Birches Head

Today's Canals - Trent and Mersey, Caldon

Before we set off, Mike walked into Kidsgrove. In the past we have only called at Tesco and not the town centre shops. As well as a newspaper, he was in search of some more paintbrushes, not something that Tesco stock. He was somewhat underwhelmed by the shops that he found. The only food shops seemed to be several butchers, a number of small scale discount shops, specialists like toy balloons, games and tattooists - and Home Bargains! There were a couple of newsagents but the first that Mike called at did not accept subscription tokens so no sale! At least the other one did - he really did not want to have to make his way back to Tesco again. A strange discount shop - that seemed to have all sorts of things piled high, randomly and in every nook and cranny - did have some brushes but at 99p each they will hardly be lasting very long, we suspect.

Back at the boat we made ready to set off, with just the top Red Bull lock to complete before the entrance to Harecastle Tunnel.

When we arrived at the waiting area, the tunnel keeper told us that a boat had just entered from the other end and seemed to be rather slow. He warned that it might be 45 minutes before we could enter - which proved correct. At least Mike could look at an urgent email that needed a careful reply.

It was just before half past eleven when we were allowed to proceed with another boat following on a careful distance behind. Mike was particularly disappointed: after having managed two thirds of the distance keeping well clear of the sides, he momentarily lost concentration, thinking about taking a photo - and drifted to the side. But only the once, you understand.

When we emerged, just over half an hour later, it was raining. Gentle drizzle but persistent and not in line with the forecast which had promised us that it would be dry from noon onwards.

This inflow seems to be doing a good job at keeping the summit level topped up, although as we saw later, plenty feeds down from the Caldon as well.

We passed the usually popular moorings at Westport Lake - there were only four boats today, the last had a sign to indicate that it is owned by one of the Waterways Chaplains.

We saw a number of the 47 remaining bottle kilns - at its height, the pottery industry had over 4000 kilns in Stoke on Trent. They were individually designed and constructed to a shape that was each designer's 'great idea', all different.

We had thought of mooring at Etruria, before the service block, for lunch but just a little earlier Mike spotted a good row of rings with a decent bank edge so pulled in, just alongside the huge water slides of Waterworld.

After lunch we moved down to to Etruria Junction where we made use of the service block. Just before the junction we saw Rosie, from Scholar Green - we think we recall seeing her at 'Teapot Hall' when we came by earlier in the year.

Opposite the service block is an elegant statue to James Brindley, the famous canal pioneer.

Sadly, the Etruria Industrial Museum never seems to be open when we pass by. This impressive Goodwin Ball Mill stands alongside. It was manufactured in Germany in 1907 and installed in a mill in Hanley, not far away. It was used to grind materials - the raw stuff was mixed with water and hard balls (such as flint or ceramic) which, as the drum rotated, gradually reduced it to a fine powder suspended in the water.

Next came the two lock staircase at the start of the Caldon Canal. Unusually, it was built with the upper chamber rather larger than the lower one. The extra water discharges over a side weir. This means that when descending it is not necessary to empty the lower lock before the upper one - which is what usually has to be done in a staircase.

Shortly after came Planet Lock, compared with all the locks we have passed through in the last few days, this one is remarkably shallow.

Gradually the rain eased off and eventually we saw spells of blue sky but drizzle was never far away. We were becoming aware of a large plume of black smoke in the distance and wondered where it was.

Since we were here three years ago, it seems that several places have been fitted with useful looking mooring rings, several in use. In the past the run from Planet Lock through Hanley Park to the edge of the city was not recommended for mooring so perhaps things are on the up.

This splendid remaining industrial building is inscribed Johnson Brothers (Hanley) Limited Sanitary Works Erected 1896. Three of the brothers built this factory, along with several others nearby, to produce their range of durable earthenware which became very popular as it was both inexpensive and long lasting. The fourth brother moved to New York around 1896 and successfully marketed the products for the American customers.

