It was only a couple of days ago that we had 'a day off' - that is, not cruising. We do not have - overall - a pressing schedule although there are intermediate deadlines we have to keep, including Mike's quick trip back to the dentist on Friday coming. Unless so anything unexpected causes us a delay it should be possible to collect the car and use that, avoiding a complicated public transport journey. Alas, Devizes lost its rail connection a long time back. There is a plan to add a Parkway station as soon as possible but that will definitely not be coming before Friday! The regular bus route from Swindon is an hour and from Pewsey irregular and also about an hour.
After a slow start we walked into the town centre. We were moored alongside Workman Gardens where there is a very long line of visitor moorings beside the river. We were moored just beyond the two ANT Young Persons Activity Boats. Surely you can see us?
Oh, you missed it? Just in case, here is a closer view.
In Workman Gardens is this display. The information panel explains that in 1819, a Mr Stanton was on a whaling ship in the Arctic. On return he took possession of the jawbones of a Bowhead whale that they had caught and he gave it as a present to a friend, Dr Cooper of Evesham. He, no doubt, had always wanted such a gift but he did set it up in the garden of the Mansion House close to these gardens. Years later, Dr Cooper's grand daughter inherited them and promptly gave them to the Borough Council who erected them in Workman Gardens. Although considerable efforts have been made over the past century to preserve the arch, in 2012 but had become so brittle it was deemed unsafe in a public place. Hence they were moved to the grounds of Evesham Hotel (formerly the Mansion House) and replaced by this modern wooden and metal sculpture so that at least the story should not be forgotten.
We crossed Workman Bridge which connects the two former villages - Evesham and Bengeworth. Both are Anglo-Saxon in origin but became united for administrative purposes as long ago as 1605. The old medieval bridge with many small arches and by the nineteenth century was in poor conditions and an obstacle to navigation. The then mayor, Henry Workman, was instrumental in organising its replacement, the bridge we have today. It was the same person who also worked to develop the gardens that also bear his name, clearing up an eyesore of decaying warehouses on the canal bank.
From the bridge one of the two main shopping streets runs up a slight hill. We noticed that there seemed to be more charity shops than anything else and that there are very few 'brand' name stores left. Nevertheless, there were very few empty windows.
At the main junction with the other shopping street this old building, now a Nat West bank branch, is undergoing extensive restoration. (If they can keep a branch in Evesham, why could they not have managed that back in Wadebridge where for the past few years our nearest was in St Austell?)
We then explored the area that was once Evesham Abbey. At the height of its powers it was perhaps the third largest in the country but was almost entirely obliterated at the hands of Henry VIII's vandals in the Dissolution. The Abbey Church tower was left standing
Many years before that the monks had built two churches alongside the Abbey Church for the local residents - one for the rich and one for the poor!
One of these churches is now closed and the other is the parish church for the main town centre. At one point we could just about see all three in one photo.
Close by is the Almonry - now a small museum and visitor centre. After doing most of our shopping we returned to the boat for lunch.
We now realise that we did not show you earlier a proper picture of the bridge only the view from it. As you have been patient with us then here is a reward, full photo of the bridge taken from the Gardens.
Later in the afternoon Mike walked up the main street of Bengeworth, a long line of small shops on either side. Most were either eating places (both eat in and takeaway), hairdressers or food shops specializing in goods from European countries, but we will not detain yiou today ith any discussion about that - but perhaps tomorrow.
The church of St Peter stands at the main intersection and is visible for some distance with its huge steeple. As it was open, Mike took a look around inside - we were in any case planning to come here tomorrow morning.
It dates from 1870 when a decisions was taken to replace the medieval church nearby which was in poor condition. It was actually demolished with explosives! No doubt, as it was a controversial decision, they did not want the new church to have a continuing rival, looking continually backward.
In the 1920's,some of the memorial tablets from the old church were installed in a side chapel of St Peter's. The largest is to a John Deacle which came from the parish but went on to become a rich Alderman in London. According to a local newspaper article, there is not a lot known about him other than that he made his money as a draper. He also endowed a local school.
Mike found the rest of the shopping in Lidl, immediately opposite the church.
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