Our aim today was to get as far as March and, hopefully, find an overnight stop on the Town Mooring. We have had a very kind offer to transport Mike from March to Buckden so that he can collect the car. We have also agreed with the marina where we have booked the boat in for about ten days whilst we make another trip back home that we can arrive tomorrow mid morning for the pick up.
Today we have a simple run along the Link Route with just one lock to pass through. When we awoke it was already getting bright outside with the sun low in the sky illuminating the nearby church perhaps more interestingly than the floodlighting they had one last night.
As we were getting ready to leave, Christine persuaded Mike to fill the water tank again - it was still 75% full but she might well want to do some laundry tomorrow during the car shuffle. We had moored last night that the far end, too far from the water point at the near end (in the photo). Mike decided to pull the boat along rather than turn on the engine for such a short distance (why?) Not the fastest tap but it took only a short time to be overflowing.
Upwell is a remarkably long ribbon development with little other than the water-facing buildings spread out for little short of two miles along the Middle Level, here formerly the old route of the Great Ouse (but diverted long before most of these properties developed and as part of the drainage ambitions for the Fens without which the wealth of the area would not have come about) Many of the houses that we could see as we set off are from the 18th and 19th centuries or just into the 20th. A lot are Listed at some grade. Each is very individual and we tried to spot some where we could possibly find a little about its past. Unlike much of the mid 20C development patterns, these properties have huge mansions cheek by jowl with more basic homes for workers and and families. Let's look at a few.
Almost opposite our mooring is White Lion House (next to the village butcher's shop) As the name suggests this was once a pub, built in the 17th C with later adaptations. It must have been converted to a private residence some time ago as it is not described as a PH on the OS map at the start of 20C.
The front of this house has a strange feature for which we have not found an explanation: why is the front door blocked up and where is it now?
Lee House is probably from the turn of the 19/20 centuries and has six bedrooms. It is said to be the most expensive house in its postcode, currently valued at over £800K.
74 Crescent House also has 6 bedrooms and is probably slightly older. It is interesting to wonder what sort of family might have occupied either of these properties a century ago in very different social situations from today and how they acquired the wealth to buy them. It is a little surprising that both seem still to be single dwellings and not converted or subdivided.
Not far along is this pair of semis, numbers 77 and 78, Bramley Cottages, which are more modest but perhaps for the emerging 'middle class' as they are rather more substantial than simple worker cottages. Today they are each ranked about 10th most valuable in the village! Next door is the more substantial Bramley House. What caught our eye, however, are the two apparently blocked up window openings. The buildings are probably not old enough to have been subject to Window Tax, repealed in 1851. Also, they are much smaller than the other windows so were they just ornamental, perhaps?
These are just a few of the many properties, each with its own history and stories to tell. (No wonder David Olusoga's Houses Through Time are so fascinating) and we haven't included either the big estate house set a little back from Town Street or any of the smallest dwellings- many of which have been replaced by mid 20C (ie boring!) 'upgrades'.
We arrived at Marchmont Priory Lock preparing to operate it ourselves. When we passed here in mid July we had the assistance of the new occupier of the lock cottage who moved in early this year. However we were delighted that he popped out of his painting shed and had the gates open before we arrived. Mike took the opportunity of no other boat waiting to use the lock to check the weed hatch. As it happened, there was not much entangled save for a small amount of fishing line. Christine had a good chat with both the informal lock keeper and his wife - he maintains the traditions of canal Roses and Castles whilst she is an avid gardener (it shows!) No wonder it took over half an hour to transit a lock already set in our favour. We also failed to take any photos until we were well on our way.
Before long we were at Low Corner (where new Popham's Eau connects with the Old River Ouse - a 'failed' attempt at Fenland drainage) and the start of a huge wind farm. It took us around half an hour to pass from Low Cornmer to Reed Fen End, the extent of the wind farm.
It was then a pleasant, yet isolated, cruise along the level Fen waterway. Eventually we reached the railway line that marks the eastern edge of the town of March.
Most of the houses that abut the waterway have some form of mooring and plenty have boats. Alas a few seem to be abandoned or forgotten but most properties seem to enjoy their outlook. A number are for sale including this one with a couple of summerhouses and other facilities to enable warm summer evenings to be properly enjoyed. Alas, you cannot buy just these as they go with a modern house on the market for a mere snip at £510K! The estate agent emphasises that "this home is perfect for someone wanting to enjoy the riverside with 75ft (approx.) landing stage plus substantial home with two garages, double carport and wrap around garden! Accommodation comprises lounge plus dining room, refitted kitchen/breakfast room, utility and WC, garden room plus conservatory, four bedrooms with ensuite and family bathroom!"
Around the corner we arrived at the Town Mooring with just one boat already there. They moor elsewhere on the Middle Level and left to return there mid afternoon. We were joined later by another boat but still plenty of space for any more arrivals.
Later in the afternoon Christine went into town to the nearby Sainsbury store for just a few items and a charity show for a new top to go with the new trousers from Ely. Meanwhile Mike dived into numerous rabbit holes whilst researching the history of Upwell and catching up on progress at the Whitchurch Breach repair site.
7.7 Miles - 1 Lock
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