Ivy House Lift Bridge is mechanised and the road over it is fairly busy but all of the cars that we held up came from the same direction.

We were now heading out of the main urban sprawl and into green lined canal. We were heading for a spot we found last time, just after a disused railway bridge. The black smoke was now alarmingly close and then a passing cyclist warned us not to go any further as there was a boat on fire, blocking the canal, not far ahead, Fortunately we were alongside a good mooring bank.

Whilst Mike made a start on preparing the meal for later, Christine opted to take a look along with the camera.

She found that it was a plastic cruiser that was by now almost completely destroyed and the fire service were in attendance - they had taken some time to reach the incident as they has gone to the next road bridge, confused with the old railway bridge. They were pulling the boat up to that road bridge where they would have resources to douse it properly. Al.though it looked as if the fire had burnt itself out, suddenly as they were spraying it with water, it burst into flames yet again.

It seems as if the boat had been empty at the time and at that stage no-one could identify who was the owner. sadly it seems that it may have been someone's home - hopefully the relevant agencies will be in touch with appropriate support. The Fire Incident Manager told Christine that he anticipated that we would be able to pass through by tomorrow morning.

9.1 Miles - 4 Locks

Hardingswood

Today's Canal - Trent and Mersey

The day began very grey and, apart from a brief brighter spell around lunch time, remained that way until the arrival of rain! We also needed extra layers of clothing today.

Late last night we spotted a strange illuminated circular cartoon image on the opposite side of the canal from our mooring. It was too dark to work out what it was but in the daylight we could see it on the front of this bungalow. We have no idea what it is nor why it is displayed!

Mike did a little bit more maintenance work but neither of us was inclined to an early start and it was well after 10 before we cast off - our mooring was in the distance beyond the first bridge we passed but it does show just how grey the morning was.

Just after Bridge 139 is a small CaRT maintenance depot, largely used to store specialist materials for repairing locks and other works. A work pan was being pumped out - ready to receive some new lock gates to be transported to the site of an upcoming stoppage we were told.

As we passed over Snapes Aqueduct we passed a coffee shop on water - not really looking for customers at this stage, however.

After 20 minutes we arrived at the bottom of the Lawton Locks - we could see from a distance that work was under way.

Up close we could see that the top gate of the right hand lock had been replaced. A 'team meeting' was in progress, no doubt plotting the next moves. As we came up the lock, the team started to lift out the stop planks above the lock but were taking it slowly so that they could check that the gate was fitting properly once under pressure. They also explained that one bottom paddle at the next lock (and above it later appeared) was locked off to prevent sudden rushes of water into the work area. The short pound was also being kept quite low.

Between the third and fourth locks there is a winding hole. This is a bit unusual in the middle of a flight -today there is no obvious reason for it, who would want to come down several locks just to turn around and go back up? Later, we looked at old OS maps and there was once a smithy alongside the winding hole. Things that look unusual often have an interesting explanation.

The first of the Church Locks, two, once doubled, looks as if it has two working sets of gates but the one to the left has been like this and non-functioning for some years now.

We continued up to Red Bull Wharf where we planned to use the services. (At the last two locks there was a couple of lock keepers to assist, We must say that they went out of their way to be helpful but clearly followed the guidelines to ensure that they knew what we wanted them to do and when) By the time we had finished with the emptying and filling, lunch was calling - second day for the first of Christine's autumnal soups. So we pulled back a boat length to the adjacent visitor moorings, surprisingly completely empty.

Afterwards, Mike finished off today's window stint and also effected a small repair to one of the galley window blinds where one of the guide wires had come adrift. Not quite as easy as it might have been and required rather more dismantling than one might imagine.

Mid afternoon we set off once more, with just a couple more locks to the moorings below the top lock at Hardingswood. We found a spot with possible tv reception in case we ended up here for the night. The initial reason for the stop was to walk the short distance to Tesco where we stocked up once more. We saw nb Harnser moored even closer to the bridge but no-one seemed in and we planned to say hello on our way back. As we started out we saw a couple carrying their own shopping and it turned out that they were Brian and Diana - surprisingly we did not recognise them from the tiny photos their blog!

