Watford (Gap)

Today's Canals : Grand Union Main Line, Leicester Branch

Today was a generally grey but with some very brief sunny spells and no rain.

As our overnight mooring shows, there had been quite a bit of rain since we moored up yesterday but by the time we were out and about it had stopped.

We have photographed the former lock cottage alongside the Top Lock (just poking into the left of the photo) many times before but until not really noticed that the cottage behind., Based on its house numbering, this was also a canal company property at one time, perhaps for a lengthsman as well as the one for a lock keeper. Just before we set off, Christine noticed that one of the volunteer lock keepers hse had had a unfinished conversation with yesterday was just helping boats through the top lock so she went to have a bit more of a chat. It transpired that he was once taught about handling a canal boat by Jack Monk, one of the last Number Ones. We knew him when we moored our tiny Fiona alongside Bishop Meadow Lock in Loughborough in the late 1960s. We too found him very willing to pass on his experience and expertise.

We were off just after 9:15 and soon after arrived at the entrance to Braunston Tunnel. This is a two way tunnel - unless a wide beam boat is booked (they are restricted to an early morning slot!)

The entrance sign suggests a transit time of 37 minutes (nearly always noticeable optimistic, some more than others) so it was no surprise that we emerged at the southern end some 25 minutes after setting off. We met only one boat coming the other way which we both managed to negotiate without incident! The tunnel is fairly dry apart from just one drenching only 50m from the exit!

The tunnel approach from the south is a straight tree-lined section which is very pleasant.

Forty minutes later we arrived at Norton Junction where we had to make a very sharp turn left to face almost the same direction in which we had just come! We were  now entering the Leicester Section of the Grand Union. A former Toll House stands guard over the junction, catching boats in every direction to pay their dues.

Passing under the modern A5 road bridge we had one of the better sunny spells of the day.

The former pub, now South Asian Restaurant, by the Welton Station road bridge now features 'pod dining'. Their futuristic eating spaces (a development from former Covid measures?) cost £35 to book (on top of the costs of the meal!) Presumably they are a good source of income but, judging by some reviews, not everyone is convinced.

We were now fast approaching the noisy M1 our first glimpse is just a small field away from the canal.

And so we arrive at the bottom of the Watford flight of locks. Nearby is the famous Watford Gap Service station where in the early days of motorway driving, many folk came to see what the first of this new generation was like in 1959. It became for a while a place to spot famous rock and pop groups. Alas, it did not take too long before the glamour wore off and it was realised that this was just a way of charging high prices for very ordinary fare and most drivers will stay here only as long as it takes.

Christine went to book in with the lock keepers - woe betide any boater that tries to transit without so doing! The bottom two and the top lock are conventional single locks, albeit with short intervening pounds, but the middle four form a staircase and are all designed for narrow boats (ie max 7 ft beam) Boats cannot pass each other in the staircase and may also have difficulty in the short pounds. Hence the lock keepers operate a strict flow control trying to minimise the waiting times whilst also allowing as many boats through as possible. At busy times long queues can form. Whilst waiting our turn we managed to catch a small patch of blue sky in the background of the former bottom lock cottage.

We had to work through the first lock on our own but as as soon as we set off for the second lock we could see that a volunteer lock keeper was already opening the gates for us. He was able to make life a lot easier for us all the way to the top.

The staircase locks have side ponds to maintain a proper supply of water to each chamber as boats pass through. There are two paddles at each of the intermediate gates that connect the lock with its side pond. The red paddle must be opened first - "red before white and you'll be alright - white before red and you'll soon be dead" or at least in serious trouble with the lock keeper for wasting water and potentially flooding the towpath and lock surround.

At one time the locks were left for boater use when the keepers were not on duty but now they are locked up so boaters must make sure they arrive in good time or they will have qa night in the shadow and sound of the M1.

After completing the seven locks we stopped at the top for a 'full service'. Officially the toilets have now been closed in accordance with the new facilities policy (to avoid funding expensive features that are not really CaRT responsibilities, such as showers, toilets, laundry machines and dog bins) but there has been a delay in changing the door lock as the toilets are still needed for the volunteers!

Immediately after the locks we passed under the M1 which now gradually moves away to the west of the canal.

A couple of bridges later, just far enough for the road noise to diminish - it takes some distance for it to disappear altogether - we moored for lunch and the rest of the day.

5.9 Miles - 7 Locks