into it - the first was a maze which Mike found his way into and out of even then he was distraught when Christine told other onlookers that he had cheated by stepping over one of the lines (not true!)

The next had a number of bird related jokes. Trust us - this was the best! others were even more gruesome.

Over the edge hands a more recent installation, part of a nationwide project. It seems that it is designed to ring the bell when the tide comes in.

After a cup of tea from the cafe at the end of the jetty we started to walk back and north along the promenade. Part way we managed to find the famous memorial to Eric Morecambe.

Another installation names all of the high points on the skyline. However, it does depend on being able to recognise the shapes - today was rather hazy.

We arrived at the bus stop where we planned to pick up the service back to Carnforth with about 15 minutes to spare so we sat in the pleasant warm sunshine and looked out across the bay.

During the ride we spotted the Venus and Cupid statue. We did at one stage contemplate walking along the coast from Hest Bank to Morecambe and to take in this feature. Somewhat glad we did not bother!

We opted for fish and chips this evening from a shop close to the moorings. They proved excellent and great value.

3.6 Miles - 0 Locks

Hest Bank

Today's Canal - Lancaster

A photo to show how far out we moored last night. No matter - we left before anyone else came along. 

And it was another bright sunny morning. Only one cloudy patch later on but with a gentle breeze it was again great cruising weather, so long as no locks.

We have seen a number of milestones in a new design with the dates 1810 - 2010. They look remarkably like gravestones! Looking at photos from 2013, it seems as if they have been erected since that visit here.

Just after Bridge 81 we met Abraham, sporting his special NHS branded helmet. He looked quite happy but did not say very much.

Bridge 83 is a bit more ornate than the standard Lancaster design - we shall see this idea again when we come to the Lune Aqueduct.

Milestone 8, just before Glasson Junction, looks very much the same as in 2013 and is the older design. Stylish but the plaques seemed sadly rather too attractive to light fingered visitors.

The entrance to the top of the Glasson Arm and a sight no boater wants to see: Canal Closed. It closed a couple of weeks ago as CaRT were having difficulty in maintaining water in the main canal as well as the pounds between the locks. It opened for a few days over the Bank Holiday weekend, but closed again, indefinitely,  after Monday. Although the level in the main canal is down perhaps 150 - 200 mm is is at least navigable, even if we keep on scraping the bottom!

 

Galgate Marina is now operated by Aquavista and seems to have a self serve diesel pump, even if it is probably of the type that has a fixed VAT split.

Deep Cutting Bridge 94 now carries the A588 road over the canal but it also marks almost the end of  a long series of quite deep cuttings - not quite as substantial as the Shroppie but very reminiscent. It is at times hard to realise the effort that went into creating the canal in this way as all the spare soil had to be shifted by manually with little more than a shovel and wheelbarrow. The flat section at the top of the arch is actually a sideways extension to the bridge, using steel sections, to accommodate modern road traffic.

Coming into Lancaster itself the first few houses are quite substantial and a couple of their own boathouse. Wonder if they have to have an Access Agreement with CaRT? Or is it just an End of Garden mooring? (Sorry about the sun getting in on the act)

We paused in the centre of Lancaster to use the sani station (just to the right of this footbridge), whilst making a decision about whether to moor here on the opposite side and walk to the shops.

In the end we opted to carry one with possibly a stop on the return trip. The next bridge just shows the spire of the Catholic Lancaster Cathedral.

This substantial, slightly late, brood of 'ugly ducklings' were all having a good scratch at their plumage which was about to turn. Coming-of-age is never easy.

With some difficulty we moored up just before the Lune Aqueduct in order to have  our lunch and then take a closer look at this amazing piece of engineering and architecture. Rennie strongly believed that such structures should not only work well but also enhance to environment into which they have to fit. Alas it was also over two and a half times over budget and the main reason that the planned crossing of the Ribble never happened. An information board also said that this was an early example of the use of a steam engine to pump water out pf the cofferdams around the footings.

This bridge carries the extension of the A683 into Heysham and links with the M6 to the east. It was not here in 2013.

We carried on to Hest Bank where we hoped to be able to moor where Christine and Andrew stopped overnight with a decent view of the bay. Alas, since then the best stretch has been converted to long term Leisure Moorings with the visitor moorings relegated to a short distance away but in amongst trees with no view! We can but speculate about the reasons for this, especially as the take up of the moorings - in view of the local houses - has not been extensive. We plan to walk down to the water front in the morning.

11.9 Miles - 0 Locks