Great Barford

Today's Navigation : River Great Ouse

Our need to buy fuel remains a pressing issue but there is little we can do about it today. We have been cruising at a conservative engine revs and also we do not need to use the engine when moored up just to charge the batteries. A couple of hours cruising is usually enough to reach 100% which will then last until next morning. Of course we are also only using the Webasto heater for water and not heating.

Before leaving, Mike found the dipstick which we used on Take Five in the days before fuel gauges became standard on canal boats. The immediate concern had been that the gauge might be overstating the amount left but, somewhat to our surprise, it is probably the other way and the depth (quantity of fuel) should get us to Hartford Marina which is the next place that we have established is currently able to supply us. Fingers still crossed, however.

Opposite our mooring is the Star Club rowing base and it was being well used today. Singles, doubles, fours and eights, all on the move.

At times there was almost a traffic jam as about eight boats attempted to turn around at the same place! (Six in the photo alone)

This eight was for ladies with a more mature disposition!

On The Embankment, on the opposite side from us, stands the County Court, an imposing if austere brick building. Designed in the Gothic Revival style it opened in 1881.

Next along is the Swan Hotel, built right at the end of the 18th century for the then Duke of Bedford, replacing an even older medieval coaching inn.

Some of  the coxless crews are better at pulling on their blades than keeping a lookout for what lies behind them. This crew only just spotted us before they ran into our stern! Their reaction seemed to suggest that they thought that we had no right to be there (despite having just come under the designated arch for boats at the Town Bridge!)

Bedford Castle Mound is still very prominent from the river but it is all that remains of a motte and bailey built for King Henry I right at the start of the 12thC, mainly to reinforce his position in various battles with his barons. After some extensions it featured in a famous Siege of 1224 after which Henry III ordered it to be substantially demolished. Partly restored under the Commonwealth it soon ceased to have a military significance and gradually succumbed to the commercial pressure for housing in the prosperous town centre.

Fortunately there was a lull in rowing when we manoeuvred into Bedford Lock. Unfortunately it had been emptied overnight so we had to tie up on the lock landing - just downstream - until it was ready for Mike to bring the boat in. Reversing back and then turning would have led to an 'interesting' engagement with the rowers had there been any around at that moment.

We failed to spot this item yesterday: a plaque says, "The last remaining lock winding wheel on the River Great Ouse before Bedford lock was electrified in 2012". The lock is even narrower than the next few (see Roxton Lock!)

The view below the lock shows how well kept the riverside has been in this town, unlike some others where its presence is either ignored or even resented. Recreationally it is well used, seemingly respected, and many folk take a close interest in a passing boat - good for recruiting help as the lower gates are still somewhat stiff especially in fully closing. The interlock with the guillotine control means that they have to leave no gap at all. Balance beams made short for the footbridge do not help!

We passed a number of GOBA moorings which are generally in pleasant rural locations. Unfortunately we were unable to make much use of them as they are mostly in need of attention to make it possible to moor a narrowboat.

The river was very busy in the time of water borne transport but the upper part gradually decayed until the start of the leisure market. Under various management structures, progress was steady until the last link to connect to Bedford, Castle Mill Lock was completely rebuilt and opened in 1978. It is now exceptionally deep and, in normal river conditions. with such a large freeboard over the upper level that narrowboats cabin roofs barely reach the lock side! Pity that the Milton Keynes to Bedford Link which was first surveyed and designed by John Rennie in 1812, has not progressed. Certainly, in today's leisure boating market, this would create an impressive circular route and bring innumerable visitors to the upper parts of the River Great Ouse, which is currently underused.

When we arrived a group of canoes was in the process of negotiating their way up. It is not a fast filling lock at best but they were rightly being cautious about how they opened the sluice. When the way was clear Christine brought our boat in and then a small cruiser managed to fit in behind. The view from the lower lock landing shows how impressive the whole scheme is.

We promised yesterday to show a photo of the length of the Castle Mill Viaduct from downstream. Well, as you can see, a large embankment at the water's edge left only a thin sliver to be seen from the boat!

This intriguing structure bears the name The Charles Collection. We are not sure if there will more but its website describes it as a 'secluded treehouse escape for up to seven guests'. Not sure how much it costs in season but in November it is £625 per night - it has better be as good as it says, but the sauna and hot tub is included!

The Danish Camp was certainly very busy today and many visitors were enjoying their bar drinks and lunches. With sunshine like today, what could be pleasanter.

Next came Willington Lock but with a three generation group of interested onlookers to assist we were able to work through in (for us) record time!

We wrote about the Old Mill Lock yesterday but this is a slightly clearer picture - still not the best and we missed the better angle for it! At just the right point it is possible from the river to see right through the former lock chamber.

On the run in to Great Barford and Bridge we encountered a proper armada of paddle boards. The grassy bank in front of the pub is described as the village green and it was being well used today. Some keen paddlers had even come from Watford (well, they do have family living nearby!) The activity has grown rapidly in the last few years but it has brought a whole new generation of younger people into using the waterways.

Our initial reason for mooring here was to fill up the water tank, a bit depleted after processing a load of washing this morning. However, once we had done that we decided that as this was actually the end of today's planned cruise, it was OK to put off going any further until the morrow! We moved forward two boat lengths to the same spot as two nights ago.

Late afternoon, Christine took a walk over the long weir bridge to the opposite side. Close to the upper lock landing she found an odd stone remnant. We will take a closer look when we set off tomorrow but have not found any mention of it anywhere, Perhaps it related to the old lock which, according to old OS maps, was locate there, just a little upstream of the new lock.

8.0 Miles - 4 Locks