We had not expected to see them - yesterday's blog put them on the Macc and what puzzled us was that they were pointing uphill. All was explained when we read their blog a short time before writing this one!

When we emerged from Tesco we discovered that it had started to rain, not heavy but persistent. As a result, when we arrived back at the boat neither of us was at all interested in going up just one lock - we would probably be too late for Harecastle Tunnel today in any event. And we did get a tv signal which was a little surprising with all the surrounding trees. We were fortunate that the gap was in just the right direction!

2.7 Miles - 11 Locks

Rode Heath

Today's Canal - Trent and Mersey

A complete change in the weather - it was not a surprise as yesterday's forecast held out the hope of a bright sunny day, all day even though it would be markedly cooler.

As a result we were off in good time, pushing away from our overnight mooring not long after nine o'clock.

Just after Elton Moss bridge used to be the base for the eponymous well known narrowboat builders. They outgrew this site and are now to be found at Middlewich. A large modern house has been built at one end of the site and still advertises the company.

The sun was now reflecting brightly off the underside of leaves - making them look especially impressive!

Just before Wheelock - where the village is expending rapidly with extensive new housing - we were a little puzzled by this bridge as it has a very much closed off look at one end. Looking at the maps and aerial photos it appears to have been built as the service road entrance to a large water treatment works. However, we could not see any alternative so if not over here, where? Since this original road will shortly run through the new housing estate, no doubt there will be pressure for large heavy vehicles to go another way. (There is one to be seen on the Google view)

We pulled onto the wharf at Wheelock so that Mike could do a full service whilst Christine popped around the corner to the village shop for milk and a paper.

By now the sky was almost cloudless and there were some wonderful vies, with just a hint that autumn is on its way.

The Cheshire Locks comprise 31 locks that lift the canal from the Cheshire Plain to the northern end of the Harecastle Tunnel, start back in Middlewich. The close together locks from Wheelock to the summit are often called Heartbreak Hill and certainly involve plenty of work! There are few breaks to take breath. Whilst most of the locks were at one stage doubled to increase the capacity for traffic, most now only have one operational - as here right  at the start.

After a few locks we passed a work boat on its way down - there was another a little later.

At Malkins Bank, the side arm was emptier than when we pictured it in 2015 when there was no spare room at all. This is the only evidence left visible from the canal of the very large brine pumping works that once occupied the land which is now a golf course. The company here had set out to produce ammonia soda but were eclipsed by Brunner Mond who built up the huge plant at Winningtpn, near Anderton, by licensing a more succesful process from Belgium.

We passed under the M6 and managed to take a photo just as transporter was just about to cross, but partly hidden by trees. As a result, if you look closely, it seems as if there are cars flying over just a few metres above ground!

Not only are some of the paired locks now left with just one operational, others have had one side filled in altogether, even if it is possible to see where the other one once was.

This boat is covered in solar panels, some large, some small. Just how much electricity can they generate? They should be about as self sufficient as it can be - perhaps they are aiming to be electric powered! Or are they one of the small number of adventurers who are giving it a go.

Other locks have no sign left where the second lock was.

But the two Pierpoint Lock probably never were doubled. Why?

Between the trees we had our first glimpse this trip of Mow Cop, a feature that can be seen over a substantial area, both here on the Trent and Mersey and also on the Macclesfield Canal.

At Thurlwood, the upper lock once had an experiment - a steel lock that was intended to be able to be adapted in the event of subsidence - a little north from here this was a particular problem as a consequence of the salt extraction. on our first canal trip on 1967 we passed through the steel lock -somewhere we have a 35mm slide (remember them?) showing it. See here for details. Built in 1958, it was finally removed in 1988. Today the lock site itself shows no reminder and the only real evidence is the second bridge below the locks.

Just above the lock we pulled onto the Rode Heath moorings for the night, giving Mike a short while to do a bit more to the wood window surrounds and other parts that are in need of some TLC.

6.4 Miles - 14 Locks

Sandbach

Today's Canals - Middlewich Branch, Trent and Mersey

Overnight it had been very wet - flooding in many parts of the country including our home town - but soon after we arose it stopped and we had no more rain all day, despite a showery forecast. wed had a few damp spells and some heavy showers were not far away.

After the usual round of servicing we unplugged our hookup from the mains and eased out from our mooring. Onto the main canal we turned right towards Middlewich. A level stretch, there were no locks for the next two hours.

Just before the first bridge one of the many land drains was gushing out water into the canal. Whilst the many similar drains do quite a bit to keep the canal topped up, they do make modelling the system all that much harder.

On the other side of the bridge is a sign to the Badger Inn in Church Minshull, indicating that it is 700m away along a narrow track. Strangely, the main road bridge has a similar sign, also claiming to be 700m away. According to Google the first should be about 1100m whilst the second is around 800m! Hopefully anyone making the trek finds it worth the effort!

The sun did make several valiant efforts to break through the overcast cloud cover.

Alongside a small wooded area, marked on the map as Small Rookery, is this odd hedge which appears to have been well tended. However we can find no reason for it.

There is one point on the Middlewich where it is possible to have a brief glimpse of the Weaver and Top Flash near Winsford. The river was not only very full but also fast flowing whilst the flash seemed unusually full.

Just after passing under the main railway line we could see across a field this large farm. We think that the house is Stanthorne Park and the main building the Dairy House Mews. Not yet found out much about it but the house looks rather splendid and on Google aerial view the Dairy House forms three sides of a square, surrounding a formal courtyard.

Preparations for November the Fifth?

At the canal end of a house garden as we approached Middlewich we spotted this tiny structure. No Fishing?

For a short period this blue sky suddenly appeared.

Before the next lock we pulled onto a mooring so that Christine could pop to the shops for a paper and one or two other items whilst Mike continued with work on the internal window frames. They are gradually looking a bit smarter - we have to hope that it will last for a while! When she returned it was definitely time for lunch followed by a little more painting.

It was after 2.30 before we set off again, immediately into Wardle Lock, after which we turned sharp right to travel southwards on the Trent and Mersey.

A very busy main road follows the canal for some distance but from here to thew edge of town the buildings are comparatively older. This property looks as if it was once of some significance although we could not quite make out the inscription at the top, but it looks as if it once had a mews entrance. It is now three houses. The old maps give no clue.

A little further is Kinderton Arms - still little nearer to being turned into something useful and not much changed from when we were last here three years ago.

Just above Rumps Lock is the British Salt works - now part of the giant Tata group. Both table salt and industrial products based on salt are made here.

We were amused to spot a version of the hare and tortoise. The truck had to keep behind the fork lift until the other side of the site!

Just before the two Booth Lane locks is this factory. At first we thought that it is a gas fired power station but the sign is Brenntag, a chemical company but it does not list this location on its web site.

A large housing development by the Booth Lane Locks is called Albion Lock. It was just being started last time we passed here. Whilst this large building under construction (the houses now look to be complete) also calls itself Albion lock, it does not feature on the Taylor Wimpey brochure.

Just below Crows Nest Lock is this large house, the former Moston Mill - also known as Sandbach Corn Mill, dating from the late 19C. Look closely at the opening just left of centre. It is on the first floor and looks to be a door that opens outward - over a ten foot drop into open air! Hopefully it has a good lock on it.

We came up through the lock, hoping for a fairly immediate mooring spot. Alas, there was a long line of permanent moorings to pass first. Near the start we spotted this former ice breaker. Although listed by the Historic Narrow Boat Club, it gives not construction date. Shortly after passing the end of the moorings we found a mooring - a bit shallow but close enough to the towpath.

9.9 Miles - 7 Locks